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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    I installed a voyager electric trailer brake controller in my '05 CRD which I got new with the factory tow package. Jeep included a package that had a 7 - 4 pole plug adapter and a pigtail w/plug for easy installation of a brake controller. I looked all over for the harness recieptical in vain. Looked on this site for information and found that others had the same experience. The supplied pigtail only works with Dodge pickups with the tow package, the CRDs never wired for it. I bought an electronic wire tracer that injects a signal into wire that is traced then with a reciever probe. I needed to find where the blue wire from the 7 pole female plug in back went to in the front. It was a, surprise, red wire under the driver side carpet. The other 3 wires were easy. The brake signal was either a white or light gray on the brake pedal switch.
  • nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    Yesterday my 05 Liberty (85K miles) began engine surging and abnormal smoking at low speeds (20-30mph). I also noticed I was burning through fuel at a much higher rate. There was no "check engine" light at the time. It was barely driveable. When I got home I did some research on-line and, as was suggested,I disconnected the MAF sensor on the air cleaner. I drove it and it ran fine. I disassembled and removed the MAP sensor. It was filled with shoot and I cleaned it, re-installed it, and hooked the MAF sensor back up. Upon test driving it the engine again surged and the smoke reappeared. Of course after disconnecting the MAF sensor my check engine light is on.
    I'd like to proceed and get it running properly without the engine light on and without the constant hesitation and smoke.
    I live in upstate NY and my dealership are generally clueless about the CRD because there are so few of them here.
    Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
  • gymb2gymb2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info on the trailer brakes. I appreciate all the leg work that is done by so many on this forum. Have a great Day!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Have hou blown its nose lately? Something they recommend you do every couple of weeks. get on an on-ramp, from a stop, turn the OD off and floor it to 65 or so, until it stops smoking. Repeat until the Smoke goes away.
    To get around the MAF sensor engine light thing. Remove your computer and send it to Green Diesel for the GRD Eco tune ($450). this will also increase your power and MPG, Controls the sensor without having the engine light on.
    To keep all the oil Gunk from stopping up your engine, buy and install a Provent 200. It will collect all that gunk instead of allowing it to settle in your hoses and EGR valve.
    I bought my 2006 in August and did alot of reading on the different Forums. I got mine at a great price so, It did not bother me to spend the cash immediately to make it last longer and get the Best MPG I could.
    A Transgo shift kit for the transmission is another highly recommended addition, as is a fuel lift pump.
    You can google the Jeep manufacturer, give them your VID # and ask if it is current on all the Recall's.
    Have Fun! Bob
  • lippslipps Member Posts: 10
    Try using MAF cleaner. A spray can costs about 7.00. You may need a new unit, (bring your wallet!)
    If you havent installed a Provent now is the time. I get about an ounce of oil per 1000 miles out of it. Most of that will end up in the EGR valve and intercooler without the Provent.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    edited October 2010
    Something is going on here and i'll have to take it in but would be nice if I had some idea of the problems beforehand. Would appreciate any advice anyone has to offer.

    2005/85K CRD. Glow plug light does not come on or only gives you a 1/10 second blink.
    The engine also occasionally stops shortly after start up but restarts when fuel is hand pumped to a point where the fuel bubles? from one of the electrical sensors at the top of the pump. The engine also will occasionally start normally and then loose power until it is shut off and restarted (loss of turbo corrected by computer reset?). The crank time before cold start has increased significantly in recent months. The check engine light does not stay on and no codes come up.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    If you pump the fuel filter and you have fuel leaking from a sensor port, you will need to replace the holder for the fuel filter canister. It appears as if air is being sucked into the fuel injection system from that sensor and the injection system is becoming air bound. Air in the injection system will contribute to longer cranking times and many of the symptoms you have described. You definitely need to get that repaired.

    As to the glow plug situation, glow plug duration is pretty much or mostly dependent on the temperature of the engine. If the engine has been sitting overnight, and ambient temperature is fairly warm then the glow plug light will only come on for a split second. If the temperature is really cold, then the light will stay on for up to two to four seconds.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I forgot to mention one other item in my response to you. The fuel line from the fuel tank and the return to the fuel tank. I have heard from time to time that these hoses can rot and start leaking where they connect to the fuel filter assembly. Also check the hose clamps of these lines to be sure they are snug.
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    Hello;

    I would replace the fuel filter mounting/manual pumping assy. There have been recalls on them because of air leaks cracks etc. I believe this would take care of the need to pump up the fuel system.

    The glow plug system generally only blinks on in moderate temperatures. My 2005 little gold coil indicator lamp only stays on for three seconds when it is Zero degrees. However, if you just want too replace the glow plug module, it is a pricey plugin. No labor for someone who has the complete compliment of thumbs.

    Cheers!
  • CRD_BullydogCRD_Bullydog Member Posts: 19
    I have just about decided to park my Jeep Liberty back in the show room using the "Pet Door" after all the trouble I have had with the emergency break shoes/springs/drum/links on the rear axle. What a fricking tinker toy scheme for a parking break.

    Has anyone found a method to keep the springs and links from rusting away? Has someone come up with an after market replacement. "Ya know, sometimes ya just can't fix Stupid" and maybe the answer is to remove stupid from the rear brakes completely.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    You might be able to tighten the fuel electrcal sensor or replace the "O" ring.
    If not the up-grade replacement for the complete asembly is the Racor 245R.
    AIr leaks into the fuel system (unfortunately) are fairly common. The "banjo" connections back by the fuel tank often will allow air to be sucked in as well.
    Many have replaced the In tank float assembly with one that has a fuel pump in it out of a 2002-2007 Dodge Diesel truck (I did). this pressurizes the fuel system so no air can be sucked into it.
    The CRD is a really neat little vehicle, but Jeep did some cost cutting and added Smog crap that it was not designed to have. If you read the forums there are several very progressive back yard mechanics that have brought these Liberty's up to their true potential. I followed their advise and made most of their recommended aditionas and subtractions right after I bought my 2006 last August.
    Don't give up on it, just jump through the hoops ASAP and then enjoy it for years.
  • whitiefordwhitieford Member Posts: 8
    You didn't mention or forgot to, when you clean the MAP Boost Sensor, you need to unplug the Negative Battery lead. What this does when you've completed the cleaning and remounting is at the time of reconnection, reset the manifold pressure. When the MAP get plugged up it in turn miss reads the pressure, and the computer holds that reading unless the battery is disconnected. My guess is why you are getting the code of over pressure. I clean mine every other oil change, I also have a Provent CCV filter system that has really made a difference. Every 20,000 miles change your boost solenoid filter - right side looks like a small fuel filter. I had to replace one EGR and with the Provent filter and regularly cleaning the MAP sensor have driven 125,000 miles and no problem. Good luck
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I generally do not disconnect the negative battery cable when I clean the MAP Boost sensor. I clean the sensor with every oil change or about every 5000 miles. The boost solenoid filter gets changed every May or about every 15,000 miles.

    Never had an over pressure code and do not have a Provent. I have very little dirt/oil in the hoses to and from the CAC and I have cleaned the CCV at least once with some solvent. It had very little residue in it. Have 75.5K on the CRD and it runs fine. Need to change the serpentine belt though as it it is slipping a bit.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    You may be due for an alternator change if you hear the serpentine belt :(
    Observe the front of the free spinning pulley of the alternator: if it collected dust or brownish powder/residue this is a $500 warning. I also suspect the bad rectifier of my alternator shortened the life of my battery...
    Since I replaced my alternator (more than a year ago) the pulley remains clean. You can disconnect the 'Field' of the alternator to compare the sound produced by the serpentine belt. When we had Vee belts we could not do this so accurately.

    I bought a Provent and never installed it; I also think that a better quality synthetic oil such as a 5W40 keeps the engine clean during 15,000 miles intervals (in my case).
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    Always check the clutch pulley before replacing the alternator, as they fail fairly often. Denso alternators fail not so often. I am on my second clutch pulley on my 2006 crd with 110k miles. Once tried a solid pulley and my belt got so noisy over the next several months it sounded as though parts would start falling off any minute. It quieted right down with a new clutch pulley.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou1,

    There is no residue or dust anywhere near or on the alternator or it's pulley. The squeal comes when I have run the Jeep for a while and I goose the gas for a bit of power. The sound is not always present.

    The belt has over 40K miles on it and there is some glazing on the smooth side of the belt and a few small cracks on the grooved side of the belt so it is time for it to go. I am going to change the belt this weekend as I have a long trip coming up in a couple of weeks. I will probably get the belt at NAPA. I have had good luck with their belts.

    Just need some pictorial instruction on how to remove the upper fan shroud.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited November 2010
    Winter2,
    I don't need to remove the fan shroud to replace my serpentine belt; is your different?
    My shroud was removed for the timing belt change and the air conditioning pipes were severely 'tortured' to save a few minutes of work :sick:
    Is the glazing continuous along your belt? If so, one of the pulleys could be out of alignment.
    Your alternator voltage should be 14.3 volts before you hit the road :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The shroud is rather obtrusive and I do not have a 15mm wrench long enough to apply sufficient torque to move the tensioner. I do have a metric socket set, but getting it in there is a bear.

    The smooth side of the belt has a shiny look to it but the side with the grooves has numerous cracks and looks rather dry.

    Voltage on my alternator is 14.4 volts.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    A disposable overall is convenient for this job because you need to reach the crankshaft pulley to center the belt before applying tension. Don't forget to bring additional light because it gets quite dark down there...
    If you have a 12" handle on your ratchet this would give you sufficient leverage. To clear your hands from the pulleys use either a deep socket on a standard ratchet or a swivel head ratchet with a shallow socket to avoid ripping off the tensionner.
    Once belt tension is released (while you apply force with one hand on your ratchet) pass the belt over to the other/outer side of the pulley below the alternator and release the tensionner. Repeat the previous step after repositioning the angle of the ratchet; this will reduce the amplitude of the swing you need to compensate.
    You will get dirty for sure, but this is a safe way of doing it.
    I learned this procedure because the Jeep dealer had not repositioned my belt correctly after the timing belt change. They had left the belt running on the outer side of the pulley below the alternator and this made it squeak as you described the symptom. Good luck :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Thanks for the information. Will a standard depth socket work on a regular ratchet? Maybe I will purchase a 3/8 inch swivel head ratchet as it is tight in there. I have a piece of pipe that I used on a previous vehicle to improve leverage when I changed the belt on it.

    Two days ago I had the transmission serviced, both filters and replace four quarts of fluid. I had gone 5000 miles over the recommended interval. The fluid was a little dark but there was no sludge or residue in the pan. The magnet in the pan had only a very few particles clinging to it. Cost about $100 for this, including parts which I purchased.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    If you purchase a swivel head ratchet, get one with a long handle. You need stability when you hold the tensionner with only one hand; in this case the short socket is preferable to the deep one.
    When you combine narrow access along the fan, a long socket plus a swivel head there is an angle at which the tool becomes unstable and folds.

    My manual says the synthetic transmission oil is kept for the life of the truck. It was chosen for not retaining moisture nor allowing sludge formation due to it is hydrophobicity :confuse:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I will purchase the swivel head ratchet to use with the short socket that I already have. I will use the piece of pipe I have that fits over the handle for extra leverage.

    As to the transmission fluid, a synthetic is required namely ATF+4 or equivalent. Chrysler still requires that it be changed at 30,000 mile intervals over on this side of the pond. Some companies like Amsoil, make a universal fluid that that works in some Fords, GM and others beside Chrysler. I used this fluid in my 1993 Dodge truck with good results but that transmission could also use Dexron fluids too so it did not matter that much.

    As to the differential fluids, Amsoil says their Severe Gear fluid is good for 100,000 miles and the tech at the dealer I use says that under certain conditions that would be so. The tech suggested 50,000 miles and no more than that.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Yesterday I changed the serpentine belt on my CRD. Took about 90 minutes and I now understand why the dealer charges so much to work on these engines.

    I cut away a portion of the upper fan shroud so I could access everything. The belt takes a really circuitous route around the pulleys. The old belt had 40,000 miles on it. The smooth surface was shiny but not glazed. The grooved surface had multiple cracks in it some going to the fabric belts. Good thing I got rid of it.

    I will reattach the removed portion of the shroud with some pieces of aluminum and four screws and bolts.
  • joshbrown7joshbrown7 Member Posts: 4
    3 days ago, my ABS warning light and brake warning light came on. Brakes still worked, ABS didn't. About 15 minutes later, everything returned to normal.

    Tonight, both lights came back on and the CRD wouldn't drive. It would shift to drive, but the engine would just rev.

    Is there a safety net on the Liberty that prevents it from driving if there is a brake warning?
  • haroldb2haroldb2 Member Posts: 7
    Our 2006 CRD is at the dealers now with 50,000 miles. Oil started dripping from the engine 12-15 months ago and over last few months got worse. Checked oil drain plug but found oil up on side of engine. Dealer pulled covers, filters, hoses, etc then diagnosed a failing turbo on pass side AND leaking oil pan on D/S. I have GEICO INS mechanical breakdown Ins so they had to verify problems.

    Dealer fixed those THEN called saying they STILL have a leak and suspect the engine rear main seal (which I had asked them about when I took it in). I am in Cal-e-fornia and since the CRD was never sold here I always get "we have never seen this before" story. Our's is the ONLY CRD this dealer has ever seen!

    They are suppose to have the vehicle back together this week. They can't tell me if this is a problem we can expect to see again since "they have never seen the CRD before".

    Had the fuel filter assembly replaced last year after OBD kept reporting related failure codes. The new filter fixed the problems.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Possibly at the EGR valve. Common problem, a provent system can avoid this in the future.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The wife and I took the CRD to Florida. Had pretty good fuel economy. At speeds of 100 kph (62 mph) I got about 31 mpg (calculated). At cruising speeds of 72 mph got about 26.7 mpg (calculated).

    Price of diesel is now greater than $3.00/gallon everywhere south of Virginia. Regular gas is about $0.20 (average) less per gallon. As I see it, diesel fuel is still a good bargain.

    In Monday's USA Today (11/22/2010) there was a small article in the business section that might be pointing to higher diesel fuel prices. The mainland Chinese intend to import more diesel fuel as their refinery capacity cannot keep up with demand.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The "Winter2" screen name is now defunct. I have a new ISP and I have had to change my screen name. The new name is "Winter51".

    Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Your ISP should have nothing to do with the net sites you visit and belong to.
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    Need Help? I am ready to replace my timing belt and in the service manual you need to set the timing at 90 degrees after top dead centre. To verify this there is an access hole for which you can insert tool # vm 1089 or an allen key as well as the timing mark on the crank shaft. My problem is locating this access hole can't find it. Does any one who may have replaced their timing belt know the exact location or possible any pictures of it. Thanks in advance.
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    This is what I found in my service manual:
    Also a note not to rotate the crank counter clockwise.

    NOTE: Rotate the engine by the front crankshaft
    bolt until the witness mark next to the bolt in the
    front crankshaft hub reaches the 12 o’clock position,
    or TDC. Rotate the engine another 1/4 turn to
    the right, rotating the witness mark to the three
    o’clock position, or 90 degrees ATDC.
    (3) Rotate engine by hand until the witness mark
    in the front crankshaft hub reaches the 3 O’clock
    position (Fig. 145).
    (4) Raise and support the vehicle.
    (5) Remove the splash shield.
    CAUTION: The engine block, flywheel, and/or flex
    plate, has an alignment hole to assist in properly
    aligning the crankshaft before service. Failure to
    properly align the crankshaft may result in improper
    valve timing and engine damage.
    (6) Insert the long end of a 6mm Allen wrench into
    the 90 degree ATDC access hole on the right lower
    side of the engine block. The engine is aligned properly
    when the short end of the Allen wrench is parallel
    to the rear of the engine block. (Fig. 146) .
    (7) If the small end of the Allen wrench protrudes
    away from the engine block (alignment hole in the
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Before you remove the timing belt release compression pressure and make your own marks along the belt, pulleys and engine block. It's very easy to work on a bench but gets painful after a while when you reach into the engine compartment :(
    Don't panic if one of the driven pulleys spins free when after the belt is removed; the timing is related to the diameter of each pulley and number of teeth (distance) between timing marks. Good luck.
  • nylibnylib Member Posts: 9
    I empathize with the lack of Chrysler/Jeep dealers and techs who no virtually nothing about the CRD. I live in NY where my local Jeep dealer is clueless. I felt I was paying for their mechanic to "learn on the job" to the tune of $88+ per hour every time I brought in to them. Most of the time they misdiagnosed the problem(s) and took days to eventually get to the bottom of what was wrong. Actually I found more factual advise on this site than at my dealer.
    After owning my 05 Liberty for 5 years, I traded it in this weekend for a Ford F150.
    I loved my CRD but felt it had become a pink elephant with little or no support from Jeep.
    Good luck and thanks to all who support this forum.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    Does anyone know how to check the belt without taking things apart?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    You may need an endoscope and a lot of patience if you slightly open the protective cover :)
  • lippslipps Member Posts: 10
    I normally do all my own maintenance on the CRD. However after reviewing the service manual for replacing the timing belt, and taking note of the special tools required I elected to have the dealer do it. I had them return the old parts. After looking at the parts, I cant say that this engine would not have gone another 20-30,000 miles. However a failure would have been much more expensive. Living in Houston I am fortunate enough to have a “trained” jeep mechanic close by.
    They recommended that the water pump be replaced at the same time, as it is mostly the same procedure. My own forensic study of the pump indicated that may have not been needed. The pump is very well manufactured.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    Jeep Liberty CRD Timing Belt Replacement
    Procedure (2.8l diesel)

    1. Remove cooling fan and shroud. The fan assembly is best
    removed with a very large crescent wrench on the nut just behind
    the fan viscous coupling. Then hit the wrench in a counter
    clockwise direction with a small sledgehammer. It may help to
    spray with penetrating oil. Worst case, wedge something behind
    the fan drive pulley to keep it from rotating and then use the
    sledge method.

    2. Remove accessory drive belt.

    3. Remove both idler pulley (right hand thread, 16 mm) (a), power
    steering pump (3 bolts that you get to by rotating the pulley, 10
    mm) (b), accessory belt tensioner (c), cooling fan pulley and
    bracket( 4-13 mm bolts) (d), crankshaft pulley/damper (4-10mm
    bolts, you may need to hold the pulley by the 21 mm center bolt)
    (e), and alternator (2-13 mm bolts on the front and 1-15 mm on
    the back side-note you will have to loosen the 2-13 mm bolts for
    the bracket that holds the alternator to the cylinder head) (f) .

    4. Remove the front timing cover (7mm bolt x 17)

    5. Remove both plugs in the camshaft cover (one on intake side
    behind alternator placement, one on exhaust side behind
    thermostat area). Remove the plugs with a 5mm hex.

    6. Rotate the engine clockwise only with a 21mm socket on the
    front of the crankshaft until a 6mm hex key engages the hole in
    the flexplate/flywheel.

    7. Inspect the two openings in the camshaft cover to see if the holes
    in the camshafts align. If so, install the two pins into the
    respective camshaft. If not, rotate the engine 360 degrees at the
    crankshaft and re-inspect.
    

    8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and rotate counterclockwise by
    hand until slack is sufficient to remove the belt from the pulley.
    Remove the old timing belt; discard when the refitting operating
    is completed successfully.

    9. Loosen both camshaft pulleys by rotating the bolt (17mm)
    counterclockwise. It is sufficient to have them loose; they do not
    need to be removed.

    10. Ensure that the high-pressure fuel pump pulley is oriented
    properly (see picture) and fit the new belt to the engine. Starting
    from the crankshaft pulley, remove the slack out of the belt by
    using the camshaft gear locking tool to pull the tension across the
    pulleys. Then torque the two camshaft pulley bolts to the
    specified torque in service manual.

    11. With the belt properly installed around the pulleys, tension the
    timing belt with the pulley as shown in the picture. If the proper
    handle isn’t available, the pulley can be moved with two 3mm hex
    keys. Rotate the tensioner until the proper gap on the pulley is
    achieved. Tighten the center fixing bolt to 30N-m.

    12. Remove the two camshaft pins and crankshaft pins and rotate the
    engine 720 degrees and verify that the timing belt tensioner is
    still in the proper orientation.

    13. Reinstall the timing belt cover and all ancillary components.

    I have a set of pictures in a PDF file with these instructions. The picutres are labed.

    If someone know how I can attach the pdf file let me know and I will.

    Also, Green Diesel Engineering rents the tools to change the belt I think, they charge $20 plus a deposit. Haven't done mine yet

    My 2 cents
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Member Posts: 50
    Fuel Milage Update:
    Gas Mileage PRE F37

    Jeep Only; Mostly all highway miles (95%+) (30 mile each way to work)
    Total miles 27,421.6 Fuel used 1117.2 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 28.23 Lowest: 21.21 Average: 24.54

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles
    Total miles 2551.7 Fuel used: 153.3 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 20.55 Lowest: 13.6 Average: 16.6
    Gas Mileage with F37,

    Jeep Only; Mostly all highway miles (95%+) (30 miles each way to work)
    Total Miles: 25,480.5 Fuel used: 1089.7 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 28.93
    Lowest: 19.97 (Citco fuel, I marked it down in the mileage log book)
    Average: 23.38

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles:
    Total miles 2905.2 Fuel used: 156.1 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 19.66 Lowest: 15.35 Average: 18.61

    Gas Mileage F37 and New Tires Firestone A/T P235R 16.
    Jeep Only; This is 94% city driving with a 2 miles each way to work
    Total Miles: 12,843.6 Fuel used: 614.8 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 27.19 Lowest: 16.24 Average: 20.89

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles
    Total miles: 1119.1 Fuel used: 71.4 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 17.67 Lowest: 14.55 Average: 15.67

    Green Diesel Engineering Eco Tune Modification (Low data samples)
    Jeep Only
    Total Miles: 711.1 Fuel Used: 28.2 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 31.3 Lowest: 19.2 Average: 25.2

    Driving highway for roughly 500 miles topping off twice just to check after the ECO tune installation, the CRD got 31.3 and 30.6 MPG

    Other mileage is around town getting 19.2 with a short drive to work of 2 miles.

    Green Diesel Engineering ECO Tune Modification pulling camper. This was heavy load trip with the trailer weight in at 4400# driving 62 to 65 MPH in the hills of Southern Ohio
    Total Miles: 539.8 Fuel Used: 35.1 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 15.9 Lowest: 14.7 Average: 15.4

    Combination Mileage: 120 Highways miles, 30 miles with camper (extra light load), remaining are miles are around town.
    Total Miles: 331 Fuel Used: 16.2
    Mileage: 20.4 MPG

    Summary:
    Around town no change compared to section #3.
    The A/T tires cost less than 2 MPG on the highway, which is a lot, but is cheap for the safer tire.

    F37 recall effected the average mileage by 1.16 MPG, keep in mind my transmission did not get reprogrammed.
    Best comparison is Improvement is close 2 MPG on an average.

    This is a Fill and Refill method
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    Thanks for the reply with all that great info, point #6 indicates to install the hex key into the access hole , can"t find it would love to see some pictures or a detailed description of were it is, Thanks again.
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    My 2006 Liberty CRD has 110k miles on it. I'm thinking that I need to change the timing belt this spring / summer. I would like to hear from other CRD owners about when they changed their timing belts and what condition they were in.
  • winter51winter51 Member Posts: 5
    edited December 2010
    Good Morning,

    Just want to write a brief note. While returning home from our vacation, the engine on my CRD simply imploded at 75 mph. Initially there was a bang then a washboard vibration throughout the car, loss of power steering with the Jeep pulling hard to the left. I managed to get the Jeep off of the road and limp it into a Florida rest stop. When I got under the hood, the coolant tank was empty, no oil in the oil pan and the serpentine belt tensioner had been ripped off the front of the engine. Motor oil was dripping all over the ground and the whole underside of the Jeep was covered with oil.

    Had the CRD towed to the nearest dealer in Melbourne FL. There diesel tech pulled the skid plate and it was covered with pieces of metal. The front half of the oil pan looked like a sieve. There were multiple holes in the iron block on both sides and number one piston and connecting rod were gone (per the tech). The tech called Chrysler and neither he nor the Chrysler engineer had ever heard of this engine imploding like this one did.

    I have 77594 miles on the car and have a claim in with Chrysler to make this right.

    Thanks (formerly Winter2)
  • crash227crash227 Member Posts: 46
    I had a blown engine somewhat like yours at about 40k miles on my 2006 CRD a few years ago. My failure was not as catastrophic as yours but the engine and turbocharger were shot just the same. In my case it was at night, near zero temp, and the "low coolant light came on". I tried to get to at least get a few miles to a gas station but did not make it. Something screwy with the sensor placements on this engine. The temp gauge never showed high coolant temp, and all the coolant leaked out. I realized I was screwed when the heater started blowing very cold air and started to pull over on the side of the expressway. Too late, the engine was toast. Turns out the water pump sprung a leak and all the coolant escaped there. Lucky for me Chrysler / Jeep stepped up and replaced the water pump, cylinder head, engine & turbocharger free of charge. For 2006 models the warranty was at 36k miles. I wish you luck, but at 77k miles it may be a different outcome.
  • winter51winter51 Member Posts: 5
    Funny thing about the warning lights. None came on until after the event occurred. The temperature gauge was in it's usual position, just below midline, tach was at 2150 RPM. The engine was burbling along as it normally would.

    The scary part about all of this is that had any of the shrapnel had come through the back of the engine, I wonder if any could have entered the passenger compartment.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    WOW, talk about a bad day. Very sorry to hear about it.
    Is it under an extended warrenty?
    Did the check engine light come on prior to the Bang?
    Did you happen to notice if it was overheating?
    What did the other 3 pistons look like?
    It would be interesting to get some pics. It sounds like the connecting rod between the crankshaft and piston failed or came loose on the #1 piston causing it to break the piston apart and with the right timing when it fired the piston was past its TDC and under super high pressure the piston became a fragment bomb.
    Just a guess, but it sounds good!
    Please keep us posted on the final out come and diagnosis. My CRD has the same miliage on it.
    Bob
  • captjamescaptjames Member Posts: 3
    This is exactally what happend to mine last month. To make matters worse, I bought a new used block had it installed and less than 2 later, just two days ago, while going 15mph it happend again.
  • winter51winter51 Member Posts: 5
    edited December 2010
    Bob,

    The gauges and lights were all in their normal positions/states just prior to the event. Nothing was out of the ordinary. The oil pressure light, coolant level light and the CEL came on after the event had occurred. The temperature gauge was it where it normally would be prior to the event.

    The service writer was able to show me one of the holes in the block near where number three cylinder would be located. The hole was about 2.5 inches in diameter and you could see into the crankcase itself.

    Based on what the tech told me, number one piston and connecting rod were gone.

    I have been playing telephone tag with my case manager since yesterday. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter51,
    I really wish you an efficient transaction with your case manager but if I were in your shoes, I'd be eager to play with a different Toy... Father X-mas :confuse:

    I once posted this message and maintain my position:
    http://townhall.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef1454f/715#MSG715

    Experience taught me not to operate this engine at a steady speed for long periods, never lock it into O/D at low RPM and high torque, and in my case check the external oil pump hoses on my original Italian engine block! Do you have the Chinese engine?

    I don't believe in fatality and when a connecting rod breaks there is a reason :(
  • winter51winter51 Member Posts: 5
    Caribou,

    The engine in my CRD was made in Italy. I did not realize that this engine was not as robust as it should be. So in essence, I am dealing with a marginally built diesel engine. I find this to be disconcerting.

    This was my tenth or eleventh round trip to Florida in my Jeep and it always ran smoothly and quietly. It never seemed to strain or pull that hard at most any speed. If were to purchase another European built diesel, what you recommend? I can get Mercedes, BMW and VW.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter51,
    I would consider a 'Blue Motion' VW for economy and short ownership, a BMW for a 10 year sport-family utility vehicle, the MB for less demanding elderly people and the AUDI for performance, pleasure, comfort and beautiful workmanship.

    Local criminals practice car jacking. They prefer AUDI so I don't want to temp them ;)

    This morning we had 32cm of fresh snow accumulated over a previous blanket of 15cm. The CRD with its second set of BFG AT tires climbed our narrow ramp (25%) without slipping and gave plenty acceleration. Driving down the ramp in reverse was trivial and braking was safe without need of ABS. Half way down the ramp I need to fold my mirror to pass an obstacle and reach my back yard so I am really concerned about grip on snow. My wife's little Dahiatsu Terios slips and twists while going down in reverse along the same ramp simply because its too light. This is why I may have to look for a mid size Toyota preferably one that has steel bumpers...

    Mercedes, BMW and VW sedans need easy parking access during the snow season unless someone cleans the driveway for you. Unfortunately this does not apply here :(
  • winter51winter51 Member Posts: 5
    Caribou,

    I generally keep my cars ten to twelve years and the VW Rabbit/Golf is the one I would be able to afford. The others are just too expensive to buy/maintain. Blue Motion is not available here but 4 Motion is, but only with gas.

    I can manage well with front wheel drive as we generally do not get much snow during the winter with exceptions like last season. I would use snow tires of course.

    Cars with steel bumpers are now passe' here in the U.S.A. unless you drive a pickup truck, but they too are now going to plastic as well.
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