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Comments
The 05's are coming on the lot - definitely - hopefully it will help incentivise the dealers to liquidate the 04's. Especially if their lot is full of cars and they don't have anywhere to put the 05's.
Right now is a tricky time of year to be buying an 04 because the longer you wait, the higher the incentive, but at the same time the selection dwindles - so you may end up with something that isn't exactly what you want if you wait too long.
The current consumer rebate is $1500 not $2250.
Remember....not all incentives cover the entire country and this "secret" rebate your talking about may have qualifiers. So when your throwing around numbers of what somebody should or shouldn't pay take into consideration you may be basing your numbers on incentives that may false or phoney in regions other than yours....
I would imagine that you may be able to get more than the $1500 even in areas where they were only offering $1500.
Anyway....do what you want, all I know is that if I buy one it will likely be for $3,500 below invoice. (including my college grad rebate)
Shoot, the fact that the incentive difference could be $1500 - that boarders on arbatrage possibilities.
I keep reading on other posts around these forums that the MZ6 isn't selling well. Hard to believe given the quality of the vehicle and the reasonable prices after rebates and dealer concessions. I've had mine a month and have zero to report in the way of complaints.
MSRP: $27680
Invoice: $25330
My Price (before trade, after TTL): $23829
After Trade: $20129
I'm pretty happy with the deal. I know they made some money, but I don't feel like I got screwed on it. Now the only problem is that I can't take possession until Nov. 29th because I turn 25 on the 27th, and my insurance would skyrocket if I registered the car before then. I CAN'T WAIT!!!
2004 Mazda 6i 5-door (Steel Grey) $21,615
-Security Package
-Bose Audio Package
-4-speed automatic
-Moonroof
-Compass/Homelink
Total: $25,000 msrp
After figuring it my trade-in (which I would have owed them $1,400) and rebates, the OTD price was $20,650. Not bad, but I was unsatisfied with the bargaining experience. They kept trying to sway me with "what monthly payment do you want to pay?" and it became unbearable. When the monthly payments seemed too high for my credit score and such, I was less willing to bother. And the fact that it was my first time negotiating for a car was pressuring. So I asked them for a copy of their offer and I left.
Before I walked away, they try to sell me a '04 6s (with Moonroof and Bose) for $21,618 OTD. Again, not bad, but I just wasn't comfortable doing it. Maybe for all the waiting I've been doing, I'm just not ready for a bigger car- yet. Were these good deals that I walked from?
I am a bit upside down on my Jetta right now and want to trade it in, but the market is very soft for them right now so I am getting screwed if I bite the bullet.
Options:
1LX
AT2
MR1
3RA
AB6
Bought if for 4500 below invoice. This includes the 500 Grad rebate and the 4000 cash to customer. For an out of the door price of 22500. I had driven the sedan, hatchback and the wagon. Decided on the wagon for all the extra room it has and still handles like a sedan. Tested a Honda Accord 4EX too. Great car, but I fell in love with the looks and the sporty handling of the mazda6. Hope the reliability will be close to a Honda or a Toyota.
Bose audio package
Power moonroof
Side airbags and side curtain airbags
Roof rack side rails
Price was $19375 after $4000 rebate.
Luxury Package
Sport Package
Bose Package
Roof Rack
Side and Curtain Airbags
Auto Trans
Compass/Auto Dim Mirror/Homelink
Moonroof
Door Edge Guards
LEV Emissions
Sticker was $28,760. Got it for $1,500 under invoice plus the $4,000 rebate from Mazda. Paid $20,683 (before Taxes/Title, etc.) and the salesman threw in the window etching for no charge. I'm real happy with the deal considering I was looking at a 4/5 year-old Audi A6 Avant, similarly equipped with 40K+ miles for about the same price.
Great price, great experience. Zoom-Zoom!
Keep in mind that this was through the Ford Partner Program which is usually priced at invoice.
Steel Gray Metallic Ext
Gray Leather Int
MSRP Inv Edmund
22,525 20,770 20975
Options
Lux Pkg 1540 1232 1262
5 Sp auto 900 783 794
Sport Pkg 770 616 631
Pwr Moon 700 560 574
Bose Audio 635 508 520
LEV 100 87 88
Rear Bump 45 36 37
Whl locks 30 24 24
Dest Chg 520 520 520
NY Reg Adj (35)
Prices 27,765 25,136 25,435
Offered dealer 25,435 less 4,000 rebate (21,453)via internet. Dealer responded with 25,386, minus rebate for final price of 21,386. Had to add tax,title and license fee to above price. Great Neck Mazda in New York, pretty painless deal. I was at another dealer the week before, and was going to buy a lesser equipped 6, but the salesman kept insisting on dealing off the MSRP.
So the dealer countered your offer with an offer for less money?
You will appreciate what a great deal you made after you drive the car awhile. IMHO it's the best sedan/wagon/hatch value out there, especially with the improved rebates.
I am interested in buying a 2004 MZ6 s, 5 door - with AT, Bose, Luxury pkg, Moonroof and Side and curtain air bags, cassette player. I m living in Tallahassee, Florida. If anyone around this place has recently bought a MZ6 - could you kindly share your experience with the dealer and the price i could expect to pay.
I built my car on edmunds and i get the following:
MSRP : 28320/-
Invoice : 25654/-
TMV : 25826/-
I find a 3000$ customer cash back incentive from Mazda.
What would be a fair price to pay. Also if you can send me details of your dealer and any other incentives/ rewards that you know of..
I called the local dealer here - Gem Mazda and he didn't seem like keen on working with the invoice price.I would really appreciate any and all the help. Thanks..
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
You may want to try the inventory search on mazdausa.com too. I found that the inventory was accurate, I never came across a vehicle on the site that was already gone (my car disappeared from the site the same day I bought it). Once you get some search results, you can view options, MSRP's, print the window stickers, and save each vehicle for later viewing in "my saved items" if you are a registered user. You can also request e-mail quotes on the cars you are interested in, which is very simple because the site puts the VIN into an e-mail and sends it off to the appropriate dealer for you. I got two low quotes from different dealers outside my area in two days, and used them to negotiate locally.
BTW, I've not yet seen a salesman who is keen on discussing invoice price. I'm not an expert negotiator, so I like to try and get a couple low quotes on vehicles I'm interested in over the Internet first, then get an edmunds.com TMV pricing report, print everything out and go over all of it with the dealer who has the car I like the best, then go from there. In my experience, once they see that you have a couple cars you are serious about somewhere else that can break their deal, and they know that you have a pretty good idea what they paid for the car plus what other people are paying in your area, the prices usually loosen up a bit. If you're like me, and not good at or comfortable with face-to-face haggling, you can usually get right down to the final price over the phone or via e-mail this way, without wasting a lot of time being tag-teamed by the dealer's sales office in their own environment.
I don't like to rake the dealers over the coals too much because they have to make some profit, but at least getting close to invoice or Edmund's TMV price and maybe a couple extras thrown in like suydam did is usually my goal. Walking in or calling and making a very low offer at or under invoice price straight away has not worked well for me in the past.
Happy shopping, and good luck.
Once you locate a car in your area that you will be happy with, try this: Use the email here at Edmunds to contact the dealer. Decide what out-the-door price you want to pay, which will include all fees and taxes. If you have a trade, appraise it here at Edmunds and include that in the out-the-door price.
In the message box at the bottom of the email, state that you will purchase this vehicle immediately if the dealer meets your price. If you don't receive a response within 24 hours, follow up with a phone call. If you offer invoice less rebate, I can almost guarantee the dealer will accept.
The point is to keep the transaction as simple as possible. Don't get involved with invoice prices, add on fees, etc. Just put a number out there for the dealer to act on. Be sure to line up your financing before you go to the dealership unless you plan to use Mazda's low-rate financing in lieu of the big rebate.
This worked for me last month in Orlando. Good luck!
I went down to the local dealer here yesterday to see what o4's he had on the lot left and just take a peak. He didn't have much inventory of the 04's and i think that is one reason he is not negotiating on the price. With ur suggestions - i checked up on Mazda site - inventory search. Will email/call those dealers now to see if i can get a fair price from them.
will update in a day or so with what latest i hear from the dealers.
btw.. i test drove the mazda6 - i n s again yesterday and fell in love with it even more.. its seems to be a great car..
I believe Rich posted some time ago that some of the 05 model builds have been pushed back a couple of months because of a raw materials shortage. If that's the case, your dealer won't be very motivated and you may have to look elsewhere. Supplies are dwindling around here, for sure.
Here is the deal he offered me for :
04 MZ6 i with AT, Security Pkg, bose pkg, moonroof, floor mats, wheel locks, wind deflector
Msrp : 24970/-
His Inv price :22,874/-
OTD price: 22,113/- (including taxes, tag n all)
(22874 + 276 profit + tax n tag - 3000 rebate )
What do you think about this offer guys.
Also i wanted to know on V4 / V6 - i test drove both. I have been driving a 97 Altima V4 and am perfectly happy with the V4. Don't think i really need the V6.. But am concerned with the fact that MZ is giving a 4Speed at in thier 04 i model. Do you think that would bring down my resale value 4-5 years frm now when i would want to move on ?
Thanks once again for your help.
When fishing for a deal at the end of the year you often have to settle for whats left. That is the trade off for a low price. Some people don't care too much about color or options...
The pink one with vinyl seats and an 8 track player that has been sitting on the dealers lot for a year is the car you can really get a deal on...hahaha
If you really want to push harder on the price, you'll have to decide how badly you want that particular car, whether or not you can afford to wait for it, and how willing you are to risk losing it to another buyer. Of course having a backup selection or two would certainly help, and it looks like you're going in that direction. If you can hang on for those other quotes you asked for, you may also be able to use those as leverage on the car you really want the most.
If worse comes to worst and you just aren't comfortable with the price but don't need to have that car right now, be prepared to walk away. Sometimes if you just put everything down and wait, the dealer may come back with a lower price in a week or two if the car hasn't sold. Chances are they will keep your contact information and the car(s) you showed interest in will be noted right next to it, so you probably won't be forgotten. Walking away is very hard to do, but has worked well for me in the past. Of course you probably don't want to do this unless you have another reasonable deal to fall back on.
I don't know for sure what to tell you about resale value on the I4 vs. V6, although I would guess that generally speaking, a V6 equipped model would probably hold it's value more because in the US larger engines seem to be more popular. You could probably get a rough idea of how it has affected the Mazda6 thus far by running an Edmunds used car pricing report on the 2003 models both ways (with the 4 and with the 6), then calculate the percentage of depreciation for each.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
That being said, you seem to have found a very nice 04 6i hatch. Like Suydam says, it has the security package, which will help your resale value down the road more than the 5-speed automatic will as compared to a 4-speed.
If you want to take a chance of waiting another week, the end of the month may increase the dealer's incentive to take off a few more bucks. But, if you really like the car, and if you can afford it, why take the chance? In a year, you won't care whether you saved another $100 or $200, will you? And, with the $3,000 rebate, you are getting a tremendous value.
any input would be appreciated. I found a used 2004 6 Wagon, auto, leather, moonroof, sport package, side airbags, 8000 miles on it, the back cargo area is pretty beat up (rug is marked up, cargo cover is creased), but otherwise it is in good shape. Edmunds has the invoice at 25,400. Considering the 4000 rebate floating around, what can I offer? I'd like to offer 18,250-18,500 out the door. any advice? is that realistic.? lower, higher? Thanks for the input
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Also should I have my mechanic look at it before I settle on the price, or is carfax enough? thanks
Is that a good price?
Dealer is in Colorado Springs, CO
By buying brand new you eliminate your concerns about prior care. You might also get better financing on a brand new car.
I am thinking about getting the first oid change done soon (1300mile). The only problem that I have is the EPA, it's keeping 20~21 consistantly. Compare with the suby of 25+ that I was getting with the same route and way of dirving, it sucks. But well, gain some and loose some. Besides it's V6 vs. F4. Happy driving to all.
Dealer is quoting best price at $18,200, which seems like an okay price if the car had no mileage. (TMV less $3,000 rebate is $18,430).
I'm thinking there needs to be another $700 to $1,000 taken off for the mileage, so a range of $17,200 to $17,500. Am I being too agressive?
This is a cash deal with no trade. Any comments??
I am not sure where you are from, but I am in Houston TX, and down here I could get one with hardly any miles on it for invoice, plus any any rebates.
A car with 3,500 miles on it is essentially a used car - I think it should be treated as though it is a certified used vehicle. Considering that, I would tell him to look at the depreciation of the car.
IF you look at the Edmunds depreciation values, you will see that it is roughly $7,500 for depreciation in the first year.
I am pretty aggressive on the pricing, but you may want to take the tone of it being similar to a certified used car, and therefore it isn't worth nearly the invoice price. I am too aggressive at times, but I personally would look at it from the standpoint of - I could get a new car for $18,200 - so how much less is one with 3,500 miles on it already.
for me, I would say 3,500 miles is roughly 30% of a year, therefore, if you think of 30% of the first year in depreciation value of $7,500. this way you are looking at about $2,250 off the price you could get a new one for - thus, I would say $16,000 is a good price for the car.
I think what I have just displayed is sound logic and the only thing the dealer could argue there is if he thinks he can get more for the car from someone else.
But I think I would start the negotiations slightly below that,and have that as a target, but be willing to go up on it a bit depending on how much you wanted it.
One thing I would do during the negotiations is ask him - how much he thinks he could get for it at auction becuase that's where it may end up if he doesn't unload the car.
Those are my thoughts - it is backed up by logic; however, some may have a different viewpoint. I would also note to them that some of the value of this car to them has already been put into the 10's of other deals that this car has gotten for them, so they have already made money off of this car.
But - car dealers usually think pretty linearly, so that will likely just go over their head because they don't see the dollar signs on the paper in front of them.