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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ifixpcsifixpcs Member Posts: 4
    I have a '03 Mazda6 and over the past week I have been having some problems when my car's engine is cold. In the mornings or if the car has been setting for a few hours the car is extremly hard to start. After serveral attempts the engine gets warm enough to start but it idles roughly. Once the temp needle gets in temp reading range the rough idling starts getting smoother and stablizes once the temp gets to about the normal range. Since the outside temp has been cold lately I have been using the heater which also effects the situation. Using the heater drives the engine temp down causing the to stall. Is there a sensor that regulates this? Oh and the engine light is on.

    I am hoping that someone has the solution to this because if I can repair this myself that would be great...... car repair is exspensive especially at the dealer.

    Thank you......... in advance! :cry:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Many auto parts stores, such as autozone, will read the check engine codes for you for free. So you might start by doing that and seeing if you can find out why that is on.
  • jcotyjjcotyj Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problems with my 06 it took the dealership awhile to figure it out, cuz kept telling me gas cap was triggering it. DO yo smell gas if you fill up tank completeley? It ended up that they had to replace the entire tank to fix the issue something in the tank releasing fumes and causeing engine light to come on and made car die.
  • jcotyjjcotyj Member Posts: 3
    I swear that the center Dial(the one that us used to turn on the front defrost) used to have a light behind it that would illuminate the white parts of the dial like the other two but the dealer says that it is not supposed to. Does anyone know it it really does or am I just crazy.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Nope. You're not crazy. All three of the dials light up.
  • koosvanderkoosvander Member Posts: 2
    I'm shopping for a wagon car since I need the cargo space, but don't want the poor fuel consumption of an SUV. The VW Passat wagon is great, but they have a terrible maintenance history, plus expensive dealer service requireed for most issues even oil-change!

    I'm considering the Mazda6 wagon (used, perhaps 2005 or newer). What is the reputation for quality, repair, maintenance cost? What are the Mazda6 major known problems I should look out for?

    Thank for your input, you make this forum great!
  • m6idriverm6idriver Member Posts: 2
    So it is about a month later after all these posts concerning the non start issue, haywire needles dancing around, etc. I would like to know if it was indeed the battery that was the issue. I have a read a few posts where people have changed the battery and down the road the car again fails to start.

    This has now happened to me yesterday. As I parked the car in my driveway, my wheels were turned. I wanted to straighten them up, but when I tried to turn the car back on, nothing except the clicking and the crazy needles jumping back and forth. I rolled the car and straightened the wheels thinking that it had something to do with it, but still it would not start. About a year ago, I this problem if my wheels were turned, I couldn't even turn my key, so I ended up having the ingition switch replaced under warranty. The problem I had yesterday was a bit different because the key was turning fine, it just wasn't starting the car and all it was doing was clicking and needles jumping around.

    When I boosted the car, it started and I let it run for a bit. However, when I shut the car down and tried to restart, it wouldn't start. Again the clicking and the needles.

    So I bought a new battery from Walmart (89$ - Energizer) and I will replace the old battery today. I just wanted to hear from anyone that may have found something in the car that was causing the over drain on the battery's charge or if it is simply time for a battery change? I'm driving a 2004 (bought in 2003) 6i Sedan manual with 69K km.

    Thanks. WIthout these message boards, I think we would really be at the mercy of the dealers and service centres when it comes such issues.
  • koosvanderkoosvander Member Posts: 2
    I don't know anything about your car, but there are some basic clues that you have that can guide you.

    If the car starts easily when you jumped it, then you probably have a battery-power problem. The indication is that you may not have had enough power to turn the motor for starting, or not enough power to operate the electronics (ECU/computer) which is vital to starting/operating. That usually means the battery was weak, or a cable connection was not reliable. A strong battery can overcome a poor electrical connection to some degree.

    After jump starting, your car would not start on it's own. So the power supplied by the jump-start was sufficient, but your own car did not charge your battery sufficiently, or you were not able to get sufficient power from your battery again.

    With a simple voltmeter from radio-shack you can do a preliminary/basic battery check. Most repair shops can do this for you too. You should also check all cables and connections that come from your battery. Do a visual check, and try to move the connections. Make sure they are all clean (no corrosion) and attached well/solidly. A flimsy connection can severely reduce the power throughput from the battery.

    If your battery and connections are good, then you have a more complex problem, perhaps an ECU/computer issue. You dealer will have to do more testing in that case.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You can also get a free check of battery, alternator, and starter from some auto parts stores...eg. Autozone, Advance Auto.
  • m6idriverm6idriver Member Posts: 2
    I put the new battery in and the car starts up fine. I'm still heading to the garage tomorrow to get them to look at the electricals and test the old battery. One thing I noticed when I changed the battery was on the negative side of the battery, there was some sort of dried substance around the terminal area and it dripped down the side of the battery. The foam wrap, that covers the sides of the battery was also wet on the negative side telling me that whatever it is dripped down the side of the battery. I don't know anything about batteries, but this does not look normal... or perhaps this is how a car battery fails... I don't know.
  • nance999nance999 Member Posts: 2
    My concerns are rear view mirror reflection and cost of repairs, e.g. struts $3700.00
  • ifixpcsifixpcs Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Mazda 6 and I went to Autozone to run a computer check as to why my engine light is on. The guy gave me a code of P0340. Does anyone know what this means. :confuse:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Googling Mazda6 P0340 reveals that P0340 = CMP sensor circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM.
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    Every winter it always happens.... my windows will get stuck in the up position. Only after the inside of the car gets warm will the windows 'break free' and then be able to be rolled down. This has happened the last 3 winters. Is there anything that can be done to the doors/ mechanism so that this will not happen? My car is a 2003 Mazda6 i
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    NEver happened to me, yet. I lived in PA for 2 years, currently in TX.

    How about spraying some silicone spray in the groove of rubber weatherstriping of the window?
  • birdbmwbirdbmw Member Posts: 4
    Having just received the latest information regarding the 2008 new models.
    I was considering the purchase of a Sport Diesel Hatch, having owned two previous models I was rather disappointed with the equipment listed on each model.
    Only two models can have a sunroof this being the most expensive SL model saloon or estate.
    They are not producing a SL version in hatchback form.
    I also do not want leather trim but this is is standard fit in the SL models.
    Come on Mazda lets have more options like other manufacturers offer.
    This may cause me to look elsewhere for my next new car.
  • ifixpcsifixpcs Member Posts: 4
    "P0340 CMP sensor circuit malfunction ON 1 CCM" What exactly does this mean? I have changed several sensors on my '03 Mazda 6 (Camshaft position and Crankshaft position sensors) but I am still having the same problem. Can someone explain to me what the above statement means. Thanks abunch! :sick: :confuse: :(
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    We have a 2005 6S, 5 speed. 50,000 miles on the OEM Michelin's.
    Not so good in the snow we just had. I'm thinking of a second set of wheels with winter tires, I found some 17" 5 spoke OEM Alloy wheels for a Mazda 3 dirt cheap. I know they'll bolt on. But what about offset and any other concerns?
  • ifixpcsifixpcs Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know where the PCM is located on the 2003 Mazda 6 (4cyl.). I think I maybe having a problem with it but I don't know the location of it nor how to troubleshoot it. Any suggestions welcomed!! :(
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    Can't help with location or troubleshooting, but FYI, I just got a recall notice for the PCM in my '06 6i. Notice says that Mazda will "reprogram the PCM to include the latest calibration" to correct "improperly functioning on-board emission-related diagnostic system." Also offers a refund claim form for those who've had the PCM replaced at their own cost. This issue ostensibly only affects build dates 6/2/06 - 6/27/06, however.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    I haven't done it myself, but I know of a few other 6 owners that have done this, and it's pretty much a straight swap, since the 17" wheels for the 3 are slightly narrower than the 17" wheels on the 6.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    We currently have a 2003 VW Passat that is not inspiring me to think that it will last for the long haul, despite very close attention to maintenance.

    I just spent the last couple of hours reading through the last year or so of posts on this thread, and I've got some questions:

    1) Has Mazda cured the alignment issue with the car pulling to the right?

    2) Is the cloth upholsterly issue completely solved?

    3) Does the 2.3L engine match well to the automatic transmission?

    4) Brakes seem to be a recurrence topic here. Is this a resolved issue with the 6?

    5) Can members give me their real world mileage results with the 2.3 and the automatic? The new EPA numbers don't look that promising, but I know they're downgraded from the previous formula. (As a side note, I drive alot of suburban miles and my long-term overall MPG tends to be 1 or 2 mpg over the city rating, regardless of the car. I have always beat the EPA highway mileage on longer trips greater than, say, 1 hour on the interstates.)

    6) Give me your opinion - is this a car that will last 10 years and/or 150,000 miles?

    Thanks!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    1) Has Mazda cured the alignment issue with the car pulling to the right?

    Mazda has released a TSB concerning this issue, which from what I've heard has solved the problem. My '04 has never had this issue.

    2) Is the cloth upholsterly issue completely solved?

    It has with the '06 interior redesign. My '04 has shown significant wear with only 60K miles, but the materials (and quality) were changed for '06, and I haven't heard any major issues (or repeating occurrences) with the newer cloth.

    3) Does the 2.3L engine match well to the automatic transmission?

    Not for me. Then again, I bought the V6 with 5-speed manual for a reason. :)

    My brother-in-law has the 2.3 with auto, and he says the power is fine for his commute (both highway and two-lane).

    4) Brakes seem to be a recurrence topic here. Is this a resolved issue with the 6?

    IMO they're more of a hit-and-miss item with the 6, meaning that they only happen to the vast minority of owners. My brakes are still original after 60K miles, and my brother-in-law with similar mileage has had new pads, but that's it.

    6) Give me your opinion - is this a car that will last 10 years and/or 150,000 miles?

    Compared to the VW, absolutely! :P

    After close to four years and 60K miles, I still have no rattles or any major issues. I've only had my gas cap replaced under warranty, but that's it. I'm hoping to get over 100K miles myself, and I'm well on my way...

    Hope this helps.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Thanks for your speedy reply!

    I'm happy to hear that some of these problems have been addressed.

    Here's a couple more for you:

    1) How's the front leg room? We have a '97 Accord and I had always wished the thing had one more notch of seat (fore to aft) travel. Same with our old '91 Protege. Truthfully, in the Passat, I can barely reach the accelerator if the seat is all the way back - it's very roomy in front. I'm pretty lanky at 6'2" with a 34 inseam.

    2) My wife has a troublesome back. How are the seats, your opinion? Does the lumbar support actually hit your lumbar, so to speak?

    3) What kind of mileage does your borther-in-law get?

    4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?

    5) So....who bought first, you or your B-I-L? :)

    I drive like my kid's grandma, so I don't think the power issue will be a concern. I don't get the sense that the 4 banger will get in its own way on the interstate. Gotta go with the automatic to preserve marital bliss.

    With the '09's going into production shortly with the total redesign, I'm thinking I can get a reasonable deal on a 6i. I see a red Grand Touring at about $25,800 or so at a local dealer. Should be interesting to see what it will go for...

    Thanks again!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'll jump in here too...

    I did not have any alignment problems, but the tracking is very sensitive. I sometimes feel too much correcting is needed on the freeway and that it is overly sensitive to any slope in road (on crowned roads, for example). I guess that is the trade-off for the sporty handling. My wife's Jetta has much more stable tracking.

    I'm shorter than you 5'11', but do wear 34 inch inseam (33 would actually fit better, but are a rare find). I have plenty of leg room.

    The seats are very comfortable for me. In most cars the lumbar does not hit my lumbar and as a result I have that all the way "off". In the 6, the height of lumbar is right for me (most hit too low), so I do dial in a bit of lumbar.

    I have 4 cyl automatic. I have gotten about 32 mpg on the freeway, typically I drive around 70-75 mph. In my suburban commute I typically get somewhere between the old city and highway numbers in any vehicle. The Mazda 6 is no different and I I've gotten 24-26.

    I find that the 4 cyl is has adequate power for me and I am not a particularly sedate driver.

    I have only 8000 miles on mine, so don't have anything to say about your longevity related questions. I also do not have (or desire) leather, so no comments on that either.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Thanks for your comments! I've got leather now, but I could easily live without it - just one more maintenance item. I'm keeping my options open, however, since I'm not sure what I'm going with.

    The Grand Touring has some features that I would like, particularly the HID lights, but it's a "want" not a "need."

    Well, I gotta get out there and sit and drive one of these cars. Any other comments would be welcome!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    1) How's the front leg room?

    Not stellar, but not bad either. I'm similar in size to you, and I fit comfortably with the seat pushed all the way back. In my wife's '07 Altima, the seat has to be forward slightly for me to comfortably reach the pedals, so front legroom in the 6 isn't class-leading, but it works for me.

    2) My wife has a troublesome back. How are the seats, your opinion? Does the lumbar support actually hit your lumbar, so to speak?

    I'll agree with jeffyscott here, the seats are firm but comfortable, and the lumbar support works for me as well. Remember that I've got a '04, and the seats were revised with the newer cloth in '06. Unfortunately, I haven't taken any long trips in a '06-up model to give you a better opinion.

    3) What kind of mileage does your borther-in-law get?

    I believe he gets high-20s in city driving, 32-33 MPG on the highway, and he averages about 29-30 on his commute.

    4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?

    No big issues that I'm aware of. Leather is actually fairly comfortable in the 6. As you said, not MB quality, but very durable, especially when it's maintained.

    5) So....who bought first, you or your B-I-L?

    Funny story... I'd been looking at the 6 since spring of '04, but I couldn't buy it until August due to my financial situation. My B-I-L came with me on a test-drive in early July, and was very impressed, but wasn't actively looking for a new car at the time. Anyway, I finally bought my 6 in mid-August, but I couldn't take delivery until the end of the month due to them getting the exact car from a dealer in another state, as well as me being out-of-town for a week. While I was gone, my B-I-L, on a whim, went and bought his 6, and took delivery two days before I did!

    The worst part? He thought I was getting blue, so he picked out Steel Gray, which was the color car that we test-drove, and the color I picked out a week earlier! :)

    Parked next to each other, they actually don't look too similar, since he has the gray interior, 4-cyl with auto, and no sport package, while I've got the black interior, V6 with 5-speed, and the sport package. (Back in '04, the difference between the sport and non-sport cars was night and day.)

    Good luck with whatever you decide. :shades:
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Thanks again for your observations and opinions. I'll post back when we make a decision.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    1) How's the front leg room?

    Not stellar, but not bad either. I'm similar in size to you, and I fit comfortably with the seat pushed all the way back. In my wife's '07 Altima, the seat has to be forward slightly for me to comfortably reach the pedals, so front legroom in the 6 isn't class-leading, but it works for me.

    In my 2003 6s, if I push all the way back, I cannot reach the pedals and I am a 5'11" and wear 34x32" pants.

    4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?

    No big issues that I'm aware of. Leather is actually fairly comfortable in the 6. As you said, not MB quality, but very durable, especially when it's maintained.

    Ditto. In fact, it needs very little maintenance. It comes coated with some slick topcoat that seems to resist any stuff sticking to it.

    MB quality? well I sat in my friends ML320 and the leather wasn't exactly all that great. $ for $, the Mazda6 has better leather.

    I have my 6s since July 2003 and got 67K on it. Any issues? had regular warrantable issues. No issues yet after it ran out of warranty at 50K. No creaks/rattles. Drives like it did when brand new.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Anyone changed the rear pads on a 6? The tire store tells me they are getting worn. I've done the front and rears on our previous car, 99 Acura CL. The only tough part was the fact the calipers are used as the parking brakes, which makes it a little harder to retract the pistons. Any advice on doing the rear brakes on the 6? 2005 S 5 speed it it matters. Thanks...
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    I bought an 07 with the Sport package, automatic with the 4. I got 27.3 mpg my first tank. I find the power to be adequate.The car has plenty of power on the interstate. My car also has the low emissions engine. I like manuals, however I decided to go with an automatic for this purchase.

    Will the car last 150,000? I would think easily if taken care of. I have a 95 MX-6 with 200,500 miles and the car runs like new.

    The build quality on this car is top notch.
  • rdawgrdawg Member Posts: 15
    I've been real happy with my 07 6i, I've had it since spring with 8000 minles on it.

    I think the seats are comfortable and with the power adjust drivers seat, there is a lot of flexibility in seat adjustment. I don't keep the seat all the way back and I am 6' tall, but the back seat is a little tight when my kids are sitting back there, more from the front seat back angle, hopefully the '09 will help with that. I have the cloth and it has held up so far. The carpet on the floor hump in the back has a few chunks of pile missing though from the kids getting in and out, the carpet could be better.

    My biggest complaint is that when I press on the brake, the ball of my foot is on the brake pedal and my toes are on the support arm, so I am putting the brakes on by pressing on the arm and pedal which I don't like. I have a size 12 shoe, maybe that is the issue, but I didn't notice it when I test drove the car and I've never had that issue with any other cars. I've tried moving the seat around to see if I'm too close, but it still happens. If the support arm angles back further it wouldn't be a problem.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    I've got a 6i and had since Aug with about 4000 miles on it. I don't have any problem with the brake pedal and I wear size 11. I think the interior is pretty nicely done as far as quality. The only "cheap plastic" I notice is in the cover on the storage compartment on the top of the dash and the sunglass holder. Just seems like it either could break easily if one is not careful. It's nice to have the storage but it does force me put my GPS unit further away from me unless I block access to the storage compartment. I like the brakes, steering and overall handling. Another thing I noticed the other day is that, even at speed, when you use the windshield washer spray it doesn't stream down either side window. Every other car I've had did that and I hated it. Just another nice thing I've noticed about the Mazda6 that I think is well designed.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    My biggest complaint is that when I press on the brake, the ball of my foot is on the brake pedal and my toes are on the support arm, so I am putting the brakes on by pressing on the arm and pedal which I don't like.

    Why are you pressing the brake pedal with the ball of your foot? It is usually pressed with the part of the foot closer to the toes.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Why are you pressing the brake pedal with the ball of your foot? It is usually pressed with the part of the foot closer to the toes.

    Size 12 pretty much explains it.
  • rdawgrdawg Member Posts: 15
    I just rotate my foot on my heel from the gas to press the brake and that's where it hits my foot rather than the toes. I'd have to pick my foot up to press the pedal with my toes, not too easy when you are trying to hit the brake. Could just be a habit from driving manual transmission cars all of my life. It's just something I noticed, that hasn't happened on other cars I've owned.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    My definition of the "ball" of my foot is the part closer to the toes?
  • rdawgrdawg Member Posts: 15
    correct. I took a closer look at it and noticed the brake support arm comes off the top right side brake pedal and angles toward the gas pedal, which puts it in the path of the top of my foot, compared to my Honda Civic and Pilot that has the arm centered on the pedal so it doesn't get in the way.

    It's still a lot of fun to drive, I try to keep the gas pedal down most of the time and use the manual shift mode to slow down when people get in my way!
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Learn left foot braking. Your left foot isn't doing anything anyway.
  • rdawgrdawg Member Posts: 15
    I'm not old enough to be doing that yet. Maybe some day when I'm driving a Crown Vic I can drive with 2 feet and ride the brakes all over town.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Learn left foot braking. Your left foot isn't doing anything anyway.

    I'm not old enough to be doing that yet. Maybe some day when I'm driving a Crown Vic I can drive with 2 feet and ride the brakes all over town.

    It's also illegal (in most states), and a very bad driving practice in general.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The only time I "brake" with my left foot is when my left foot thinks I'm driving a manual tranny. That does not have the desired result. :P
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I changed all my pads and rotors this past summer and they weren't difficult.

    The parking brake isn't a problem, you simply release one end of the spring from the acutator, then everything is free to move.

    If you need to replace rotors, be prepared to wrestle with the rotor screws (2 per), I had trouble with those. The right way to remove them is with an impact screwdriver, but I was only able to get two off that way. I drilled out the others and did not replace them.

    I replaced all my pads with Bendix ceramics, and although they sometimes make a bit of noise and don't bite hard until warmed up, I'm happy with them. They don't generate nearly as much dust as the OEM pads and it's lighter in color so I'm not having to constantly clean my wheels.

    If you want to see a nice step-by-step howto with pics for this job, there is one on a Mazda6 enthusiast site you could probably find easily.

    Good luck.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    You are running out of feet. Right foot gets tangled up and you don't want to use your left. Just the e-brake left.
  • vlad4vlad4 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought recently Mazda6 2004 and notice a noise from time to time from a fuel pump . I don't want to replace fuel pump its about $500. Any idea for how long I can run on noisy fuel pump?
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    can someone please explain how to get to the light bulbs in the front driver side of a 2004 mazda6? The airfilter box is in the way. Do I have to remove it to change a bulb? Thanks for your help
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    I find it hard to believe that nobody knows how to get to the lights on the left front of this car. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You have to be able access the black plastic cover in back of the headlights,so as to unclip it (carefully), ---so if you need to remove the air box, or go in from the left wheel inner fender liner, in order to get your hands on the back of the headlights, then that's what you have to do. Modern cars are notorious for bad access to the front lights.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    Thank you for the response. I thought the filter box would have to come out, but was praying that there was an easier way. I got to black box open, just couldn't get to the bulb. Gotta to love these guys who design these cars. Again, Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sometimes a pair of needle nose pliers can go where human fingers cannot.
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