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Comments
This is a fuse which gets blown when the fuel system cannot build pressure. It is a direct result of your fuel filter being clogged. Change the filter and you would not blow more fuses.
Also while your are checking, check that the fuel heater has been upgraded. Fuel heater tend to break down in the early models and air can suck in there cause the automatic shutdown circuit to pop the fuze for low fuel pressure. The dealor should be able to check them with a visual inspection (wipe around where the two wires plug into fuel filter mount. with klenex tissue if fuel present then they are bad).
You may ask; why didn't the manual tell me about this? Cause they are mostly dumkoffs. .
Why isn't the starter firing if it's the gas fuse that needs replacing?
And if that was the problem, why does it start fine for the rest of the day, if the fuse is blown?
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. This has been incredibly frustrating.
The switch schematic shows 2 sets of contacts for run. One goes to the body control module-which is why the radio works. The other is the run-start contact.that feeds power to the computer,so if the computer is not working the starter will not work.
I would say that one is bad.
The ball joints and transmission recalls and the problem with the transmission leak down were taken care of properly, but they should never have occured with a new vehicle. Two EGR valves were next on the list, another thing that should not happen if chrysler tested everything. Then the buzzing of the EGR air flow control valve. Chrysler calls it that so they don't have to cover it under the warranty, everyone else calls it a throttle body. The boost pressure sensor started clogging up every 2000 miles and then every 1000 miles. then I was told that it needed to be replaced because they always go bad. The last straw is when I tried to replace the fuel filter and they said I had to buy a new mount and a new designed filter because the old ones would suck in air because of a bad design. Add all this to the service intervals, they expensive fluids required and the diesel fuel being more expensive, it was not worth having this vehicle. It cost more to run than a gas engine. I will no longer buy a Chrysler product, as they did not take responsibility for testing it before bringing it to the public and for not standing behind their product when they knew they created the problem,
I know a number of you love your CRD and while it ran good it was a nice machine. I wish you all the best of luck . "Farout" was right , we were guinea pigs.
I have a 2005 CRD which I purchased new and in spite of some of the issues I have had including two recalls, three torque converter replacements, two sets of hoses from the turbo to CAC and to the engine, two computer flashes I am still happy with it.
So diesel fuel costs a bit more and yet thirty+ MPG highway is not uncommon for me. I live in the metro DC area and out traffic is the second worst in the United States but yet I manage 23.8 MPG average on my commute.
Does it cost more to maintain? Yes a little but most if not all is offset by the time between maintenance.
Does Chrysler stand behind this vehicle? That depends on the dealer and as I see it, Chrysler does stand behind this vehicle.
You talk about testing or lack there of. Look at Ford. On their V-8 engines, they spit spark plugs and even if they are the original ones placed at the factory, Ford will not cover the repair and the owner generally needs to replace the head which is not cheap. Look at Ford Power Stroke diesel trucks. To do any significant work requires that the cab be removed. Those same engines blow head gaskets with grim regularity and Ford will fight the owner to pay for warranty repair.
Look at the Ford Fusion Hybrid. It uses the same drive system licensed from Toyota and it was recalled for bad gas pedals.
Even GM is no immune to engineering faux pas, neither is Honda, Nissan, Daimler or BMW. So stop your whining.
I just drove back from Portugal and compared my mileage with diesel fuels bought in 3 different countries. I found a 15% spread between them! This is one of the realities of this type of diesel engine (angular acceleration sensing) so it's difficult to give a "reference" value.
I have over 170,000KM now on my 7 year old CRD. It starts and runs like when it was new with it's original glow plugs; it simply refuses to age :mad:
Shocks are 'soft-ish' and rear brakes will be due before fall. Are you still happy with your Bilstein and Brembo parts? I haven't inspected the ball joints yet since they were changed 80,000KM ago.
I'm afraid of lifting the corner of the rug to discover the rest of the maintenance waiting for me under the cabin...
Thanks, Semper Fi
I am still puzzled by the ten MPG drop since you had the F37 recall. My mileage did not worsen at all.
My wife and I love our CRD and take it on long trips regularly. Thirty MPG is not uncommon when we drive this vehicle judiciously.
I still have the factory shocks on my CRD but I am going to change out the rear ones before this winter. The brakes I put on are not from Brembo, but the rotors and pads are high performance stuff. The rotors are made in Norway from a very high quality steel and the brake pads are from Hawk. The combination is delightful with significantly shorter stopping distances and a firmer feel to the brake pedal. I also flushed out the factory brake fluid and replaced it with DOT 4 Synthetic fluid which has a higher boiling point and is more resistant to moisture uptake.
I have had to replace one glow plug, #2 along with the battery. The Jeep starts beautifully and barely cranks. The ball joints are in good shape as I have them inspected every ten thousand miles or every other tire rotation. I have nearly 66K (105.6k kilometers) miles on my CRD.
In early July, my wife and I will be traveling to Florida for eleven days. I am happy to see the average price of diesel below $3.00/gallon.
I have a 05' Libby 2.8L as well , 110K miles on her. well maintained.
I had turbo lag and reduced power for 1.5 yrs , didn't think nothing of it .My mileage has always been good.but I am one of those guys that changes my oil at 4K miles or before a trip. Old oil will suck mileage .
I got a good mechanic .
It turns out the PCV valve was stuck open and was shooting oil from the engine onto the turbo .it was a nicely oiled bearing but what that did was slow the turbo down. I had that changed $52 ,
and the vacuum solenoid was changed as well $60 ,
I told him while your at it clean out the EGR and recycle tubing , blow it out with high pressure air.He said it was full of soot like a chimney and needed cleaning ..
With labour that came to $300 , and boy does go like lightning now ,lots of power .I also notice my mileage was a bit better as well, back up to 35 mpg on the hwy.I was running at 26 mpg for awhile.
Also about the mileage if your not in too much of a hurry .abd want to economize on fuel .
. try using the cruise control after you hit 70mph and 5th gear kicks in,
set the cruise then and decel down to 55-58 mph from there so the 5 th gear stays in ,then the engine revs down 1600 rpms on the highway . Driving this way using cruise will help your mileage.
If she vibrates a lot that's a sign to get the oil changed after 4K miles .you'll see your mileage jump up from there.She'll also run smoother.
Another trick I do is , pump my tires up to 38 psi if I am on a road trip to reduce rolling resistance. This should get you 2 mpg better at least.
That's how I got more out of her. Even after the F37 recall , I just slowed down the speed. "Use the cruise" It worked for me.
Good Luck
Lightnin
A lot of people don't understand what it is for .
It is basically to keep space between the cylinders from slapping the valves .
As the belt wears the intake/exhaust Valves get closer to the top of the piston at top dead center of the fly wheel and the valves are at full open position during operation .yes there is a chance of them hitting . you probably won't have any indication of if it is worn ,and I have never heard of anyone having a problem as of yet on this. Clackity clack noise comes to mind ..
Next year for me at 125K miles I 'll change mine.
And yes it can be expensive but it usually is a $1000-$1200 fix only because of the labour , and usually the water pump and seal are replaced at that time while it is apart.
Really outside of the $400 EGR valve if it needs changing
and /or recirculating tubing cleaning on the EGR ,the regular yearly cleaning ,which all diesels accumulate soot in the tubing and EGR and need cleaning regularly.it is inherent because of the dirty fuel we use.
Cleaning it, is like a tune up for diesels.
I think the real flaw in this engine is the timing belt.It should have been a timing chain instead, but I believe it was used to keep the noise down.
Well good luck
Lightnin3
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel w/ about 160,000 miles. In town, the mileage sucks -- I guess because of all of the hills and stop and go traffic. Highway mileage is about 26 mph @ 70mph w/ the cruise set. I hear of these folks getting 30 mpg. I am thankful for you sharing your tips w/ the group.
I have noticed w/ bio-diesel, the engine seems to run smoother and I get a bit better mileage.
jek443
Seems its something about locking the dual cams in place.
If I had been able to inspect the belt before removing it, I would have never replaced it even at 127,000 miles. It still hangs in my garage and looks brand new. I cost so much to replace, I have to pretend it's a work of art. I may even light it up at night.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
NOTE: Rotate the engine by the front crankshaft bolt until the line next to the bolt in the front crankshaft
hub reaches 12 oclock. Rotate the engine another 1/4 turn to the right, or the three oclock position. This will
assist approximating the location of 90 degrees ATDC.
2. Rotate engine by hand until special tool VM 1080 can be install through the engine access hole, locking the flex
plate and preventing crankshaft movement. This locks the engine at 90° after TDC.
3. Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
COVER - REMOVAL).
4. Remove EGR valve and EGR cooler to exhaust
manifold retaining nuts.
5. Reposition EGR valve assembly out of way.
6. Remove plug in cylinder head cover/intake
manifold.
Does your temp gauge come up to just below 1/2? Mine had a bad thermostat for the last few years, mileage is up 1-2 mpg.
Have you changed the fuel filter recently?
Have you cleaned the boost pressure/intake air temp sensor?
How is the power-can you lay rubber once the turbo winds up?
Have you run any injector cleaner through it?
You should get in the low to mid 20's unless you really rod it.
Your lucky to have bio diesel , It isn't here in Canada yet.
You'll find that the oil stays cleaner longer as well
If you have a summer set of low rolling resistance tires , using those over a set of mudders will help your mileage .mudders usually suck about 2 mpg . they are sticky , and have it's uses , but so is having a summer set of tires for just going to the store as well. but I would only use them for dry pavement .
Driving 70 mph you'll find you won't get better than 26 mpg . This is because of your RPM's are over 2000.and your winding up that turbo.drive 55mph and save 20%. and keep those RPMs down. the trick is to not be in a hurry .
Let the low end Rpms and torque from the engine do the work.
also if in a hilly region , your constantly using the fuel pedal to compensate. this will definitely hurt your over all mileage but it is still be better than a truck.
good luck.
Lightnin3
Valvoline recommends their SynPower 5W-40, part # 966. NAPA stores carry it. Shell, who owns Pennzoil and Quaker State has Pennzoil European Formula 5W-40 Synthetic and Quaker State 5W-40 synthetic that meet the spec.
Amsoil has one oil, their 5W-40 European Formula and RedLine 5W-40 also meets the MS-10725 spec.
If your CRD is under warranty, take this under consideration. If it is out of warranty, it would still behoove you to use the correct oil. If you have a failure and you have been using the correct oil, you might be able to get something off on the repair, even if it is out of warranty.
The automatic transmission does not engage immediately when I put it in gear. My auto mechanic said that there was a filter kit that was supposed to correct this problem so I had it installed. The problem has not gotten any better.
Now it does not want to shift into the higher gears. This all happened when the engine light came on last night as I started for home. I attempted to turn the OD off and on but no change in shifting. I am attempting to get into the dealer but they are booked up for a couple of days.
I am new to the forum and would appreciate any insight and advice.
Since I knew that Jeep was going to put a diesel in one of their vehicles I wanted one. Now that I have one I am learning that it will take some relearning compared to my gas Liberty.
Thanks!
Comments anyone?
I am at 181000 mi and it runs just fine.
I am not totally sure that every last spec requirement is that important.
Under warranty, I would agree as they can be very touchy.
I also have an '05 CRD that consistently rings up over 27 MPG highway and the speedo is dead on.
2crd
i think i've seen this come up before. i was just at the dealer and he says my drainpan threads are shot and that he needs a solution for removing and replacing the drainplug that will be secure. he mentioned oversize plugs. are they are viable solution to this problem? is that solution only a short term fix? has anyone had to replace the entire pan? any experience/advice relating to solving this problem would be much appreciated.
thanks,
gunnar2
The pan is soft aluminum and is easily ruined. My dealer messed mine up on the very first change and weaseled out of taking responsibility. The plug failed completely at 36,001 miles.
I had a Precision Tune near my house help me with this. They bore out the hole rethreaded it and installed an oversized plug that uses a regular wrench now for about $40. It has lasted five going on six oil changes and it seems fine. To reward them I have had them do all my oil changes going forward.
I've had to go back once or twice because everyone's afraid to over tighten it including me. They just crawl under and give it a tighten and we wipe it off. We're really careful with it.
The longer it holds the longer I'm saving $1000. If it gives out again, I may pop for it because I still love this CRD. Currently have a little over 70,000 miles.
I have a lifetime supply of new gaskets in a ziplock and I put a new one on with each change just to be safe.
As to the mileage, it sounds like you either have a leaky EGR or another intake issue.
How is the power compared to before?
You should check the turbo hoses, maybe one is loose or has a small hole.
You might also remove and clean the boost/IAT sensor, if you have a functional EGR it can get really garbaged up and this will affect the boost a lot.
I've owned my liberty for 2 years and put 50k on it without any problems. The only concern was the soot produced during sudden acceleration for the driver behind me.
The current problem started a few weeks ago. The day after a long drive (150miles or so) in the morning I realized the check engine light is on and the vehicle does not have power to go uphill or exceed 80 km/hr. (55 mile/hr). Being a sensor problem I disconnected the power (what I usually do with my gasoline car to get rid of electronic errors). The check engine light went off and the Jeep worked as good as before for a couple of hours before I turned the engine off, upon start the engine light came on again and the same story with power etc.
I took the vehicle to the Jeep dealership in town. They performed the test and came up with "Turbo / Supercharger Underboost" diagnosis. The dealer said that they have cleaned the boost pressure sensor. They reported excessive carbon build up under the boost-pressure sensor (and perhaps in the EGR) and asked me to come
back later for a major maintenance. I ended up going there a couple of times; but I think they do not have a diesel mechanic hence are afraid of touching it so they just waist my time and just are fooling around. My questions:
1: Does anybody know a knowledgeable diesel mechanic in Toronto ( Canada) area?
2: With the symptoms mentioned earlier (under boost, carbon built-up, probable sensor /EGR problem) has anybody have an idea about the ball park cost (min-max) to get things straightened again?
3: I love my Jeep and I am ready to invest and learn basics maintenance. Is anyone aware of relevant DVDs/booklets, maintenance manuals, etc. available ?
Many thanks in advance for your response. Please note, as I said earlier, I'm a just a student (but an interested student) in this.
Recently I have obtained a young Mechanic at a premium motors shop who is meticulous and is trained in diesels , who understands them thoroughly.
He is the type of person who is willing to do the dirty work .not just change parts but clean them .
For example When he found I was getting the engine light on it was a an EGR not responding and opening up fully to gain boost pressure..so he replaced it and also "cleaned out the burnt fuel "recirculating tubing " that feeds the EGR because it 's purpose is to recirculate the old exhaust fumes of unburnt fuel and recirculate this fuel back into the engine intake for more power. This tube was full of soot and reducing the flow to the engine ultimately giving the nefarious engine faults.
All of this went away after the tubing was blown out and EGR was replaced.
The service to disconnect the tubing and clean it out was $100 . and needs to be done once a year if you want peak performance. Kind of like a tune up for a diesel.This will extend the life of the EGR ..and increase performance .
Hopefully the use of Bio -Diesel will reduce the soot .
good luck
Lightnin