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That's because it's probably not the battery. The fact that it turns over indicates you have juice. Does the engine actually start and die or does the starter just abruptly stop turning without the engine ever starting?
First my key fobs only briefly worked...then they just went kaput. I've tried manually reprogramming them with no success so far.
Then about a month or so ago my check engine light came on. Went and had it checked at AutoZone and it was a gas cap issue. Tightened it and all was well. Except when I went to fill up. Every time I fill up I have to rev the engine as I'm cranking or else it won't start...and even then it idles really rough until I'm able to get on the road and back up to speed. After that all is well until I have to fill up again.
Then yesterday my check engine light came on again. I take it back to AutoZone after checking the gas cap and I get the same code again...I buy a replacement cap to see if that helps and I'll know in a few days.
However my issues were EXACTLY what another poster described back in October:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef12ce7/2373
I mean...to a T...exactly what he said. Is this a common issue and what's the deal?
I tried to squeeze in more fuel verse my normal fill.I went past the first pump shut off and it did not want to take much more; shutting off pretty quickly. So how can Mazda list the car has an 18 gallon fuel tank is beyond me.Is anyone else out there run their tank down low and been able to squeeze 17 or more gallons in the tank?
From what I can see this fuel system holds around 16.5 gallons.
I'm actually glad I ran out of fuel; now I know what my car holds and it confirmed my low fuel light goes on with about two gallons left in the system. By the way I check my fuel mileage every tank and I should have had fuel in the tank based on getting two miles per gallon less verse what I have been actually getting.
Appreciate any feedback you can give. Just dropped my '07 Mazda 6 Wagon off for service. I told the tech that I had been feeling vibration on braking from highway speeds. I bought it certified 11/07 with 1500 miles and put about 8400 miles on it since then to currently 9800
1) The dealer just called me asking if I ever had the car towed. I said no
2) Service Mgr called me back and said they found both CV Boots "punctured" and leaking grease onto the brakes
3) They said Mazda wont cover this.
4) I reviewed the history of the vehicle (bought certified from them in '07), garaged, baby it etc and swore never towed.
5) He says he cant get his Mazda rep on the phone today- but that both Axles need to be replaced; they dont mess with just the boots.
6) I told him unacceptable; he is checking with his operations manager and will call me back.
Any thoughts appreciated. I barely drive this car as I travel alot. Its garaged or sitting in my driveway. It seems unusual that both boots would be punctured.
Damaged CV boots will not be covered by Mazda on a warranty submission so this is going to be a difficult situation to resolve.
Now for the vibration- I expect that your rotors are warped. The rotors will need to be turned and the cost be covered under the warranty. You may need to make the case that the rotors being warped is due to defective rotors and not wear and tear.
Good luck. Let us know the outcome.
Thanks
-Larry
Lg2207
Mazda Customer service, imo, is very good. Bad customer service is one thing I have never experienced in my 9 years of Mazda ownership. Any problems, if you make a good enough case, will be taken care of.
I recollect similar stories on this board and solutions like changing battery didn't seem to fix the problem.
Does anyone have a solution I can tell my service mechanic. Its difficult when this is an intermittent problem and would not happen when I take it in to the shop.
Thanks!
http://www.mazda6tech.com/tsb/2135.pdf
DESCRIPTION
Some vehicles may experience a MIL illumination with DTC P2135 stored in memory.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify DTC P2135 is stored in memory.
2. Open hood and locate throttle body.
3. Inspect letters on throttle body as shown below.
If letters "AA", "AB", or "BA" are found on the throttle body, proceed to Step 4.
If letters "BB" is found on the throttle body, troubleshoot DTC according to the Workshop Manual.
4. Record customer's preset radio stations.
5. Disconnect negative battery cable.
6. Replace throttle body according to Workshop Manual (section 01-13 []INTAKE AIR SYSTEM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION AJ).
7. Reconnect negative battery cable.
8. Erase DTC.
9. Re-enter customer's preset radio stations.
10. Verify repair.
PART(S) INFORMATION
AJTT-13-640
"BB" Marking = Good Part
One question. Can you tell me what the "MIL illumination with DTC P2135 stored in memory" actually means?
I do find the transmission clunky and inconsistent, apparently this is due to its programming by Mazda. Too bad, if the car was manual, I'd probably keep it till it dies.
Also I am planning to immediately switch it to synthetic oil with my first oil change.
My father has a 2004 Mazda 6 wagon. When he puts the (manual) transmission in reverse, the reverse lights won't come on. He's tried the bulbs but they're fine and suspects the switch on the stick shift might be the problem. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be and how to fix it? My father's very handy and likes to fix things himself.
I'd appreciate any help before he starts tearing his car apart!
Thanks,
Mark
I too, have a Mazda 6 Tamura which only a year old and I`ve only owned it for two weeks and it appears to have very similar problems to yours. It`s fine when it`s cold, but as soon as it warms up, it`s difficult to move off in first gear smoothly as it will have a sudden jerk after a `flat spot` type symtom. Also, the engine sometimes goes into a `sleep type` mode when pressing the accelerator has no effect until you change gear and `wake it up`, so to speak.
Have you had any replies to your article above as I would be very interested to hear them.
Albatross1
Thanks for any help.
thanks.
This seems to be a very common problem with 2006 6's.
Edit: This little thread on some other mazda forums kind of explains it in more detail:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123696380
I have a '05 Mazda 6. And I have similar problem as yours. In the morning, the gear shift is not smooth. But, after driving about 5 or 10 minutes, everything becomes fine. Did you get any information about it?
Anderson
take about 2 hours.. for me.... ..
to see if the timing is correct. u have to take out the valve cover.. align the rear of the cams whit the head. horisontally and on the crank shaft pulley u have a hole u have to align that hole whit the hole on the timing chain cover.. if it doesnt aling the chain have jumped.. and u need to realign it.........
i just hope for u that it is not too late.. cause if u hear noise.. that could mean one of your rods are bent....
good luck
I have started using the manumatic transmission to keep the car in 3rd gear until it has warmed up slightly.
Should I be worried, or is this a known "Feature" of this transmission
I have an -07 6S Wagon (6 cyl)
Back in late November, I heard a loud tapping/ticking type noise coming from engine upon acceleration. Also a rattle upon accelerating at approx 35 mph between 4th and 5th gear had been happening the last two months. Later in week; all of the engine lights came on and stayed on. After re-starting the vehicle; just the CEL stayed on.
Took it to the dealer. They said two problems were ocurring:
1) DTC B1342 & U1900- they replaced the ABS module (under warranty)
2) They verified the tapping/ticking noise and the rattle upon acceleration. They didnt indicate any codes- but did replace the cat/flex pipe.
All of this under warranty.
I still hear the tapping/ticking noise upon acceleration? It is louder at different times than others- most noticeably obviously at non- highway speeds. A mechanic friend of mine who owns an '06 6S also- says this is valve tapping; he uses synthetic oil with an additive every oil change to quiet it down Any thoughts? Is this still a Cat issue? Should I bring it back to the dealer (again)?
I'm also wondering if this is a common concern that other 3.0 S-engined 6 owners have experienced.
I'd bring it back to the dealer to check it again while it's still under warrantee. I wouldn't wait. Maybe even try a different dealer.
Mine seemed smooth on the transition to 4th gear though.
However, today (and I tried it multiple times) it did not shift into 5th until about 52 mph. One time it did along this stretch of flat road but several other times it did not.
It is possible as most cars have that an adaptive algorithm is holding it in 4th that long? Or could it be a sensor or linkage due to the cold not allowing the up-shift as it usually had so readily? :confuse:
I agree, I would prefer having a transmission without the adaptive feature. I would like to have switchable modes (economy, sport etc.). Heck, I am sure they could even throw in an variable control on the intensity of the modes.
Now that I think about it, on that day I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a 6 lane road and had to stomp on the pedal going only about 15mph. It took about a 1/2 second for it to respond. Maybe that offset the algorithm.
Does anyone know if there is anyway to reset the algorithm?
-Larry
Engine noise: A ticking noise from the 3.0L engine, often described as a lifter tick, requires the removal and reinstallation of the camshaft caps. (2003-05)
Sound familiar?
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda6/bulletin/01-031-07-1835.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda6/bulletin/01-012-07-1787a.pdf
I also have the V6, and on my car I can barely hear the tick, when in my enclosed garage.
Hoping that someone here can help me out or relate to my experience. I have a 2009 Mazda6 S (only 1,000 miles on it) and anytime the engine is running there is a very loud Whining noise which seems to be coming from the rear passenger side (fuel pump?) but I may be wrong about location its hard to tell. The sound is pretty annoying and totally detracts from the nice purr of the V6. Anyone else notice this in their 6 or any they have test driven? Dealer told me it was "normal engine noise" surprise surpise. I took it to Browning Mazda where I leased it from.
Thanks for your help!
- Jim