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Comments
Always found Ford seats to be comfortable.
Malibu got traded in for the Rubicon because this old back couldn't take all the 2-3 weekly trips on I-35 for months on end.
And yes, the CRD "Was a blast to drive" and you see I still am checking here. But I didn't know that I would be living on the net and in the garage.
Wanted a body on frame that fit in the tight garage and that brought me back to mopar. Not my first choice either. Do miss climbing hills like they weren't there. Both the h3 and rubi can climb the arbuckle hill and gain speed if the approach is started at 80.
Good luck and hope you are not footing the entire bill for the new engine.
they first change a cooling temp sensor, then the fuel filter but nothing it wont start and the computer gives no code even after a reset.
the dealer tells me now i have to change 3 bad fuel injector for $1150.00 each.
please did somone had this problem and how was it solved?
Try to start your engine the way you did before posting and if the engine doesn't start reach the outlet of the exhaust pipe and inspect for residual odor (smell it) :sick:
No smell means no fuel, slight smell of fuel means not enough heat for combustion to start and possibly a glow plug issue
(A visible mist of fuel can only occur when the engine is warm enough to sustain its combustion and under extreme load. No need to use your nose in this case.)
If the battery is the problem, a potent group 34 battery should do the job. You do not need to purchase an Optima battery.
As to glow plugs, if one of them has failed totally then there is a reasonable chance that none of them will work.
Some 40 years ago during the cold season I would turn on the headlights for two minutes to warm the electrolyte of the battery then crank the engine for a short time and later insist until it would start. This was the young engineer's solution; now I use a $25 battery tender and forget about the rest :P
Are you keeping the Jeep?
I had my wife's Toyota Camy (called Daihatsu Terios here) serviced for $90 this morning. The bill felt like a summer breeze because this is the cost for one year :shades:
Am I keeping the Jeep? I wish I could but at this moment I do not know where it is. The dealer in Florida who I have contacted several times has not returned my calls so the Jeep could be on the moon for all I know. I have contacted Chrysler directly to get this dealer to respond to my calls.
I am putting together some letters to the higher ups at Chrysler hoping they will do something but I am not holding my breath.
Early yesterday afternoon the Florida dealer's service manager called me. I think my notes to Chrysler must have pissed someone off and now the s**t is flying. Based on my last conversation with this person in December it sounded like my options were quite limited. The call from Chrysler seems to have changed that. He did speak to the service manager at the dealer where I purchased the Jeep. My service manager gave the Florida service manager an earful.
Now the Florida people are talking about fixing the Jeep with a small contribution on my part say about one-quarter of the cost to get it back in shape with a new engine. I must say I am intrigued but considering that it cost me nearly $1000 to get home I figure that my input to getting the Jeep road worthy and back in my hands should be one-sixth of the cost, not one-quarter. I am going to speak with the Florida service manager later today. Stay tuned...
I have learned that the engine that goes in the Jeep is on serious back order like twelve plus weeks. Anyone in Europe have any idea what is going on?
I think part of your answer can be extrapolated by reading this French article. You'll need to translate it though...
http://www.argusautopro.com/s_informer/fiat-france---nous-allons-rapprocher-deux- - - -marques-fortes-193250.html
According to the above article Chrysler and Fiat are merging and by the end of 2011 they should be on wheels again. 'Argus' is our 'Blue Book' here. It also mentions that Alfa-Romeo will have a mid-size SUV (understand diesel) by end 2012. Could VM shares change ownership?
My wife and I would like to recover some of the expenses we incurred to get home and I asked but Chrysler said no. The service manager explained to me that after 11 January, monies became available and some policies changed, thus opening the opportunity to get my Jeep repaired.
Any and all thoughts appreciated.
$3000 is very little money in this case considering that the engine alone is the cheapest component of a standard vehicle.
How is the rest of the Jeep? Mine has to have new brakes soon, new shock absorbers, new seals on the transmission line, plus whatever I have forgotten...
Would you marry your ex-mate after a divorce? The polish is fading away now and you will be tied to the dealer for as long as you intend to keep the truck because you know what you are exposed to :sick:
You may have an emotional as well as an economic decision. Each to be dealt with separately. What is the true cost for that diesel from Italy. Did Penske sell out to someone? Is Daimler involved? How are Fiat/Chrysler/VM connected.
There are rock crawlers clamoring for a diesel that diesel whatever in a wrangler. Believe Darby rock crawls/crawled with his - don't know, can't seem to get away to join the off roaders.
Impolitely, there are vultures(smart buyers) out there. Maybe instead of taking a hit, like cleaning an old painting, the value of the crd after spending $3k would be greater than the value now and $3k in your pocket.
Better_Half and I loved test driving that 2004.5 2500 cummins years ago and maybe that was part of the emotion in her crd purchase. We wont have anything to do with the crd. And probably the time of the diesel, for now is dead. Owned a /2 bmw and only saw a couple guzzi's never met a guzzi owner.
The rest of the Liberty is in very good condition. It has been off road one time as I wanted to find out how much of a grade the bugger would handle (to 40%). I got scared after a 30% climb in low 4WD as I was getting uncomfortable with the angle. The Jeep was stable.
The brakes I redid at about 42K miles but I put on much stouter stuff (cross drilled and slotted rotors, Hawk pads) which have yielded much better braking performance than stock. I have in excess of 20K miles on the pads and the rotors are clean (no grooves or warping). The rest of the suspension is in good shape as 98% of what the Jeep sees is highway driving. The rear shocks are a touch soft but I can replace those myself. Everything else is tight.
The Jeep has seen duty in heavy deep snow which it has handle with great aplomb and ease.
You certainly bring the good news to this forum!
Were you told why and which component failed in your engine?
Inadequate distribution of oil flow in the lubrication circuit was common 40 years ago. I searched for such problems happening with the VM engines and found nothing concerning failure of connecting rod or crankshaft bushings nor any information concerning defective (graphite?) water pump bushings (separate issue).
If your engine suffered from mechanical fatigue (Woeller-curve) then we could incriminate the higher torque value of the recent engines applied to a weak point of the old connecting rod design.
From the day your problem occurred, I began listening carefully to my engine during cold starts with the intention to switch it OFF quickly in case it would knock.
My original glow plugs are still fine for starting below freeze point after seven years. Chrysler provided good equipment when they were brainstorming about this engine for the NA market
Been out of touch when got access to write that earlier response.
After my last post, got a chance to check lost and found posts of at least one other failure and response about nine crates coming from Italy. $10k seems to be the going rate.
Again, congratulations and you win with both the monetary and emotional decision. And thank you FIAT/Chrysler for winter2's fix.
Was wondering if you had any luck finding a mechanic around Toronto. I've got a similar issue with my CRD, and I'm just 2 hrs down the road in Rochester. Have done some of my own diagnosing but haven't found the right thing yet.
Besides the advice you got here, I'd recommend checking the website called lostjeeps.com - they have extensive tips on the CRD.
-Rob
I really do not think the oil or lack thereof had anything to do with the catastrophic failure I experienced. I am convinced that there was a defective part (connecting rod) and with your comment about parts looking like they came out of a motorcycle, that in itself does not bode well.
It is a rare occurrence for a diesel to implode the way mine did unless there was poor maintenance. I am guessing that the part(s) that broke had issues to begin with.
I will be writing to the oil company, Lubro Moly, to see what their warranty covers and to see if oil analysis on their part can find fault with their oil.
I have asked the dealer to hold onto the old engine block and pull the oil pan before sending the sucker back to Chrysler. I intend to take pictures and hopefully post them here for all to see and for all to comment on. It will be about three to four months before I see the Jeep in running condition.
Maybe bad fuel (gas in diesel). Did it have a K&N air filter? over oiling them I have read can cause engine failure. Oil getting sucked into the turbo can also over pressurize a cylinder. (this is why many like to install a Provent filter).
Back in my teenage years, a friend had a beater 55 chevy, The block broke at the oil filter, the filter and the part of the block it attached to seperated from the motor, leaving a large hole in the block and most of the oil went with it. Just to see how long it would last, we drove it for 2 more hours, trying to blow it up, no success. We finally parked it in a vacant lot and put a brick on the gas pedel. It ran wide open for about 15 more minutes before it finally seized. (we were hoping for something more dramatic).
As to the K&N filter, that is a non-issue. I clean and re-oil the filter yearly and do not over oil it. I check the passages on the clean side of the filter and there is no oil film any where to be found. The MAF sensor is also clean.
There is always a little bit of oil in the hose between the CAC and the engine intake where the butterfly valve lives. The hose has a small coating of sticky goo that is easily cleaned with mild solvent.
I am still convinced that there was a defect in a connecting rod. Once the engine is opened up, we will see for sure.
That stated, I had them replace the pump when the belt service came due. I kept the old pump. Upon inspection it appeared to be in quite good shape. Cant see why it would have failed so prematurely.
Is the heater you are referring to the viscous unit driven by the serpentine belt? If so that is a cabin heater, used when the vehicle internal thermostat requests heat. It is a viscous heater and fairly robust. Not likely to expire. Especially unlikely both pump and heater would simultaneously fail!
You are talking about around $600 in parts to replace the above. It is about a 4 hour job for someone who knows what they are doing.
Any more news?
I know this does not help you too much. But it might explain why they fixed your CRD's problems. Just for your info, VM is also going to supply the CRD's for the Jeeps that will be for US use. They are not the same as the one we had.
I have only seen two CRD's in Missouri, and most used ones have been inCalif and AZ. Odd because their smog emission standards were not allowing New sales of the CRD's.
I surely wish all of you with CRD's good fortune. I do believe Chrysler would still be interested in any problems you experience. Maybe they still would help you? Would you still have bought a CRD if you knew what was ahead?ps: sorry about the underlining I can'y stop the darn thing!
I have no explanation for why this happened except I can say it's been started and driven at -26F and also run across Death Valley when it was 118F over a pass with a full load of gear. It's been from 280 feet below sea level to Loveland Pass at 11,999 feet all on the same trip. I"m pretty sure VM Motori hasn't bothered to consider vacationing with me but they should, I probably could eventually somehow damage anything they make.
It's gone 13 hour stretches on I80 at 80 all day and then parked outside, not plugged in and started at -15F.
I've even yanked bushes out of my yard by the roots.
Had the usual transmission, front pump, reflash stuff but I had no complaints about it and my dealer service department has been really buttoned up and never gives me a sour look when I drive in, they have a bunch of diesel techs because they also sell/service Dodge.
Turbo replaced awhile back under warranty and I'm only on my second EGR
Crazy thing is I still like this vehicle.
Just turned over 80,000 miles. I guess I'll squeeze a few more out of it.
Thanks to everyone who posts on here, it's been great to be able to read about the variety of experiences, issues and likes about the CRD. Puts some of this in context.
Once I send them my portion of the money then they will do the repair. I have told them that they will need to drive the Jeep for at least a week before I take possession of it again and the dealer has agreed to this.
They are going to hold the engine for me to see, but they are reluctant to pull the oil pan off for me to see what has occurred. I just might bring my own tools and do it myself.
Not up to Chrysler standards? How recently was that tidbit passed onto you?
A new engine from VM? That should be intriguing!!!
If I knew that this engine was going to be as difficult as it was I might have taken a harder look at VM products and asked a few more questions. At the time I purchased my Jeep I had also considered a VW TDI (pre-common rail) and they were having their own aggravation with them too. The thing that killed it for VW was that the dealer insisted that I had to come to them for service otherwise VW would void the warranty. I really had no time to argue with them about and bought the Jeep.
As to the so-called "new" engine, my guess that the engine is going to be the RA428. It is similar to ours but the big difference is the injectors which are piezo-electric allowing for more quick consecutive injections, allowing for a cleaner, quieter burn plus another 40 lb-ft of torque. The question is did VM gussy up the rest of the parts to handle the addition torque and will Chrysler have a torque converter to handle the additional torque without crapping out like ours did.
And given 40 extra foot pounds of torque, I agree that it would be good if we can assume they have beefed up con rods, wrist pins and main bearings. I would write them (VM Motori) a postal mail to tech dept and ask them. If the auto is the same 5 speed that is used in the Grand Cherokee, you should be OK there. Ask Chrysler to be sure. It may not be as I don't think they had the TC issues the Liberty had.
I have read quite a few of your earlier posts and I feel your pain. Was glad that your near give-up turned into a perseverance that paid off near the end, even though having to anti up 3 grand is no pocket change by any stretch of the imagination, it is way better than the total loss that would have been the alternative. Your story hit pretty close to home with me as I too do all my own work. I keep records of the date and time, what all was done, all the receipts and I even rub a dirty oiled finger or two on my maintenance schedule for even greater authenticity. I'm honest in my claims but they don't know that.
Sam
The trans on the Grand Cherokee CDI is not the RFE 545 but the NAG-5, a Mercedes slushbox. It is a a fairly good trans for the CDI but they also used it in the Chrysler Crossfire and in that application it was a hunk of junk.
This past Friday I stopped at the dealer where I purchased my CRD and told them the news. The service manager urged me to hold off on writing to Sergio until after I get my CRD back from Florida. They have one in their shop right now that will be getting a new engine that Chrysler is paying for. The engine has a significant oil consumption issue and only has 67K miles on it. The owner has had the dealer do all of the oil changes and all of the usual culprits have been ruled out. I am good friends with the diesel tech there and he is not looking forward to doing the engine swap.
A significant oil consumption do you say?
Does it burn the oil or leak to the ground?
Mine produces a messy oil stain pattern, wherever I park, near the junction of the tranny and engine. Seen from the back of the Jeep it looks like this:
° °
O O
The funny thing is that my fluid levels are always good!
I might have it wrong but does it seem that the Liberty CRD's are having more issues as they get more miles on them?
My Pacifica AWD now has 94,600 miles on it and we like it better all the time. I wish the CRD would have worked out as Chrysler thought. But for us 25 times in the shop in 16 months was too much for Chrysler and us.
farout
You are unforgettable!
I have the Liberty CRD and up to the point where the engine let go my primary issues had been the trans, namely torque converters and more recently glow plugs namely number 2 (dealer fixed) and number four ( I fixed).
Outside of that, the engine gave me very few problems except for a pulley (Timing belt) that went bad (dealer fixed), EGR valve and a computer flash.
I forgot to respond to Caribou's oil leak. Caribou, look at the CVCC on top of the valve cover toward the rear of the engine. Check the hose(s) as they may not be tight fitting any longer. I had a similar issue with oil on the right side of the engine. I Cleaned out the CVCC (make sure you treat the gasket gently) and reattched the hose(s) with some gasket cement. That did the trick.
Are you the one with the light weight travel trailer? If so do you still like it? How many miles on your CRD now?
farout
I had completely forgotten I had crankcase ventilation.
I did nothing on the Jeep last year, it was in much better shape than I was :sick: :sick: :sick:
I do not have a trailer of any kind.
As to the torque converters on the CRD, the tech at the dealer told that they are pretty okay but the failures that they suffered early on were related to a transmission programming issue (too much slippage, I think). When this one fails, I will replace it with a Suncoast converter and add a shift kit. I am also going to have the tech put a drainplug into the pan of the trans so I can drain the fluid every 10K miles and add fresh.
As my CRD stands, it has 77,594 miles on it.
As far as I can tell they replaced the original T..C.'s with one about the same in most cases, just posponing the failure until the rigs are out of warrenty. If you tow much, yours will fail sooner. The Suncoast is one of the best, but it is pricey, $800-$1000 just for the part. the drain plug kit cost about $8 at Napa auto parts. It is an easy install. The Trans-go kit is also a pretty easy install, (Under $40) only a bit messy (I did both myself in my driveway). It makes your shifts more positive, but I think the computer compensates for the kit to a degree over time. A provent kit which is a simple filter system costs about $160+ but is well worth it. Another easy install, except you need to build a bracket to mount it. It removes most of the oil from the CCV system that has destroyed many peoples turbos. It keeps your CRD breathing clean, and will increase your MPG at the same time. The LostJeets forum has tons if info and every CRD owner should check it out and start reading. These jeeps are not for the normal person. Corners were cut and adaptions were made for the U.S. market to for smog reasons that you can fix now and save your engine. For between $200 and $300, you may save your $10,000 engine, which is basically a very good little engine.
hope this helps: Bob
However, I spoke to my local dealer who had recently replaced an engine in a CRD that had a serious oil consumption problem. It took the tech about four or five days to swap out the engines. They did open the old engine (pulled the head) and what do you think they found? Oval, misshaped cylinder bores/sleeves, especially #4 cylinder. They have no clue as to how or what caused the issue or how long it took the sleeves to get into that condition.
So for those of you with CRDs that eat oil, this might be a place to look/consider.