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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jacato13jacato13 Member Posts: 2
    Recently I have been having issues with my '04 Mazda6 not starting......I put the key in and the car turns over, but then completely cuts out. The lights and radio still work fine, but the car won't start....so I try again and again, and finally get it to start. I am going to go get my battery checked to see if maybe that is the issue. Has anyone else experienced this? It does not make the clicking noises like some of the other posts and the needles do not go haywire either.....
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    It does not make the clicking noises like some of the other posts and the needles do not go haywire either.....

    That's because it's probably not the battery. The fact that it turns over indicates you have juice. Does the engine actually start and die or does the starter just abruptly stop turning without the engine ever starting?
  • kilowattsonkilowattson Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2006 Mazda 6 last year in October sometime and it's starting to have problems.

    First my key fobs only briefly worked...then they just went kaput. I've tried manually reprogramming them with no success so far.

    Then about a month or so ago my check engine light came on. Went and had it checked at AutoZone and it was a gas cap issue. Tightened it and all was well. Except when I went to fill up. Every time I fill up I have to rev the engine as I'm cranking or else it won't start...and even then it idles really rough until I'm able to get on the road and back up to speed. After that all is well until I have to fill up again.

    Then yesterday my check engine light came on again. I take it back to AutoZone after checking the gas cap and I get the same code again...I buy a replacement cap to see if that helps and I'll know in a few days.

    However my issues were EXACTLY what another poster described back in October:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef12ce7/2373

    I mean...to a T...exactly what he said. Is this a common issue and what's the deal?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    is it the V6 or the 4 cylinder?
  • jacato13jacato13 Member Posts: 2
    I had the battery and the starter checked and the mechanic said both seem to be fine.........it acts exactly as though the car is going to start---makes the initial start-up noises, etc, but then completely cuts out. I have spoken to a few mechanics and no one can give me an answer until it either happens there or if the car breaks down completely :confuse: If anyone has any info that might help, please let me know!
  • kilowattsonkilowattson Member Posts: 3
    4 cylinder
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    makes me think the fuel pump or the fuel line has some sort of problem.....
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    I just played chicken with my fuel tank and lost. My low fuel light was indicating it was going on with around four gallons left in the tank. This has been pretty consistent. Yesterday I ran out of gas. AAA provided me a gallon and I drove 2.5 miles to a station. The car took 15.782 gallons.

    I tried to squeeze in more fuel verse my normal fill.I went past the first pump shut off and it did not want to take much more; shutting off pretty quickly. So how can Mazda list the car has an 18 gallon fuel tank is beyond me.Is anyone else out there run their tank down low and been able to squeeze 17 or more gallons in the tank?

    From what I can see this fuel system holds around 16.5 gallons.

    I'm actually glad I ran out of fuel; now I know what my car holds and it confirmed my low fuel light goes on with about two gallons left in the system. By the way I check my fuel mileage every tank and I should have had fuel in the tank based on getting two miles per gallon less verse what I have been actually getting.
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    Hi All-
    Appreciate any feedback you can give. Just dropped my '07 Mazda 6 Wagon off for service. I told the tech that I had been feeling vibration on braking from highway speeds. I bought it certified 11/07 with 1500 miles and put about 8400 miles on it since then to currently 9800

    1) The dealer just called me asking if I ever had the car towed. I said no
    2) Service Mgr called me back and said they found both CV Boots "punctured" and leaking grease onto the brakes
    3) They said Mazda wont cover this.
    4) I reviewed the history of the vehicle (bought certified from them in '07), garaged, baby it etc and swore never towed.
    5) He says he cant get his Mazda rep on the phone today- but that both Axles need to be replaced; they dont mess with just the boots.
    6) I told him unacceptable; he is checking with his operations manager and will call me back.

    Any thoughts appreciated. I barely drive this car as I travel alot. Its garaged or sitting in my driveway. It seems unusual that both boots would be punctured.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    First the CV Boots- It is quite unusual for the boots to be damaged at such low mileage. Road hazard or towing are the most likely cause for CV boot being torn at such a low mileage. What I'm wondering is how did the car arrive at the dealer before you purchased it? Was it transported and were J-hooks used to pull the car on to the trailer/flatbed/transporter or to secure the car during transportation?

    Damaged CV boots will not be covered by Mazda on a warranty submission so this is going to be a difficult situation to resolve.

    Now for the vibration- I expect that your rotors are warped. The rotors will need to be turned and the cost be covered under the warranty. You may need to make the case that the rotors being warped is due to defective rotors and not wear and tear.

    Good luck. Let us know the outcome.
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    Ok, here's the deal. The service manager called me back. We argued for about 30 minutes. I pleaded my case; low mileage. baby the vehicle, never towed. Here is the kicker; I asked the same question you posed; how did the vehicle arrive at your dealership? He could not answer it; but after agreeing that we need to come to a solution and that I put my faith in his dealership when I made the deal back in Nov as a certified vehicle; I recommended we come up with a plan and that he speak to sales and to his boss. He said he was going to speak to his "operations manager". He called me back again about an hour later and said they were going to cover new front axles, rotors and pads under warranty. That they dont mess with just the cv boots. The grease from the "punctured" cv boots ruined the pads and rotors. So, all in all it may turn out well. They seem to be doing everything possible to make this a win/win. It will be mon or tues before they get the parts. They gave me a loaner- I'll let you know how it turns out.
    Thanks
    -Larry
    Lg2207
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    It is nice to hear of a good resolution to your lousy situation. I'm sure if you had to cover the cost of the repairs you would have negative view of Mazda dealer if not Mazda.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    Awesome.

    Mazda Customer service, imo, is very good. Bad customer service is one thing I have never experienced in my 9 years of Mazda ownership. Any problems, if you make a good enough case, will be taken care of.
  • ifranksifranks Member Posts: 5
    I have a six cylinder automatic with 70K on the clock. No major problems up till now. It started OK but as I drove off it seemed to lose power but didnt quite shut off. It picked up again and now seems OK.
    I recollect similar stories on this board and solutions like changing battery didn't seem to fix the problem.
    Does anyone have a solution I can tell my service mechanic. Its difficult when this is an intermittent problem and would not happen when I take it in to the shop.
    Thanks!
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    check the throttle body

    http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/2135.pdf

    DESCRIPTION
    Some vehicles may experience a MIL illumination with DTC P2135 stored in memory.
    Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.

    REPAIR PROCEDURE
    1. Verify DTC P2135 is stored in memory.
    2. Open hood and locate throttle body.
    3. Inspect letters on throttle body as shown below.

    If letters "AA", "AB", or "BA" are found on the throttle body, proceed to Step 4.

    If letters "BB" is found on the throttle body, troubleshoot DTC according to the Workshop Manual.

    4. Record customer's preset radio stations.
    5. Disconnect negative battery cable.
    6. Replace throttle body according to Workshop Manual (section 01-13 []INTAKE AIR SYSTEM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION AJ).
    7. Reconnect negative battery cable.
    8. Erase DTC.
    9. Re-enter customer's preset radio stations.
    10. Verify repair.

    PART(S) INFORMATION

    AJTT-13-640
    "BB" Marking = Good Part
  • ifranksifranks Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the swift reply. I will take this to Mazda Service.
    One question. Can you tell me what the "MIL illumination with DTC P2135 stored in memory" actually means?
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    that means check engine light :shades:
  • hermaxxhermaxx Member Posts: 6
    I had the same isssue with our '06 with the V6 and 6-speed auto. The dealer I took it to replaced the transmission under warranty....no questions asked. He simply had to call Mazda for approval. I spoke with the tech and he said "Oh yeah, we do about about one of these every month". This is in a city of about 60,000 population....indeed, this does not exactly fill me with confidence.
  • kaiserhead6kaiserhead6 Member Posts: 4
    They also replaced my transmission under warranty. Apparently, the pre-February 2006s have this problem, the cause was corrected in later production of the transmission by AISIN (Toyota). This transmission is a new design that is also used in many different cars for most car companies. I haven't heard any other reports of failures.

    I do find the transmission clunky and inconsistent, apparently this is due to its programming by Mazda. Too bad, if the car was manual, I'd probably keep it till it dies.
  • newsoulnewsoul Member Posts: 1
    I have an 06 Mazda 6 with 39,000 miles on it. Ever since I got it from time to time when I press the gas and try to accelerate, it kind of takes off slowly, then jumps before it gets up to speed. Now it has started to act like it doesn't want to move sometimes when I press the gas. I will be in the middle of driving, and then all of a sudden the car sounds like it is reving up but moving slow. Almost like it is stuck in neutral or something. It happened twice after getting off the highway when I tried to take off after slowing down for a stoplight. I took it to the Mazda dealership today, and they found nothing wrong with the transmission or engine. They said other Mazda owners have complained about the same thing. He explained to me that the computer in my engine needed to be recalibrated. This is what it says on my receipt..."reflash completed". Now I am still under warranty, so it cost nothing, but on the way home from the dealership it did the same thing it was doing before. I called the guy and he said I shouldn't worry because everything checked out on the diagnostic machine. Should I just let this go, or insist that they figure out what is wrong with the car? I guess if it dosen't do it anymore, I won't worry, but I am concerned about this becoming a common occurance since this happened twice in one week. I mean, what if I am on the highway, and it stops accelerating? That's scary! Anyone with advice or similar problems please advise. Thanks.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I just bought the 2009 Mazda 6, I usually do the oil changes myself. I was looking at the engine compartment and the filter does not look like a standard filter. Is it one of those paper filters that has a metal housing? Can you only buy it from Mazda? Has anyone already changed the oil on their 2009 Mazda 6 with the 2.5L engine?
    Also I am planning to immediately switch it to synthetic oil with my first oil change.
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    The 2.3 liter engine in the previous model used a cartridge filter.There is a good chance this engine uses that type of filter also.
  • riswami1riswami1 Member Posts: 33
    i just went onto NAPA Online. The 2.5 has the same filter as the 2.3. You have a cartridge filter. Pep Boys also carries filters for these engines.
  • b75b75 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    My father has a 2004 Mazda 6 wagon. When he puts the (manual) transmission in reverse, the reverse lights won't come on. He's tried the bulbs but they're fine and suspects the switch on the stick shift might be the problem. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be and how to fix it? My father's very handy and likes to fix things himself.

    I'd appreciate any help before he starts tearing his car apart!

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    The switch is probably mounted on the transaxle case, I haven't spotted mine during routine maintenance but it's probably buried. Shifter mounted switches are sort of old-school.
  • albatross1albatross1 Member Posts: 1
    Newsoul,
    I too, have a Mazda 6 Tamura which only a year old and I`ve only owned it for two weeks and it appears to have very similar problems to yours. It`s fine when it`s cold, but as soon as it warms up, it`s difficult to move off in first gear smoothly as it will have a sudden jerk after a `flat spot` type symtom. Also, the engine sometimes goes into a `sleep type` mode when pressing the accelerator has no effect until you change gear and `wake it up`, so to speak.
    Have you had any replies to your article above as I would be very interested to hear them.
    Albatross1
  • cac4cac4 Member Posts: 11
    Hello I searched and didnt see any questions with this problem. I have a 03' mazda 6 and for some reason the key will not open the door locks. The key is the main key and does open the trunk and starts the car. I checked the 2 door lock fuses and they are fine. The key fob works fine. I a not sure if I have to reprogram anything??
    Thanks for any help. :D
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    '05 6i with 61K mi. When I start to move or come to a stop, there is a slight movement feel in the steering wheel as if its moving forward/back with the car motion. Not much movement, just enough to feel it. The service manager drove it and felt it, but can't say what's causing it. They said maybe the its the rack (probably would have replaced it if warranty hadn't run out). Anybody else experience this?
  • mjmackymjmacky Member Posts: 2
    Looking to buy a 2004 Mazda6 with 120k miles. Asking price is 5,975. The mazda6 that he is selling should normally go for 8,500 dollars. Is this a safe buy or will the transmission die on me in the next year or so?. . .
  • JuSEJuSE Member Posts: 5
    Hi,...I have the same problems with my 2006 Mazda6. I see your post was put up quite some time ago but if you could give me any information you have gained that would be appreciated?..have the issues been resolved and what was done to fix the problems?
  • JuSEJuSE Member Posts: 5
    Sorry I dont have an answer for you problem but I own a '06 6i with low milage with the same issue too. If you get it fixed or have any further info please help.

    thanks.
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    I'm not sure if this is a fix yet, but I unlatched the tilt lever for the first time in three years and flexed the wheel up/down and in/out several times. Have not felt the movement problem since. See if this works for you too.
  • JuSEJuSE Member Posts: 5
    Anybody with a 2006 6i have any issues with the engine light staying on and the car not being able to start immediately after filling the gas tank?
  • kilowattsonkilowattson Member Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem and eventually took it to the dealership. They kept insisting it was bad gas, but I knew it wasn't. After they looked at it they determined that it was the solenoid/purge valve. Replaced it under warranty and all is right with the world again.

    This seems to be a very common problem with 2006 6's.

    Edit: This little thread on some other mazda forums kind of explains it in more detail:

    http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123696380
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I had a CEL on my 2007 during it's first year. It was also the purge valve. Never had starting problem, but I took it in a few days after the light first came on and it was taken care of right away..
  • anderson16anderson16 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, Albatross1,

    I have a '05 Mazda 6. And I have similar problem as yours. In the morning, the gear shift is not smooth. But, after driving about 5 or 10 minutes, everything becomes fine. Did you get any information about it?

    Anderson
  • Martin30bMartin30b Member Posts: 1
    hi... if u ever missed oil in yo car.. its most probably made your timing jump few theeth.. first check your cmp sensor.. simply check whit a voltmeter if u have current when u crank the engine or check the resistance of the cmp sensor its should be between 400 and 550 ohms.. if everithing ok... u could be sure 100 percent your timing is off and the po340 code comes on... if u have some drivability probelms like slight hesitations... u will have to retime the timing chain...

    take about 2 hours.. for me.... :)..

    to see if the timing is correct. u have to take out the valve cover.. align the rear of the cams whit the head. horisontally and on the crank shaft pulley u have a hole u have to align that hole whit the hole on the timing chain cover.. if it doesnt aling the chain have jumped.. and u need to realign it.........

    i just hope for u that it is not too late.. cause if u hear noise.. that could mean one of your rods are bent....

    good luck
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    5 speed transmission on 2009 Mazda6 2.5 I4 has a sudden jerk into 4th gear when the car is cold. Started noticing this as temperatures in Canada dropped below Zero Celsius. Once the car is warmed up, the transmission shifts smoothly, but it is those first couple of shifts into 4th gear in the morning that are really bad.
    I have started using the manumatic transmission to keep the car in 3rd gear until it has warmed up slightly.
    Should I be worried, or is this a known "Feature" of this transmission
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    Hi All-
    I have an -07 6S Wagon (6 cyl)
    Back in late November, I heard a loud tapping/ticking type noise coming from engine upon acceleration. Also a rattle upon accelerating at approx 35 mph between 4th and 5th gear had been happening the last two months. Later in week; all of the engine lights came on and stayed on. After re-starting the vehicle; just the CEL stayed on.

    Took it to the dealer. They said two problems were ocurring:
    1) DTC B1342 & U1900- they replaced the ABS module (under warranty)
    2) They verified the tapping/ticking noise and the rattle upon acceleration. They didnt indicate any codes- but did replace the cat/flex pipe.
    All of this under warranty.
    I still hear the tapping/ticking noise upon acceleration? It is louder at different times than others- most noticeably obviously at non- highway speeds. A mechanic friend of mine who owns an '06 6S also- says this is valve tapping; he uses synthetic oil with an additive every oil change to quiet it down Any thoughts? Is this still a Cat issue? Should I bring it back to the dealer (again)?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Just a guess... It's very hard to diagnose sounds on the forum. But I hope I'm wrong, because what your describing seems like the engine was under load while being starved for oil pressure for some reason, which eventually lead to the wear that caused valve tick and bearing noise. Synthetic oil and an additive may provide some temporary relief, but I don't think it sounds normal.

    I'm also wondering if this is a common concern that other 3.0 S-engined 6 owners have experienced.

    I'd bring it back to the dealer to check it again while it's still under warrantee. I wouldn't wait. Maybe even try a different dealer.
  • chriso5chriso5 Member Posts: 8
    I just noticed a possible issue with my 2009 I4. It was about the same temperature, 30-32 degrees F. Being really light on the acceleration in city driving as I usually am, I have noticed mine shifts up to 5th gear by ~ 36-40 mph on flat pavement. If there is a hill, the transmission will usually hold in 4th gear.
    Mine seemed smooth on the transition to 4th gear though.

    However, today (and I tried it multiple times) it did not shift into 5th until about 52 mph. One time it did along this stretch of flat road but several other times it did not.

    It is possible as most cars have that an adaptive algorithm is holding it in 4th that long? Or could it be a sensor or linkage due to the cold not allowing the up-shift as it usually had so readily? :confuse:
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    Yes I believe this is the adaptive algorithm at work. The shift points are not always consistent and vary all the time. If you drive in rush hour it shifts differently than when you are accelerating normally on an open road. And it tries to adjust between the different scenarios although the adjustment is not always immediate. I really do not like this technology and would prefer a transmission with fixed shift points.
  • MilwaukieMilwaukie Member Posts: 1
    The low beam lense is dirty or cloudy. Can it be cleaned?
  • chriso5chriso5 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks jkobty2, I sure hope that's what it is.

    I agree, I would prefer having a transmission without the adaptive feature. I would like to have switchable modes (economy, sport etc.). Heck, I am sure they could even throw in an variable control on the intensity of the modes.

    Now that I think about it, on that day I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a 6 lane road and had to stomp on the pedal going only about 15mph. It took about a 1/2 second for it to respond. Maybe that offset the algorithm.

    Does anyone know if there is anyway to reset the algorithm?
  • JuSEJuSE Member Posts: 5
    Hi again, anybody know why my 6's idling RPM ranges from 800-1800 and never runs at a consistant RMP?
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for your response. All Good News so far: I took back to the dealer in late January. The car spent three days there; the service manager said he didnt hear anything. When I went to pick it up; I drove it around the lot with the Manager; only heard it slightly; the tech who worked on it pulled up behind us and told us not to go crazy listening for it; he found a TSB (I am still waiting for the #) for people with similar problems; apparently; it is some valve (I'll get the details) that releases air/pressure that is right near or next to the firewall; with insufficient rubber on the gasket. They ordered the replacement part which is suppose to better insulate or control the noise coming from that valve or engine part. I'll let you know more details when it goes in next Monday for the warranty work.

    -Larry
  • vwtoddvwtodd Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking at a use '05 wagon and found this about he 3.0 V6 engine noise:

    Engine noise: A ticking noise from the 3.0L engine, often described as a lifter tick, requires the removal and reinstallation of the camshaft caps. (2003-05)

    Sound familiar?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
  • jimosujimosu Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone,
    Hoping that someone here can help me out or relate to my experience. I have a 2009 Mazda6 S (only 1,000 miles on it) and anytime the engine is running there is a very loud Whining noise which seems to be coming from the rear passenger side (fuel pump?) but I may be wrong about location its hard to tell. The sound is pretty annoying and totally detracts from the nice purr of the V6. Anyone else notice this in their 6 or any they have test driven? Dealer told me it was "normal engine noise" surprise surpise. I took it to Browning Mazda where I leased it from.

    Thanks for your help!
    - Jim
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    There is a whining noise upon startup when the pump is priming. That lasts about 2 seconds. If it persists, there has to be something else.
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