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Towing over 4,000 lbs.
I will be buying a truck (ideally a Toyota) by the
end of this year, which will be followed up with
the purchase of a boat. The truck will also be my
primary vehicle so it needs to be reliable and
somewhat practical. The boat will weigh just under
3,900 lbs (without trailer) and the Tacoma V6 has a
towing limit of 5,000 lbs. While I wouldn't be
exceeding that, is it wise to approach this limit
so closely? I'd be getting the locking
differential, but don't really want to get the 4x4
since it costs more (in purchase price, gas mileage
and maintenance) though it would help me at the
slippery boat ramp--any input here?
If y'all think it foolish for me to go this route
with the truck, how about if I get put a TRD super
charger on it? That would increase the hp from 190
to 256 and the torque from 220 lb.-ft. to 267
lb.-ft. I realize that this add-on probably puts me
in the price range of a Tundra V8 (245 hp, 315
lb.-ft.) or maybe an F-150, but unless that's
absolutely necessary, I'm against a truck that
size.
Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
end of this year, which will be followed up with
the purchase of a boat. The truck will also be my
primary vehicle so it needs to be reliable and
somewhat practical. The boat will weigh just under
3,900 lbs (without trailer) and the Tacoma V6 has a
towing limit of 5,000 lbs. While I wouldn't be
exceeding that, is it wise to approach this limit
so closely? I'd be getting the locking
differential, but don't really want to get the 4x4
since it costs more (in purchase price, gas mileage
and maintenance) though it would help me at the
slippery boat ramp--any input here?
If y'all think it foolish for me to go this route
with the truck, how about if I get put a TRD super
charger on it? That would increase the hp from 190
to 256 and the torque from 220 lb.-ft. to 267
lb.-ft. I realize that this add-on probably puts me
in the price range of a Tundra V8 (245 hp, 315
lb.-ft.) or maybe an F-150, but unless that's
absolutely necessary, I'm against a truck that
size.
Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
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Comments
It's not just the engine's power which determines a vehicle's tow rating, you also have to factor in the transmission and suspension capabilities. If you tow a load over the vehicle's rating, you open yourself up to all sorts of legal liabilities (as well as voiding any vehicle drivetrain warranty).
And good luck trying to pull a 6000 lb load up a steep, slick boat ramp with a compact pickup. Even a full size 2WD pickup can have problems unless you get enough weight over the rear wheels.
I would definitely recommend a full size, long wheel base truck for your towing situation.
Doug ('99 Sierra 2500 ext cab, 6L, 4.1 axle)
I used a S-10 pickup and U-haul trailers on several cross country trips and the sway was hair-raising. My Ex borrowed it to move the other direction and wrecked it because of sway.
Most of the first person accounts I've read at www.dejanews.com (a newsgroup search site) reported a big difference in white-fingered driving after moving up to a longer wheelbase.
Let's assume that I'd approach, but not exceed, both the towing weight and the GCWR. The Tacoma has a wheelbase of 121.9 inches. The Tundra has a wheelbase of 128.3 (extra-cab, short bed--only configuration offered). Is this difference of under 7 inches going to make a noticeable difference in the stability? Is the wider stance important too?
I would definitely be getting the Tacoma tow package (including sway control) and the heavy-duty service package. And the trailer would have brakes. Although the full-size truck would be better, is there that big of a difference between the Tacoma and Tundra? (I'll end up buying whatever truck I need to for the boat, but I'm just trying to keep the truck as close to what I want as possible.)
I have pulled loads like yours with my Chevy S10. It can do it, but you may find yourself driving in 3rd gear to hold 50 mph into a strong headwind, or up a hill.
I know from personal experience, that even if you don't exceed the manufacturer's tow rating, you can still get into trouble.
I had a Ford Ranger rated to tow 5,000 lbs. I was pulling a 4,000 lb. (wet weight) travel trailer at 60 mph, and the sway got out of hand. It sent me into a sideways slide, and when I steered into the skid attempting to regain course, it snapped sideways the other direction - doing this back and forth "cracking the whip" six times before I was able to regain control. It was all over the highway. I damn near went sailing off a cliff. Needless to say, that scared the living @#$% out of me and my passenger. I was very lucky the trailer didn't roll over and take the truck with it, or hit any other cars.
Compact trucks may have enough power to pull that weight. But in my opinion have too short a wheelbase, and aren't heavy enough to keep the rig safely planted in your own lane when you approach freeway speeds.
The #1 thing you can do for towing stability is go for a long wheelbase. Now, I wouldn't tow anything over 2,000 lbs. with a compact truck at freeway speeds.
I tow a larger trailer now (about 6,000 lbs) and pull it with a one ton longbed crew cab. I know that's overkill, but it's stable as the Rock of Gibralter.
I think the design of the trailer has as much to do with stability, not just the truck.
A longer wheelbase truck should help stability, all other things being equal.
Besides, Tundra is made in Indiana. And I don't plan on having kids.:)
I know the Big truck fans will say that is an oxymoron. My loaded 4x2 is I believe rated to tow around 6700# and I have the 2000# payload package as well. All in all I believe it to be a potent hauler of moderate sized loads in a small package
have looked at dodge 3500 dully and ford 350. learned that the f350 is not the f350 of old, even as a dully. seems one needs to step up to the f450 to get what used to come with the 350.
add to the mix that sales persons claim that i can get what i need with a gmc 2500 (uh-huh???).
anyone care to offer an opinion on what i should get.
btw - no major off road or steep mountain roads.
In any case, the F250 (superduty?) should be able to pull this much though the 350 is better.
What is missing in the F350 that you think you need? The 350 with dualies (and probably SRW) shoud work just fine.
I know a guy who often hauls 20,000# (or more) in his dodge 3500 w/cummins, and his only complaint is that the transmission doesn't have enough gears so he can't get to the next gear on a hill. His only worry is if the DOT were ever to stop him, his license doesn't allow that much weight.
BTW, are you sure about that 6000# weight on the trailer? It sounds like maximun loaded weight, I can't imangine a horse trailer that heavey. A camper trailer yes, but not a horse trailer.
The F350SD should work great for your purposes. My buddies V10 will pull our jointly owned travel trailer around like a breeze. Go with the 4.30 rear end.
Just bought a Ram3500 4x4 diesel and had the BD brake installed along with the "Auto Loc" to keep the converter locked up when using the brake. So far looks pretty good.
Dewdo
My great uncle who had this problem had to put spaces on the axel of his older horse trailer, the horses just have to step higher. He has one of the first '99 superduties though, as I recall Ford has changed the default hight and a new F250 might fit.
When you are towing heavy stuff, long wheel base a dualies are better. You can of course get by with near maximun weight, but if you are close going with both DRW and LWB will make the whole system more stable. Depending on your driving skill this might be niessicary. As I recall the difference will only be a could thousand on a 30,000 truck. If your doing the rodeo circuit than you should do the f350 LWB DRW, if you are just taking the horses to the local fair once a year there is no need.
Setup like this the rear dropped 3" at the receiver. This puts the headlights at the top of the trees... not good.
I bought the 1500 because the older C20 w/heavy suspension just road too rough the 300 days of the year I was not towing. So I was wondering what you would recommend to solve the sagging issue. I don't want to make the ride any worse (its still a truck!) than it is now when the truck is empty. But I need more rear-axle capacity when towing.
Suggestions comments welcome. Any websites I should look at?
Overall the truck had plenty of power (w/3.73) and was very stable. The trailer is a 16' dual axle flatbed, total trailer weight (last weekend) about 3500lb. A few times a year I'll push this to 6500lb. But 500-800 on the tongue is consistent.
-Jim
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