Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The maintenance required to keep your CRD running well is pretty simple. The boost sensor on top of and on the back of the intake manifold needs to be cleaned every 5000 to 7000 miles with some solvent and a soft toothbrush. The solvent Iike is Castle Solv (the spelling here is correct).
The other bit of maintenance is what Caribou1 calls "nose blowing". Even my diesel mechanic at the local dealer I use recommends it. Make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Push the button on the side of the gear selector to lock out overdrive. From a dead stop nail the accelerator and hold it to the floor until about 65 MPH. Repeat until no black clouds are emanating from the exhaust. Do this several times weekly afterward to keep the carbon build up in check. I have had the EGR valve replaced once at 14K miles. I am now at 70K miles and no problems since I have been "nose blowing".
Any ideas/suggestions welcome.
The very first turbo boost carries cold air, and the boost sensor has both temperature and pressure sensing :confuse:
The EGR may come into action too early as soon as the engine rpm is momentarily higher than idling speed. If I remember correctly the EGR operation is also temperature related; but to which sensor?
The 'smooth running condition' (discussed here a long time ago) tries to achieve even angular acceleration of the four cylinders. You could have one set of sticky piston rings...
Apart from fuel dripping between the engine and tranny after one tankful at a steady 75mph, I have nothing to complain about
The uneven idle that I described does not occur consistently every morning. I am wondering if the mass airflow sensor could be soiled? I do use a K&N air filter and before this problem started, I had just cleaned it and re-oiled it. I did not over oil the filter.
I also use a K&N air filter and I've never seen any difference with the original or with the Mann air filters. But I always found I could get better mileage with a slightly dirty filter. In all cases my waste-gate whistles loud and clear, so there is plenty of air going to the engine.
Your mass airflow sensor could be cleaned with a dish washing detergent, the same applies to our K&N air filter. You could try to disconnect the sensor and see if there is a change in the idling mode. I would avoid thinners and solvents and choose Isopropyl alcohol as a cleaning agent for all sensors because there is a lesser risk of damaging the polymer that provides the electrical integrity of these sensors.
The pressure release valve of the common rail as well as the fuel pressure sensor could show signs of weakness after a few years
When I changed over to a K&N filter, fuel economy improved as well as reduction in turbo lag. I have never found any oil film on the clean side of the filter.
As to the MAF, I am going to be pulling it and clean it with MAF cleaner to see if it helps.
The wife and I went to Florida earlier this month. Fuel economy was good considering that we used the A/C most of the trip and drove at 72 MPH. We averaged 27.1 MPG.
Once I get the MAF cleaned, I will let you know if there is any change.
Without any special care I was able to repeat 26.4 MPG at a steady 75 MPH while driving through Spain this summer. I kept the 4WD FULL TIME engaged as well as the A/C. Under these conditions neither the torque converter nor the extra HP you have play a role in the comparison
Commuting in heavy traffic takes up to 20% more fuel mainly because I can't accelerate as fast as you can and my T/C just keeps spinning.
I've had this truck for 7 years and will change whatever is needed to keep it as long as diesel fuel is available :shades:
:sick:
It sucks through the filter, so just unscrew it.
Make sure you get it fully primed when replaced.
The computers used in Europe are probably the same as we have here. It is the parameters of the software that are different because in Europe they go after different pollutants than they do here in the U.S.
What gives the Europeans better fuel economy, in my view, is that the fuel is better than here and the engines, at least for now, are less encumbered with pollution control devices. In the next few years, European pollution control specs will be as tight as what we have here.
However our 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD is the best vehicle we have ever owned! We got the Lifetime Powertrain Warrenty and bought the LifeTime Max Care extended Warranty so maybe this will be the last new vehicle we will have to buy. We have 76,000 miles on the PAC and it gets 24 mpg, so all in all it has been the best thing to happen to us.
I enjoy getting up dated on this forum, and was supprised to get your note. I hope the CRD works well for you, happy driving!
farout
You don't have too. To fix all of the problems with the engine's preformance and increase milage PLUS reduce EGR valve issues do what I have done! - GREEN DIESEL ENGINEERING and get their ECO TUNE. Their engineer wrote or co-wrote the ECM program for the CRD Liberty. This ECM program still limits the torque, but only when the torque converter is locked and in overdrive, GDE's ECM engine program makes around 280 ft-lbs when the TC is locked. The F37 program limits it to 260 ft-lbs, When unlocked you have 335 ft-lbs around 1800 RPM amd 188 HP near 4000RPM.
They also have a tune IF you have the Euro TC which does not limit torque in lock-up. D-C limited the torque as the Stock TC cannot handle all of the torque this motor can produce, hence the SHUTTER when loading the drive train. GDE's program has to do the same as the hardware can not take the loads, so to prevent damaging the TC the torque is limited. I have no affiliation with GDE, other that I have purchased their product. They are on the web.
I was responding to warren9 question on the ECM program, he wanted the European program. If someone he knew in Europe could upload their program, it then could be emailed to him; then he could download it into his ECM and then he would have the same program: assuming full interchangability. Both would need the correct hardware to do this transfer. Buying the local USA ECO tune would be cheaper.
I am asuming that both mirrors stop working.
In you case I would check the wiring in the power mirror circuit starting with the fuse, and look very closely to see if there is a relay in the circuit. The relay could have a broken winding that opens when heated dropping out the relay, or have burnt contacts. Use a volt-ohm meter to check each part of the circuit.
When working on the blower motor the dealer's tech could have pinched a wire, after you move the mirrors do you have to replace a fuse? This circuit could also have a circuit breaker or thermo overload device to protect the mirror motors, these would also need to be checked.
CEL came on early last week and I had the dealer interogate the PCM. Number four glowplug is the culprit and I am going to try to replace it myself. Do I need any special tools? I know I will need to move the fuel filter assembly.
Thanks in advance.
Deep socket wrenches are used for glow plugs. The only worry is that you need to vacuum clean around the plugs prior to removing them. Any accumulation of dirt between the plug and engine will fall into the cylinder. You can take this opportunity to rinse your engine with low pressure water; most of the gunk is easily removed and the engine compartment will look new
When one plug fails we usually change the four...
I drove with the cleaned MAF and performance was a bit perkier, the turbo whistled more freely, idle was smoother and shutdown was also also smoother. Took more cranking to get it started. I am wondering if #4 glowplug failed and took all of the glowplugs or if is the result of the MAF cleaning. I will let you know tomorrow.
I should add I clean the EGR and MAF sensor ( I think it is the MAF on top the engine near the back) every oil change.
Concerning the side view mirrors that stop working for an unknown reason, I'm in the same situation. I guess it's a cheap 3 cables construction and they got corroded over the years :confuse:
Mine are 16 or 17 mm deep socket, yours may be different. There is no need to over tighten these plugs and I would recommend to put a drop of gun grease or 'Molykote grease' on the thread. Don't forget to disconnect the battery and look for weak (soft) spots on the leads connecting the plugs.
I am going to use some anti-seize compound on the threads so they do not bind in the heads if I ever have to replace them.
I find the placement of the glow plugs amazingly bizzare, under the intake manifold. I guess they had no room on top of the head.
As to the MAF, I drove the Jeep on the highway to work this morning. Had noticeably more power and the sag at 68 MPH is now gone. Also, less smoke too considering that I have almost none. I wonder how often I should clean the MAF, maybe yearly or every six months?
F-102(PF-3/8) Fumoto Oil Drain Valve - Ships Free!
Change Oil Quick & Clean. Good-bye to Oil Drain Plug.
They have them on EBAY for $27 with free delivery.
bob
The Di-electric grease helps maintain a good solid connection, which will increase the life of any motor. A bad connection = low voltage, which will cause premature failure.
Bob
I would appriciate any comments on both Tune Companies.
Thanks: Bob
I am quite happy with it. My mileage is up about 15%.
The only issue with the Trans Tune is that in the hills it can upshift a bit early.
Have you installed the stronger torque converter?
I see many are putting in Transgo shift kits, which all are happy with. They are either $59 or $95 depending on the kit. Seems like a good first step.
Thanks: Bob
I have a newer TC but not the Euro. It seems to be working OK
The big difference is fuel milage, ECO tune will be about 4-6 MPG better. My first tank I got 4 MPG improvement at 70MPH and a heavy foot because the extra power was fun.
Now if you have a replacement TC like Suncoast or the Jeep's EURO TC (from the Diesel Wrangler) then they have a FULL TORQUE ECO Tune with does not limit the engine's torque to 280 ft-lbs when in overdrive and TC is locked, you get 335 ft-lbs (1800 RPM). They also have a HOT tune with 200 HP and if I remember, 365 ft-lbs torque. GDE has a new turbo kit for even more....
I also looked at the InMotion program as it was $100 cheaper but GDE's also improved milage which my research on the web didn't support a milage increase of the InMotion program. I drove up to GDE to have the program installed.
Now I just have to save-up to have the TC replaced so I can have the FULL TORQUE upgrade.
Since the reprogram I have noticed:
NO BLACK SMOKE at all
Quicker acceration (they claim 1.5 seconds 0-60 MPH)
Increased milage (fill to fill as I have a sport model)
Better trailer towing (18' hardside camper near 4400# loaded)
Can squeal tires on pavement (locking axle and Firestone A/T 235R-17)
Improved drive-a-bility in daily driving.
It does sound a little more like a diesel than it use to....
Oh the gas gauge is more linear and the temperature gauge is more accurate. I did notice the speedometer is now reading 1 mph less then my GPS says which wasn't the case before....
The Transgo shift kit, I have also read lots of positive reviews on. They have 2 versions one $55 and the other $95, have yet to call them to find out the difference.
between them, I will probably do this while my computer is sent to GD.
It also supposedly increased MPG a bit.
I have not been able to find a Cold air intake system for the Liberty CRD so far. I may end up building my own as I had to do for my 92 Dodge cummins. It gave the Dodge 3 more MPG and a little more power.
Bob
You mean like a Safari SS1135HF snorkel is tough and stylish and has been designed to deliver a huge volume of the coolest and cleanest air possible into the stock air cleaner assembly of the powerful KJ Jeep Cherokee CRD.
http://www.safarisnorkel.com/snorkel/ss1135hf/ss1135hf.htm
Many CRD owners change -out to the V6's air intake for increased air flow.
I actually built something similiar for my 40' diesel pucher motorhome, it now has Ram Air thru the roof. It's interesting how much it effected the shifting patterns and I would bet I gained 50hp with it. Does this snorkel hook into the stock air box?
Thansk: Bob
The $20.00 Chiltons and Haynes service manuals (I have many) are good for basic information, but what you really need is the Factory Service Manual created by the manufacturer.
I have had great luck finding Factory Service Manuals on E-Bay. I have purchased several full sets in great condition for as low as $45.00 for my daughter's 2004 Dodge Stratus. I have the CD/DVD Factory Service Manuals for my Jeep. It is nice to have the paper books, but with the searchable electronic version finding what you need is faster. Then you can print only the secitions or pages you need for each repair job. All of my paper manuals eventually got dirty & stained because I almost always need to refer to it while doing the work.
Good luck with all those CRDs.
With 4 jeeps, I would go for the $179 set If I had 4 of them. I am most likely going for the CD for now but I will eventuallly break down and spent the big bucks.
I jsut bought my CRD.
Take some time and read the positings here, there are several little upgrades that increase power, MPG and extend service times.
Best of luck: Bob
Here is the link for the 2006 service manual:
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf
There most everything you will need in there.......
Be patient it takes awhile for it to load..... 140M....
Have a hunt around their site you may find more....
I played with it for about an hour, While I still prefer the hard copy, for the $200 price difference, I will ry really hard learn to use this one.
I fly back to pick up my 2006 crd next Thursday. It's in O'Dessa, Tx. which is 1500 miles from me. I have never driven a CRD before, so we will get aquainted very fast!
Thanks again: Bob
Just something to try
I have a 2005 Liberty CRD with 120k miles. Last evening, while at a stoplight the oil light came on. When the engine rpm was increased to about 1200 the light went off. When I got home I changed the oil even though it only had 3700 miles. It was 100 degrees here in Houston, don’t know if that has anything to do with it.
Any thoughts?
If so, I would check the sending unit for connection and cleanliness. and possibly replace it. Thr hotter it gets the thicker the oil gets. But 100 in Houston is not unusual.
Is the temp reading in the normal range when this happens?
Bob
The tech suggested that the CCV had some deposits in it and that this was causing the problem. Instead of replacing it, I learned that the CCV can be cleaned with a mild solvent like Castle Solv or brake cleaner. I did the cleaning on Sunday and there was some sludge or goo inside that the solvent removed. Once I reassembled everything I used a little Indian Head Shellac (gasket cement) on the hose that comes off the CCV to make sure there is no leakage.
I have driven the CRD since then and I have noticed a couple of things. First the up and down idle in the morning is now gone and idle is actually smoother all around. Second, the turbo spools up faster and with more punch even under light acceleration and with the windows down you hear the turbo happily whistling away when you demand any kind of boost/power.
When you pull the CCV, do it on a cold engine. You will need an 8mm socket and a flexible joint or a short extension to remove the rear bolt. There are three bolts that hold the CCV in place. When you remove the CCV, pull it out gently and be sure you retain the two O-ring gaskets. Clean the O-rings gently (no solvent), coat them with a high temperature grease and put them aside for now. Spray solvent into all of the openings of the CCV and swish it around to get rid of whatever sludge or goo you have in the CCV. Repeat until the solvent comes out clean. Put the CCV aside and let it dry. Do not try to open it or disassemble it ( the tech warned me about this). Once dry, put some of the same grease on the tubes that plug into the valve cover. On the valve cover, clean the two openings with a bit of solvent on a rag to clean the seats where the O-rings sit. Put some of the same grease in the grooves where the O-rings reside and then put the O-rings in making sure they are firmly seated in the grooves. Gently place the CCV on the openings and push firmly to seat it. Secure it with the three bolts and reattach the hose. Took me all of twenty minutes to do.
I am using an oil from Europe called Lubro Moly. It is a full synthetic 5W-40 CF rated oil.