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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mazdaedmazdaed Member Posts: 7
    My 1 month old 6i Touring drifts slowly to the right at highway speeds (with no hands on steering wheel). Has anyone else noticed this problem with the '07's ? It looks like there was a TSB for this problem for the '06's.
  • birdbmwbirdbmw Member Posts: 4
    I had this problem on my Mazda 6 Diesel Sport pulling to the nearside.

    Took it into a Mazda dealer who told me it was OK.

    Total crap, I was a Police Vehicle examiner for twenty years.

    I took it to a company who had computer alignment equipment who set it up properly. A total different car afterwards, I sent the bill to Mazda who paid it.The delearship disgreed with the findings.
    Guess what they closed down a short time afterwards.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Doing a really good alignment takes a lot of patience, which most shops don't exercise....the old "good enough" syndrome.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    My 2003 Mazda6 is coming up on a break pad replacement and I wanted to see who here has upgraded to ceramic pads. The brake dust on the fronts has always been an issue, and I hear that ceramics will help cut the dust, and perform better. Would love to hear some experiences and a brand of pads that people prefer. Thanks.
  • midwesttradermidwesttrader Member Posts: 291
    My original factory battery will be four years old this coming Fall and I want to replace it. Any recommendations?
  • mitchinpamitchinpa Member Posts: 40
    mjvchicago

    I replaced the fronts with ceramic about 4 months ago. LOVE them. It cut the awful brake dust from the original pads down by 90% (at least). Only issue is the brakes squeak the first 2 or 3 times you use them. After they heat up a little, the squeak is gone.
  • ilovecars89ilovecars89 Member Posts: 2
    Im buying an Mazda 6 s Grand touring in a few months, but I constantly read that there is a alignment issue or sometype of issue with the 18 inch wheels. Has this problem been resolved on the 2007 models, or are they previous model year issues? Also is this a good car to buy?(quality, reliability, ect.), or is it one I will have serveral trips to the dealership with?
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    tell me if this is the bulb or mechanism.... Once in a while I go to turn on the headlights, and I only get the drivers side headlight. I go out and tap the lens of the passenger light and it comes on. This doesn't happen every time. most times I get both. Is this the bulb, or loose mechanism?

    Mazda6 i 2003 sedan
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    It could be either. A loose connection in the bulb itself, or in the harness attached to the headlight unit.
  • madmax1madmax1 Member Posts: 2
    :mad: :confuse:

    I own a 2004 6s, top of the line. 4 months ago I started to hear rattle noise coming from the back. Long story short, after going to the dealer 3 times, it turns out the entire rear panel where the subwoofer sits is loose/coming apart and had to be replaced.

    I guess it's not good craftsmanship. What a shame.
  • ggunhouseggunhouse Member Posts: 1
    Was there ever an explanation discovered for this problem? I have encountered something similar, for the second time. Everything seemed fine, until one day, the battery was apparently completely dead. Turning the ignition key did nothing except light up a few dashboard lights and move the needles, then, after a while, not even that. No lights, no radio, no door locks, nothing. Thinking the factory battery had died, I replaced it, which solved the problem. Still, I took the car in to a local garage and had them check the alternator. Everything was fine with the electrical system, they said. Now, one month later, the same thing. I went out to the car and the electric door locks would not open. All I heard was a quite click. Again, turning the igition key just lit some dash lights and moved the needles. I've called my local Mazda dealer and explained the situation. They are acting like they've never heard of this problem happening to anyone else. I'm having the car towed in to their service department on Monday. Anything in particular I should tell them to check?
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Went to rotate the tires on our 2005 6S today. I was unable to break the rear rims loose from the hubs. I was pounding on the back side of the rims with a rubber hammer, no movement at all. We bought this car used with 41,100 miles. It now has 45,000. It was supposedly maintained at the original dealership with oil changes and tire rotations. I do not believe they could have been rotating the tires if they are corroded onto the hubs. I managed to get the front ones loose, as I believe the front brakes pads have been replaced. This week I am going to the original dealership (not where I bought the car, but in the same city), and have them get the rear wheels loose. I am not going to pay them for this, as it is obvious to me they have not been rotating the tires as they say they have. With each of my cars, the first time I remove the wheels, I put anti-seize on the rim/hub interface and the lug nut threads.
  • krame00krame00 Member Posts: 21
    Well, I had a similar problem, excepting the issue with the door locks.

    We figured out on the board that the safety mechanism that prevents the car from being started when the clutch is not engaged (or if the car is not in neutral for automatics) was acting haywire. Now, whenever I turn the key, and the car will not start, I just have to disengage the clutch and engage it again, and the car will start. I have an '03 Mazda 6.

    Khana
  • evaddaveevaddave Member Posts: 156
    We had something like this happen on our Jeep. Got back from a week-long vacation to find the battery dead (in the airport parking lot). Got a jump-start, luckily, and drove home. Took it in for service, but they found nothing. This happened again when the Jeep sat overnight and I had them tow the Jeep to the dealership.

    It turns out that the glove box latch was misaligned and allowed the glove box light to stay on even when the glove box door was shut.

    So have the dealership check the load on the battery to see if anything is draining the battery while it sits. You never know what they might find out... :)
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I'm really late replying here, but in case you're still looking for brake pad experiences here's one...

    I just replaced all the pads on my '04 6s with Bendix ceramics. I've had good luck with Bendix in the past, I like their lifetime warranty, and while they are not always as easy to find on short notice as cheaper pads, at least one store usually has some on a shelf in my area. I wanted to try Hawk ceramics but didn't plan far enough in advance and nobody could get them to me for a reasonable price in less than 2 or 3 days.

    So far (after 2 weeks) they are working great. They don't bite quite as well until warmed up which is expected for ceramics. I'm seeing less dust on the wheels than I did with the stock pads, and it is lighter in color. The OEM pads also glued themselves to the rotors a bit (resulting in some pad transfer) when the car was parked and the wheels got wet, but the ceramics haven't done that to me yet so I'm hoping that situation has improved.
  • jbahjbah Member Posts: 23
    that whole assembly is VERY easy to take off. You might have fixed this by now, but you can take the whole console off in like three minutes. You have to just take out the screws in the ash tray, remove your shift nob, and unsnap (carefully) the top silver piece off and then the cup holder section snaps off. Just be gentle.
  • jbahjbah Member Posts: 23
    the oil is getting into your tranny and coming out,,,the main seal probably was installed poorly in the factory is my guess.
  • jbahjbah Member Posts: 23
    I had the same noise with my M6S at like 20k miles. I was shocked to know it was the starter too b/c it does sound like a belt, but it's apparently not so.
  • skye_babieskye_babie Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have just started having this issue with my Mazda today. Can you please tell me what the problem was and more importantly...how much it was to get fixed $$$

    Thank you
  • danboydanboy Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone had that problem fix and explanation? I just got the same starting problem last Thursday and had my 2004 mazda6 tow to the dealer. When I turn the key ON the safety light in the dashboard start to flicker very fast and then all the needles are going crazy but the car doesn't start at all, can't ear anything with the starter. The needles are still going crazy even after taking the key out of the ignition for about 5 sec. My electric lock are would not open also, just hear the clicking sound in the door but nothing happen.
    The dealer check the computer did not find anything. Like everyone who had the same problem, the dealer said the battery was dead (which in my case could be true, because in February my alternator when down and drain empty my battery. I had the battery recharge but I know I would have to replace at one point) change the battery and the problem was fix, no starting problem. But I told the dealer that will not fix the problem and it will come back. The dealer told me they can't do anything more for now they had to change the battery first anyway because she was dead and the problem is not there anymore so they can't see the starting problem. If the problem come back I will have to go again to the dealer... that sound like it will cost me lot of $$$ trying to find a problem that they don't have a clue!
  • acettacett Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2006 Mazda 6 Grand Touring V6 model with the 6 speed AT. This car has the 18" wheels as well.

    To date, I have close to 11,000 miles on the vehicle, which includes various driving conditions, and have not experienced the problem described in your email. Nor have I heard of the same problem with other owners (w/ 18" wheels).

    It has been over six months since you posted this problem so hopefully your problem has been resolved. There are few things as frustrating as having a new car with an apparent problem and not receiving the proper attention from the manufacturer.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I have an 07 GT 5 door. No tire hop at all.
    There is a small amount of wobble felt during low speeds and during braking. It is minor and may be caused by imperfections in road surface, tires out of balance during intitial break-in, or rotors that are warped.
    I've experienced this increased perception of wobble on other vehicles when larger wheels and low profile tires have been added.
    If the wheels and tires are in balance and the rotors true there should be no issue. Difficult to know how severe your problem is without driving your car.
  • mysticalmystical Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 45000 service last week. This is the 1st trouble I have had with it. Today the car would not start and the gauges went bananas even after I pulled the key from the ignition. I called for a jump and it started right away, but down the road, 4 miles or so, the car just stopped and the gauges started doing a crazy dance even after I pulled the key. Even the emergency blinkers would not work. I had it towed to the dealership, 8 miles away, and it was still doing the crazy song & dance.

    It's under warrenty, barely, but still there. Once I find out what the story is from the dealer, I will repost...
  • rdawgrdawg Member Posts: 15
    I can't figure out why the rear seat dome lights stopped coming on when the doors are opened and going off automatically. I know they did when i got the car, but I just realized they stopped. The switch is on 'door' like the front switch, and when you open the back or front doors only the front seat lights come on. The rear lights will work if you push the buttons to turn them on though. I has to be something easy I am just missing.
  • gbergomigbergomi Member Posts: 1
    The same thing happened to me last night - wouldn't start, gauges going nuts, lights flashing. Looked like computer was fried or something.

    Turns out this is the "normal" failure that occurs when the battery goes dead. Dealer confirmed there was nothing abnormal. Had new battery installed, shop checked the charge and everything is fine. Kind of a relief to replace the battery vs. the CPU or something...
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    Is there any special reason I need to get the dealers "Mazda" brakes vs going to a brake shop down the street? I have a 2003 Mazda6. Dealer wants $377 to fix rear brakes and down the street charges $270. Anything special besides dealer wanting top dollar? Also is anything special about Mazda oil changes at the dealer vs any other oil change place? Are the average oil changing places ramped up on Mazda 6 (IE Cartridge system)?

    The only reason I go to my Mazda dealer is for oil changes, as I know this car has a goofy Cartridge/O ring system, and for the free Mazda 'inspection'. I just went over the 60k mile mark and they found that my transmission fluid needs flushed. Is there any reason I should go to the dealer for that, or would any place like Meineke be ok for that?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    My advice is to have minimum of oil changes and inspections performed at dealer during the warranty period. Your past that point. Maintaining goodwill and consistently obtaining service at the same place is a wise practice IMHO.
    Any competent mechanic can perform maintenance on the 6. No reason not to use an independent that is reputable.
    Cost for new Mazda rotors and pads is about $190 total fyi.
    If you don't like the cartridge oil change system there is a kit to change to a cannister for the Mazda6 2.3L. Showcase Mazda sells it and any Mazda dealer can obtain the parts.
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    If you don't like the cartridge oil change system there is a kit to change to a cannister for the Mazda6 2.3L. Showcase Mazda sells it and any Mazda dealer can obtain the parts.

    The question remains though, do you think the average oil change place is ramped up on the Mazda cartridge system, or is it still a good idea to do it at the dealer?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    It is not a difficult procedure to change the oil on the Mazda6, so yes, the average oil change shop can handle it fine.
    Using an element (cartridge) is not unique to Mazda. Some GM's use them, VW's use them,...etc.

    I still use a full service shop when not using the dealer unless I am buying tires.
    What is right for me may not be right for you.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • mkovacsmkovacs Member Posts: 3
    I love my Mazda6 2005, looking for the answer. I probably am the only one in S. Korea. Still, electric fan runs consistantly, A/C on or off. A/C cools normally. Engine warms quickly, Fuel gauge reads normal. Electric fan control unit above/under the shroud gone bad? 24K miles. Thermostat stuck? Looking for help. Ford dealer in Korea say they cannot diagnostic vehicle.
  • dbstahlmandbstahlman Member Posts: 3
    I have the 4 cylinder. A new (rebuilt) Mass flow sensor from A Zone seems to have corrected the problem.
  • jbwilkjbwilk Member Posts: 5
    I'm at 49,000 on my 05 6 Sport and it was the battery also. Nothing like being greeted first thing in the morning to "click click click" and haywire gauges at the turn of the key. :sick: After a jump I made it to the dealer and (after 2 hours including an oil change) was the proud owner of a new battery, but warranty? HAH! Cost me $93.00 (+ the oil change), a savings of 10%. Apparently the warranty was "prorated." Bumper-to-bumper to 50k? Right. :mad:
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    A battery is considered a wear item, and usually not covered in a bumper-to-bumper warranty, similar to brake pads, rotors, wiper blades, etc.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I agree with mz6. Battery is wear item just like tires.
    The warranty is explained in detail in the warranty booklet that is delivered with the vehicle.
  • datdudedatdude Member Posts: 5
    (Sorry for the long post below but I'm sure the info may be helpful to those of you having or will be having the battery failure/weird electrical problem that is starting to show up on Mazda6's).

    Last Saturday in the driveway, my '05 Mazda6 Sport w/V6, automatic and low mileage (13,500) had the same no-start, crazy dancing needles on the gauges with and without the key in the ignition, buzzing sound when the hazard lights were turned on (or attempted to be turned on), can't unlock or lock doors via key fob, etc. When I saw the bouncing needles on the dash, I too initially thought that the engine computer had fried as others have mentioned. But as I investigated and checked the battery voltage as tehigham did in message #2306, I also measured 12.7 V (by the way, the "green eye" charge indicator that your battery has on the topside is not to be trusted, i.e., if it shows green, as my battery did, the battery is suppose to be fine). Knowing that 12.7 V is too low for a healthy battery, which should read closer to 14 V, I turned on the headlights to load the battery and saw the voltage drop to 7.2V. This told me that I had a bad battery with probably a bad cell. Now I did the following which resulted in a little bit different warranty experience than jbwilk above in message #2360.
    1. Knowing that I had some warranty coverage on my battery (I thought 25% since I'm past 24 months per the warranty book), I went to the nearest Walmart to find out the cost of the cheapest battery for my car. The only battery I could find was selling for $53 and had a 60 month warranty. Knowing that the dealer would overcharge for probably a 36 month battery, I called the local Mazda dealer to discuss my situation and then determine the better option. They let me know that they would pro-rate to 50% (better than the 25% I thought) and the labor to install the battery would be covered under the 4 yr/50K mile vehicle warranty (all this was assuming the battery was bad). I asked for a tow since I have roadside assistance (don't we all have this when we buy the Mazda6?) and was referred to Mazda Customer Care (1-800-...). Customer Care arranged for a tow truck and it arrived 45 minutes later (as I was told by an automated computer that called me a couple of times as to the status of the tow truck - worked very well and was accurate.)
    2. I didn't let the tow truck driver jump my battery as he wanted because of what I had already found out through the voltage check, but also because I had charged my battery overnight Saturday and still had the no start condition and weird electrical signs.
    3. When I arrived at the dealership in the tow truck with my car, I let the service guy know that I also wanted the recall done for the fan control module (code SSP 71) since I recvd a letter on this issue some time ago (April 2007). Now I tried to get him to throw in the battery for free since I argued that the fan's erratic behavior shortened the battery's life (the fan sometimes ran at different speeds after engine shut off or came on even when the engine was cold and the A/C was off). He didn't disagree with my reasoning but ultimately said that I should have had the recall done several months ago. I pushed a little more but he was telling me that if the battery was bad, he was going to replace it at a cost of $45 to me (50% pro-rated). I said that I could get a 60 month battery at Walmart for $53, but then he said I would also receive a 60 month battery but better yet the pro-rating would not apply with the dealership replacement battery. I would, however, pay for the labor to install the new battery if it every went bad which he said wouldn't be very much. I said Ok but also ask that he check the poor performing AC, which he blew off saying that nothing could be done about the weak AC (another dealer had said the same thing to me a while ago about Mazda6's and knowing that a lot of Mazda owners have had this complaint via their messages on Edmunds, I dropped the request). I also ask the service guy to check the sluggish throttle response (even though I had another dealer download the electronic throttle software fix which had almost cured the lag problem).
    4. The recall work provided me a rental car for free. I was driven to a Herz rental car agency nearby and made the mistake of giving them my credit card when I was asked. After my brain was finally engaged, but too late since my number was now in the Herz computer, I started questioning the Herz guy why my credit card number was needed. He really didn't give me a straight answer, but he did acknowledge that some people who get the dealership loaner car have refused to give Herz their credit card number. So I take it that you don't need to give your credit card number when getting a free rental car during dealership work. Also, when he asked for my insurance company name, I politely refused and he was OK with that. After I got the rental paperwork, I noticed that Mazda would only provide $30 coverage so I was now vulnerable to any overcharges by Herz (by the way, don't play with the GPS in the rental car because you could get charged $10.95 per day for doing so).
    4. Today Tuesday (it's actually very early Wed. morning as I write this), I got my car back from Mazda. They did find the battery to be faulty and replaced it for $45. They didn't do anything about the throttle response issue because I already had the software fix - I was hoping that Mazda had a second update since I'm still not happy with the sluggish response. I also had the oil changed for $19.95 due a coupon I printed out from the dealer's website. So I paid the dealer a total of $67.09 and ended up with a 60 month "Mazda" battery, an oil change, a new fan control module (the fan isn't running erratically anymore), and a car wash plus interior vacuum. This is not bad considering that last time I had my Honda minivan serviced at the Honda dealer it cost me over $800 for 60,000 mile service. I know, I got ripped off...
    5. And speaking of rip off, when I returned the rental to Herz (Mazda didn't let me just drop the rental off at their place), I was looking at a big extra charge. Now, before I had left Herz on Monday, I made it very clear to them, knowing that Mazda would provide a rental car for only one day (exactly 24 hrs.), I did not expect to be charged for having the car a little over 24 hrs - obviously, delays can happen with dealership work. I was reassured that this wouldn't be an issue. But sure enough, I had the car for 27 hrs. and Herz was looking to charge my credit card with another day of rental (hence, I shouldn't have given them my credit card!). The other thing I did before I left the Mazda dealership on Monday, I asked the service guy about having the rental car beyond the one day if needed due to the repairs. He said no problem, they would cover any time over one day since I was asking Mazda to do more work than just the recall -
  • datdudedatdude Member Posts: 5
    I'm in California and received a recall for the erratic fan behavior in April 2007. Turns out the fan control module needs to be replaced. This recall is known as SSP71 (I think this stands for Special Service Program 71) which is a recall notice. This is a no charge repair with free rental car for a day (at least, these are the terms I recvd). Hope you can get this repair for your car in Korea!
  • mkovacsmkovacs Member Posts: 3
    datdude,
    Just wanted to says thanks for you input about our Mazdas.
  • mkovacsmkovacs Member Posts: 3
    datdude,
    I have the notice here for the SSP71. I am hoping Mazda can send the unit here and somehow provide me the location to replace it, whether it be Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda (but I think there is not Mazda dealership in Korea) or maybe through the Army Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) Motor Vehicles Sales. I am calling after Columbus Day.
  • datdudedatdude Member Posts: 5
    mkovacs - I'm hoping that you'll be able to get your fan control module as well. Now that I have it on my car, the erratic fan behavior is gone and the fan acts "normal" or as normal as expected.

    As a side note, I used to work for AAFES at Mather Air Force Base in Sacramento, CA over 20 yrs. ago. My dad was in the USAF so I know exactly what you're talking about. I just hope AAFES has improved like 150% since I worked for them - especially when it comes to ordering things.
  • cheffromagecheffromage Member Posts: 1
    I've a 6 Wagon GT. Don't have the Pirellis and don't have wheel hop. However, my previous ride was a Saab 9-5 with the Pirelli PZeros and those tires would flat spot over night, which I understand is not uncommon for low profile tires. Is the wheel hop most noticeable after the car sits overnight and does it seem to disappear after you drive for a while? If so, it's due to flat spots. The same thing happens on my Miata, which has Kumho Ecstas.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Have you ever driven a tight suspension car with low profile tires? from the description of your problem, I will say NO.

    I have the 2003 Mazda6 with 18" wheels and 235/40/18 tires and the ride is amazing over 66000 miles. Feels as good as the day I bought it.

    I will say what you are feeling is road irregularities which will be easily transmitted to you (feedback) because of the low profile / high perf tires.
  • tameegunntameegunn Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Mazda6 in March of this year...great car, absolutely love it. In August, the check engine light came on, and a few days later both key fobs stopped working. Service department reprogrammed the key fobs (said they "just stopped communicating with the car") and tightened my gas cap. They told me the check engine light came on because I had not turned the cap the required 3 times (oh, but I did) and to be sure I do from then on or the light would come on again. Two weeks ago, check engine light came on again, car idles way down at stop lights as if it will cut off, after pumping gas I have to crank the engine and keep my foot on the gas in order to start the car, and this weekend the key fobs stoppped working again. The car goes in for service again on Wednesday, but I'd love to know if anyone else is having similar issues? I LOVE my car, but this is a little ridiculous.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Front tires are starting to cup. Zero issues other than the tires.
  • slt3442slt3442 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda6 with 50000 miles and had very simliar issues when starting it up for the last couple of months. I would have to pump the gas in order to keep the car from idling way down or even dying. I've taken it into the dealership (before 50000) and they claimed to fix it. Low and behold I went to start it up yesterday and it did the same thing. Then that afternoon it wouldn't start at all. Don't know if the two problems are related, but now it just cranks and cranks. We just replaced the battery a week ago because it was dead (1st replacement since purchase). We have towed it to the dealership and are waiting on a response. Hopefully this will go under my warranty since the didn't fix it the first time!
  • dsiriasdsirias Member Posts: 34
    Just 2K miles on car. I filled up yesterday and clicked the gas cap once. That might be it. But no other problems so far. I have read in other mazda forums that the check engine light will go away after a few days if it's really just the fuel cap and it has been tightened.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Klasse

    awesome protection.
  • karlomariokarlomario Member Posts: 1
    Hi , I came across your issue becauseI have had the same situation , and it started with my keyless not able to start // I have a mazda 6 with 50.000 miles 2003 , bought it from a dealer and Ive bee nexperiencing the same issue and now,im getting the check engine light on // I m wondering it it has to do something with the electrical system
    first time here sorry if this was asked recently !!!!!

    KARLO
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    Start with cel...autozone or most auto parts suppliers will
    plug in their reader for free...at least in westcentral IL.
  • dsiriasdsirias Member Posts: 34
    Two days after I re-tightened the gas cap. This is just as predicted by several posters at Mazda forum. I guess it takes time for the computer to re-set IF it is just a gas cap issue. But if there are other electrical symptoms, it seems like one should proceed to the dealer without delay.
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