Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
BMW 3-Series 2006
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Nor will it provide the level of driving enjoyment or resale if you own.
Coming home with my adaptive xenons on (it's dark outside). Switch was on "A".
When I arrive to the end of my drive way, I turn the lights off, kill the engine, and take the key out. Come out of the car, shut the door, and I notice my driver side tail lights are on. Go to the front, and notice the cirle lights are on on driver side only. All lights are off on passenger side. Go figure.
I get into the car again, turn engine on, put lights again on "A", turn them off, kill engine, go out only to see everything is back to normal - all lights are off.
I am guessing I did the sequence somewhat different the first time, and the logic in program has a bug that my sequence picked up.
Not a problem that I can't live with, as long the frequency is low, and is always solvable.
DL
How does leather affect driving enjoyment? As for resale, if you spend $1500 for leather interior, and then get $300 for it at trade-in, how is that good?
Examine both in person and decide for yourself if it's worth it.
It's feature for parking on the side of the road and leaving some lights on so someone doesn't plow into the car while sitting there.
You probably bumped the lever when exiting the car. Go out and try it.
2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
This car has so many features that I am finding them out accidentally, and thanks to the forum readers, like you, to explan that feature. Thanks !
Is there any other car out there with so many little little features. Amazing BMW. Loving every minute of driving it so far.
I agree with everyone else regarding wear. The leatherette holds up really well. I have very little noticable wear on my car that is 3.5 years old and I have never used any kind of leather/vinyl conditioner. You'd be hard-pressed to have leather look as nice as my leatherette even if you maintained and conditioned your leather.
As for manual seats, if you're the only driver then you'll set the seats once and never have to worry about it again. In that situation, power seats are a waste of money. If you are constantly swapping drivers then power seats with memory might be of more value.
With resale, someone above said it right.... You'll spend a whole bunch to have the leather, but you'll only get back a very small fraction upon resale. Hardly any kind of investment. Besides, don't buy the car for the next person... buy it for yourself!
Yes, plus if you add features you don’t want you may end up financing (unless you have a pile of cash under your bed) a larger amount; although in monthly terms it probably doesn’t add very much.
I think for most models (and manufacturers), that the “base” model holds more of a percentage of it’s value than a loaded one with that said, I’ve never been able to forgo the options (usually fully loaded).
Now my dilema. I've always been a BMW fan and am still leaning that direction. But my wife likes the look/feel of the Mercedes better. I have to admit the Mercedes looks nice and feels nice too.
Anyone on the forum have any comments on these two vehicles? Are there not so obvious things I should compare?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
I'm a big BMW fan myself, but if I thought the M-B was a better car for the money, then I buy the Merc and drive around in it wearing a BMW baseball cap, or t-shirt, or both.
That's my $0.02.
As for whether you should get the leather or not...If YOU, and only YOUUUUU, like the look and feel of it, then by all means GET IT!! You're gonna be spend $40,000 for a car and you're worried about $1k??? If you get the premium package i figure leather would only cost you about $1100 (cus of all the items i mentioned above). So even if you do resell it later on, you'll only b losing 600-700. But in the mean time you have the enjoyment of leather. Oh if you're getting a 330, go with leather. a 330i with 'ette is rare- it might hurt you when you resell it...
More comfortable (to me) + aromatic = more enjoyment.
On a prestigious car, such as a BMW, to ME it is worth it. Agreed this is subjective.
On a prestigious car, such as a BMW, to ME it is worth it. Agreed this is subjective."
This discussion reminds me of my feeling of upset and surprise that a car in this price range has as costly options certain things I expected to be included as standard features. Leather seats is an example.
My father-in-law has the leatherette is his '03 325ci. I have the leather in my '06 330i. While the look is similar, the feel is not. Leather is softer and more comfortable. Whether that's worth the extra money is an individual decision. I personally found the leatherette seats to be too firm. So did my wife. Long-term durability of the leather wasn't a concern for us because we are leasers.
So, how much maintenance did I apply to maintaining the leather on my cars? None, zero, zip, nada. The factory treatments applied to the leather in modern cars seems to be very effective at keeping them soft and supple and crack free for many years and miles.
If you are a person that likes the "look and feel" of leather and can justify the price difference, then my recommendation is, "Go for it!"
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you look at the BMWUSA site and do a “build your 330i” there is quite a difference between the Monaco Blue Metallic it shows you...and a "real" picture
Build
Actual
For pictures, film type and digital camera type play a role as well.
-Paul
The Monaco Blue Metallic on the “build your own” made me go “yuk” the actual made me go “wow”.
I guess the easy way would be to go down to the dealer and seem them.
Also, when it comes time to replace these tires, can I simply opt to not purchase the more expensive RFT and have a local tire shop (I usually go to the local Costco Tire Center) to put on regular tires?
I remember buying tires that would last for 50,000 miles with regular rotations and for only $80 to $90 each for my old car. Whats going on with these new tires?
Charles
So, I placed an order with my BMW dealer back on 11/27, and I just recently got my order number to track my vehicle from the dealer. The status still shows "ON ORDER". This being the start of my third week, does this seem normal to you guys?
Thanks.
I don't think you can get by with a $80 tire to fully realize your BMW's driving dynamics in my opinion. Just remember the only contacts you have between your car and the pavement are the four small patches of rubber. So I suggest you get a decent set when replacement time comes regardless RFT or regular type.
1. What is tire fee? How much are they in Los Angeles California?
2. How much is the tire insurance? What all things does it cover?
3. If I want 325i without SP but with 17" tires, how much will I have to pay?
Thanks
You may save some money (not much money) with non-RFT replacement tires when the time comes, but then you'll have to address the no spare tire issue. You might want to check your lease agreement for a possible prohibition against returning the car with non-RFTs. Wouldn't that present an issue for re-sale since there is no spare tire?
In any event, RFT or non-RFT, I think it'll cost a lot more than $80 to $90 for a quality replacement tire for your 325i. You're probably looking at double that price range.
Ummm, well that depends upon what type of tires you buy. In the case of the E90 330i SP, a new set of OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE050A RunFlat tires costs $1,106 from TireRack.com, however, a set of very competent Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 tires is only $478. For that price you could buy two complete sets of Kumhos for the price of the OEM rubber and still have $150 left over for a spare donut or two.
If/when I end up with a RunFlat equipped BMW, you can bet your sweet bippie that I'm not springing for replacement RunFlats unless they do in fact turn out to be only $13 per tire more than the GetsFlat equivalent. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Hi Shipo,
I think that the more relevant comparison would be (a) the cost of the same set of Bridgestones in non-RFT as compared to $1,106 for a set of RFTs, and (2) the cost of the same set of Kumbos in RFT as compared to $478 for non-RFTs. Only then will we see the real difference in cost between RFTs and non-RFTs. In my case, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the price difference was only $52 for a set of winter tires.
Best regards,
David D
Fortunately the Bridgestone Potenza RE050A tires are in fact available in both versions, the RunFlat type costing the previously posted $1,106 and the GetsFlat type coming in $252 cheaper at $854. Given that the only performance Bridgestone tires that I've consistently heard rave reviews on are the Potenza S-03 Pole Position, I'd be more inclinded to use them at $920 per set (still nearly $200 cheaper than the reportedly less capable RE050As). The reason that I included the Kumhos in my previous post is that I have heard anecdotal evidence that suggests that even though they are less expensive, they are at least as capable as the RE050As. Go figure. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
Hey Pat, glad you liked the "GetsFlat" reference. ;-)
Here's what we have so far for direct comparables.
1. Dunlap Winter Sport M3. For a set of tires, RFTs cost $52 more than GFTs. A rather nominal premium for RFTs.
2. Bridgestone Potenza RE050A. For a set of tires, RFTs cost $252 more than GFTs. A substantial price difference indeed.
RFT = Run Flat Tire
GFT = Gets Flat Tire (thanks for coining a wonderful new acronym!)
If true, that's a significant factor, at least to me. Not only do they cost more in the first place & weigh more (unsprung weight), but they're disposable as opposed to repairable.
Spoke to an "expert" about this at Discount Tire. He assured me the RF's are fixable with the same caveats as non-RF's. Whether the sidewall or close to sidewall is where the tire was damaged is the determining factor..
Chicago Tribune, Published August 28, 2005
Q. My 2006 BMW 325i sedan came with 205/55-R16 all-season Bridgestone Turanza EL 42 RFT run-flat tires. Due to a low tire-pressure warning, I drove carefully at 45 m.p.h. a distance of 10 miles to the dealer to have it repaired. The dealer told me once the tire has been driven in a low-pressure condition, it cannot be repaired and must be replaced at a cost of $229.
What good are these run-flat tires if they cannot be repaired? Is there any alternative to this, other than replacing all four with quality standard tires and carrying a 12-volt powered tire inflator pump and a container of tire sealant? Would standard tires of the correct size work on my wheels?
R.K., Chicago
A. Sure, you could replace the run-flats with conventional tires, but they would cost nearly the same. Also consider that you lose the advantage of being able to drive the car to a safe place should the tire go flat in the middle of nowhere or that you can get home from dinner at Morton's without getting dirty. When a conventional tire goes flat, you will ruin your expensive alloy wheel in less than a mile if you ride on it.
As for repairing your current tire, we turned to Bill VanderWater, consumer products manager of sales engineering for Bridgestone/Firestone North America. First, he told us that BMW's position on all damaged tires is replacement, not repair. He also reminded us that there is no room in your BMW for a spare or a jack should you go with conventional tires.
Finally, he said there are special techniques (and training) required to safely repair a run-flat, and it is contingent on the damage being in a repairable place on the tire.
Our suggestion? Bite the bullet and buy a tire.
My understanding is that once you drive on a "flat" RFT, you have to replace it. Some people in this forum have reported repairing RFTs, but I think you have to catch it right away and not drive on it. BMW recommends replacement every time (whether or not you drive on it), but speculation is that they do so for liability concerns and not because RFTs are incapable of being repaired.
RFTs will safely get you to the nearest BMW dealer or tire place, and then empty your wallet when you get there. :mad:
Perhaps I should buy a set of four tires & wheels from Tirerack to use for everyday commuting. On my (sadly) infrequent, but very enjoyable, 3-5K mile solo driving vacations around the West, I could put the OEM wheels back on for max performance & pleasure, and throw one of the commuter sets in the car for a spare. Even run-flats may find their limits on some of the roads I drive in Nevada and Eastern Oregon, where it can be 120 miles between places with open gas stations, even in the daytime.
The commuter tires (I like Kumhos also & run them on my present car, after a set of Michelin Pilot AS) could be chosen for wear & the wheels for appearance that pleases me.
I just had my winter wheels and tires put on, and carrying a spare around in the trunk would eat up almost half the available space. I fit two wheels and tires in the trunk and two in the back seat. I carry a can of Fix-a-Flat and a 12v inflator so that if I get a low-pressure warning, I have a fighting chance of getting pressure back into the RFT so that it can be repaired...
But then I came to realize that it is an extremely rare occurrence to get a flat -- maybe once every 3-5 years. And, to be a big problem at all, it would have to happen on one of those rare occasions when I happened to be in the middle of nowhere -- maybe 2-3 times a year. I finally realized that it's just not worth worrying about. I mean, I would rather have GFT's and a spare, but it's not that big a deal.
As several people have said, you can carry that Fix-A-Flat in a can if you're really worried. But one thing I don't get is why you need the 12volt inflator. Doesn't the can of Fix a Flat have enough compressed air to reinflate the tire?
Jim
That may be true but I’ve had 5 flats in the past 5 years normal roads, not driving through a construction site or anything.
We’ll see what 06 has in store.
Maybe. If I can tell it's a slow leak, I'd rather not use the Fix-a-Flat, and just inflate the tire with the compressor. And if the Fix-a-Flat works to seal the tire, it may still have very low pressure. It's just another tool to have at my disposal.
has very bad reviews on the Tirerack Board.
They list the rtf tire for 165.00 $.Sofar there are very few choises in these tires if you can even find them.
Any one out there find them also noisy ??????
I've heard this in several places on these boards, but I'm not sure how much of this is due to the run-flat construction vs. the things that can make any particular tire noisy. Even with non-RFTs, there's a wide variance in noise from one brand/model to another, mostly having to do with tread pattern.
For what it's worth, though, I would guess that, all other factors being equal, RFTs would tend to transmit more road vibration -- noise -- to the car due to the necessary stiffness of their sidewalls. Only a guess, but this might be why many people notice the difference.