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Comments
Just out of curiosity, what are they giving you for your trade? also what trim, major options and miles? This can be a big difference in the deal.
I would really like to see how you can figure what an 09 Mazda6 would be worth used right now. Please do not site KBB, since their values are worth nothing.
First, you cannot compare the 08 Mazda6 to the 09. Totally different cars and the 08 was considered a "bargain buy". The new Mazda6 offer so much more in every was over the previous model.
Second, you cannot talk about the Mazda6 sales being that bad because Mazda was never, and will never be on the sales charts like the Accord and Camry. The Mazda6's YOY sales numbers are not much worse the both Camry and Accords YOY sales. Mazda6 was down 8.5% for 2008 and the Accord was down 5.3%. 3.2% is not that big.
Also, since I highly doubt you are an economist, you are forgetting that the economy has driven down the values of every vehicle out there, including Honda and Toyota
Lastly, why is this conversation even taking place is you are not going to sell this car within a year? No one is stupid enough to do that.
Jfritsch has been repeatedly put in his place and yet he continues to cite these ridiculous one year later values. It is pretty common knowledge that ANY car is going to be worth a heck of a lot less used than it is new. Quoting some kind of wholesale price bible isn't going to help anyone. Just because a car is allegedly worth $12,000 after one year doesn't mean it is even remotely possible to buy it brand new for XXXXX amount. The numbers have precisely nothing to do with each other.
You can't buy a car for less than the dealer bought it for. If you could there would be no car dealers. They need to make money to pay their staff and pay the rent, utilities, etc. It's not realistic to try to draw conclusions about what someone should pay for a new car based on a 1 year old DIFFERENT model's TRADE-IN value. It makes no sense. As the other poster said, "WHO TRADES IN A CAR AFTER ONE YEAR ANYWAY?"
There was, (and is) a world wide oversupply of manufacturing capacity for autos. Since most people don't know how to buy cars, and need a target, a useful one is about 15-25% over the trade in value of the previous year (12+ months), depending on time of year. This formula would be useful for about 95% of production autos. The closer you can get within the target the better, Usually hitting 10-20 dealers last week of the month via email. We would like to be well within this target (or better) with the economy as it is and the financial position of the B3
.
The M3 has been among the best in this regard for years, people easily getting the vehicle new for about 20% more than a used one, with little effort.
20+ years ago the average difference between published "invoice" and "msrp" prices was around 15%.Now, its a bit over 6. If you think the profit margin on cars has shrunk by more than half over the years you are silly. The published invoice figures representing "cost" on autos has been a nominal figure for almost 2 decades mitigated by advertised and unadvertised dealer incentives, and expected rebates.
Assuming you know dealer "cost" from published "invoice" figures and subtracting "holdback" etc is many times not useful. This is especially true when dealers are given additional unadvertised incentives to dump stock in a particular model or region.
Sedans are sedans, one way or another, the 1st year depreciation gives one an idea of how unrealistic the msrp for a particular model is. Most cars depreciate about the same percentage after the 1st 12 months. Many people rarely buy cars, and may get excited about a huge $7000 off a 24000 msrp Chevrolet Impala. Paying 17000 for an asset worth about 10000 in 12 months is nothing to really jump at. You've eaten about $3000+ whether you sell the vehicle or not.
Eating 7000 to drive a mediocre sedan the 1st 12 months isn't great whether you sell it or drive it 10 years. One needs at least 10k off this vehicle to make sense, for example. If not doable one should pick one of the better models, or really really want a new Impala.
So- one shouldn't sprain his ankle getting to a dealer for a $7000 off msrp deal on an Impala, or a $3000 off deal on a M6. This is when the economy was good.
Also, since I highly doubt you are an economist, you are forgetting that the economy has driven down the values of every vehicle out there, including Honda and Toyota
I'm not an economist, I'm not that silly. You don't need to be an economist to know the economy has driven down prices (many trade in prices about 15%), thats why we want more offie the (increased?) 09 msrp-ie.
Second, you cannot talk about the Mazda6 sales being that bad because Mazda was never, and will never be on the sales charts like the Accord and Camry.
I would really like to see how you can figure what an 09 Mazda6 would be worth used right now Please do not site KBB, since their values are worth nothing.
Certainly, thats why we compare trade in values to its competitors-- $10000 (Impala)-14000 (Altima), and the 08 used mazda6 around 12000, One makes a reasonable guess that the 09 will be worth 13000-14000 in 12 months (we'll give it the benefit of the doubt). No reason to think otherwise. Mazda's standing in the world hasn't changed much, and the Toyota and Honda probably still have higher trade in's. (I didn't look them up)
I'm sure all the wholesalers I've seen at auctions for years with the different bibles in their pockets (some published for 90 years) would like to know that they are "worth nothing". You owe it to them to share this knowledge.
Good luck
--jjf
Lastly, why is this conversation even taking place is you are not going to sell this car within a year? No one is stupid enough to do that
Well, like I said it is irrelevant when you sell it, and it may be true that most of the world will never be as smart as you guys, but when I sold cars people were switching rides early all the time.
New family additions (the stork), circumstances change, the spouse can't stand it another minute, they can't afford it, and there are the legions of car nuts. Some of the car nuts were car smart, they knew how to buy a car to sustain their "habit", some didn't care, they are getting the newest and greatest.
No one is stupid enough to do that
It happens that sometimes when I would deliver a car replacing an early trade, I would get a look at the buyers family and housing situation. A lot of times I saw evidence that these individuals were probably (very generously) AT LEAST as smart as you. Besides, getting out of a car early can occur for multitudes of reasons. Repossessions too (especially now)
This doesn't even take into account should one total his 22000 msrp M6 he paid $19000 for a year from now, there is a fair probability the insurance agent will be handing you a check for about $13000 for it.
If you get excited at a $6000 off msrp deal on a 09 27000 (25700 "invoice") Chevy Impala and pay 21000 for a vehicle that has an 08 trade in of under $13000 you have spent over $8000 (+finance) to drive a average sedan for the 1st 12 months in a period of falling car sales yet. This is whether you sell it or drive it for 20 years. Avoid getting caught up with nominal "invoice" and other "dealer cost" figures.
Second, you cannot talk about the Mazda6 sales being that bad because Mazda was never, and will never be on the sales charts like the Accord and Camry. The Mazda6's YOY sales numbers are not much worse the both Camry and Accords YOY sales. Mazda6 was down 8.5% for 2008 and the Accord was down 5.3%. 3.2% is not that big.
Mazda expressed disappointment at (Q4) M6 sales vs the same year ago quarter (off 40%+?). The M6 was not selling as well as its other mazda products. Year over year figures (YOY) are not as useful in a rapidly tanking economy.
Yearly sales down 8.5% for a low volume vehicle like the M6 vs 5% and 3% for a higher volume vehicle is a big deal in any event.
So to review:
-If a 09 vehicle's (our M6) direct competitors have 08 trade in values of $11,000 (Impala and G6),12000 (Fusion, Sonata, Aura, M6) and $14000 (Altima) its likely that vehicle will also have a trade in value in that range in 12 months, especially if the previous design 08 M6 trades in for 12000. This is in a normal economy much less with sales falling.
-Significant #s of people, some as smart as you and (dare I say it) possibly smarter than you are out of vehicles and into others in about a year for various reasons.
-People who try to calculate dealer "cost" from published "invoice" figures and subtracting advertised incentives and rebates when such figures have been nominal for almost 2 decades get no fortune cookie.
So, welcome to car sales and planet earth.
"With invoice at over $26k and $1k from the factory we are a little ways away (from my $23,500 offer). Granted, there is some dealer holdback, but it is a few hundred not thousand dollars. And of course, this money is used to pay me and the other staff that are needed to process your transaction and keep the lights on. With the current state of the car industry dealers can ill afford to lose hundreds of dollars on every transaction. That said, I will do everything possible to earn your business."
This is a direct quote from the highest volume Mazda dealer in my area.
So Jfritsch, do you think you can get $10,000 off a Mazda6? I can't even get $4,000 off with a $1,000 rebate included. If you can please send me the dealer and salesman. If not, quit making up nonsense.
Do you honestly think you can buy a new Mazda 6, or any other car for that matter, for 15-25% over it's previous year trade-in value? The market is so much more complicated than that. It has been complex for 20 years not just because of the recession. Trade-in values on last year's models have absolutely no correlation between real world new car prices. None. I don't understand where you are getting these figures. Have you even bought a new car in the past 10 years? I could see maybe drawing a conclusion of blue book PRIVATE PARTY values but not trade-in or wholesale values.
PS: If you have any gold you want to get rid of I'll buy it from you at last year's wholesale price. Let me know.
Not exactly the $10,000 off jfritsch was rambling about. Only $2,541 off by my calculations.
It may be that good deals are not being offered on this new model right now, like there were on the prior one and like there may be now on the outgoing Mazda3. Plus if the buyer is taking the discount financing, that costs something extra in the price too, so the reported selling price is going to reflect that.
Obviously the poster who's doing all this research is a smarter and more sophisticated person than myself and he understands what he's trying to get across...most of us just don't see it and it seems rather pointless to us. To eqach his own I guess.
But really, how many people really take in the 1st years depreciation into the variables of their new car purchase anyhow. Don't mean to rain on your parade about these calculations you like so much, but you make it more complicating thatn it needs to be and there's so much other stuff to mentally deal with that this kind of analysis seems silly.
The Sandman :confuse: ( Not To Bright Or Sophisticated)
On the Mazda6, the specific comment that seems to have started the controversy was:
$3000 off a 22000 base mazda6 wouldn't seem that appealing to me at $19000. I believe the 20000msrp 09 mazda5 is barely worth 13000 in 12 months. $4000 or so off msrp is appropriate here, and your targets (price or price + financing.)
Invoice minus rebate is probably $2500-3000 off and then Mazda is offering 0% on top of that, which is worth maybe $1500-2000. So $4000 off would seem to be pretty reasonable, if you don't take the financing. Or if the financing is worth it to you, just take that and $2500-3000 off (which has a true value of $4000 or more off, due to the savings on interest).
Honda Civic EX: $18,398
Mazda 6 i touring: $19,450+$1250(sunroof)=20,650 ( I like sunroof)
What would you choose based on the performance of the cars and their prices?
Thanks.
Some of the cars mentioned have trade in values of 7-10k off msrp 12 or so months after purchase. No one said you should get 10000 off msrp all of them.
However, getting 4000 off a vehicle worth 10000 from msrp in 12 months is nothing to write home about during normal times, much less the worst sales environment in 25 years.
$10000 off msrp for the Chevy Impala (11000 used 08, 24000msrp 09) is nothing to get excited about, especially with the GM situation. (anybody gonna argue that?)
Almost all common production autos depreciate about the same % every year after the 1st 12 months. The big hit is how unrealistic the MSRP is.
A very good deal for about 95 % of production cars is about 15% (end of model clearance Aug-Sept) to 25% more than the trade in value of the previous year. This was during good times.
20% over the trade in of a 08 M6 is about 16500. The 09 did change from 08 so we'll call the trade in 13500 instead of 12000. $16500 would be a good deal mid year during good times, now we have the worst sales environment in 25 years.
One cannot go into a local dealer and beg for hours for more off. (where is the competition?) Soliciting 10-20 bids from dealers via email last week of the month will provide 2-4 who really need to make a sale. Work them by cell phone (about 10-12% of dealerships are behind quota any given month.) Work from your couch for a week and do not drag the wife back and forth between 3 local dealerships.
This car will likely be worth only $13-14K in a year. Meaning that year cost you $6000-7000, which is a lot to pay for one year
Yes, paying 7000 to drive an average sedan, or 8000 to drive a (below avg?) Impala the 1st 12 months isn't great during normal economic times. We would like to keep this around $3000, or whatever 20% of 1st year trade in is.
So, if mazda has its production and distribution in exceptionally good shape in your region, you really really need a car tomorrow, or you want the only Tangerine M6 with the dickey-bird package and leopard skin interior option within 700 miles you may have to pay up.
Just don't sprain the the wife's wrist dragging her to the dealer for a once-in-a-lifetime $7000 off a Impala or $4000 off a M6. In a recession yet.
OK?
Good luck
--jjf
Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think you are saying $10,000 off on a new Mazda6 is readily available. What I think you are saying is, if you are looking to buy one with MSRP of $23,000 and the best deal you can get is $20,000, this is really not such a great deal. This car will likely be worth only $13-14K in a year. Meaning that year cost you $6000-7000, which is a lot to pay for one year.
It may be that good deals are not being offered on this new model right now, like there were on the prior one and like there may be now on the outgoing Mazda3. Plus if the buyer is taking the discount financing, that costs something extra in the price too, so the reported selling price is going to reflect that.
Out-the-door price: $29,500. Also got the 0% APR for 36 months.
I received S-Plan Pricing (Supplier) (Invoice).
In Chicago there is a $500 S-Plan Rebate, plus I am getting Dealer Cash of $1000.
When the car is delivered, you can also get any Public Rebates that are available at the time.
I would also register at www.mazdausa.com, requesting updates on the 2010 Mazda 3...Mazda usually gives a Private Launch Rebate..On the 6 it was $1000, but any other models it was $500.
You can negotiate like the car is on the lot..Shouldn't be any difference..
The delivery time is about 8-10 Weeks.
How much for the car, taxes, fee's etc.
Invoice - 1k incentives = $20,565. (plus add region assessment fee, which i don't think is real.)
Do you qualify for loyalty rebate?
Depending on your taxes, you might be able to get more off.
Selling Price: $21,786
Tax: $1.686.00
DMV Fees: $321.75
Minus $1000 Rebate
Total: $22,793.77
Can I do better?
I used a couple of dealers, but I ended up with the salesman at Jim Ellis in Marietta since he would respond more quickly and directly to my questions. it made it more difficult since there was only 1 touring manual around, so I basically would have had to pay them to bring in a car from Tennessee if it was not going to be buy the one in the area.
So I'm figuring it cost me about $400 extra to trade it in rather than sell myself (trade in tax savings brings the value I got to about 6800, vs. 7200 on my own), which I would be happy to pay to avoid the hassle and risk of selling it myself.
I really like driving stick, but I'm 6'3", so I really appreciate the space in this car, especially compared to the 6th gen accord with its low slung dash that took away knee room.
My only concern is I worry about the long term maintenance of the push button start. I would be fine with a normal key. It seems like something like that could end up being bmw-or-volkswagen-type-expensive-repair if it did fail.
Otherwise, I could have gotten 1000 cash rebate +1000 owner loyalty + discounted Mazda financing.
I have finally decided on a Mazda 6 I-Touring (Auto) with Moonroof and Bose Speaker system. I went to a dealer without doing any research, just so I could drive a Mazda. When I went there he said the MSRP with Bose package and taxes is around 25,000 dollars and said that invoice for this car is 22,500 then kept a 19,969 figure in front of me (which is without taxes). He also said that the incentives do not get applied to this price.
How much have you guys paid for a Mazda 6 i - touring with Moonroof and Bose Package? I think I can put a good chunk of money as down payment and rest, I would finance from the dealer. What do think would be a good price. How should I negotiate with the dealers?
Please help me figure out this.
Personally on the Maz6 v6 that i've been looking at, Kbb posting at $22.969.00. I've received quotes from 6 dealers between -$1,974.00 to -$913 below invoice for the v6 sport model.
This weekend after the test drive, one of the main managers offered $25,00 OTD for the Maz v6 GT, yes it would have included tax + lic, + reg etc.. for cash payment. Funnie part is it was late about closing time, everyone was kind of tired, the guy had a big ego and maybe wanted to prove something, I donno. He was trying to call me out on being ready to buy, even though I had flat out said i'm only there to test drive the car to see if I like it. Personally the Maz6 v6 didn't put a bug up my butt to buy it so back to trolling other cars for me.
The silver lining here is if you're going to pay cash, and there's a car with options on the lot, you can get a pretty snazy deal.
KBB $21,565.00
Edmunds $22,605.00
Maz 6 Options (from the mazdausa.com page vehicle details.)
LEV-2 ULEV EMISSIONS $100.00
MOONROOF & BOSE PKG $1,760.00
NAVIGATION SYSTEM $2,000.00
ALL-WEATHER FLOOR MATS $78.00
CONVENIENCE PACKAGE $1,610.00
I'm heavily debating between the Mazda 6 iTouring and Ford Fusion SE (4-cyl). The thing that is making this a difficult decision for me is the fact that I get $5000 in incentives through Ford ($3500 + $1500 conquest rebate), saving me a couple thousand in the long run after adjusting for the cost to own, so I'm trying to get the price of the Mazda 6 down as much as possible without putting too much strain on myself or the salesman. The quote I got seems like a fair price - can I do better?
Took me a couple of weeks dealing with semi-idiotic dealers but I got a Mazda 6 s Touring w/ Convenience Package for 24,500 (after 1k rebate). I think the first Mazda dealer I went to was a Ford guy cause I knew more in regards to the M6. The second dealer was much better and I felt more comfortable buying from him. Even though I wanted the bose/moonroof package with the touring M6, it seemed they were all 100 miles away. I thought about it and I will just install an aftermarket radio since I didn't care for the moonroof. (Hopefully, the aftermarket radio will not void warranty)
Picking it up tomorrow
1k Cash
1k owner loyalty
+Special Financing
Any S-plan rebates or other hidden rebates?
It seems people can work the car down to 2k under invoice/s-plan pricing pretty easy.
But "stewie2" thinks you can get even lower.
Besides the 2% holdback, what else is there?
http://www.carpricedatabase.com/news/2009/01/2008-2009-mazda-rebates-incentives-- dealer-cash/
Rebates to dealer: $1500
Customer rebate: $1000
Loyalty rebate: $1000
Private lunch rebate is back?: $1000?
Plus Special Financing.
I am not sure they all can be combined though.
$24,850.00............S-Plan w/S-Plan Rebate and Dealer Cash
2009 I-GT...Black Cherry w/ Black
Moonroof/Bose
Remote Starter
Moonroof Deflector
Splash Guards
All-Weather Floor Mats
Cargo Net
Chrome Fuel Door
Protector Paint Protection
Tax @7% $1739.50
TTL/Doc Fee $300.00
OTD $26,889.50
Price: $22,589.00
Doc fee: $190.00
Tax (6%): $1366.74
Title/Registration (+ new plate): 174.00
The total OTD price (including $1000 incentive for financing) was $23,319.74. If you're in the metro Detroit area, Ralph Thayer Mazda was a pleasure to work with. I was originally planning on getting an Accord, but the Honda dealerships around here treated me like crap, and it seriously made the Accord that much less appealing. Regardless, I'm very happy with my purchase!
Also, I'm really happy I spent a little more on the convenience package because I think the extra features are worth it. The bluetooth phone works well with my phone - my girlfriend said it sounded like I was holding it up to my ear like normal.
I bought one last Fall for nearly the same price equipped as you did. I think it is the best value for features in this combination. The moonroof would have been nice but I am taller and appreciate the extra headroom.
What color did you get?
We wanted the convenience package and the moonroof & bose package
The MSRP on this vehicle is: $26,695
The best price after some haggling was: $24,221 (as they don't have the color in stock and will need to get it -- after looking online it is approx. 30 miles away).
Then I had a 2000 Honda Civic Trade in - Basic car (crank windows), etc.. needs new tires and auto locks fixed. They told me they would give me $2600 for my trade-in. This was good as I was expecting $1500-1800.
So after trade in: $21,621
I am unsure about whether or not I am receiving a fair price.. seems alright.. nothing to jump up and down about but seems alright.. thoughts?
Thanks!
Mike
I have found Victory Honda to be particularly sucky, while the Brighton, Ann Arbor and Ypsi dealers were very straight forward.
I have had good experiences with Ralph Thayer (Mazda3) and Sesi (Protege) for Mazda.
It's hard to value the aftermarket addons - you're on the dealer's turf there.