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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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  • leejrflaleejrfla Member Posts: 8
    Can you find out what the fix was that your dealer did? I have an 06 CRD with 34k on it and have big issues with the fuel economy. I have never even at hwy speeds 70-75 have never achieved over 21mph city 18-19. When I purchased this vehicle the claims were 22-27 hwy I guess that must have been at 45 mph. I keep up on fluid changes etc.. Please let us all know what type of fuel consumption changes you see with this fix. I had the F37 completed torque converter and transmission pump along with a reprogram of the computer. As far as the fuel ecomnomy no changes at all.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Nescosmo,

    The dealer is Arrigo Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep @ 6500 Okeechobee Blvd West Palm Beach.

    They will be hearing from me.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Okay,

    Now for some questions.

    1. Are you a lead foot when you accelerate from a stop?
    2. Have you changed the air filter yet?
    3. Which oil do you use and how often do you change it?
    4. Is the trans full of fluid (IOW is it full?)
    5. Are the hoses to and from the CAC in good order?
    6. Have you ever cleaned the boost sensor?
    7. Have you ever blown the EGR valve's "nose"?

    I generally travel at speeds not greater than 65 MPH. Once you start pushing this baby past 2000 RPM it starts eating fuel. At 75 MPH cruise I get about 25 MPG. At 65 MPH I get 28 MPG and at 60 - 62 MPH I get 30 - 31 MPG. I also use cruise control as this little guy loves to run.

    As for the fix, they changed out the torque converter and checked everything else. The TC had failed but was not blue as I was first told.

    Are you in Florida? On a trip back from southern FL, we were greeted by a couple in a white CRD near Jacksonville on Route 95. Might you be them?
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Today I saw a Grey CRD in Orlando at Orange Ave going south and turn on Sand Lake rd to the air port.
    Please respond if you are around this forum.

    Nescosmo.
  • olegrizzolegrizz Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 CRD and getting pretty much the same gas milage as winter2. And this is for highway in sothern Kentucky and Tenn.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Member Posts: 59
    Got EGR number two at 47000 miles (first one was at 18000).

    It runs differently (better) and strangely, the shift points have migrated from 62 to 61 and from 53 to 52. When I get it into the highest lockup it now stays in that gear all the way down to 56-57 mph. The lockup at 61 used to be a little bump and now it is smoother.

    Mileage is the same as before.

    So the EGR situation can apparently affect the transmission shifting.
  • wvav8torwvav8tor Member Posts: 12
    Does not seem to be much interest here anymore but I thought I would post my feelings here about my recently purchased 2006 CRD Limited. In short I love it. Just got home from a picture taking tour of the fall colors around West Virginia which included about 65% two lane roads going up and down the mountains and about 35% interstate. Close to 400 miles with an amazing 28.8 miles per gallon, I truly believe straight interstate would deliver 30+

    dusty
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    This engine is fed with fuel according to a predicted acceleration under a given load. When the EGR doesn't react promptly, the acceleration isn't right and the shifting sequence is 'hesitating'. Mine has over 80,000 miles and shifts perfectly because I got rid of my EGR a long time ago. CO2 emission and fine dust particles are lower than advertised according to technical inspection every 2 years :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Does the inspection include measurement of NOx (Oxides of Nitrogen)? The EGR is used to reduce that pollutant.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Not yet, my model year 2003 is just at the limit :blush:
    I don't have any Lambda sensor before and/or after my catalytic element. Mine is only a diesel :blush:
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    need help i have a 2005 crd, at 45k my battery died and was replaced , at that time the dealer said the charging circuit was fine putting out 13.6 volts and it was likely a bad battery, well now at 90k second battery to completly fail, replaced battery myself and measured 14.5 volts on the battery when running. read the service manual and it says these spiral type batteries should not be charged at more than 14.4 volts. Can anyone with the same vehicle let me know what there battery is charching at or please provide any insight why I am losing a battery every 45k,Thanks for any help.
  • diesel_farmerdiesel_farmer Member Posts: 32
    My original Optima spiral AGM battery was replaced at around 20k miles on a recall of the battery with a Mopar spiral AGM battery. The Mopar spiral AGM battery lasted less than 2 years and I tried to get it replaced under the battery warranty but was told by Chrysler that it was covered under the 3 year 36k mile warranty since it was a recall replacement. (Anyone find any logic in that please let me know!) The dealer wanted $180 installed for another Mopar spiral AGM battery so I told them to piss off and went to Auto Zone and bought a $100 8 year battery that has the same specs as the $180 Mopar spiral AGM battery and the $160 OPTIMA Red Top spiral AGM battery. At the time my 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel had 80k miles on it. It now has 91k miles on the clock.

    Here are the OPTIMA specs:

    Group Number: 34 (9002-002)
    RedTop®; Battery; Group 34; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 110; Ampere Hour 50; Top Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.; BOXED;

    Here are the Auto Zone Gold-Duralast for a 2006 Jeep Liberty 4WD
    flat plate battery specs:

    O.E. group size: 34 *** 800 cold cranking Amps (1000 cranking Amps) *** -> 3 year free replacement
    Duralast Gold Battery

    With 3 year free replacement and 8 year warranty, I do not see the logic in spending the additional money on a AGM battery from either OPTIMA or Mopar. Do you?
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    A previous blog message suggests that if you have a factory installed trailer hitch and plug that juice is contantly flowing and this may contribute to the battery failure. I had one battery replacement in my 06 with only 42K miles and I make a point of removing the key from the ignition when parked, I don't know if this makes sense but its worked for me.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi fust,
    - 14.5 Volts is the "standard" voltage for charging a 6 element lead-acid battery.
    - 13.6 Volts is just not enough.

    I tried charging at 13.6 Volts to maintain an unused battery over the winter season; the battery seems to build up lead oxide on both anode and cathode plates. Using fresh or sufficiently dosed electrolyte doesn't help either. The result is waisted effort and need to buy a new battery.

    Older batteries were disassembled, their electrodes were cleaned (by hand) with a brush, then rebuilt, filled with new electrolyte and charged. This took half a day. I remember seeing this done here in Geneva in the late 60's. The make was OERLIKON and this is the make I use today :shades:

    When you buy a new battery, check it's voltage before connecting to the vehicle. It should range between 12.7 Volts and 13.3 Volts. So if you don't put the extra energy to build a 14.5 Voltage across the battery, it will chemically balance close to nil (due to lead oxide build up on all electrodes).

    My red top "Optima" didn't last long (~5 years). I chose a standard battery sized for a common diesel engine, with less cold cranking power (we use 100% synthetic oil this should not be an issue).
    Dims: 278x175x190 mm (OPTIMA was 254x172x200mm)
    Mounting type: B13
    70 Amp during 10 hours
    640 Amp cold cranking
    I prefer not to mention the cost :sick:

    OERLIKON and OPTIMA both belong to "Johnson Controls Inc" ;)
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    i have sold these batteries for over twenty years average life about five to ten years caribo is right 14.4 is what it should have the battery in the crd is smaller than the standard optima it was made smaller for some reason
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    THANK-YOU FOR ALL THE REPLYS I QUESS WHAT I AM ASKING IS THERE A CHANCE MY ALTERNATOR IS AT FAULT BECAUSE READING THE SERVICE MANUAL IT INDICATES THESE BATTERIES SHOULD NOT BE CHARGED AT MORE THAN 14.4 VOLTS AND WHEN I READ THE VOLTAGE ACROSS THE BATTERY WHILE THE TRUCK RUNNING IT WAS 14.6, DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHAT THE VOLTAGE ACROSS THERE BATTERY IS WHEN THERE VEHICLE IS RUNNING ,ANY RESPONSE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    14.6 Volts is what you should have when the engine is running ;)

    - Never forget there is always an error on a Voltmeter, even when it's a digital.
    - Normally there is a 'fused link' between the alternator and the battery.
    - You have an alternator problem when your lights dim near idle speed.
    - You have a battery problem when your lights dim during startup.

    Jeep Toledo plant may loose 1,800 jobs according to Financial news :sick:

    Last point: when you measure a certain voltage on the leads, this doesn't mean the inside of the battery is getting it ;)
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    I get 14.3 volts with motor running . I would not think your reading of 14.5 would be enough over to hurt your battery . Had you considered contacting OPTIMA BATTERY on your problem . Also the slight differance in the readng might be yor meter . Also the reading my meter gave may be slightly off also .
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1 they are loosing their jobs because the company do not want to put diesel engine in America any more. they want to loose money than to make money. My motto is loose some and make it in the volume sale, but it seems that dodge want to go down and close their doors. I think that we all are going to drive Indian vehicle in the not distance future.

    Nescosmo.......
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I have a compass, thermometer, volt meter unit plugged into the lighter.
    I have seen no higher than 13.5V on a cold morning and no lower than 12.8V on a hot day.
    I have not put a real meter on it to see if it is way out of spec, but those are my readings.
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    Hey guys, Ok I know that there is got to be a way to do a work around with the egr
    system. I also know that you can increase your mileage by bypassing this pain in the butt useless system. I currently run b-100 with a slight kick, and have logged
    30k on just bio. I have incorporated a hydrogen generator and external propane feed
    which has my milage up to 29 mpg. I think I can jack that up another 3 - 5 miles
    if I could get some helpfull ideas from folks that think outside the box like me.
    I have 2005 liberty crd. Thanks for any and all feedback in advance.
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    Were the voltage readings you gave with your motor running or not ? After reading your message I hooked my volt meter to the cigarette lighter . Before starting the motor I had 12.58 volts .After starting the motor it went to 14.3 and at highway speed it hit a max of 14.35 . I did the above test thinking you would have to be at driving speeds to really see what the charging rates would be especially after reading the repair manual and seeing the number of different components that could affect the voltage being put out .
  • i_ami_am Member Posts: 4
    Hello Nescosmo,

    I'm trying to locate the contact for the SEGR kits but they all reference the Lost KJ which has been down for quite a while. Can you post the contact or tell me where I can find it?

    Also, how difficult is the installation and what is the cost?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    My readings are with the engine running, however after I saw your question I put a good DVM on and found that the meter is .9 VDC low.
    Therfore my actual readings should be 14.9 and 13.7 . :surprise:
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    I am.....I do have the address and the name of the person that sell them and the person that can assemble it for you if you are not electronically incline.

    The person that assembles them is UFO and I think that he has one left. but the other person blogger name can not remember. but I do have his real name and I cannot give it to you here. If you want I can e mail you the name and address so you can wright him. But I cannot give his name over the air.

    So let me know. The last time I paid $80.00 disassemble and that was on 9/07 I think that now is more. and it is different.

    If when you wright to him he will give you UFO contact and UFO will assemble it for you for a price, which I think is well worth it. It will be assemble with cables and the plan where you have to install it and how to do it.

    Ever since I install this thing all of my problems went away, no more egr essue and no more smoke. that gadget is a miracle wander, the best money I have ever spend.
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    HAS ANY ONE REPLACED THERE OWN GLOW PLUGS , I HAVE AN OPEN CIRCUIT ON ONE OF MY GLOW PLUGS AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN, TRYING TO SAVE MONEY DOING IT MYSELF IT NOT TO BIG OF A JOB ,ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    There are 2 ways to shutdown the EGR.
    1. Disconnect the wire to the EGR
    2. Disconnect the MAF
    Either one will cause a MIL unless you do the mods listed in earlier posts.

    I have also found a way to get more power and as good if not better mileage.

    Take a T and put it in the feed from the vacuum reservoir to the first vacuum control on the turbo. Put another T on the turbo vacuum control line. Tie the 2 T's together.
    This ups the boost by an amount you can feel-I have not put a ScanGauge on it to document the difference yet.
    I have found that off the line response is much better and the engine has more power. :shades:
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    Anyone know what happend to the Jeep Lost site. I have not been able to get on in a while and get error msg whenever I try to log on
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    The glow plugs are not hard to change but it takes a little pick and shovel work to get at them. Error code indicated that it was the front plug that was bad on my CRD but it was actually the rear one. If it is the front plug removing the alternator provide access. If it’s the rear plug removing the fuel filter assembly provides access. If it’s one of the other two plugs then probably removing the CAC house and EGR flow control valve will provide access. Not much unused space under the hood of a CRD.

    The bad plug was not seized in the head and looked like new. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and had to buy a socket that was designed different than what I had to allow the plug to go into the socket. The plug is small and does not need to be very tight – should be able to sense when it is snug enough unless you know what the torque requirement is and you have a suitable wrench.

    I wasted some time trying to determine how to release the electrical connector from the end of the glow plug without damage. There is no trick. It just pulls off kind of hard.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Ran into same problem.
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    mdamick, my 2 hoses was replaced at 68000 miles when the pressure side of turbo
    blew out. what I did was kept the old ones and built new ones made of aluminium.
    Made the connection hook up with clamps and small sections of hose.
    I dont think these will ever blow or wear out again. I used .040 thick material
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Did you use a standard pipe bender?
    If so, did you have any problem with the 90 bend off the turbo?
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    I didnt use a bender I started with sheet material and ran it through a roller, turned
    it into the right diameter. then you take and wrap say craft paper around the 90
    deg. bend, now you have a model so to speak, and then use scissors to cut the
    paper 90 model. I cut mine into 3 sections then used the paper sections as flat
    pattern lay outs. these patterns are to be duplicated onto flat metal sheet.then by hand, hammer, bend, etc to get the radius. Fit all 3 sections together and weld.
    I tell its hard trying to explain in writing, but hopefully you can see how the process
    went.
  • tnilc99tnilc99 Member Posts: 15
    John your problem is the fuel filter element is being clogged. you are getting fuel
    but not enough of a flow rate to keep up with the pump to rail system.
    I bet your not getting any codes either right? sometimes the code I think was 097
    will show which indicates excessive fuel leak.
    I use 100 % bio fuel in mine 2005 and had this issue over a year ago. it drove me nutts for a week before i figured it out.
    you see the fuel system codes will cover and pick up temperature, and pressures
    but nothing will detect the flow rate.
    your fix will be to lower the viscosity of your fuel, like gasoline-kerosene-diesel.
    if you choose gas keep it around 12 or 13 to 1 ratio as too much gas can cause
    damage to motor. safest thing is kerosene diesel or biodiesel.
    hope this helps
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Fust....... the problem is that if the wiring of the plugs were install wrong then is going to be hard to determine which plug is the one that is bad.
    The best thing to do is to check the resistance value first before you pull it out.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    If you are still interested to use the SEGR I found the man that sells them. You can get in touch with him at the Jeepforum.com site and his name (blog name) LocoCRD. If you go in go to the second page and his in the middle of the page. PM him and he will tell you what to do. If he does not have any ask him for UFO address, I think that UFO have some already assemble.

    Good lock.........................

    Nescosmo.........................
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    Previous glow plug replacement by the dealer found the wiring was incorrect and they corrected the wiring .It ended up being plug # 3, I had to remove the intake pipe but what I found was a huge amount of carbon build-up in the intake pipe after the control valve and in the opening of the intake manifold, has any one else found the same issue and is there a way of preventing a large build-up of carbon,I assume it is because of the egr valve, any help appreciated.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi guys,
    It's my turn now :(
    80,000 miles is the end of the road for my alternator !
    The symptoms were:
    - no battery warning light during the first 5minutes after the engine is started
    - when the engine runs, the battery voltage gets reduced instead of being increased
    - when disconnected from the battery, the alternator goes to 24 Volts (field voltage is present)
    - there is a slight AC noise (probably one or more blown diodes)
    - when connected, the output voltage stays low (12 V instead of the 24 V when disconnected)

    I guess it's cheaper to buy a brand new one than to have Chrysler charge 1,800 USD to stick their nose under my hood :blush: According to a local post, this is what was charged to replace the alternator of a Grand Voyager 2.8L CRD.

    I had to chase two months to get hold of a set of BFG T/As. Apparently tires made in the US are hard to get :confuse:
  • nicku812nicku812 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 CRD and my daughter was driving it and it just killed in the street. I recently had it serviced. Oil change etc one week ago. It has 29,500 miles.

    Battery was recently replaced about 3 weeks ago. It has not given me any trouble until now.

    Its still under warrant and just wondering if anyone else had this happen and if so what could it be. Thanks...Nick
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I paid about $400 US for a new alternator from the dealer. :cry:
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    i live in chanute ks and have a 2005 with out that problem but my dealer has a buy back 2006 with your problem keep me in touch what they find i might buy this one cheep they are getting ready to go to auction with it
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I ordered one from the dealer at 730 USD, and I hope the freewheeling pulley will come with it. The original alternator is a "DENSO 578 AE".
    With such high prices people don't understand why sales are going down :sick:

    Over here it was considered a joke when people said the cost of fuel could reach 10 USD per gallon. It just made it's way there and now the game is over :cry:

    Good thing I kept my little Toyota, its always there when the Jeep can't move :shades:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The alternator I received is a brand new object, not a rebuild. It's exactly what was fitted on my truck and comes with the fancy pulley :blush:
    That's why it's so expensive.
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    Have a couple of problems:

    1). White smoke coming out of exhaust when first starts up and for a few miles -- quits once engine warms up.

    2). Check engine light is on. Jeep Mechanic (at another shop from where I do business) did a diagnostic and showed glow plug short ciscut

    Think the two items related?

    Joe
  • i_ami_am Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, nescosmo. I contact them on the jeepforum.com
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Problem #1 smells like a cracked head gasket. Have you checked the level of the antifreeze. Does the exhaust smoke smell sweet? Also, a bad glowplug in a cold engine could yield white smoke (unburned fuel). Does the engine start easily? Does the engine run smoothly in those first few miles?
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    The engine starts smoothly, maybe a little rough for 3 seconds or so.

    Engine runs smoothly start to finish
  • jek443jek443 Member Posts: 12
    Yes, it does have a sweet smell to it for the several minutees, afterwards, no smell.
  • biobobbiobob Member Posts: 11
    When I turn off the engine, what I think is a blower motor continues to run for about 20 seconds. It may be the Turbo. It even does it after an idle. It just started doing this two days ago. Any ideas?
  • shizzznitshizzznit Member Posts: 9
    It's the radiator fan :)
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