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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • pizza2pizza2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response to my post. I have had my car to the dealer three times already, but they have been unable to determine what is wrong. The last time they had it, they went through an entire checklist given to them by an engineer (consisting of checking/plugging/unplugging all kinds of electrical components). Since I've gotten the car back, I've not experienced the flashing/surging problem again (it had happened three times in the past). Now I'm noticing a power loss when the car is decelerating. It's a very noticeable feeling. When the car is slowing down as I'm approaching a light or stop sign, it doesn't decelerate smoothly. I'm going to have the service manager at my dealer drive my car for the weekend because there's no way he's not going to notice this problem. Not sure whether this is as a result of the things that were done last time the car was in. I'll certainly let you know if they find out anything as I've read all the posts regarding these problems and there are definitely other cars out there with the same issues.
  • ifranksifranks Member Posts: 5
    I have a Mazda 6 GT 2005 and have a noisy (sort of ticking noise) purge control solenoid that is only evident between 1000 and 2000 rpm. The noise begins after the engine has been on for about 10 minutes. This is particularly annoying when travelling slowly in traffic or slowly up inclines. According to the service dept at my Mazda dealer this is a problem with all Mazda 6 2005's. Has anyone else run into this problem.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    So I made a mistake and left the oil cap off the oil fill on the engine. Drove the car like that until I saw the smoke rising from under the hood a short moment later. So, now I have engine oil on the engine. I cleaned it off best I could with a rag, but see some places where it got on hoses and such. I know oil on hoses is bad, so I'm consdiering an engine steam cleaning. Anyone do this before? Anything to watchout for? Want to make sure I'm not causing any additional harm.
  • thminchewthminchew Member Posts: 1
    I have the Auto climate control in my 2006 Mazda 6S and yesterday was the first time since I bought it that I needed to run the heat. I set the temperature to 80 and the system directed air to the floor panel, but the A/C was still running. Should the A/C run with the heater on? If that's what it is supposed to do then that's fine, but I was wondering if the A/C should really run when it's 32 degrees outside. Anyone? Is this normal?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    The Auto Climate Control (ACC) works well, but you need to understand the system first.

    When you turn on the ACC to "auto", the "A/C" light will turn on. Does this mean that the A/C is actually running? No. It means that the A/C is, for lack of a better term, "armed", meaning the ACC can use it if it's needed.

    If you turn on the "auto" and turn off the A/C, both lights go out. The system is still in full auto mode, it just can't use the A/C.

    The other controls are similar: If you have it on "auto" and manually adjust the fan speed, direction, or A/C button, that specific component remains at your specific setting, but the ACC still controls the other functions automatically. An example: if you hit "auto" then turn the fan speed to the second setting, the fan will stay at the same speed all the time, but the ACC will still change the air direction and A/C use to reach and/or maintain the set temperature.

    One more thing: the "auto" light will only go on when the ACC is in FULL auto mode, and no controls have been manually changed.

    I hope this helps... :)
  • kbf59kbf59 Member Posts: 4
    :mad: HELP! You seem to understand this bizzare climate control. I bought my 2007 Mazda6 a month ago. It's been in the shop three times for the heat. They insist that it's working correctly but it can't be. I have to keep the temperature at 90 degrees to warm up the car. It never gets hot, just warm. Then if I turn it down to 89 cold air comes out. If I turn off the automatic climate control it's the same thing. It was 32 degrees outside tonight when I got in my car to drive home. I set the heat to 74 it blew out cold air! I couldn't get warm air until I turned it to 88. I am so frustrated. If I want the car to be 74 degrees, shouldn't I be able to turn the ACC to 74 and be done with it??? Also, the seat heaters turn off on their own. I can't get a straight answer out of the dealership if that's the way they are supposed to work.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    If I want the car to be 74 degrees, shouldn't I be able to turn the ACC to 74 and be done with it???

    Absolutely. If the car continues to blow out cold air after 5-10 minutes of warming up, then it sounds like there is something wrong with the ACC itself, either the heat or the temperature sensors. If your dealer isn't very helpful, I'd try another dealership, and show them the problem yourself.

    Also, the seat heaters turn off on their own.

    That's normal. They are on a timer to turn themselves off.
  • kbf59kbf59 Member Posts: 4
    OK, just to make sure before I take it to another dealership. You can set your temperature to 74 degrees when it's cold out and it will blow out warm air? And, if you set it to 90 degrees it will make your car very hot and you would have to turn it down? I'm also having trouble with the alignment. I have to keep pushing the steering wheel to the left or it drifts strongly to the right. They put it on the computer and it said it was fine. Then, the service guy took it for a drive with me at my suggestion and he agreed that it was pretty bad. I think I got a lemon. The dealership has had it more than me...
    Thanks so much for your help...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    If the alignment is okay but the car pulls, it could be a bad tire. Of course the service department should know this...

    The usual procedure is to try switching the front tires (left to right) to see if it then pulls the other way. If not, then they would try the same thing with rear tires.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    OK, just to make sure before I take it to another dealership. You can set your temperature to 74 degrees when it's cold out and it will blow out warm air? And, if you set it to 90 degrees it will make your car very hot and you would have to turn it down?

    Yes, and yes. :)
  • blv1blv1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Mazda 6 with 10,000 mi. I have been experiencing the exact same ticking and have had it in twice for the problem. First time, they heard nothing. Second time I took them out to demonstrate. They heard it and were happy to report it's just just a noise the car makes. Well it didn't make it when I bought it and now I'm supposed to accept that this refined V6 engine car will always have a tapping noise upon acceleration and on hills? I told them I am going to randomly drive Mazda 6's on there lot to see if any others make this noise. I'm alsofiling a complaint with Mazda.
  • ifranksifranks Member Posts: 5
    I complain each time I take it in for a sevice (3 times now). I had the service manager drive other Mazda 6 new cars on the lot. He said they all have the same problem but it was only on the Mazda 6 2005. I am surprised your 2006 also has the problem.
  • kbf59kbf59 Member Posts: 4
    Yep, just bought the same car a month ago but it's a 2007. I've had it in the dealership twice so far for pulling to the right. They hooked it up to the computer and the alignment was fine. Then they rotated the tires but it didn't help. They were going to call Mazda about it again. Just wondering if you ever figured it out?
  • miasmalmiasmal Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2006 Mazda6 5-dr S, and it uses 215-45R18 wheel/tires. I also have a set of 225-50R17 winter tires left over from my previous vehicle. I called up TireRack, where I bought them originally, and they told me that I couldn't use them because of the size difference. Just for grins I tried putting one tire on, and it seems to fit ok - aside from needing a hub ring to center it, it looks to be fine.

    Any advice? Should I just get a new set of winter tires with the "correct" size? And what should that size be - 215-50R17, 215-45R17, or even go down as low as 16" ?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Any advice? Should I just get a new set of winter tires with the "correct" size? And what should that size be - 215-50R17, 215-45R17, or even go down as low as 16" ?

    If the 225/50s fit the car without any rubbing issues, then by all means, save your $$$ and use them. The difference in odometer and speedometer calibration between the 18" and 17" sizes is 0.9%, well within the recommended 2% limit. Plus, many Mazda6 owners use 225/50-17s, as well as 225/45-17s.

    If you do go with 16", the stock size is 205/60-16 (which is what I use with 16" steelies for my winter tires).

    Tirerack is always VERY conservative with their sizing, but if they work for you, then save the $$$ and put it toward something else.
  • miasmalmiasmal Member Posts: 5
    Thanks ... Mazda's website says the tires used on the 6 are P215/50R17 and P215/45R18 (my stock now), so I'm pretty confident I should be able to use the 225 width. Just gotta make sure it spins freely before I drive it.

    I do need to get new lug nuts (longer kind), and new hub rings ... the lugs I can probably get locally, but where can I get the correct size hub rings for my wheel (which is why I called TireRack in the first place).
  • zzzoom6zzzoom6 Member Posts: 425
    let me first say I'm no tire expert. but do you know what the load rating is on these tires? I've heard that this is a bit of an issue that is pretty important to know for your safety. perhaps you've already checked this, but if not, see if you can find out for sure.
  • rickypaulrickypaul Member Posts: 24
    I have a new Black Onyx 6. Anyone else have a black one? how does it hold up to the carwash?
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    I have black onyx as well and PLEASE do not take the black beauty through an automatic wash. The dirt and debris from cars don't get completely washed off the automatic brushes and "soft" cloth of an automatic wash. Plus the soaps and waxes aren't the best for your paint. Hand wash is best with a mild auto soap with conditioners in it. Then be sure to wax it. Early on in my ownership of my 6 I took it through automatic car washes as well and the microscratches started to appear. I stopped, then hand washed from that point on applying wax as well and noticed a huge difference in the shine.
  • jafan43jafan43 Member Posts: 3
    Question: "Purge control solenoid"? Not sure who told you it was that. Assuming this is the same ticking we're talking about, I have the same ticking noise and it IS a normal condition of the engine. Check out www.mazda6tech.com. It's not a problem so much as a property or quirk of the engine. If it bothers you so much, insist that the service dept. also check the valve timing to ensure proper valve clearance/tolerances. That could also cause excessive ticking if something is out of wack there. The owner's manual tells you when those need to be inspected by the way. But if it's not that and as long as it's not interfering with the performance or function of the engine, you're going to have to live with it, turn the radio up or buy a new car.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    Finally asked the dealer to correct the non-functioning driver seat lumber support when I took the car in for its 1st oil change. They ordered, and have now replaced the knob on the seat, which (as I suspected might be the case), did absolutely nothing. Now they've ordered a new "seat frame." Don't know whether that's the whole assembly (with airbag, etc.) or just some piece that will be somehow replaced and then recovered with the existing upholstery. Either way, it's another inconvenient 50 mi. round trip to the dealer. Sigh . . . What was the result for the others of you that mentioned you had the same problem?
  • troyben1troyben1 Member Posts: 2
    Have '03 6i w/manual trans. The bearings in the shift linkage have gotten worn after 46,000 miles & make an annoying clicking sound, especially on the up-shifts from 2-3rd & 4-5th gears. Otherwise the trans is fine. Has anybody else experienced this? Able to get the dealer to fix? Previous vehicle was a 9-yr old Acura Integra (170K miles) that maintained a firm shift throughout its life, so I find this unacceptable.
  • geodoschgeodosch Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2006 Mazda6, and have also been having problems with my ACC. When the weather was warm it worked fine, but once the temperatures dropped into the 50's-60's, it started behaving strangely. For example, the cabin is already be at a comfortable temperature, and suddenly I'll get max heat blasting out the dashboard vents. Turning the temp control down a few degrees does nothing to stop it, until the setting gets to around 60 deg. The only way to keep from roasting is to manually direct the output to the floor vents. When it's colder out (35-50 deg.), the ACC directs lukewarm are to the floor, even after the engine is fully warmed-up and the cabin is cold.

    I was looking here to find out if others were having similar issues, or whether my ACC was simply defective. Since others are having similar problems, I'm hoping this isn't a case of a poorly designed system. I've had previous vehicles with ACC (GM, Nissan), and they were set-and-forget, always keeping the interior comfortable.

    I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the dealer look into this, so hopefully it's something they can fix, and they won't just tell me it seems to be working as intended.
  • geodoschgeodosch Member Posts: 5
    As I feared, the dealer called and said they didn't see the ACC acting-up, so they didn't look any further. :( They said they also contacted Mazda to see if there was a know issue, but were told there isn't.

    From the messages here it seems that I'm not the only one who has problems with the ACC. I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing issues with their ACC, in case this is a common issue, but either not enough people have complained about it, or maybe Mazda isn't admitting it.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    From the messages here it seems that I'm not the only one who has problems with the ACC. I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing issues with their ACC, in case this is a common issue, but either not enough people have complained about it, or maybe Mazda isn't admitting it.

    From what I've seen and heard (based on many other forums besides this one, and other 6 owners), the ACC is not as common of a problem as one might think. My ACC has worked well from day one, and many others have as well.

    Does it rule out any problem with yours? Absolutely not. I'd check with another dealer if the problem surfaces again, and if you need to, go as far as showing them yourself the issue that you have.
  • geodoschgeodosch Member Posts: 5
    My ACC has worked well from day one, and many others have as well.

    I'm glad that your ACC is working well. However, I'm trying to find users that are having a problem. I know I'm not completely alone, as [kbf59] also indicated that their system was acting-up. There may be others who have looked here for answers, but haven't posted before now.

    Showing the dealer is easier said than done with an intermittent problem. Murphy's Law means that it's not going to act-up in the five or ten minutes when the mechanic is there, so unless the dealer wants to have someone ride around with me for an afternoon, my next best bet was to see if others had an issue, and with any luck maybe find someone who was able to get it corrected. At very least, if others are having a similar problem, then it should be brought to Mazda's attention.
  • kbf59kbf59 Member Posts: 4
    I am definitely having problems but the opposite of you. I have to turn it up to 88 to get heat and it never really gets hot. I could set it at 90 and leave it there for hours and not get too warm. Below 85 I get cold air. I am bringing it into the dealership for my alignment problem tomorrow. I wanted to talk to them about the heat too but unfortunately it is going to be 65 degrees in Chicago at the end of November!!! Not a good day for it. I don't think Mazda will admit to anything. I've found lots of sites with lots of people whose cars pull to the right like mine. When the dealership called them they said that they don't know of any problems. I am so sick of this! I only have 1000 miles on it! I actually asked for a Mazda tech to be sent out to the dealership because I was told that I could do that. It doesn't look like it's going to happen...
  • geodoschgeodosch Member Posts: 5
    I am definitely having problems but the opposite of you. I have to turn it up to 88 to get heat and it never really gets hot

    I've also had the problem of not enough heat, though since it's been unseasonably warm here in NJ, I only experienced that a few times. When it's cold outside, at times I only get lukewarm air, even after the engine is fully warmed-up. I know the system can put out very hot air, since it has done so when I didn't want it. But since it doesn't always misbehave, it's not just something I can show to the dealer.

    In general I'm very happy with the car, but this is the second major issue I've had, and I've got less than 3600 miles on it. When I first got it, the NAV system wasn't working right-- the GPS didn't function (it ran only on dead-reckoning), and the voice command didn't work. It took 3 trips to the dealer to get it fixed, and the problem turned out to be that much of the wiring was never connected at the factory. :mad:

    I hope you are able to get your alignment problem resolved, and with any luck also the heater. Good Luck!
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    Does anyone out there have this problem like me....

    I have a 2003 Mazda6 i. It has the manual ac. Anyway, my problem has to do with the heat. When the car fully warms up, I can have the heat on. Only lukewarm air comes out, unless I am driving or revving the engine. Then the air will get hotter. When I stop at a light, the air will turn cooler. Then again will get hot again when i am moving. Is this a simple fix, or will I be spending major $$$ at the dealer? I am going to take it into the dealer for an oil change this Monday, so I plan to mention this other problem too.
  • bigjohngobigjohngo Member Posts: 5
    Has any one hear a noise from the engine when backing M6? I just bought my 2006 mazda6 yesterday and today when I was backing it into the parking lot, the engine's sound is so loud that even covered the music! I am going to take it to the dealer for checking up tomorrow.
  • christanchristan Member Posts: 10
    On the way home tonight, a two glass jugs of raw milk on the floor of the front seat of my 2206 Mazda 6 tipped over, and one of them shattered.

    I spent an hour using paper towels to mop up the milk from the front and rear floor covers, and from the floor itself, which was saturated in the front. There was some in the back seat floor area as well, which I also mopped up. I worked until I could no longer see milk coming up through the rug when I pushed on it with my hand.

    How much more work needs to be done after the floor rug, and floor mats, dry out? I'm thinking a professional cleaning is in order, but I've never had one done. My car has just 6,000 miles on it and is soon due for an oil change, which I planned to get, at the dealer, next week. Should I ask the dealer to also address the milk-in-the-carpet issue, or is preferable to take the car somewhere else (hopefully a little more affordable)?
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    I have a 2003 Mazda6 I. Every winter, my windows will freeze. Yesterday it was 24 degrees F, and three of my windows would not go down. The drivers side rear went down and up, but not the other three. Is this just a normal problem, or is there something wrong with the mechanisms? Last year we had a mild winter, so the windows worked. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Is this just normal for a cold winter? If the temp were above 30, Im sure the windows would work.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    My '04 wagon also experiences stuck windows due to freezing at times, although it doesn't occur frequently enough to be a big problem. It is most likely to happen if the car has ice/snow on it, sits in a heated garage or in the sun and thaws out but does not dry completely, then goes back out into freezing temperatures. Things get interesting when I go to the drive-up ATM or fast food window and have to open the door to stick my arm out where there is only a few inches of clearance!

    I've noticed is that my car has a tendency to get moisture or frost on the inside of the glass (mostly the windshield) in certain conditions, most often when it has been in cold and wet weather, then warming occurs while it is parked (especially if the sun is out). Nothing else inside the vehicle is ever wet, so I don't think there are any leaks but judging by the location of the heaviest condensation/frost on the windshield, I suspect the moisture is coming out of the defroster ducts. I've often wondered if this is what causes my windows to freeze up in the winter.

    My '00 626 experienced this as well, but not nearly as much. With both cars I have also observed that after being subjected to conditions similar to those described above, when the A/C is first used the air coming out of the vents has a very noticeable musty odor.

    My theory on what causes all this is that moisture is sitting someplace inside the vehicle after it has been icy/snowy/wet, then that moisture evaporates inside the HVAC system someplace and travels up through the ducts and into the passenger compartment. I'd guess that the moisture gets in through the outside vents just in front of the windshield, but I'm not sure. Water entering those seems to exit underneath the car when I wash it, but I wonder if a bit of it trickles into some place(s) it shouldn't at times.

    Anyone else have thoughts on this?
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    We haven't had that issue but if we do...any remedy?
  • jsmith28jsmith28 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 M6, approx. 2000 miles. I heard that noise last night as well as this morning. So far I have only heard it when backing out of my driveway but not when backing up from other places. My driveway has an inclination of about 10 or 15 degrees but I don't know if that's a factor. I'm calling the dealer tomorrow, I'll let you know what they say. Please keep me posted as well.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    In the 626 I tried to run the A/C periodically even when I didn't need it (I tend to not use A/C much anyway, even when it's hot out) and that helped keep the musty smell down. I also picked up a tip someplace to run the vent for a short time between using the defroster and parking the car, to give moisture in the A/C a chance to dry out using outside air.

    In the Mazda6, I think the problem was worsened (until I started looking for techniques to deal with it) by the fact that when the auto climate system is set to use only the floor vents, the A/C compressor runs and cannot be disabled, which is not the case in any other car I have owned. That little quirk has been discussed on one of these forums in the past. Even so, using the abovementioned techniques seems to help keep the symptoms from occurring as frequently as they used to.

    I feel that the design of the system has to get some of the responsibility here, because our Subaru is frequently driven straight into it's parking spot with the defroster or A/C running, and it never has moisture on the glass or a musty smell coming from it's vents.
  • ceyda79ceyda79 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 06 Mazda6i brand new in Nov 2006. I drove the car off the lot and right away my husband and i noticed a severe pulling to the right of the vehicle as we sped up. We tested it on different roads and the tugging was consistent. My car has been in the shop several (3+) times for this problem, as a matter of fact it was in the shop the 3rd day after i left with it. I've been going back and forth ever since, they changed the tires, did a balance, rotation, everything and it's still not fixed. Then, the belt started squeeking 3 mos after, they ordered a belt and recently changed it. My cruise control buttons stopped working and pieces of the steering wheel started falling out so they replaced the entire steering wheel. My drive seat constantly squeeks, drives me crazy they tell me that they hear nothing. When i release my foot from the brake i get this annoying clicking and tapping...which they claimed at first that they couldn't hear and then the 3rd visit i was told be a technician that it was a common problem with Mazda's. He also told me that if i told the desk, that he could risk losing his job - so i was also threatened. This is incredible. I told Mazda that i have a lemon attorney and that this is an opportunity for them to fix it by replacing the car or giving me my money and they said at first they will try to figure something out but i still haven't heard back so i am moving forward with the lemon law. Be aware of your rights as a consumer, visit your state lemon law website and take action as a consumer. The gov't protects you if you have made 3+ more visits and a problem still isn't resolved. I hate this car! I woudn't recommend a Mazda 6 to my worst enemy. I am sick of problems, why did i purchase a NEW CAR? Unbelieveable!
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    My car is fixed!!! There is a technical service bulletin out for Mazda 6s. It actually came out on October 12th but it took three trips to the dealership to make them think that they should look under their pile of papers and see if there was one. It's for pulling problems. Imagine that! Anyway, I brought it in and they replaced the two front control arms. It's not perfect but it's a million times better. It still drifts a bit to the right when the road is slanted to the right but I'll take it! You can just google TSB and you can look up the bulletin and take it to the dealership. Of course, if you want to try for the new car, maybe not....
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Glad to hear your car is fixed. If I were you, I think I might try a different dealership next time you need service.
  • jesscurtin70jesscurtin70 Member Posts: 3
    Not sure what you mean by "noise" but I have a loud squeal that happens when I'm backing and turning the wheel counterclockwise, coming from the front DS wheel. I took it to the dealer today, who informed me that I need my brake pads and rotors replaced all around. I was somewhat surprised, especially because I'm used to rear brakes lasting quite a bit longer (I have 32K miles on the car) and they are supposedly worse than the fronts. Anyway, I looked up TSB's and found this, which is somewhat contradictory to what the dealer said:
    TSB: Squeak/Moan Noise From Front Brakes
    Mine's a 2004 6s. They did fix a recall item, MSP10 which I guess has to do with a malfunction light. I declined the brake service right now.
  • christanchristan Member Posts: 10
    No responses to my post? I'm not surprised. Even the dealer, when presented with this problem, wouldn't offer to do anything to fix it. Why is this so hard?

    I'm hoping someone can pull up the rug and replace whatever mat is beneath the carpet.

    At the recommendation of the folks who deliver our milk, and who have spilled many gallons of the stuff over the year, I've put two applications of soap and water on the carpet. Today I added some enzymatic pet-odor stuff that we once used for to get a cat-pee smell out of the carpet in our condo.

    I'm willing to be patient a little while longer, since the cold weather is back, suppressing the smell somewhat. But I'm a little disappointed that no one here had any recommendations.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    the only sure-fire solution I can think of is to have a professional detailer pull up the entire carpet and clean everything, and as you say, if necessary, replace the underlayment material. I had this done with a flooded BMW and was quite satisfied with the result, but it cost a few hundred dollars.
  • christanchristan Member Posts: 10
    Thanks. The detailers don't seem particularly interested in going to the length of pulling up the carpet, but I found an auto uphosterer (sp?) who's willing to do it. Like you said, he told me the price would be $250-$300, because he has to pull the carpet, treat it, and let it dry for three days.

    I'm prepared to do it. My own efforts haven't had the success I'd hoped, and I find myself thinking about selling the 6-month-old 2006 model (stupid idea!), or, in my weaker moments, fantasizing that someone might run into me on the highway and total the vehicle, so I can get a replacement.

    Assuming I'm still alive, that is. :)

    What's $300 compared to such desperation?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You know, if you had dropped a lit cigar on your front seat, it would cost even more than that to repair. You really have no choice...things could get very nasty under that carpeting.
  • gami74gami74 Member Posts: 1
    Hi ceyda79,
    I have exactly the same problem. My car is from October 2006 as well. Could you please write the TSB number or even the link for it if you have ? I was looking for it in goole but I cannot find exactly this TSB :(
    Thank you
    gami74
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Okay, in the fall I did an oil change and left the oil cap off my engine. Went for a few miles before I noticed the burning oil smell. When I stopped, I had an engine bay with oil sprayed all over. After much cleaning of the bay, I still notice the slightly burnt smell of oil still coming through when I turn on the vents. Although it is no where near what it was, I still smell it very subtly. I replaced the cabin air filter thinking that would take care of the last of it, but I still smell it slightly. Anyone have this happen to them, and if so any suggestions?
  • jandj1988jandj1988 Member Posts: 4
    I am the owner of a 2003 Mazda6s with automatic transmission. Within the last week or so, I have noticed a shudder when gradually accelerating at around 40 mph. I can't tell if it is transmission or engine related. I brought it to the dealer today and they said it checked out fine - no problems identified. They said they noticed the shudder but chalked it up to normal. I told them I have been driving the car for 3+ years and that wasn't normal. They couldn't help me. Anybody else experience something similar? Any ideas as to cause?
  • blackmazdablackmazda Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2007 Mazda 6 S Grand Touring with 18 inch wheels. While I was driving it home from the dealer I could feel the car pulling to the right and to the left at times. Also, twice while I was rolling to a stop on a side road the wheel jerked to the right as the car stopped. I went back and asked the dealership about this and asked them to make sure it was aligned properly. They said they did an alignment check and it was fine.

    They told me that the reason the car is pulling is because of the 18 inch wheels. They said they hug the road and result in the pulling to the left and right when driving on uneven surfaces. Have other people had this problem with their Mazda 6's? I want to be sure that there is really nothing wrong before I wait to long.

    It just seemed strange that the pulling is "normal" on a 27,000 dollar car. My last car was a 12,000 nissan sentra and that didnt pull on the same roads that I'm driving my mazda on.

    Any advice, comments, suggestions, or people having a similar problem please respond. Thank you!
  • blackmazdablackmazda Member Posts: 4
    Hi Gami, I just bought a 2007 Mazda 6 and I am also having the same problem. Is your car pulling hard to the right or is it more drifting to the right and left?

    Also did you find the TSB?

    Thanks!
  • blackmazdablackmazda Member Posts: 4
    Have you or anyone on this thread had there situation resolved with the pulling? When I took my car back to the dealership the next day they told me it was normal because of the 18inch wheels. Can someone describe what their pulling is like so I can compare.

    Let me know how everyone is handling this situation. Thanks.
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