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What year is yours, a 2006?
did i get a good deal? anyway i hope so...
We've gone to two dealerships: one in CO and one in Salt Lake City. We're putting $1,500 down (which includes 1st month payment), 36 months, 15,000 miles/yr, and MSRP for the two we looked at that were on the lots were between $42k and $43k.
The first dealership in CO offered $650/month. We took that number to Karl Malone Toyota in Salt Lake and got them down to $585/mo.
What do you think? How does $585/mo sound?
Whatever, it's got leather! Does it have a S/R?
Is this a good deal? This is in socal area, by the by.
Thanks
PS, the 4runner is soooo killer, love it, taking it to desert over new years for thorough 4x4 workout!!!
My 1st 4runner also, congrats!
JBL Synthesis Am/Fm 6-Disc In-Dash Cd
side-curtain airbags
extra mile option B
I can look on edmunds for the price without it being a demo with 4,500 miles but I don't know how to figure it with the miles.
We are really glad fate led us to buying this vehicle..already put 200 miles on it and drive's great..and my wife even got the color she wanted....we are coming from a jeep liberty 2002 with over 60,000 trouble free miles and are hopeing that the toyota will be just as good
Options (seem to be the basic standard with this vehicle):
CF – Floor mats & Cargo mat -- $199
NE – Leather steering and shift w/cruise control and audio controls --
RL – Daytime running lights -- $40
TO Weight carrying hitch and ball mount kit -- $430
TOTAL MSRP = $31,289
Purchase Price before $750 rebate: $27,247
Price Paid OTD: (after rebate, tax, title, and fees) = $28,930
I bought mine in Southern California, December 2006, New Year's Eve. Here’s how the deal went down:
Sent out mass quote from Edmunds.com. Received detailed quote by email from one dealer ($27,247 before $750 factory rebate: includes all factory to dealer fees including destination charge).
Unfortunately that dealer did not have the color I wanted and did not offer to bring the vehicle I wanted in from another dealer. So I asked two other dealers to match his quote, one dealer was nearby, the other was a very high-volume dealer known for discount pricing, but that was located nearly 100 miles away. The farther dealer gave me a quote of $27,700 for the car I wanted; my online research also indicated that this dealer was known to be a straight shooter.
I also got a quote (by email) for the trade-in value of my five-year old car that was in good shape but had 150,000 highway miles on it. That quote was $4,000. The Kelley blue book for my trade-in is between $5,900 and $7,150. Edmunds trade-in value is $6,549.
My goal was to get the price at vehicle at $27,247 before $750 factory rebate: including all factory to dealer fees including destination charge, and to get no less than $6500 for my trade-in. My goal was also to do the deal entirely by email and phone. If possible I also wanted to do the deal with the salesperson who did my test drive (that is, if the dealership would do a fast, efficient deal at a price that worked for me).
I did all my research in advance, knew what I wanted when I got to the dealership, and kept the salesperson’s time down to what was required to test drive two cars. I also started the process at the end of the month, knowing that is when dealerships are most motivated to deal. My salesperson was a nice person who correctly identified me as a low-maintenance, no-hassle bargain shopper. I communicated my expectations and the deal I wanted from the start. My salesperson was also new, knew nothing about the vehicle, and was unable to make the deal over the phone. I was informed that I had to come in before an agreement could be made as to price. No doubt this was a directive handed down by the general manager. Since this dealership was convenient and had the car I wanted, and because I wanted to give this salesperson the sale, I agreed to come in -- after restating my desire not to be met with all the old-school selling techniques.
Upon arrival at the dealership I was met by the “sales trainer” and from there all the expected shenanigans began: ex. Take control of the “up” (customer) by making them take another test drive, start off with a “best deal” price $1,000 over the lowest quote from the other dealership, haggle back and forth, question my knowledge of car pricing, call the other dealer’s integrity in question, multiple trips into the GM’s office, etc. Then I let slip that I had a trade-in and suddenly they were able to match the other dealer’s price. They came back with an offer of $4,000 on the trade-in, which is at least half the resale value. Repeated haggling continues, we get from $4,000 to $5,400 in three steps. I then state, “I need a minute to think about it, can we take a break while I step outside?” To which the sales trainer replies, “No.” At that point I had had enough, requested my keys back, wished all a good day, and left. The trainer told me I could not get a better deal anywhere and that I would be back.
He was half right – seven days later on the last day of the month I called the original sales person, apologized for the direction the deal had taken, and said that I was driving to the other dealership to buy the car (which I was), but that – in one last effort to keep the deal local – I would take the car at the price I wanted plus $6,000 for the trade-in, and on the condition that the sales trainer was not visible during the deal. Fifteen minutes later we had a deal. But even then – when I signed the final piece of paperwork -- they gave me the option to keep the installed dealer alarm (after telling me the factory alarm would not stop thieves) for a mere $650 discounted from $900+ because it would cost them money to remove it. When I pointed out that the factory option alarm had an MSRP of $359 they told me that theirs was a better alarm and all the cost was in installation labor. I declined – although I secretly feared that the dealer might be selling the addresses of under-alarmed customers to a ring of car thieves ;-). When I asked how long it would take to remove the alarm I was told it would only be five minutes, and in fact that’s how long it took. So apparently this Super Alarm is a bear to install, but really easy to get out.
In hindsight, it was a big hassle and if I did it again I would wait until a dealer who had the car I wanted gave me the quote I wanted by email. Or I could have saved some time in trade for a higher price through fitzmall.com or the like. Still, I made the deal that worked for me and now I have a sweet ride.
Lessons learned: (1) Get financing in advance from your credit union (I did) (2) Get cost information on vehicle and options from Edmunds.com and Consumerreports.org (3) Do your research in advance and know what you want to pay for the car, and how much time/energy you are willing to trade to get that price (4) Get multiple quotes online to establish a baseline negotiating price (5) Be willing to walk if the dealer is not willing to deal on your terms.
Dealerships will separate you from your money in five ways (1) Purchase price of vehicle (2) Options (3) Trade-in price for your old vehicle (4) Financing (5) Service. The first four are up to you to negotiate. With regards to financing, you really need to get that set up in advance. If you do it at the dealership it’s the last part of the deal and you will be tired and not in a position to negotiate. A good credit union can do as well or better than a dealer, unless there is special factory financing available. Either way, having a fall back position is where you want to start from. Don’t worry about cheating the dealer – they won’t sell you the vehicle unless there’s something in it for them. My only concern with regards to the dealership is to make a best effort to stick with the salesperson that gave me the test ride.
Continued in next post due to word count limit....
To wrap it up, I was not unrealistic in my expectations; the fact that I own a new 4Runner is proof of that. But I did want the best deal I could get and I communicated that up front. My goal was to get the best deal that month from a dealer who wanted to make that deal. I was willing to flex on the price if the dealer could show me – contrary to my research – that I was off base. In the end I went back with this dealer because the deal was almost there, the other dealer was 100 miles away (and might take the same haggle-ad-naseum approach), and I wanted to stick with the original sales person.
Good luck with your deal, and thanks to all the previous posters for the information that helped me make mine.
January 4, I traded my '01 Trooper LS 2WD w/70K on the clock (in great condition, BTW) for a new '06 Pathfinder LE 2WD (120 miles on the odo). Super Black w/tan leather. This is one great looking truck, and the folks at Champion Nissan in Katy, Texas, seriously rock!
MSRP = $34,345. Floor/cargo mats were the only factory option, and there were no dealer add-ons. Had all the extensive list of standard LE equipment, which includes a moonroof.
Sale Price = $30,204, after $1,000 rebate. They threw in a hitch ball and mount, front window tint and ashtray kit.
OTD = $27,393 after trade-in. That includes TTL of $1,795 and $1,395 for a 72/75,000 Security Plus Gold Preferred (Nissan) service agreement.
I probably could have got a couple thousand more for the Trooper by selling it myself. But, after getting NO inquiries on it after a week on THE used vehicle website, I bit the bullet.
I actually tried buying a new Toyota 4Runner from THE Toyota dealer in my neighborhood. Aside from their meat-market environment, that was such a miserable experience that I have sworn I will never set foot in another Toyota store! Their best deal on a similarly equipped Limited Demo w/5,200 miles, but no moonroof or extended service agreement, would have been $29,084 OTD. At that price, and with Toyota's incentive APR, I would have saved exactly $1,200 ($20 a month for 60 months) compared to the Pathy. But the lack of a moonroof ($900) and service agreement ($1400), and a penalty for the Demo miles (~$2600) offset that savings by roughly $3,700. And, I don't have to live with that Toyota dealer's poor sales and service reputation.
To cap it all off, my Toyota salesman called me at 8:30 p.m. New Years night to tell me that he and his sales manager decided to back out of my deal and sell the car to someone else, ignoring the fact that I had already signed all the necessary paperwork, including the finance contract with Toyota Motor Credit! I have since learned that my dealer's conduct and attitude is typical of Toyota dealers in general. If you doubt that statement, click here. I'm in Texas. Research dealers in your own state for more info.
I am one very happy camper! However, YMMV!
So far I love the vehicle, but my only regret is that I did not get all the option.
So I am now thinking of trading it in and getting a Limited, fully loaded model. Is this a dumb/stupid idea? Has anyone done this or have any experience along these lines?
Thanks.
MSRP was $35,705. Their actual selling price would have been a flat $33,000, without my trade, +TTL and any other fat they might bury in the paperwork (which they did). In the plus column, I would have gotten 1.9% APR financing for 60 months. That interest rate would have saved me about $2400 compared to the 5.75% I got on my Pathfinder. But, that barely offset the mileage penalty that I figure was due on the 4Runner (which they didn't consider), and I ended up with a NEW truck rather than a Demo.
At the end of the day, though, they couldn't have PAID ME to take the 4Runner!!
tonneau
Black Roof rack
17" alloy
Rr Spoiler
Running lamps
Moonroof
Carpet Mats
MSRP 34319
Invoice 31029
Sale price: 29029
So basically 2000 below invoice including the 1500 rebate.
MSPR = 27,635
Invc = 24,677 <===============
I saw on newspaper (Feb/2/2007):
2007, 4Runner, SR5, V6, PW, PDL, RUN BOARD, ROOF RACK
MSRP = 29,219
DISCOUNT = 4731
REBATE = 1500
NET COST = 22,988 <==============
Is this possible to buy a car UNDER invoice price ?????
I think at that price point, folks are buying the Lexus.
Thanks, Beach Rosie
Since 2003 I've been driving a Lexus ES, front drive, traction control, stability control. In looking back over these years I'm realizing it was a very good car on snowny roads. While it certainly hasn't gripped the road like the 4Runner did (at least like my fading memory thinks it used to grip the road!), the traction control has gotten me up hills and the stability control has never let the back end slide.
So now I am wondering just how valuable 4 wheel drive is in a 4Runner with traction and stability control with a driver who is careful in snow, is able to leave work early when it starts snowing, and sticks to main roads in bad weather.
Does anyone have experience with both 2W and 4W drive 4Runners in snowy roads? Just how valuable is the 4W drive?
Thanks in advance!
Don't forget, the ES is FWD; it's snow handling has absolutely nothing to do with a RWD SUV. A 2wd 4runner is RWD (right?)
I am Philly area, and would like to buy a 4Rummer SPORTS w/o moon roof to save $$$. But my local Toyota dealer told me that SPORTS always come with the moon roof. Is that true? Has any of you guys got a SPORTS w/o moon roof? Thanks!
Cheers,
Peter
a dozen listings in area for 2006 sr5 4runners, ~15,000 miles, for ~$26,000
doesn't seem like alot of depreciation. especially since there are 2007 sr5 for $25,000. what's is the most I can reasonably expect dealers to come down from that price?
Any feedback on price? Any options I should insist on getting besides this basic setup? I'm a basic, casual person...do not need glamour...
The main reason I am getting this unit is safety AND the back window rolls down to provide cross venting for the dogs. Woof! :shades: