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When you turn on the ACC to "auto", the "A/C" light will turn on. Does this mean that the A/C is actually running? No. It means that the A/C is, for lack of a better term, "armed", meaning the ACC can use it if it's needed.
If you turn on the "auto" and turn off the A/C, both lights go out. The system is still in full auto mode, it just can't use the A/C.
The other controls are similar: If you have it on "auto" and manually adjust the fan speed, direction, or A/C button, that specific component remains at your specific setting, but the ACC still controls the other functions automatically. An example: if you hit "auto" then turn the fan speed to the second setting, the fan will stay at the same speed all the time, but the ACC will still change the air direction and A/C use to reach and/or maintain the set temperature.
One more thing: the "auto" light will only go on when the ACC is in FULL auto mode, and no controls have been manually changed.
I hope this helps...
Absolutely. If the car continues to blow out cold air after 5-10 minutes of warming up, then it sounds like there is something wrong with the ACC itself, either the heat or the temperature sensors. If your dealer isn't very helpful, I'd try another dealership, and show them the problem yourself.
Also, the seat heaters turn off on their own.
That's normal. They are on a timer to turn themselves off.
Thanks so much for your help...
The usual procedure is to try switching the front tires (left to right) to see if it then pulls the other way. If not, then they would try the same thing with rear tires.
Yes, and yes.
Any advice? Should I just get a new set of winter tires with the "correct" size? And what should that size be - 215-50R17, 215-45R17, or even go down as low as 16" ?
If the 225/50s fit the car without any rubbing issues, then by all means, save your $$$ and use them. The difference in odometer and speedometer calibration between the 18" and 17" sizes is 0.9%, well within the recommended 2% limit. Plus, many Mazda6 owners use 225/50-17s, as well as 225/45-17s.
If you do go with 16", the stock size is 205/60-16 (which is what I use with 16" steelies for my winter tires).
Tirerack is always VERY conservative with their sizing, but if they work for you, then save the $$$ and put it toward something else.
I do need to get new lug nuts (longer kind), and new hub rings ... the lugs I can probably get locally, but where can I get the correct size hub rings for my wheel (which is why I called TireRack in the first place).
I was looking here to find out if others were having similar issues, or whether my ACC was simply defective. Since others are having similar problems, I'm hoping this isn't a case of a poorly designed system. I've had previous vehicles with ACC (GM, Nissan), and they were set-and-forget, always keeping the interior comfortable.
I'm taking the car in tomorrow to have the dealer look into this, so hopefully it's something they can fix, and they won't just tell me it seems to be working as intended.
From the messages here it seems that I'm not the only one who has problems with the ACC. I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing issues with their ACC, in case this is a common issue, but either not enough people have complained about it, or maybe Mazda isn't admitting it.
From what I've seen and heard (based on many other forums besides this one, and other 6 owners), the ACC is not as common of a problem as one might think. My ACC has worked well from day one, and many others have as well.
Does it rule out any problem with yours? Absolutely not. I'd check with another dealer if the problem surfaces again, and if you need to, go as far as showing them yourself the issue that you have.
I'm glad that your ACC is working well. However, I'm trying to find users that are having a problem. I know I'm not completely alone, as [kbf59] also indicated that their system was acting-up. There may be others who have looked here for answers, but haven't posted before now.
Showing the dealer is easier said than done with an intermittent problem. Murphy's Law means that it's not going to act-up in the five or ten minutes when the mechanic is there, so unless the dealer wants to have someone ride around with me for an afternoon, my next best bet was to see if others had an issue, and with any luck maybe find someone who was able to get it corrected. At very least, if others are having a similar problem, then it should be brought to Mazda's attention.
I've also had the problem of not enough heat, though since it's been unseasonably warm here in NJ, I only experienced that a few times. When it's cold outside, at times I only get lukewarm air, even after the engine is fully warmed-up. I know the system can put out very hot air, since it has done so when I didn't want it. But since it doesn't always misbehave, it's not just something I can show to the dealer.
In general I'm very happy with the car, but this is the second major issue I've had, and I've got less than 3600 miles on it. When I first got it, the NAV system wasn't working right-- the GPS didn't function (it ran only on dead-reckoning), and the voice command didn't work. It took 3 trips to the dealer to get it fixed, and the problem turned out to be that much of the wiring was never connected at the factory. :mad:
I hope you are able to get your alignment problem resolved, and with any luck also the heater. Good Luck!
I have a 2003 Mazda6 i. It has the manual ac. Anyway, my problem has to do with the heat. When the car fully warms up, I can have the heat on. Only lukewarm air comes out, unless I am driving or revving the engine. Then the air will get hotter. When I stop at a light, the air will turn cooler. Then again will get hot again when i am moving. Is this a simple fix, or will I be spending major $$$ at the dealer? I am going to take it into the dealer for an oil change this Monday, so I plan to mention this other problem too.
I spent an hour using paper towels to mop up the milk from the front and rear floor covers, and from the floor itself, which was saturated in the front. There was some in the back seat floor area as well, which I also mopped up. I worked until I could no longer see milk coming up through the rug when I pushed on it with my hand.
How much more work needs to be done after the floor rug, and floor mats, dry out? I'm thinking a professional cleaning is in order, but I've never had one done. My car has just 6,000 miles on it and is soon due for an oil change, which I planned to get, at the dealer, next week. Should I ask the dealer to also address the milk-in-the-carpet issue, or is preferable to take the car somewhere else (hopefully a little more affordable)?
I've noticed is that my car has a tendency to get moisture or frost on the inside of the glass (mostly the windshield) in certain conditions, most often when it has been in cold and wet weather, then warming occurs while it is parked (especially if the sun is out). Nothing else inside the vehicle is ever wet, so I don't think there are any leaks but judging by the location of the heaviest condensation/frost on the windshield, I suspect the moisture is coming out of the defroster ducts. I've often wondered if this is what causes my windows to freeze up in the winter.
My '00 626 experienced this as well, but not nearly as much. With both cars I have also observed that after being subjected to conditions similar to those described above, when the A/C is first used the air coming out of the vents has a very noticeable musty odor.
My theory on what causes all this is that moisture is sitting someplace inside the vehicle after it has been icy/snowy/wet, then that moisture evaporates inside the HVAC system someplace and travels up through the ducts and into the passenger compartment. I'd guess that the moisture gets in through the outside vents just in front of the windshield, but I'm not sure. Water entering those seems to exit underneath the car when I wash it, but I wonder if a bit of it trickles into some place(s) it shouldn't at times.
Anyone else have thoughts on this?
In the Mazda6, I think the problem was worsened (until I started looking for techniques to deal with it) by the fact that when the auto climate system is set to use only the floor vents, the A/C compressor runs and cannot be disabled, which is not the case in any other car I have owned. That little quirk has been discussed on one of these forums in the past. Even so, using the abovementioned techniques seems to help keep the symptoms from occurring as frequently as they used to.
I feel that the design of the system has to get some of the responsibility here, because our Subaru is frequently driven straight into it's parking spot with the defroster or A/C running, and it never has moisture on the glass or a musty smell coming from it's vents.
TSB: Squeak/Moan Noise From Front Brakes
Mine's a 2004 6s. They did fix a recall item, MSP10 which I guess has to do with a malfunction light. I declined the brake service right now.
I'm hoping someone can pull up the rug and replace whatever mat is beneath the carpet.
At the recommendation of the folks who deliver our milk, and who have spilled many gallons of the stuff over the year, I've put two applications of soap and water on the carpet. Today I added some enzymatic pet-odor stuff that we once used for to get a cat-pee smell out of the carpet in our condo.
I'm willing to be patient a little while longer, since the cold weather is back, suppressing the smell somewhat. But I'm a little disappointed that no one here had any recommendations.
I'm prepared to do it. My own efforts haven't had the success I'd hoped, and I find myself thinking about selling the 6-month-old 2006 model (stupid idea!), or, in my weaker moments, fantasizing that someone might run into me on the highway and total the vehicle, so I can get a replacement.
Assuming I'm still alive, that is.
What's $300 compared to such desperation?
I have exactly the same problem. My car is from October 2006 as well. Could you please write the TSB number or even the link for it if you have ? I was looking for it in goole but I cannot find exactly this TSB
Thank you
gami74
They told me that the reason the car is pulling is because of the 18 inch wheels. They said they hug the road and result in the pulling to the left and right when driving on uneven surfaces. Have other people had this problem with their Mazda 6's? I want to be sure that there is really nothing wrong before I wait to long.
It just seemed strange that the pulling is "normal" on a 27,000 dollar car. My last car was a 12,000 nissan sentra and that didnt pull on the same roads that I'm driving my mazda on.
Any advice, comments, suggestions, or people having a similar problem please respond. Thank you!
Also did you find the TSB?
Thanks!
Let me know how everyone is handling this situation. Thanks.