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what kind of vehicle you bought,is this a passat 2.oT with package1+winter package or just a basic passat.thanks and let me know
i paid almost 25980 in louisville kentucky.
thanks
http://www.biodieselgear.com/documentation/
I'm thrilled. Today I saw regular for $3.23, and I got diesel for $2.69.
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html#2svo
also beware the 'bucking' issue, on lift-throttle decel or feather-throttle cruising - try it on a test drive. our dealer service dept reports "they all do that". it's unacceptable to some drivers. apparently it's due to US emission/EGR requirements. some folks have hacked an egr restrictor plate that supposedly eliminates the bucking, but it causes the computer to throw a code - technically it's an illegal emissions modification. supposedly the euro version of the same car gets substantially better mpg due to less stringent euro emissions requirements. something like that. or so i've read...
I'm hoping the six speed box of the P6 will produce the 60 mpg I currently manage (50 mph), as this week diesel hit $8.50 a gallon up here in Scotland and have no doubt it will: the increased torque meant that I had the demonstrator car toddling along urban streets at 30 mph in sixth gear with no protest.
At the end of November I'll let you know if it lives up to the hype.
Bob
The US (like Germany) has many mountainous snowy roads.
Last year you could get the TDi or 4-Motion, but not together - Lame.
:confuse:
the bucking is also "normal" as in "they all do that" - apparently VW can't or won't fix it. please do give your dealer crap about it however. it's not necessarily related to shifting - instead it occurs on 'lift-throttle' or 'idling/coasting' along. there are lots of theories & posts about the bucking on tdiclub , some dudes have apparently fixed it by customizing an "egr restrictor plate". technically that violates federal/EPA law i think. and it causes the ECM to throw a code. but apparently it does fix the bucking. sigh.
another workaround/prevention is to just force the car to run in a lower gear, either by shifting manually or putting it in "3" or "4". once it bucks, dropping a gear will not necessarily stop the bucking however - you must have it in the lower gear to begin with.
as for the accel, i do believe that flooring it does provide the best acceleration - there is quite a turbo lag from a dead stop however. maybe it's not turbo lag - maybe it's the ecm programmed that way. the engine has lots of torque, maybe too much, so that fuel has to be metered slowly when starting from a dead stop.
I am not real happy with Lithia vw. service. they are not very knowledgable.
been waiting 2 months to get a fix on my bucking problem.
when it's running right it is great
Dave in Reno
Mike, fellow Renoite.
Dave-I'm in the n. valleys near red rock
else has tried B-20 fuel. Was there any problems burning biodiesel with the newer engines?
I have an '05 TDi with 15K on it. About 85% of the fuel burned has been B-20, and I have not had any problems (Except, on one tank full, I experieinced some hard starting, but that went away after refueling so I chalked it up to bad/old fuel). Average economy about 36 MPG (mix of highway & city driving, fairly agressive too).
I always add DieselKleen cetane boost on fill-up (buy at Wally-world: Gray bottle in summer, White bottle in winter - this is NH so anything to help prevent gelling with B-20 or DinoDiesel is well worth the $$$).
My understanding is that you should not notice any differences in the short term (and I haven't). I am not sure about long term issues, if there are any. I do know the B-20 fuel is a good solvent so frequent switching can lead to a clogged fuel filter as residues from the DinoDiesel are removed form inside of the tank and lines. That is why i try to stick with B-20 and only get the Dino on trips where it is not available.
Good luck.
FYI I started experiencing the "bucking" at about 100k on the odometer. Otherwise a dream to drive compared to the other cars I have had in the past.
Message #947 Re: Biodiesel [sneezerjake] by mrjette
I have an '05 TDi with 15K on it. About 85% of the fuel burned has been B-20, and I have not had any problems (Except, on one tank full, I experieinced some hard starting, but that went away after refueling so I chalked it up to bad/old fuel). Average economy about 36 MPG (mix of highway & city driving, fairly agressive too).
I always add DieselKleen cetane boost on fill-up (buy at Wally-world: Gray bottle in summer, White bottle in winter - this is NH so anything to help prevent gelling with B-20 or DinoDiesel is well worth the $$$).
My understanding is that you should not notice any differences in the short term (and I haven't). I am not sure about long term issues, if there are any. I do know the B-20 fuel is a good solvent so frequent switching can lead to a clogged fuel filter as residues from the DinoDiesel are removed form inside of the tank and lines. That is why i try to stick with B-20 and only get the Dino on trips where it is not available.
Good luck.
I just bought a used 2000 VW Passat, but the dealer only gave me one valet key, no master keys, no key tag, so I have no idea how to replace a remote key. Please help!!! Thanks so much!
Today, I noticed when I accelerate either from a start or a cruise speed the car shuddered VIOLENTLY. After reaching the new crusing speed, it smooths out until I have accelerate quickly again.
I spoke with dealer and they're stumped and want to see it in the morning.
Any ideas out there so I can go in armed with knowledge?
Thanks in advance.
even so: blocking the EGR might fix it, as described on the tdiclub . i haven't tried it on my 05...
for your 05: fuel filter clogged? bad tank o fuel?
did you have the fuel filter swapped at 20k as the maintenance sched calls for?
My first thought was a bad tank but this appeared to be a progressive problem that "peaked" today.
While I didn't eyeball it specifically, I have been religious about my maintenance schedules and I did have the 20,000 done on time and can only take it for granted that the fuel filter was done according to plan.
I recently bought a '96 VW tdi on ebay, and have been running it on biodiesel for a few weeks. It was never clear that I needed to replace the filter, though it seemed like it might have been losing power, so I bought one but didn't put it in. Today I drove it WAAYYYYY up into the mountains of West Virginia (I am building a house up here, I'm a builder), and it died on me. Stopped running, and when I cranked it it didn't even catch. I swapped out the filter (filled with biodiesel first), and now it catches, but won't run more than a few seconds. It SEEMS like the longer I wait between starts, the more likely it is to run as long as 4-5 seconds.
I looked underneath, since I was concerned I might have crushed a fuel line on a rock or something (I'm 2 miles into the woods on a very very bad road), but I don't see a problem (it seems to have a blue plastic fuel line, unless I'm missing something).
I am concerned that since it's pretty cold up here (around freezing) the fuel might have iced up. It's going to get a lot colder tonight. Fortunately, the person for whom I'm building the house has a cabin, which I'm in now, and I can get on the internet. I will go out tomorrow morning and try to get it running: if anyone has any ideas, I would be SO GRATEFUL. The best I can think of is to try to get a big heater and heat up the engine/fuel. The other thing that comes to mind is that I have to do something after changing the fuel filter: repressurize the system or something. I'll try to search for info on that.
Anyway, thanks for any help anyone can offer. I'll check for responses in a few hours, or maybe in the morning.
Keith
PS: this is not a joke. You can see my web site (which stinks, but hey...) at earthsunenergy dott comm. I really could use any help you can offer! Thanks so much.
Keith yes your 96 TDI's problem could be fuel gelling combined with a semi-plugged fuel filter. i'd be surprised
if gelling were the problem this early in winter - what is the low daily temp where you are? many TDIers try to time the fuel filter swap to be at beginning of winter to help avoid possibly gelling issues.
obviously your car is outside now and not garaged. i think using a heater outdoors to try to warm the fuel is possibly dangerous - avoid. the gelling could be at the tank/fuel-pump/valve-thingy or it could be in the filter or both. or elsewhere in fuel lines. is the car parked in the sun? maybe wait until warmest time of day and try it? also there is a way to open the fuel filter and put
stanadyne/anti-gel directly into it.
the 2001-2003 TDIs had a fuel gelling problem with a too-small fuel-valve under the rear seat - so warming that area could help un-gel/un-crystallize the fuel.
oh, and if you suspect gelling problems you NEED the white bottle anti-gel power-service or official VW "stanadyne" additive! personally i only use it if temps go below 10F: after each fuel stop dump in 4 or 6 oz of power-service.
hey, your web site looks fine, dude, don't be so hard on yourself! you guys get actual sun energy down there in MD?! nice! it's so rare that we get anywhere near half the full 1KW/square-meter in new england. waaah! unfortunately the math for "rain power" is looking even worse than that for solar/photovoltaics.
Just as a follow up: I went to dealership today and it was diagnosed to be the fuel filter...it turns out they didn't change it at the 20,000 mile check since their spec sheet didn't call for it on the diesel until 40,000. After today it is now on their 20k check!
Car runs like new now.
Thanks again for your input.
Any thoughts or anyone else have this issue???
My TDI has 64K miles on it. I had changed the fuel filter at around 50K. Dealer thought it might be the fuel filter but that didn't make sense to me since at higher RPMs the problem went away - I would expect it to be even worse if it was the fuel filter starving the engine. They checked it anyway and while the measured flow at the cylinders was off a little, it turned out to be a very dirty EGR valve.
I asked the tech if this is going to be a chronic problem and should I have the cleaning performed routinely at a certain mileage. He was honest and said I might never have the problem again. Thing is, they all get dirty - that's the nature of the fuel - but apparently that doesn't mean we're all going to have the problem. Apparently the valve got dirty in a way that caused it to stick. Perhaps a piece of carbon stuck on the valve and it was kept from opening and closing correctly.
This is the second time the tech had seen this problem - the first one had your mileage (do you live in NH?). Based on his experience and your mileage (assuming you're having the same issue), he's right - it doesn't appear to be mileage-related.
It's possible that fuel contributed to the problem. I had to change gas stations for a time while my regular station was undergoing tank maintenance and this was right after I changed my fuel filter. In the previous 18 months I had the car before changing stations, I never had this problem. So, it's tempting to blame it on them but it could be coincidental. No way to know.
I'm back using the previous dealer again so hopefully I won't see this again. But, a recommendation to everyone: dealer charged me $45 to look at the fuel filter. If you're not due for a filter and you're having this problem, ask them to check the EGR first. As it was, the whole thing set me back $221. I had them change the fuel filter since it was close anyway. But the labor to clean the valve was around $100. I thought diesels were supposed to be less expensive to run?!
Anyone know of any sort of additive that would help avoid this problem?
I'm sorry officer, I HAD to do it....
Next time I'm at the dealer I'll try to get a copy of the bulletin and post it on this forum. I'll wait and see before I put in BioDiesel in my 05 Wagon. Too bad because I'm a tree hugger... :surprise:
1. The accelerator module (your gas pedal electronics)
2. In your gauges (they have to replace them all)
3. Your wiring harnesses (all of them under the hood have to be "cut out and overlayed")
4. The interior carpeting must be replaced because it pools under the carpet.
My situation is not great. I have 60,000 miles on my 19 month old TDI so VW is saying it is out warranty. The bill is $4,375 to fix it all.
I would have them check this.