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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Gary: The EPA has had standards long before the Jeep Crd failed it's owners. My "green Beast" was a good body just a cheaply made junky engine, that was Jeep designers fault for looking for the least expensive CRD they could put in at the time. Form the very first in 2005 when these CRD's came out the Service Tec's felt these engines were going to be big problems, and they were and still are for many. Was blessed to have Jeep call me and ask if they could buy back my CRD. My CRD was in the shop 25 times in 16 months, not a stellar record that's for sure. I was so glad to get out of that CRD.

    The CRD's that seem to have been better is ones that did not get "de-tuned & a new torque converter" That totally destroyed the HP and pulling power. Who is to blame for that?

    Here is wahts really stupid, the Jeep GC is going to have a nother V.M. CRD soon as ALPAR has reported.

    I wonder how many CRD's were bought back by Jeep, and where they wound up? When I trace my old "Green Beast" the VIN does not show up. I t might have been shipped to a foregin country, which is not unheard of.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    If your 'Green Beast' was sent abroad, it must have lost its emission control add-ons along the way and should work fine today, just like mine :blush:

    I see more gassers here nowadays, because local prices for diesel and gas are practically even price wise and mileage between both types of engines is practically the same.
    I kept my 15 year old Toyota diesel for the city and the Jeep is mainly used for long trips and holidays with the family :shades:
  • thecipthecip Member Posts: 18
    Hi All, I need to state before I type that I am as far from a mechanic as Tim Tebow is to a pocket QB. My 2006 CRD with 120K miles threw its timing belt. From YouTube videos and other posts I can assume at minimum there is rocker and valve damage. Yes I now know the manual said to change the timing belt at 80K!

    Here is my issue. My neighbor, who rebuilds Hondas, wants to tear into it and fix it this spring. The parts are probably going to be upwards of 2K I figure. Not being a mechanic and relying on a volunteer to fix an engine does not appeal to me. Anyone think there is a market for a CRD with internal issues?

    Thanks!
    Cip
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    How far are you from Maine. I'd be interested in buying the old engine. You may have bent rods and or damaged pistons. As well.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I beleive this is an interferance engine, and bent valves is just about a 96% sure thing. To fis the head and do a valve job would be more than my four cyclender Dodge Neon, and it is going to be $ 1,500. I know these CRD's engines are REALLY EXPENSIVE to r&r. My 2005 CRD was bought back by Chrysler in 07. Good luck.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    If he is a mechanic, he should be able to fix it.
    I have seen engines on EBAY from wrecked CRD's.
    Many people have waited past 120k miles to change the timing belt with no problems and expressed how good it still looked for 120k+ miles.
    I am planing on doing mine around 100k miles.
    go to the LostJeeps forum for a list of the parts you will need and suppliers who you may be able to save a few bucks buying through.
    Best of luck.
  • thecipthecip Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the pointer to lostjeeps. That is a pretty long parts list !!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited March 2012
    We aren't set up for buying and selling on the forums. You can mark your email public in your Profile if you want to talk to another member about parting out your car. Thanks.
  • thecipthecip Member Posts: 18
    will do .. sorry about that !
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    OK now I need to figure how to do that.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited March 2012
    There should be a "Display my e-mail address" option when you click on the Community Profile link in the right sidebar. If it doesn't work for some reason, shoot me an email and we'll figure something else out.
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    I have a 2006 desel Ex lease, had to put a new motor in it. the dealer wanted 15000.00 for a new motor. $ 2000,00 to put it in.
    I found a used motor in bellingham. at a wreaking yard. 05 with a little less miles on it.( $ 4500)

    The dealer offered me $ 1500 for the car,with no motor.

    With the motor out, I put a new timing belt in.
    Anne
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    I am new to the forum.
    I have a 2006 white jeep liberty diesel.
    How do you stop the black smoke from happening?
    I have people drop back from me, like I am going to blow up.
    I heard that you can bypass the EGR valve?
    Any ideas
    thanks Anne
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Every once in a while it helps to floor it through the gears a few times to clean out the soot in the catalytic.

    The easiest way to kill the EGR is go to http://www.greendieselengineering.com
    they can reprogram the engine and transmission computers.
    I gained about 15% on mileage after having it done.
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    Thanks for the information for the jeep.
    Which program did you use?
    Have you had any problems with it?
    I drive back and forth to north Van everyday so I would like to see the mileage increase.
    I have changed a lot of things on this jeep,had to put in another motor,(never buy a ex lease).
    Thanks Anne
  • fomocoguyfomocoguy Member Posts: 1
    It is an interface engine, but the rockers are all designed to fail instead of causing engine damage. The valves, pistons, and rods should all be fine, but he should have to replace all the rockers, which aren't particularly cheap.
  • mtngoat1mtngoat1 Member Posts: 4
    when should the timing belt be changed?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    From what I have been reading between 100k and 120k. Although I think they recommend it at around 80k miles. there are alot of other parts that you replace at the same time, water pump, thermostat, etc... that add up, but since they are exposed while doing the timing belt and major jobs on their own, this is the time to do them.
    From my experiance the water pump will usually go out before the timing belt. If the belt breaks, you may destroy the engine, so it is a calculated risk. So, 100k is a good rule of thumb and gives you a good bench mark for future belt changes.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have been away for some time and I will post a few more times before I leave this blog altogether.

    Something funny dawned on me the other day. The Liberty diesel has an oil capacity of 6.4 quarts for 2.8L of displacement. The diesels that were placed in the Grand Cherokee take 10 quarts of oil and displace 3.0L. Way back in the early 1980's, I owned an Isuzu I-Mark with a 1.8L diesel that took almost eight quarts of oil while a new VW TDI (2.0L) takes 4.6 quarts. Now am I crazy or is there something wrong with this picture? Where am I going with this? Well, the better made diesels like Daimler, BMW and Isuzu have significantly larger crankcase capacity than the VM Motori monstrosity found in the Liberty. What does this tell you? Well, as we all know the environment in a diesel is pretty ugly so more oil allows for greater dilution of contaminants thus longer engine life. Obviously, VM Motori builds crap.

    AS to those of you with a jumped/broken timing belt, the followers that open the valves are cracked so they are designed to break easily if the piston hits the valves.

    My letter to Chrysler is nearly completed and will be going out soon. It is my intention to post it here once it has been mailed.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    edited May 2012
    Thank you for this post. I've been wondering about you. I've even checked the Mercury threads. Good to hear from you and hope everything else in life is treating you well.

    I don't even read Lost let alone post there anymore. And while I read the other jk forums, I only have a login here. And just like this crd forum, the jk forums have a few worth reading posters and the rest is fluff or old items discovered by new owners coming late to the party.

    Don't know about you but at times I am ready to buy an old frame and build a real vehicle with real aftermarket parts.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    Were you given the real cause of your problem?
    I remember the dealer telling me that the VM engine and transmission were not designed for driving long distances at 1,800 rpm with a locked converter. This condition is of course not applicable to the 'de-rated' version I have but on the other hand mine is running perfectly after 9 years and a preventive timing belt change at 60,000 miles.
    Concerning oil, I continue to use a mid-priced semi-synthetic diesel oil and I replace it every 15,000 miles. I never used the CRD for short distances so I was never concerned with water absorbsion and never needed to add oil between service intervals.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Hello Dave and Caribou,

    Chrysler never gave me a reason as to why the engine let go the way it did. The Jeep is still sitting in Florida and it looks like we will be getting an attorney involved to resolve the issue. The dealer never took the engine apart to see what happened and the area manager would not authorize money to do so. In my view, Chrysler and the Florida dealer are trying to bury this.

    At the time of the incident I was doing 70 MPH (about 110 KPH). The tachometer showed 2200 RPM and the A/C was not on. As I have said previously, the problem occurred without any warning of any kind. As I understand it, since Chrysler's merger with FIAT, there is talk of bringing diesel back to some Chrysler products. I am unable to ascertain who will make the engines but if it is VM, then forget it. If FIAT makes it, then I will consider it.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    It is a common preventative procedure referred to as blowing its nose.
    As you are going up an on ramp, down shift and floor it. They say to do it once a week. keep accellerating until the black smoke stops, withour over reving the engine. This cleas out the syste.
    Check the lostjeeps forum to get hints from some very experianced CRD owner's / back yard mechanics
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    I Did that very thing on the way home tonight from work,
    It sure builds up. I have people drop right back,when I do this.
    We have a Dodge 2500 so the diesel is in the family.
    I am looking at bypassing the EGR
    I will look at the lostjeep forum.
    thanks Anne
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Winter2,

    On the wrangler forum I posted about another forum with a title of a thread about the comments by a dealership regarding the wrangler, known as the JK.

    But at the same time I was keeping up with a thread about a wrangler whose motor went south while driving down the highway without warning. Granted it was the gasser but it shows the treatment by the dealer. Also everyone has stories about the regional reps telling the dealers to stuff it. Even a good dealer sometimes has to fight, probably without success, for a customer in a perfectly real warranty claim. Part of my last visit with our wrangler was out of pocket by me to replace my hayden tranny cooler with the new mopar unit that should've been standard at least in hot areas of the country. Why didn't I fight to get one free. Less grief for the dealer and save my battle for a big issue since we bought a Lifetime $50 deductible warranty on top of the factory Lifetime powertrain warranty. Even bought a new tail light because the original one filled up with water from a failed top seal.

    Anyway, there is another thread on a jeep forum in the Stock Jk listing called "Tranny and Engine destroyed" . It's a good read especially if you're going to fight. Even if Fiat provides a new diesel, I am watching GM, Ford, Toyota, Honda and another but my old body can't get down into anything, I have to step up to sit down.

    Good Luck and sorry for all the extraneous chatter in this post.
  • crdstercrdster Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2012
    I am having the same problem that narovers had in posting #2749. (Problem -> ABS light and Brake light illuminated on the dash. I shut down the engine, re-started and the lights went out only to come on again later while traveling. Also, odometer stops when these lights are on.)

    Narovers, what was the solution to your problem? Did anyone else have the same problem and if so what was the solution?
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Dave,

    My wife and I are nearly done with a letter to Chrysler CEO Sergio Marchionne. We also have some pretty ugly pictures of the engine itself which I will eventually post, along with the letter.

    I will look at the listing you suggest as time permits. Unfortunately at the time I purchased the CRD, a lifetime warranty was never offered or at least I never heard of one.

    I still miss that CRD from time to time. It was actually a pretty good vehicle but required a fair amount of time to keep it running correctly.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    I have this problem with my 2000 cherokee and it seems to happen to alot of jeeps although not yet with my 06 crd.
    on the Cherokee it is a bad connection in the firewall plug between the engine compartment and the drivers compartment.
    usually shutting it down and restarting it fixes it for awhile often for months.
    It has not bothered me enough to look for a perminand solution.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Winter2,

    Sorry for my confusing post mixing our wrangler with the crd and also my mistake of the reference to "Stock Jeep listing". However a google search of the threads' title will bring it up. The thread has a lot of posts and reads and I believe it may now be on Facebook per at least one post in the thread.

    I believe we bought some factory warranty on the crd because contrary to the advice about "insurance" we lately always buy one. It was just before picking up our wrangler that a post on a forum mentioned they bought a lifetime warranty from Chrysler. That's how we found out and bought one. We've used it for jeep again just recently used it and also just used our H3 extended warranty again.

    Time and a vehicle you like will have the crd become a memory and like memories, the good will get amplified and the bad will seem to disappear. Farout and I obviously kept checking back but after a while I was checking back to see how you were doing. The crd could've been great but for at least the egr, torque converter, and that motor. Didn't Darby at lost have his motor blow up brand new and they gave him a new crd or new motor, I don't remember. Was it retmil who found casting sand? in his?

    Thanks for getting back to us and again Good Luck and Best Wishes
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Tired old dave: I saw your name on the post that wsa sent to me. So I had to write back and at least say HI...

    I have completly lost track of our old "green beast". We use to have a couple drifting about in our area, but no longer see them either.

    What is all this about this warranty you mentioned? If you recall we bought a Pacifica Touring AWD in 8/07 it has the Lifetime warranty plus we bought the Max Care Service Contract. We have 125,500 on it now. We go anywhere we want to the AWD is really so nice. And no problems to really speak about. So at least we are very pleased.

    Chrysler is now going to put the VM diesel V6 3.L engine in the RAM 1500 sometime the last or earl part od 13. Fiat bought out te rest of those involved with VM. Fiat has Chrysler and this makes it very interesting to see what happens. Drop a line back on this engine and warranty you are talking about.

    farout
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    "it has the Lifetime warranty plus we bought the Max Care Service Contract"

    That's probably the name of our contract. Our wrangler came with Lifetime powertrain warranty but we bought a $50 deductible lifetime everything(almost) warranty. As long as I don't go Jeep and mod the wrangler and some crazy dealer or regional rep doesn't tell me to stuff it, then as long as we own the wrangler (keep up the maintenace etc) we plop down $50 and get a new mygig nav radio or a/c fixed or new freedom top or etc.

    Coming up on 70k miles and the wrangler has been a lot less hassle than the crd but not hassle free. Dealers, as I have said since owning a wrangler should be required to have mechanics who own and use wranglers and maybe be given a "Wrangler Certified" blessing. Now when a stock wrangler comes in and if the customer really understands part time 4wd and a transfer case they can get help. Wrangler ads show them doing things some dealers say they shouldn't be doing. Hilarious. At the same time some lucky owners mod the heck out of them then complain about warranty and get their dealers to fix something. Sorry for this wrangler rant, guess I should put it in a wrangler thread.

    Funny but before we got rid of the crd we dropped by a local dealer and almost took a test drive in a Pacifica after sitting in one. The elderly salesman even owned one.

    Agree AWD is nice. Better_half's Adventure package H3 with full time 4wd is nice. No handle to pull and hope a plastic clip doesn't break. Dry, start to rain or snow nothing changes just keep on driving. Glad you are enjoying your Pacifica, you went thru a lot with Libertys the buy back and all. When the dealer finally replaced the ball joints on our wrangler the mechanic joked they swung like a clapper in a bell. They probably were bad when the drag link and tie rod were changed earlier but still long overdo. When the ball joints were replaced I remembered your post about getting four? sets of ball joints on a Dakota? Maybe if I do keep my first real jeep until my end, maybe I'll go through four sets of ball joints too.
  • cdp3cdp3 Member Posts: 4
    edited June 2012
    My 06 Liberty diesel has been fairly trouble free until recently.As I was accelerating from a stop sign it instatnly lost power. It refired again for about ten seconds and has not started since. Anybody got any ideals. I changed fuel filter and primed system. Fuel is getting to the injectors. I also checked all fuses and switched some relays around to see if it was electrical with no luck. Please give me some leads. thanks chris
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    If there is fuel pressure, you must then check for the injector timing pulse. NAPA had a kit containing IODS for the most popular manufactures injectors. You unplug the wire at the injector and plug the Iod in. The Iod will flash when the engine is cranked if there is a pulse. If it doesn't I would suspect the crank position sensor. My last choice would be a bad EMC. I would check the big plug at the firewall, perhaps unplug it and clean it with electrical cleaner. With no code, this is what I'd do. Good luck.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Just some more thoughts as I reflect on your problem. I forgot that Iodes are actually called Nodes. Also, the first thing I'd do if you couldn't read any codes is to disconnect one of the battery cables for a few minutes and reconnect it. This will reset the EMC to the default settings and might eliminate the problem. Lastly, hope you don't have a broken Timing Belt. Let us know what you find out. My 05 CRD has 93k miles. I have a new belt, water pump, and tensioner as a kit from NAPA, but because I'm a full time RVer and the CRD is my Tag along, I have to wait until I'm at my friends farm where I have all my tools in my cargo trailer parked there. Some owners have gone 130k miles before changing it and others have had the timing belt fail way earlier. If it breaks, the damage can be bad.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    possibly turbo failure.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Maybe the turbo, but I had a cracked intercooler from my wife hitting a deer and she was able to drive the CRD back to the farm. I have a boost gauge and knew from zero pressure that the turbo system was the cause of 35 mph max & slow acceleration. I started fine and idled well. Just from my experience.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Hey cdp3. Whats happening with the CRD? Any news or clues. I'm currently in the Yukon on my way to Alaska, so internet is not easy to find. I hope you got the little Jeep running.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    elder2 has some good points, check the least expensive first, the Crankcase position sensor, if this fails the engine will not start, sometimes they can be cleaned but usually they need to be reploaced.
    There may also be camshaft position sensor (s) that also will stop the engine if it fails.
    I had one fail on my Porsche and it would turn over but not fire.
  • jim66wrightjim66wright Member Posts: 7
    this weekend, the 2005 CRD started acting like it was running out of diesel. I looked at the fuel filter and it had 40k miles on it! Never looked at it, bad mistake. Changed it by taking the unit off the fire wall and replaced it with a new one. No leaks, when I pumped it up, and it still lurches, like it was sucking air or something. I keep pumping the air out, so I think it is sucking air in somewhere. There are no codes, and it idles perfectly. I drove to work, and it would do 70 but there seems to be no turbo and still starved for fuel. It takes a full press on the peddle to get it just running without missing and lurching. Y'all helped me with the water pump issue, hopefully this will be similar.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Costs were cut on the Liberty CRD, one of which was not putting in the In Tank fuel pump. The wiring is there, located under the carpet (rear seat drivers side), Many of us have picked up a fuel pump, fuel gage sensor from an early 2000's Dodge diesel truck, either from EBAY or a wrecking yard and installed in inside our tanks. This gives the fuel system positive pressure to supply the engine driven fuel pump which has to suck the fuel all the way from the tank. With positive pressure everything runs smother and any "air sucking" is eliminated. Some have chosen toinstall an in-line seperate fuel pump as close to the tank as possible rather than drop the tank and install a more original design set up.
    The most likely culpret for your "air sucking" are the "banjo" styly fuel line connectors back near your fuel tank. These are notorious for leaking and should be replaced with common hose clamps.
    There are tutorials on line on just how to install the in-tank fuel pump.
    Hope this helps: Bob
  • jim66wrightjim66wright Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, Bob. I will do so. The dealer here in High Point, read 5 codes yesterday, and says it is lurching due to the glow plug module. Strange. I am paying him $100, and getting my Jeep back. He wants to replace all the glow plugs, and the module for $785. Sounds crazy. Starts great, and idles fine, but under load, loses power. I will post the codes once I have the Jeep back. Great idea on the fuel sending pump. Will do right away.
  • mtngoat1mtngoat1 Member Posts: 4
    i had a similar problem, turned out it was the turbo hose going bad! dont ever let a jeep dealer work on your crd! good luck!
  • jim66wrightjim66wright Member Posts: 7
    Just got the Liberty back, and the CRD cleared codes were: P0299, underboost, P0101 MAF sensor, and P0093 fuel system large leak (which i was the cause of when I changed the fuel filter and did not remove the older small gasket in the center and tried to screw the new filter on with two small center gaskets. BTW there is a conical one that I left on, I hope this was correct????? :confuse: )
    Now that these are cleared the only ones are P0673 and P0672, #2 and #3 glow plug circuit issues. Now I was looking at the quote, 3 hours to change the four plugs to the new steel ones, and the module; one hour to reflash the ECM, $257 for the replacement kit (vs $159 on EBay); $38 for a OEM air filter and .2 hours to change it ($25 at $125/hr).
    I still cannot believe that the glow plugs will make the difference, but the adviser, says it is a complicated engine, and they have corrected this problem before. OK, really?
    thanks for all your comments, the list is growning, as this will be my daughters first car, and I want it to be as perfectly reliable for her, as it has been for me till now.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for the latest news. I believed that the ceramic glow plugs were the best? We haven't heard of many failures of them on this site. I have noticed that on warm restarts or on warm days that the glow plug lite doesn't come on at all. Why did they have to reflash the ECM and then charge you for it? I would guess they didn't have a clue as to why the CRD stopped running and where just covering all the possabilities to be sure they fixed it. The Maf and low boost codes could have been caused by air in the fuel system, which would be my guess, causing low power and eventually stalling. I will keep doing all my own work for as long as I can. I and my wife love our CRD and are the original owners and I hope the last. I plan on 300K + miles. Good luck to us all.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    if it starts and idles, I cannot see it being the glow plugs.
  • jim66wrightjim66wright Member Posts: 7
    thanks elder2.
    I have only had her for about 6 months, but my daughter has to steal it from me. I am leaving the ceramics, in for now, changing the filter housing this weekend to the newest version, changing all the clamps and installing a oil catch can to keep the EGR and intake clean. After that the next on the list is a lift pump for the fuel...then we will see.
    thanks again for all the help.
  • jim66wrightjim66wright Member Posts: 7
    All the lurching was the intercooler hose. It was a small slit on the back of the hose that I missed, until I was willing to reach around and actually feel for it...I took it off, and repaired it with silicone adhesive, after cleaning it very well with dawn and hot water to get all the mobil one out of it...then let it cure and wrapped it in gorilla tape. This is temp until the new one comes in from Steve White in NC. They have been great, lowest prices and very quick shipping. He assured me that it was an improvement, and disabling the EGR would help a ton with the blow by into the intercooler. Thanks all.
    Now that I have the new fuel filter housing and filter, which should be next? Lift pump or TDC power box programmer. Seems to do the same as the Green Engineering but for $150! Too good to be true?
  • jm8032jm8032 Member Posts: 2
    Time for a Timing Belt/ Water pump (100,000 Miles)... We have Jeep dealers in the area but are not experienced with the CDR. Anyone know of a mechanic in or near North Georgia with knowledge of the little Diesel? I’m just not comfortable doing it myself although there are a bunch of articles online!
    Have had no BIG problems with the truck to this point. Did disconnect the EGR and CCV at 30,000 miles. Replaced a CAC hose at 50,000 (split) and front half-shaft(boot torn). Always used Amsoil 15W/45 ( never under 40 degrees where I travel & mostly above 80 Deg) Diesel Oil, 6,000 mile change and add Diesel Kleen most tanks of fuel.
    I really love the liberty and have committed to the expense of the next 100,000 miles. This site has given me a lot of information about the truck and has helped it to be trouble-free. I am not sure I would have purchased the vehicle had I read this forum first!
  • emp2emp2 Member Posts: 20
    edited September 2012
    Does the TDC programmer change the shift points ? Green Engineering does which will help the increase miles per gallon a lot .
  • tntsectntsec Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    CAN YOU TELL ME EXACTLY WHICH INTANK PUMP IS THE CLOSEST FIT FOR MY 06 CRD LIBERTY? AND IS THE LENGTH CORRECT AS FAR AS THE STRAINER AND ALL TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK? AND DOES THE FUEL GAUGE WORK PROPELY? THANKS FOR ANY INFO
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