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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kaiserhead6kaiserhead6 Member Posts: 4
    They changed the transmission, apparently some pre-February 2006 cars had a manufacturing defect. There's a TSB for it.
  • artemis88artemis88 Member Posts: 3
    it was me that had a problem with my car not starting on hot days. i've taken it to the dealership so many times and they still have not found a fix for it. pretty much, their repsonse is 'they can't replicate' so too bad.
  • amie1amie1 Member Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem...My engine light came on in my 2003 Mazda 6 (manual v6) just when I needed an inspection for plate renewal, of course. Took it to the dealer, where my car spent almost a month and about a thousand dollars, which would be no huge deal except the light was still on. They said they had no clue what was wrong.
    Next I took it to another place (not a dealer) where they informed me of a service bullatin out about the throddle body on my car being bad.
    Took my car to a different dealer where they informed me nothing about this problem even when I directly asked. My car was in and out of the shop for a week and a half (fixing many other "possible problems"), where it cost me a couple of thousands of dollars. Ultimately, they ended up replacing the throddle body in my car, problem fixed finally. Oh, I forgot to tell say that, somehow, the last time I brought my car home after the flipping light went off finally, I now had an anti-freeze leak and had to take it right back that same evening for another $600 dollar repair. I also failed to mention the cost for fixing all of the tickets for expired plates...
  • ambrosiaambrosia Member Posts: 11
    I was hauling some very long items in the back seat of my 09 Mazda6 and inadvertently punctured the driver's side rear door panel. Its a small tear but its noticeable as the door panel is black and the white material behind it is visible.

    Can this be repaired or will that panel have to be replaced? Does anyone know the cost to replace the panel and if this is something that I can do myself or if I will have to get it done by a professional? Its a small thing but I can't stand my new car looking banged up.
  • mocrediblemocredible Member Posts: 1
    Okay, my check engine light came on after trying to accelerate. The car began to hessitate. I got a read out, and its the ignition coil that supposebly needs to be replaced, its cyclinder number 4. Im trying to do this myself. I had the same issue before, and replaced it at the front of the engine.

    I need to know which cylinder #4 would be? If it is located at the back of the engine, would this be difficult to do by myself? Taking off the intake manifold?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • shundishundi Member Posts: 1
    AH! I joined JUST to tell you the solution to this (I realize it's an old post)

    Under your car, right up near the radiator under the oil pan there's a thin piece of black plastic (aerodynamic something) with bolts that perpetually come lose and cause the piece of plastic to vibrate at speeds around 75-80.

    Hope this helps!!

    S.
  • oldcableguyoldcableguy Member Posts: 1
    Will these snow tires (P205/55/R16) winter tires from a Mazda 3 fit a 2009 Mazda 6 with 17 inch wheels. I understand this will impact speedometer accurracy but the affordibility is making them look attractive.
  • alw24fanalw24fan Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone recommend some tires for this car. I am considering the Michelin Primacy MXV4. I am just now replacing the OEM tires that are on this car. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Will any winter driving be involved? What size wheel do you currently have? Is your driving style aggressive or more relaxed?

    Any more info would help, since there are literally hundreds of choices for this car.
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    I strongly recommend Nexen N2000 tires. I've had them for 30K mi so far, replaced the OEM Michelins from 2005. Dramatically better handling, and about 1/3 the cost if purchased on-line.
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    I have General Exclaim UHP''s. These are an excellent tire for the price. Stick like glue wet or dry. Summer tire, not for snow.
    I have Blizzaks on Mazda 3 Alloys for winter. Also a great tire. No need for an SUV or 4WD, just get a good set of winter tires. I can drive like it's summer
  • mazhatermazhater Member Posts: 1
    Anyone having A/C problems? I turned mine on for the first time and got sprayed with water. The center of the dashboard gets soaked with condensation. Dealership didn't have a clue.
  • mazada6mjsmazada6mjs Member Posts: 1
    during the nor'eastern flood here in norfolk, va, my 05 Mazda 6i was flooded to mid-bumper. During the flood, something happened electrically where it made the left turn signal stay on thus drained the battery. It wont start, took the battery to Advanced Auto they recharged it, reinstalled now electrically seemed fine, and when trying to start the engine won't roll over. So, after a couple hours later, battery still in, I noticed the rear signal light was back on, so i just unplugged the battery. any clues?? ps. i checked the air filter and its good.
  • bear26bear26 Member Posts: 12
    Hi,

    I just bought a 2010 Mazda 6 yesterday. Last night I discovered that the trunk was/is leaking where the jack is. Oddly enough, this EXACT same issue happened on my previous 2006 Altima. So I need to take it back to the dealer today for them to look at it. Needless to say I'm not very happy....we'll see what happens....
  • plai4plai4 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if there is a way to manually close the moonroof. Mine was open on tilt. Pushed the button to close it and slid all the way open. It will not do anything now, but click. Please help!!!!! I froze on my way home from work.
  • kmcapkmcap Member Posts: 1
    Hello!
    I'm new here. I believe my switch assembly for low/high beams, directional, and wipers needs to be replaced. My entire left headlight unit is out and only the fog light and side yellow/orange light on the right side work. I thought I could bypass having to call my dad and checked all the fuses, but they are all fine. Being a mechanic himself my dad seems to think it's the switch assembly. Most likely he is correct....

    I have two questions:

    1. Has anyone else had this issue?

    2. Do you know where I can find a diagram that willl illustrate how to remove and replace the assembly? I found the assembly itself at auto parts warehouse.

    Also, please let me know if I should post this in another section.

    Thanks for your help!

    -K
  • gundamr6gundamr6 Member Posts: 1
    Do you remember the code number they gave you?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I made a few more observations regarding the slight knock at idle that I am getting.
    The knock intensity varies from day to day. On humid and rainy days it is almost eliminated completely. The drier the weather the more pronounced it is.
    Also as you step on the gas it disappears, so to me this means it is not related to any real malfunction in the car such as bad bearings or valves or anything of the sort. I think it is basically a fuel combustion issue. It is what is called detonation, and I know that moisture (Water vapor) reduces detonation. The reason might be fuel injector related, spark plug related, or simply because the car is tuned by Mazda to run too lean at idle. This means not enough gas is being pumped into the engine at low rpm.
    Now I plan to replace the plugs, but is there also a way I can somehow increase the fuel delivery at idle, such as a fuel pressure regulator, or is it all controlled by the ECU these days?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You wouldn't get denotation at idle, though. That's strictly an engine-load related problem.

    Piston slap is a possibility, as this can be due strictly to the use of a short-skirted piston. Some new cars exhibit this. GM and Subaru products have had this "problem" (which is really harmless in this case). One gets better combustion on humid/wet days, so that would drive the piston a bit harder.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I am familiar with piston slap, that sound usually occurs when starting a cold engine and persists for about a minute or less, then as the pistons expand, the sound disappears.
    What I am experiencing is exactly the opposite. The engine is very smooth when cold, The sounds I am talking about do not start till the engine has warmed up completely. The engine stays smooth until it reaches the full operating temperature (temperature gauge in the middle). After the engine is fully warmed up, then it starts exhibiting the knock sound at idle, and a slight tapping sound on very light accelerating. Above 2000 rpm it runs just fine. That is why I am thinking it somewhat related to combustion. Since when the engine is cold, the computer pumps more gas into the cylinders, and hence no bad knocking. As the engine warms up and starts running leaner on gas, that is when the sounds start.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, but you can't have detonation at idle speed. The engine would destroy itself, even if this were possible. Have you considered wrist pin noise? This can be tested by disconnecting one cylinder at a time---if the noise suddenly doubles in frequency, that wrist pin is loose.

    Let's see---other noises can be: fuel injector clicking; exhaust leak, valve tappet, worn camshaft lobe.....???

    What I'm driving at is that the only kind of noise that might appear when the engine is warm and not cold is one related to the thinning of the oil.

    Anyway, I wish I could hear it, I could talk more intelligently about it.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    Ok, I will try the spark plug test.
    I will also try to get a video with sound uploaded.
  • achtungyallachtungyall Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Mazda 6 4 cyl. It was running fine. I came back from the holidays at home and unloaded my car. 2 hours later I went to run to the store and it wouldn't crank. At all. It tries really hard and sounds healthy, but it just won't start. The turnover sounds fine and the lights are all fine so I'm guess it's not the battery.

    Someone suggested spark plugs, but I doubt they'd all go out at the same time. Someone else suggested fuses, but I couldn't find any that were blown.

    Someone else suggested security system and to reset it, but I can't find out how to do that for the life of me!

    Any ideas?
  • abirdabird Member Posts: 7
    Well, my wife brought in my 04 mazda6 wagon in for service today. 63800 miles. Asked them to check out the clutch, since it has been shuddering when I shift from 1st to 2nd unless I give it more gas than usual. The response she gets is that the pressure plate is getting weak--it will likely be driveable this way for a while--and then I will need a new clutch to the tune of $1750. I am 43 years old, drive the car sensibly, and have never worn out a clutch this early.

    I have been searching the net for information, and see that I am not alone. See that there is a TSB which would appear to apply if the car were within 12mo or 12000mi of purchase--otherwise, would require "DCSM authorization."

    So my questions are:
    1) what does DCSM mean?
    2) what are my chances of getting Mazda to fix this, or at least reduce my cost? any advice on tactics?
    3) any experience/thoughts about how much savings there is to be had by going with an independent shop?
    4) does it make sense to consider an aftermarket clutch?

    I want to have this all planned out before the clutch dies--would really appreciate input about this.

    Thanks!
  • des5des5 Member Posts: 88
    1. District Customer Service Manager. The Mazda fellow whose job it is to get you off the company's back at the lowest cost.
    2. Chances vary. The vehicle age and mileage you're at are not in your favor. Loyalty to the brand and dealer may help. Always pays to at least give it a try. If they turn you down, ask them to explain why the TSB doesn't apply.
    3. Estimates are free, often available right over the phone. A reputable independent shop can be 30-50% cheaper and every bit as good. A lot has to do with the cost of the parts, and availability of non-OEM parts.
    4. Depends. Typically aftermarkets are higher-performance tuner parts and cost more accordingly - not likely of interest to you. Another factor is how long you intend to keep the vehicle. The repair cost works out to $30 a month amortized over the next five years. Also, what could you buy in its place, even in trade?

    Having been in your place (not with my Mazdas), I've gone with the lowest price good shop I could find.
  • abirdabird Member Posts: 7
    Thank you, that is very helpful. Interestingly, the clutch is less symptomatic now that it has gotten warmer.

    I think the most likely scenario is that I will end up going with an independent shop. And yes, definitely seems more cost effective to fix rather than trade. I do like the car, and it has treated me pretty well. The only other significant repair was replacing the starter which was done under warranty.

    It appears that most of the cost is associated with labor rather than parts. Looks like I can get an OEM clutch for a little under $200, and an Exedy Stage 1 clutch (popular on the mazda6club forum) for a little over $300.

    What I don't know is whether the aftermarket clutch is likely to last longer. Any thoughts on that?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wouldn't buy an aftermarket clutch unless I spoke with (or internetted-with) someone who installed one. I'd be interested to see about pedal pressure. Some HD clutch packs can be a bear to push on, in traffic all the day long. Also, if the repair shop didn't order the part, then if something goes wrong, the repair shop will NOT warranty the work if it is a parts rather than an installation problem.

    Also keep in mind that clutch chatter is not always clutch related---the repair shop should carefully check for oil leaks and unusual wear on other components that work along with the clutch---so, too, motor and transmission mounts.
  • abirdabird Member Posts: 7
    Thanks. Yes, I think it makes sense to buy the parts from whomever does the work. Do HD clutches generally last longer? I anticipate that this car will stay in our family for 150K+ miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's hard to say because HD clutches are usually put only into severe service.
  • bear26bear26 Member Posts: 12
    Hi,

    I have a 2010 Mazda 6 and have noticed that when I have the vents on (eg:face/feet) I will have intermittent sound coming from the main dash vent on my driver side..the vent just under the windshield. It sounds like the sound your vents make when they first open, the swoosh sound. Its almost like the vent is trying to open again, doesn't last long, maybe a second, but is kinda annoying.

    I just took it for service and the tech said it was normal HVAC operation after he drove it and heard it.

    Does anyone else second this or have another opinion?

    Thanks
  • redmazda3redmazda3 Member Posts: 28
    My 2009 Mazda6 has the same noise. It sounds like the vent didn't open or close all the way.
  • ron71157ron71157 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,

    Anyone know how to open the hatchback from the inside? it is jammed .

    Thanks

    ron
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    Not sure if Mazda corrected or improved this design on the '09- but I had a similar problem on an '07 (you can check my previous posts)- but it was a purge valve mount issue on mine- I had to take it back two or three times before they finally heard it and acknowledged the issue: 01-012-07-ticking-noise-purge-valve
    I can send you the TSB if needed.

    Hope you get to the bottom of it-please advise
    sincerely,
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
    This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
    Thanks for the help
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    edited February 2010
    Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
    It is not the noise of the clicking of the fuel injectors that I am talking about, but a faint background knock sound similar to 2 marbles rolling around in a tin can,
    You might need to listen to it a few times to train your ear to the sound.
    This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
    Thanks for the help
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What I hear is lifter noise.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    How serious is that, and is it worth complaining about it to try to get it fixed. If it is something that will not affect the long life of the engine, I had rather the dealer does not mess with it.
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited February 2010
    Well it depends on how hard it's hammering. Your engine has, I believe, a shim-type valve adjustment, which is a fairly tedious process. I don't think modern engines should be clicking away like that but, since they are adjustable type lifters, a bit of noise is quite normal. How many miles on this engine?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    This issue started since the engine was new after a few thousand kilometeres. Became noticable after the first oil change at the dealer, and was the same from that point on. It is not getting worse. But I do notice the intensity of the noise varies depending on humidity (less when it is more humid), and on fuel grade (less with better fuel). That is why I originally thought it is related to combustion.
    My engine currently has 35,000 KM on it. The dealer I bought the car from dismissed it as normal 4 Cylinder engine noise. I did make the complaint early on when the car had only 12,000 KM (second oil change).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well why not pair it up head to head with another identical car in the dealer's lot, and see which is noisier, if either?

    If they both make the same noise, he wins. If his is quiet and noise is conspicuously more noisy, then he should do something about your car. Seems like a fair bet.
  • culpgrl4culpgrl4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 mazda 6 with @84000 miles on it> Check engine light came on with a misfire in cylinder 6. I just replaced all 6 coil packs and spark plugs because that is what i was told it was. It is still misfiring puttering hesitating and the check engine light came back on. Could anybody help me with what is wrong with this car. This was my dream car I bought it in sept and it has sat since oct got it out yesterday to work on it now is sitting again. Please any suggestions would help.
  • waggone04waggone04 Member Posts: 6
    Well, I think it is a sensor. First the O2 sensor (oxygen sensor) , then MAP sensor (mass air flow), next PCV (positive crankase vent), last check your fuel pressure, and flow rate. Hope you used an O2 sensor "safe" antisieze on the plugs. If not the O2 is now bad. Good luck...
  • ianmaticianmatic Member Posts: 10
    What's the best kind of oil for a 2009 Mazda 6 with a 2.5 LT engine? I read in the manual about the standard oil that it is recommended, but is Catrol GTX better? Would it increase the egnine life and perform better?
  • ifranksifranks Member Posts: 5
    I recently had a similar problem with my 05 Mazda 6 GT 6 cylinder. Check engine light came on and the computer couldnt detect a fault (no codes showed). Not the gas cap either. But when I filled up it was difficult to start the engine. The mechanic at Metro Town Mazda in Burnaby BC Canada (Frank) thought it may be the Purge Solenoid that became stuck on open. They replaced the Solenoid and I have had no problems since.
  • ronsteffronsteff Member Posts: 6
    i brought a new 2110 mazda 6 i touring 4 cyl inotice a hole under the oil filter should there be a round cover there and can i use synthetic oil
  • ronsteffronsteff Member Posts: 6
    i have a new 2010 i touring 6 does anyone know if the front windows go down with the key fab i was told by the dealer not on the model i have but in the owners manual it doesnt say what model
  • mazda6hyymazda6hyy Member Posts: 7
    I have 2009 Mazda6, bought in early Nov 2008, now 20k miles. My dealer (Oaktree, San Jose) always asked me go back every 3750 miles, that's about every 3 months. I commute 25 mi/each way to work, of which, 24 mi is highway. Average 30-45 min some stop-and-go traffic. Since they offer "complete care", I don't mind going back that frequent to have them inspect my car. I paid about $30-$60 after discount. (Download coupon from mazdausa.com.)
  • al33al33 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I tried starting my car this morning and nothing happened except the odometer needle went crazy and the security light (shapped like a car with a key inside) was flashing fast. After boosting it, it finally started but although I let it run for a few minutes, when I tried to restart again, it wouldn't start. In the owner's manual they say to take the car to the dealer and that it could be a key programming problem. Could it be a computer problem that could be solved by some sort of reset?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Sounds like the battery needs to be replaced. This can cause the gauge needles to jump when trying to start the car. And although the lights and other accessories may be functioning okay, there may not be enough to start the engine.
  • al33al33 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I changed the battery and now the engine starts. But how can I be sure it wasn't the generator (alternator)?
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