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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Robert Petersen unclebob9@gmail.com
    8:19 AM (0 minutes ago)

    to noreply

    I used one from a 2003 Ram Diesel and it fit fine.
    I think I switched the float arm from the one I removed from the liberty with the one than came with the Ram.
    The wires for the pump were factory installed in the Liberty, however to access them they are conceiled under the carpet, drivers side passanger floor.
    since the jeep's electrical connector to the unit only has 2 wires, even though it is the correct 4 prong plug, I removed the 2 brass connectors from the Liberty unit I removed and fitted them into the jeeps existing plug so that I had a 4 wire plug.
    If you buy the fuel pump'sender from a junk yard, request the plug and at least 6" of the wire that connects to it. This will make it alot easier.
    You can buy this connector after market, but they want a rediculous amount for it, like $60 or something.
    Make sure your tank is low on fuel to make it easier to lift in and out.

    These pics will help you: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=179531&highlight=jeep+li- berty+fuel+module

    It you go to the LostJeeps forum, there are step by step instructions.

    I think I paid less than $50 for the Dodge unit on EBAY. it is a direct physical fit. It is spring loaded do self adjusting for the height.

    HOpe this is of help: Bob
  • dsietadsieta Member Posts: 7
    Just traded my 2005 because I couldn't find anyone who knew about it. Only 55K but the timing belt is now 7+ years old. Also kind of disappointed in all the little (not little $$) needed things to make it worthwhile to keep i.e. SEGR Provent, Green diesel chip, extra lift in-tank pump, etc. Could be a great vehicle if you want to be that involved. Hope it finds a good home. Never really had any problems with it. Unhooked the egr/maf at about 20k.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    It is a not a car for someone who does not want to get involved.
    It is like a Harley, needs some attention but well worth it for those who love the concept. Jeep and the EPA screewed up a really nice car. We just have to reverse what they did.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    edited October 2012
    Dave in Georgia has a nice ride. Can't tell if it's 4wd with parasitic mopar front axle mpg loss. Bet that egr pollution of the intake doesn't exist. Not providing a direct link but you can find a nice Comanche in the October newsletter at rockauto. I'm sure that there are many examples out there but I don't seem to care about diesels anymore.

    Why do I check in here then you might ask- to check on posts from winter and his saga.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited October 2012
    Chrysler probably expect people to forget.

    After 9 years my CRD is still running fine, the body doesn't rust, nothing is torn nor deteriorated due to the dog, carrying bicycles and grandchildren.
    The only leak I had to fix came from the ferrules of the common rail pipes that I removed and re-installed.
    The Provent is still waiting on a shelf, mileage has never been optimal but the engine is peppy, starts as I turn the key and still has the original glow plugs.
    I had the suspensions and wheel alignment checked after a technical inspection and everything was found safe and sound.
    The pollution test done at several engine regimes and accelerations reveals 'lower than minimal' values.

    This 150HP engine was declared 'de-rated' compared to the 163HP version and I still don't understand what 'de-rated' means; could it be a distinction?
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    I jusf installed a eco tune from Green Diesel will let you know how it works.
    So far ( No light on the dash,Has been on for months)
    More RPM and quick to start off the stop line.
    Have been off work for a week,so can not tell about the milage so far.
    I do about 100 miles a day.

    Anne
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    with mine the eco-tune had little if any effect on miliage, the provent seemed to have a positive effect on miliage and I did it prior to the eco-tune. the eco-tune had a noticeable positive effect on power and does get rid of the check engine light due to the provent.
    My CRD was getting 30+ mpg on the freeway from the day I bought it after disconnecting the maf (or map, I get them confused) sensor.

    bob
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited November 2012
    My Jeep always averaged 22.5 mpg throughout the year, and 11L/100Km is what the CRD was supposed to do according to our tax(es) calculation.
    I use A/C, 4WD every now and then, give the engine time to warm-up in the winter, drive 130 Km/h all day on the motorway when needed, do service every 15,000 miles with mineral oil and never have anything to worry about; except perhaps to replace it one day.
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    I took great care :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: of my crd . it did ok with nrepairs fot 123,000 miles . Then the motir blue up.
    Nwew motor $5.300. + shipping & then instolation. GET RID OF THAT LIMON ASAP>
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    mine was ok for 123,000 then the motor blue up. Get rid of it quick! :sick:
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    When you say you took "great Care" of it, what changes did you make to the "Stock" CRD?
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    THX for all you help uncle bob....traded that 2005 4x4 CRD limited off for the paltry sum of $4500...not been that happy cutting losses in years...knew the day i looked over at the window and saw that mopar symbol that it was a major mistake...good riddance and ya'll have fun on this forum...there is a great need for sure...Chrysler was bankrupt for a reason...even the prettiest and best designed trash is still trash...oh wait...one more!!!...when you by a Jeep, get the off-road package; it should include a rental while your Jeep is on the shop rack off the road:)
  • nebraskannebraskan Member Posts: 1
    Where then can one take his Liberty for turbo repair in say the Denver area?
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Member Posts: 121
    edited November 2012
    Anybody replace the front seats in the 2004 to 2006 Liberty for more comfortable ones? On long road trips the fatigue really sets in. Need more support under my long legs.
    Know of any alternative or aftermarket seats?
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I placed 1/2" flare nuts under the front seat mounts. That helped. You may need spacers made from pipe to get the height you need. Can't put your arm out the window very well, though.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    "I use A/C, 4WD every now and then, give the engine time to warm-up in the winter, drive 130 Km/h all day on the motorway when needed, do service every 15,000 miles with mineral oil and never have anything to worry about; except perhaps to replace it one day."

    Mineral oil? Have I been wasting money using the 0 to 40 multigrade Mobil 1 oil? As soon as I pour it in and turn her over, the honey color is gone. I've wondered about the necessity of using this expensive oil. With a good battery, this oil lets her turn over good on cold Winter days. Shouldn't really good oil be used because it has a turbo? I change much less than 15,000 miles.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I use nothing but Delvac 1300. Change every 2000 as I do in my 12 year old 7.3. Both are strong as ever. The F37 torque crap, from Chrysler did lower my mileage 10 mpg, though.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited December 2012
    I have no authority to tell you what you should do but I used 15W40 (Shell mineral), 10W40 (no-name semi-synthetic), 5W40 (Yacco synthetic), Mann air filter (off-road only in the US), K&N air filter since 6 years, Mann oil filter...
    My service intervals are planned every 25,000 Km when its sunny and dry in my back yard ;)

    All transmission fluids are there since day one, I only replaced power steering fluid because it was as black as ink. The cooling fluid has not been changed and still doesn't need topping after 9 winters.
    Some folks claim they change their fluids very often, I don't but I keep an eye on all levels and find it boring in the end :sick:
    Next year I plan to replace all fluids and water pump, for its 10th anniversary...
    I add less than a quart of oil between services and still have the original glow plugs. If oil quality was critical, I should be on my 3rd engine after 10 years.
  • fustfust Member Posts: 29
    My 2005 jeep diesel reads cold and never really warms up so I suspect a faulty thermostat, but my real question would a faulty thermostat which keeps the engine cold most of the time have a hugh impact on mileage.Mileage has dropped from about 28mpg to 19mpg in the last couple of months and wondering if because the engine runs cold would this be a contributing factor, any comments appreciated.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    Yes, it will impact your MPG.
    It's most efficient when the needle is straight up.
    The Thermostat is expensive, $100+, it is built into it's own housing and replaced as a Unit.
    There was a guy on the "LostJeeps" forum who is a backyard machinist and would re-fabricate yours if you send it to him (He had a few spares for a fast exchange). He made them so that in the future it could be replaced with a standard $10 thermostat. He was charging around $100 as well.

    Hope this helps: Bob
  • biodieselmanbiodieselman Member Posts: 41
    I want to warn everyone. Do not allow any oil leaks to go for even a short period. With changes coming at every 6000 miles and me retired I don't have to do it as often as I used to. Evidently shortly after my last oil change the EGR which had about 100,000 miles on it started malfunctioning. That caused some oil to get pushed out somewhere such that the wind sprayed it all over under the hood. The dealer suggested it was the oil separator which I had replaced about 8,000 miles earlier.

    Here is the result. The oil which managed to not drip significantly on the gravel so I could see it caused numerous hoses to be compromised. They have a coating on the inside to protect them from the oil they carry but NOT the outside. If I had needed to crawl underneath I would have seen there was oil leakage but it coated the side of the engine and was not noticeable on my gravel driveway.

    The hose that carries pressurized air from the turbo split and I heard air swooshing every time I gave it a bit of throttle. Several of the hoses that are part of emissions were cracked and compromised. The hoses that carry trans fluid were so soft it is a wonder they didn't burst and dump all my trans fluid on the ground.

    Mind you, I checked under the hood at about halfway through the 6000 mile mark for the oil change and I did not see that oil leakage. Must have been right after that that things went down hill. It was probably two months that leak was eating away at my hoses and rotting them.

    So, at 134,000 miles my Jeep went in to find out what the dickens was the start of the trouble. A new EGR valve, all new hoses to the turbo, new oil separator, new trans fluid lines fluids, and labor cost me $1,400 at the dealer. The EGR alone was $267! They did me right for labor and parts according to what some others are reporting for costs.

    Evidently when this starts it starts too small for you to see any drips. But its eating away at all your hoses. So for pete's sake look under there more often if your vehicle has miles on it. In my case it was how long the hoses soaked in the oil. It doesn't take a lot because when I checked the oil it was down only half way between max and min.
  • gh1961gh1961 Member Posts: 30
    You are a glutton for punishment. The first step to recovery is admission that you bought a Chrysler product.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited January 2013
    This is surely not the start of a Happy New Year for you :sick:

    I'm just curious:
    What type of lubricant are you using? I've never seen engine hoses destroyed by an engine oil leak ...
    At times, hot vapors of synthetic lubricants (Rotella) diffused through my turbo hose reaching the inter-cooler; this made it oily and dusty but the chilled intake air coming out of the inter-cooler never did this to the hose. I think this must be specific to certain additives, perhaps those who penetrate polymers :confuse:
  • paula35paula35 Member Posts: 4
    My daughter has a 2006 Jeep Liberty that she got at about 48K miles ... a couple of weeks later, her check engine light came on, we took it back to the dealership, they changed a sensor and sent her om her way. About a year later, same thing another sensor, 500.00 later sent her on her way. Are sensors a problem with these jeeps? Now the check engine light came on again, took it in, engine failure due to sludge. Spent 788.00 on new fuel filter, flush diesel fuel injection system, etc. So basically the turbo charger inlet pressure sensor, boost pressure sensor is plugged from sludge ... light still on and they said it will not go off because of the sludge issue. They pretty much wrote the car off as scap (after the 788.00 of course) and sent her on her way. Is this car a lost cause? Can the sludge be removed and cleaned? I need some help here, we dont have a clue what to do. This is NOT because she did not change her oil. Thanks.
  • coolridercoolrider Member Posts: 84
    Yes, what type of oil did this? Who changed it? What frequency?
  • paula35paula35 Member Posts: 4
    It was JIffy Lube, Rotella I believe ... Im going up there today to get a history print out ... Ill let you know, thanks!
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I used Rotella for a short time in my 7.3 turbo. It heats up going through the turbo wich in turn causes air bubbles in the high pressure oil to the injectors. I use only Mobil Delvac now in both my 7.3 and 2.8 CRD. Never a priblem. The 7.3 has 260,000 and the Liberty 64,000.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    I bought my 05 CRD new and I relied on this site alot. The 1st time I changed the oil (Mobile 1 0-40 synthetic) it came out like black sludge. Mobile 1 was the only oil recommend by Jeep. Talking to an oil supplier, I found out that Mobile 1 was looked down on by those in the know. Besides its abbllity to leak easier, it also vaporized more easily. Vaporization would cause the remaining oil to thicken. The vapors would easily get past the crank case ventilation and get sucked into the intake just above the air filter. The 1st time I looked at my air filter, it was cover with oil on the side towards the turbo. This is how the turbo, its hoses, and the inter-cooler get gummed up with oil residue. The MPS or manifold pressure sensor is in the manifold and gets clogged by this plus by the diesel exhaust particulates. We remove the sources of these or you can remove the MPS (easy) and clean it with carb cleaner and an old soft tooth brush. You can find old posts here to learn about all the mods to eliminate the contaminents in the intake. Dealers know little or nothing about Liberty CRDs and cause almost more problems than they solve. Thats why most of us do our own work. After my 1st oil change I've used Shell Rotella 5-40 syn, however, lately I've heard good things about Mobile Delvac from other diesel heads. I hope this helps. CRD has 99k miles now & runs better than ever.

    7
  • paula35paula35 Member Posts: 4
    Rotella 15W40 is what Jiffy Lube put in the jeep and what the dealership is claiming caused the sludge problem ... Dont really know who to believe. Does anyone know if the sludge can be cleaned instead of just junking the car? According to the dealership, the car wont run much longer because of engine failure caused by sludge ... thus, a pile of junk my daughter still owes 2K on ...
  • paula35paula35 Member Posts: 4
    Rotella 15W40 is what Jiffy Lube put in the jeep and what the dealership is claiming caused the sludge problem ... Dont really know who to believe. Does anyone know if the sludge can be cleaned instead of just junking the car? According to the dealership, the car wont run much longer because of engine failure caused by sludge ... thus, a pile of junk my daughter still owes 2K on ...
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I confirm I had a few similar issues with Rotella 15W40.

    The best trouble free oil viscosity range for me is 5W30 or 4W40. This is labeled as semi synthetic oil in the EU and corresponds to the Mercedes-Benz recommendation for catalyzed diesel vehicles without particle filters MB229."something" :)

    Cleaning your injection system is trivial for a 'jack of the trade'. I would advise you to visit a diesel specialist instead of your dealer. My CRD is 10 years old and runs like new. My Corolla 2.0D is 15 years old and I would not change it for a new car: its only electronic 'gitzmo' is an AM/FM radio :shades:
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    I use 0/40moble in my jeep and change the oil every 8000 k
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited January 2013
    You could try to get Shell involved I suppose. They offer a warranty for Rotella.
  • elder2elder2 Member Posts: 17
    Hi again. It is important to know whether to sludge the dealer is talking about was in the crankcase, the intake, or in the fuel system. I also have not seen Rotella 15-40 in synthetic. I may be wrong. I run the 15-40 Rotella in my Chevy Kodiak C5500 which doesn't call for synthetic and it works fine. I, like Carabo1, think you need a good diesel mechanic which you won't find at a Jeep dealer in the USA. Dealers hate to see CRDs come in for service, but they are happy to take your money for little service given. JMO. Remember that sludge in the intake is a Jeep design flaw and hardly the oil you use. The work arounds for the flaws are all posted on this forum if you go back and start reading. I wish you the best.
  • bassetslavebassetslave Member Posts: 22
    Hi
    Yes it is important to know who is working on your engine,
    I have replaced the motor in mine.
    It was a ex lease!
    Not taken care of.(10.000) US
    So Far everything is going good.( Bang on wood)
    I Still worry about it.
    I listen to motor,and question the sounds.
    I also have a diesel truck. I know the sound
    It may be silly, but it is the way you learn.
    Anne
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    edited January 2013
    Hi bassetslave,
    On this specific engine I recommend to remove the serpentine belt, turn the ventilation button to the "0" mark (left side) then turn the engine ON to 'listen & learn' the purr of the engine.
    Too many squeaks, vibrations and rattles are generated by the pulleys, tensioner bearing, alternator sometimes going bad (bearings or voltage regulator), cabin heater and A/C clutches :sick:
    The bare engine breathes like a feline, without foetid breath :P
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    So.. after many many pages ( a few hundred posts) I see that winter2 never did end up posting his letter to Sergio, pics or end results of what finally happened with is troublesome Liberty in FL.

    I would have loved to see the (probably corporate) reply.

    I think it is appalling that Chrysler is allowed to import and use an engine that... after they are done making the engine emission friendly, basically screws the engine up to the point it doesn't have a chance in hell of any normal expectation of longevity, especially when you factor in the premium you pay for a diesel upgrade in the first place. To add insult to injury, they sell you this piece of crap, supposedly warranty it, yet universally across the board don't supply to us mechanics that know a single thing about it! Only in America do we spend huge bucks for junk, then are forced to research and solve at out own expense, the fixes. Or bandaids..depending on your perspective or mechanical abilities.

    I feel for all on this thread, but moreso for the ones who lack the ability/time/garage/tools etc to create fixes for what was a poor and inferior design in the first place. But I also appreciated reading of the regular's (uncle bob, caribou1,elder1 etc) experiences and fixes and helpful hints.

    I would have liked to learn more about the Cummins BT ? was it? swap in order to transform the Liberty in a good ride for many miles instead of a troublesome part-life. I assume that the swap must include a different transmission..maybe there are manual and auto options out there. I'm going to Google it right now I think..

    Does anyone know if the VM engine had a cast iron or aluminum block? If the Cummins is cast iron and probably is without a doubt, and if the VM was aluminum, then the weight difference might make the Liberty a real handful in the handling department...especially in the wet and winter..
    I think would be a more drastic swap than putting a VW TDI in a Samurai. The VW swap in a long wheel base Samurai was the way to go (cuz the LWB made the heavier front end less inclined to swap ends in the wet). Air suspension was needed for the total package success, which is not surprising.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    "I remember the dealer telling me that the VM engine and transmission were not designed for driving long distances at 1,800 rpm with a locked converter. "

    What could possibly be their explanation for this? :confuse:

    Also, I think one reason you seem to have had less overall trouble with yours, is that in the UK you guys simply don't have the nasty temp swings that we have in America..especially the way below zero feh ones and short trips to the corner store or work. Diesels do not do well in those circs..even well designed/emissioned ones, which of course we now know the VM in the Liberty was not.
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    The engine itself is great, made in northern Italy. It's Chrysler idiot engineers that don't have a clue, they screwed it up. A company in Calif.. Green something a a control that does the Liberty justice.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    It's green diesel engineering, I believe it was $450 to re-program the computer. They have 2 (or 3) programs for it. One, the ECO tune is for Liberties that have the stock Torque Converters. Then later IF you want to create a real Beast, they have the HOT Tune (a $50 upgrade), for those who have rebuilt their transmission and gone with a Heavy Duty Torque converter.
    It seems that most stock transmissions in Diesels just cannot handle the power of engine upgrades. I am currently rebuilding the transmission in my 92 Dodge Ram 250 with a Cummins 5.9L, they seem to last about 150k to 180k from normal use before the transmissions start slipping, and if (as most have done) you have made engine up-grades, the stock transmission cannot handle the power. I bought my 92 Dodge new and intend to keep it for life, so I am putting close to $4k into the transmission to make it Bullet proof and able to pull 40 foot trailers with no porblems.
    Within a year I will most likely do the same to my Liberty CRD, since I plan to keep it for many years and will useit to tow my boat and quad trailer.
    On the CRD, I feel the most important up-grade is a Provent system ($200, or many have made their own for under $20). this removes most of the oily sludge that the smog control system forces back into your Turbo and causes expensive repairs.
    The CRD is not a car for a person who just wants a turn key vehicle out the gate. But IF you are willing to do some research and make the recommended changes to bring it back to how it was designed to be in the first place it is a mini beast, and can easily go 300,000 miles. It is a German designed Itallian diesel that was butchered to cut production costs and meet USA smog requirements. There is nothing in it's weight class that can match it's towing abilities. In Europe it is rated at 7,000#'s towing capacity.
    It gets better MPG than any similiar vehicle. It turns so well it can almost run into it's own rear end! It is rare and will hold it's value better than gasoline Liberties. Those that are not loved will be disappearing and those that remain will increase in value due to supply and demand.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Winter2 is occasionally posting over in the Outback discussions. Maybe he'll see this thread.

    Or maybe part of a settlement with Chrysler was not to say anything. :shades:
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Me too. Curious about winter2 and wonder if farout is still checking in. My guess based on silence, even though he was fighting mad and burned by dealership(s), that he may finally have taken the hit. Caribou keeps chiming in with how great his 2.5 Euro spec diesel is but his dealership service payments, if memory serves me well, were substantial. True cost of ownership is horrific. Desmog the engine out of federal law, buy a suncoast torque converter, buy the Green tuner, buy good ball joints, hope the motor does go south for the heck of it like Darby and Winter. The list is endless. Penske GM Daimler/Chrysler who else owned or owns VM and who cares. For some the diesel is dead but some writers keep insisting the diesel hybrid is the next solution for the auto world. Some say the last gasp like the horse and buggy in 1890.

    One of my mags mentioned that the 3.0 VM Panther engine better be a success for the jeep grand cherokee or kiss Fiat Jeep diesels good bye.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    edited January 2013
    Thanks. Knew about the Mercury but the Subaru is news to me. Guess we know now. Guessing he got the H6 and turbo. Need to go find winter2.

    Edit:
    Mercury is gone and he had a Liberty. Now he has a Subaru Outback Premium 2.5. Good Luck winter2.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Good point, never thought of that. Except that if they did the right thing in the end I would think they would want him to tell the rest of the saga in some futile attempt for them to redeem themselves. Poor guy, no matter what they ended up doing, even if he got a new engine (one that they emissioned to last) he still has a pile of patience. Tons more than I could have mustered.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi gimmestdtranny,

    The (central) stator coupled to the 45RFE was incriminated on the higher Torque / HP engines.
    My engine is a de-rated 2.8L producing only 150HP :cry: , but flawlessly during the past 10 years.

    I live in the Alps (in France) where temperatures vary between -20°C and +35°C at 450mt altitude. When we ski we have -25°C at night; I only check my antifreeze (-37°C) and sufficient tire pressure.

    My shortest drive with the Jeep is 20 miles, I prefer to use my vintage Corolla 2.0D for short trips and city driving.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi tired old dave,
    My engine came from the very first batch to equip the Jeep 2.8L CRD; it had been successfully tested on the Alfa Romeo Giulia.

    My dealership had a wonderful head technician in 2003, but promotion moved him to Mercedes Benz vehicles. They've not seen me since the ball joint recall that wasn't needed for my truck because it already had the PTFE lining.

    Radio silence since then ...
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    caribou1,

    Thanks for the 2.8 correction. I would've lost any bet but I seem to remember the 2.5 was the forerunner for the 2.8 and your model. Americans got an inferior torque converter (weaker springs) for years before they got the Euro spec. I believe winter2 was in communication with VM about that and oil specified by Daimler/Chrysler. Obviously with a new Euro spec KJ (Good initial quality control) and your ambient temperatures, you have been served well.
    I still think you should've made Post #10,000.
    Good day and no need for me to check in here anymore.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    I don't have a heated garage. Everything on this jeep is difficult to do. It was not built to be worked on. I've had it for almost 8 years now. What do you folks recommend as a rugged higher mileage vehicle? My brother has a front wheel drive Ford Escape and loves it. the traction is better than this stupid rear wheel drive Jeep. As soon as times get better for me, the Jeep is going to be history. The dealer tells me that there are only two of these in town. If I have them do any work, they have almost as steep a learning curve as me. :cry:
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Member Posts: 103
    try it in 4 wheel drive, if you still have trouble your tires are wrong for the snow.
    It's not any harder to work on than any of todays vehicles with smog crap engulfing the motor.
    If you have had it for 8 years, your garage cannot be cold 12 months out of each year?
    What are your other specific complaints, we may be able to point you in the right direction.

    Bob
  • warren9warren9 Member Posts: 39
    I've had mine for 7 years. Other than idiot engineers at Chrysler detunig it, it is great. Oil changed every 2K miles. ATF every 15k. Fine car. As soon as Ford comes up with a small diesel vehicle I'll probably trade. My service truck, with a 7.3 has 259K on it and is still like factory.
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