Jeep Liberty Diesel

new2diesel · December 2005

I have the same noise under higher RPM's especially when climbing a mountain. I also have a high pitch noise at idle during cool down. I have 5000 on my CRD and have never taken it to the dealer. I believe the dealers only send it back to you worse than it was so I doubt I will take it in until it breaks. Any ideas what is going on with these two different noises?

moparbad · December 2005

I really believe the old motto "IF IT Ain't BROKE Don't FIX IT !"

What is your opinion of "An Ounce of Preventions Is Worth A Pound Of Cure"? Do you believe in it?

farout · December 2005

The two mottos go hand in hand. Only a total jerk would neglect what he depends on for every day use. I hope you did not take what I said to mean I neglect safety and or regular upkeep. Most of my friend ask me that when I am ready to get a new truck to please give them a chance to buy it. I maintain that servicing a truck or car is the most important thing you can do to keep your investment lasting. Like the Every ready bunny "keeps going and going. Merry Christmas.

Farout

vtdog · December 2005

To read many of the post in here and other Jeep forums one would get the impression that the CRD is not a rugged vehicle and requires much maintenance, special oils, additives, and engine pre-heats before cold weather starting. It has been my experience (with 15k miles so far) that this is just not the case. The CRD has, for me at least, been very reliable. It has needed only 1 repair (EGR, of course) beyond normal maintenance. I also use whatever oil the dealer puts in (0W-40?) as I have free oil changes for life as part of the sales agreement.

If I felt that the CRD was more like my old MGB (which I loved, but also hated) and required some repair every 400 miles and very gentle care than the XTERRA which I traded for the Jeep (which needed only oil changes over 70k miles) I would never have purchased the CRD. I turn the key, wait for the glow plugs to cycle and start the car. I do not use any additives, or cetane boosters, nor have I had to pre-heat the car before starting. It seems crazy to me that people believe that you need to plug in a 1000 watt heater to get your car going. Last week I started the Jeep in -8 and -12F temps on the first try, with no problems. I got heat within 5 mins and within 10 the Jeep was warm enough for overdrive to work. My old 78 Diesel Rabbit started in the big time cold, why shouldnt the CRD? I do know that below the gel point I need to use an additive, but that is a chemistry issue, not mechanics.

I dont rock climb with the car, but do take it on rough trails and dirt roads for both work and play. The CRD is more than adequate in those circumstances. I have had only a very few instances where I got in a temporary jam on the trail. The car has torque to spare and seems to be able to get out of problems without a struggle. My only big complaint was about those lousy ST tires, which I stopped whining about and just replaced with Michelins. The handling has much improved and I no longer need 4wd in the rain. It was expensive, but worth the money.

So, is the CRD a Tiger, or a Pussycat?

mel22 · December 2005

Thank you. I was thinking I shouldn't buy the car. I too have had excellent use of my vw diesels.

alljeep · December 2005

vtdog - THANK YOU FOR BEING HONEST BY EXPRESSING WHAT SHOULD BE THE OBVIOUS!!!

All we normally get to hear about is the one half of one percent of people that have problems all the time, and we probably only hear half of those real stories.

I know of a guy with a CRD that has over 25K original miles with a build date in January of 2005 and is still on his original EGR!

I only have 3.5k miles on mine right now, but it's gone much farther without problems than my HONDA did that I traded in for this. My Honda Element had to have the entire front end replaced because of a cracked steering housing that leaked PS fluid at only 500 miles on the ODO. Build quality of the foreign cars everyone praises so much is WAY below our current CRD Jeeps.

Just drive and enjoy. IF it breaks - Fix It - otherwise, no constant worrying expecting the worst will happen when the odds of it are way to low to matter.

new2diesel · December 2005

Thats why I bought mine. I expect to drive it until it breaks which I am counting on being a long time from now. Sure change the oil and add cetane if you want a quieter motor, but don't worry about it. I am constantly amazed at how some people baby these vehicles. Checking everything over weekly, over changinging the oil, warming them up for 20 minutes, the list goes on. I would sell the darn thing before I did all that. NO VEHICLE is worth that kind of effort in my opinion.

Yes my brakes squeak when it is cold - yes I have a few litle noises here and there - but so what. Overall it has been a good vehicle - just turn the key. 5000 miles and 0 maintenence. It has barely used any oil in 5000 miles. I am expecting the story to be the same at 100,000 miles. It seems to me that the harder you drive these things the less trouble you have........

farout · December 2005

new2diesel: Maybe they need to have a "Liberty CRD Problems" forum. There is no way I am willing to spend my retirement under the hood of a Jeep! I did put the 100,000 Max care $0 ded. on the Liberty. That way if something does go wrong at least for the first 100,000 miles it's covered. As I see the problems when and if, they belong to DC. I did try one bottle of PS cetane booster for $5.37 which did nothing noticeable.
I hope they soon figuar out why my cruse control kicks out at the bottom of a dip... thats my only kick and that's not about the CRD at all. Merry Christmas.

Farout

jkinzel · December 2005

Thanks vtdog, I have always thought coming to these forums is like reading a news paper, informative, but lots of bad news. Makes you think there is a rape and murder on every street corner.
I have worked around diesels all my life on tug boats and comparing 500hp to 2000hp cats and EMDs to Jeep and VW diesels is like apples to ice cream, but one basic this is true. Keep your fluids at full, do regular oil changes and make them work. Never be afraid to put you foot in it if you need too.
Im waiting until mid 2006 to buy a new car. Its going to be a diesel and I'm just hoping others will bring new offerings when ULSD is more widely available.

bhcs111 · December 2005

I could not have said it better. I also have a CRD made in Jan 2005 with it's one and only EGR valve. And it has 16,000 miles on it. I drive it, maintain it, and love the devil out of it. Didn't like the tires, like you to I bit the bullet and got new ones. Never plugged it in yet and I live in Iowa, so I have had the chance. Wait for the glow plugs to cycle and off we go. she may bark and rattle for a minute, but it is just telling you that it is a diesel. So I say they are tigers just listen to them growl.

synlubes · December 2005

2005 march build eighty five hundred miles no problem love it has not used any oil or had egr valve problem

dacur · December 2005

I will submit a new post once I get this MPG problem taken care of.
As for the Lexus owners out there getting 19mpg with their hybrids. They should have bought a Liberty V-6 and saved $25K. I'd like to say they should have bought a Diesel but until I get mine fixed I'll hold off on that suggestion.

rnabors · December 2005

I have a March build with 7000 miles on it. I service it just like the manual says and don't add anything to the fuel---I just drive it! Other than the growling brakes first thing in the morning I have had no problems (still have original EGR).
I did change out the lame original tires for 235/75/16 Bridgestone Alenza's.
I love the CRD!!!!!!!!

jimt1 · December 2005

Have an 05 CRD Limited with 3500 miles. No drivabilty problems and good fuel economy (22-26) driving mixed in north Georgia mtns. Found small oil leak and took to dealer this day. They tell me it is rear main seal. If so, this freaks me out as to the amount of work required to repair and if the vehicle will ever be right afterwards. They have to order parts, tools, and READ UP on the repair. I have been very satisfied with vehicle, but I think this is like a death sentence for the vehicle. Any thoughts on outcome would be appreciated. JimT

alljeep · December 2005

Get a second opinion from a larger, high volume dealership. There are several sources of indicental oil drips from this CRD that they could mis-diagnose. Turbo oil return line, oil filter seal, turbo intake, turbo output, intercooler lines - mostly due to oil-blow by in the EGR system with exception to the first two possibilities I noted. All are VERY minor repairs, if any.

Do you have skid plates installed? Oil drips or spillage from a recent oil change can collect inside the hollow transmission skid plate and leak for days near the front - this too would look like an engine oil leak.

turblediesel · December 2005

Thanks for the info on clunking noises while backing up. Someone ran it down to the trac-loc differential fluids. Mine has started binding in parking lots as if I were in part-time 4wd. Mine has been getting 18 mpg with winter driving around 10 degrees with lots of ice and speeds around 50 to 60. Drove about 150 miles yesterday in 5 inches of fresh snow. It likes 45 mph and never gets into its' highest gear. Takes 4 or 5 miles of driving over 50 mph to warm up. get behind a slow poke or get stuck in stop and go stuff in the cold and it will never warm up. Mine has the tow package so maybe there's too much extra cooling capacity. I got some fiberglass windowscreen to put under the grill which just snaps off like a model car. Haven't put it on yet. Hopefully it will speed warmups and keep the bugs off the radiator and out of the air box. Might not be a good idea for towing or hot places. I wonder too if it will ice over and block too much air. I'll find out. It's fun to drive. I do most slowing with the tranny... nothing wild... it works better than the ABS. Once all four tires opt out of the loop due to ice it seems like there's less braking going on than when you get all four tires sliding. At least with all four tires locked you get those four little patches of friction working for you. I find that useful for slowing and controlling. If I remember right the abs fuse also controls something essential like the injectors so it can't just be unplugged. Does anyone know of a way to bypass the abs? Another thing that helps slowing at slick intersections is to put the tranny in neutral. I'd forgotten how automatics can push. I do like how the thing runs except for the bind/clunk the trac-loc makes. The tires could be better but they're not going to be replaced until next winter. I do get into arguments with the courtesy/rude lights and locks and I could live without the panic button. Really hate the headlights. Useless on a downhill. Lights the ditches better than down the road. The moose like that... it gives them a better run at the road. A simple stupid set of sealed beam halogens would be a big improvement. Anyone tried out any of the turbo timers? I'll be waiting here for the next two minutes before my life continues again.

Bye

farout · December 2005

In 06 all Liberty's have ABS. Perhaps at one time a decade or better ago one might have some reason to doubt the effectiveness due to the loud noise they made. But not today the ABS will stop better under 98% of most circumstances. The two 2% being, 1%under water 10 feet deep, and 1% being in the air while going over cliff. Seriously, you have better control with abs than not.
I too have the towing package and it does take a long period of time to idle if you want to warm up the inside. I have cut two 9" x 18" pieces of cardboard and put them in between the electric fan and the front grill before starting and it is blowing warm (not hot) in 5 minuets, I then remove the cardboard and on my I go. It works pretty well, or until I hear of a better way anyhow. The binding of the trac loc I can't say as mine has not done that. Have a Merry Christmas.

Farout

clarkkent · December 2005

As a Jeep man I hate to say it, but I'd rather drive a Lexus getting 2 mpg than be seen in a Liberty getting 55 mpg! It's in the eye of the beholder. When the new Patriot comes out, I think the Liberty's days will be numbered.

Remember, it's a Girley Jeep!

And I'm just as sorry about that as everyone else.

We have 3 Jeeps, a GC, regular cherokee and a Wrangler. Why they ever came out with the Liberty is a mystery to me.

I drove one. No dash, No power, No looks. 3 strikes and your out. Lucky it's a great off road vehicle.

Don't beat me up. I just can't see the Liberty. But then, I think the Commander is great and some Jeep people thinks it sucks, so go figure.

The Liberty proves two things:

1. Beauity is truly in the eye of the beholder.

2. Beauity is not just skin deep! ie: the Liberty IS
beautiful (under it's skin) ie: Off road greatness!

lightnin3 · December 2005

When traveling in this weather,
If you stick with a premium quality fuel,I don't think you'll have problems with fuel line freeze up.
Although we are going to be encountering subzero temps,and to prevent a chance of that happening ,an additive is a cheap investment for worry free traveling.

Having a bottle handy for each fill up,would ensure better fuel mileage as well.just try driving for a couple of weeks with normal diesel ,and watch your mileage , then go to a premium brand using an additive.Water in fuel does drop the mileage on a tank of fuel.
Power service,Kleen Flo,or even methyl hydrate if available will be fine.
I just came back from Upper penninsula Michigan skiing trip to Indianhead Mountain resort,had a great time there .Lots of snow ..5 ft and lots of lake affect snow as well .
Roads by the most part were clear,although there was some drifting.average temps were 19-26 deg F.But you dress for it.
Plugged her in at the lodge.Very nice people.
It was a 582 mile trip from Windsor Canada.So I logged over a 1000 miles on her.
Averaging 26mpg at 65mph.very happy with the performance.
I stuck with Citgo No.1 fuel,and B.P. Supreme.No problems to speak of.If I would have drove her to 1/8 th tank, I think I would have gotten 500 miles/tank, out of her.

She performed excellently,in the drifting snow,and wet snow.Very comfortable to drive in.The heated seats made all the difference as well.
I made sure I purchased a ski rack that can handle 6 skiis.
It hooked up to the bars perfectly on top.
I hope you all have a safe, Enjoyable Christmas,and worry free driving in your libby.
Peace ...
Lightnin3...

alljeep · December 2005

"I drove one. No dash, No power, No looks. 3 strikes and your out. Lucky it's a great off road vehicle."

Funny, I though the same thing when I drove the Wrangler with it's 10+ year old design.

B.T.W. - Nice "L" on your forehead.

clarkkent · December 2005

Touche' and Merry Christmas. You got it right. Wrangler, No dash, (does have more power than the Liberty) I have the 4L and it does have a lot of power, (and the Wrangler is a lot lighter than the Liberty)

Looks, I like them, but as I said, Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

10 year old design. No, 8 years old, and a new one is coming next year.

And that "L" you see in the middle of my forehead, is not an "L", it's a "J" for Jeep!

Again, Merry Christmas. And you can bet your --- that Santa drive a Jeep! That's why he always gets through to all those little kids.

Can't you see all those kids crying Christmas morning, looking for the gifts that didn't show up, if Santa was driving an Explorer! :lemon:

farout · December 2005

Recently someone said that the Liberty owners manual stated that Bio fuel was ok. In the Liberty Warranty Information book, First Edition, on page 14 3.3 under Maintenance Costs Not Covered. It reads " Your warranties don't cover the costs of repairing damaged caused by poor or improper maintenance. Nor do they cover damage caused by the use of fuels, oils, lubricants, cleaners or fluids other than those recommended in your Owners Manual."
NO WHERE IN THE OWNERS MANUAL DOES IT MENTION BIO DIESEL! NO WHERE DOES IT SAY CETANE BOOSTER IS ACCEPTABLE. Read this very carefully, because if it does not recommend it in the Owners Manual that CD can say it is not covered. The tec I talked with in Toledo Ohio said Bio fuel is not recommended and the use of Bio fuel above B-5 is not to be used. The same is true for Cetane boosters. So this is a loop hole for CD.
As a matter of speculation could Bio fuel above be causing EGR problems? My CRD was made in mid June 05 and no engine problems, and I checked every clamp and nut and bolt I could and everything was as it should be.
My only concern is with the skid plates, the oil filter sure looks exposed to get caught on stuff pretty easy. Has anyone had this happen? ONLY TWO MORE DAYS UNTIL CHRISTMAS!!

Farout

alljeep · December 2005

"10 year old design. No, 8 years old, and a new one is coming next year."

The current Wrangler (TJ) came out in 1996 as a model year 1997, so I think you might want to re-check your math... It will work out to a bit over 10 years on the road for the current TJ Wrangler design before the redesigned Wrangler hits the market next year. :surprise:

As for my CRD Liberty... Freshly redesigned inside and out for 2005 :P

farout · December 2005

Well some people , like yourself are status conscience. I am sure your lexus cost a lot more than my CRD Liberty, and for that I would expect a real pretty car. If you think a Liberty is "a girley Jeep", Them I am proud to be a girley Jeep owner!
Perhaps beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But you definitely need glasses, or clean the smudge off them.
It is more than clear you have not driven a CRD, because power is one thing the CRD does have!
It's Christmas, Clarkkent Grinch, be nice!

Farout

caribou1 · December 2005

Farout,
People who have a CRD have to be good all year round, not only at Christmas!
When it runs well like mine does, we are good to others who don't know what they're missing;
When you experience EGR or CPU problems you have to be good to DC because you want the thing to work!
All around it's a beautiful toy, my toy, but my wife still refuses to play with it :confuse:
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and less worries about getting good fuel during the winter.

gagrice · December 2005

And a merry Christmas to you. Keep that EU in line over there. Appreciate all your posts.

siberia · December 2005

Like Robert Duval in Apocalypse Now, I like the sight if diesel, the sound of diesel and the smell of diesel in the morning. The more I drive this Jeep the more I like it. I dive very easy all of the time. I get 19 MPG in the village and 27 to 33 MPG on the highway (65MPH) with an overall documented 24.3 MPG since new (15k miles).

jimt1 · December 2005

I have considered 2nd opinion. Greatest problem is alternative dealer of any size is 100 miles. You may have been correct though as to a mis-diagnosed location. I had them change oil and filter even though mileage only 3500 and no leak so far! Hopefully oil filter was culprit and no repair will be necessary. Thanks again and Merry Cristmas and Happy Newyear to all! JimT

billymay · December 2005

I have the 2005 3.7L Liberty - no diesels here in California. 11,000 miles and I love it - every other SUV in this class looks the same. Liberty has those Porsche-like headlights (parks next to my 911 and they look like cousins) has been flawless so far. I hope Jeep doesn't go back to the boring box design - the Commander is hideous (and was slammed in the LA Times review, btw).

The mpg on my Jeep does suck, so I started browsing this thread, but other than that it has exceeded my expectations for not so much money.

Yeah the Lexus is nicer, but for another $20K+... I mean come on.

farout · December 2005

Thanks for your input. Its not to often I have the privilege to communicate with someone on the other side of the pond. So far good fuel for me has not been an issue. Now watch, as soon as I say something good about BP fuel it will turn bad. I pat 2.359 for #2 diesel. By our standard this is a little high, probably you would like a truck load at this price. Merry Christmas caribou1.

Farout

tired_old_dave · December 2005

"Remember, it's a Girley Jeep"

That is well known. But the diesel factor has some saving grace. I saw a bumper sticker on the back window of a pick'em up truck last week

"Silly Boys, Trucks are for Girls"

Merry Christmas, Joyeaux Noel, Happy Holidays

No more wars - Peace on Earth

bullhead · December 2005

You say-

"Like Robert Duval in Apocalypse Now"...

Reference to the EGR should be more like Ned Beatty in "Deliverance".

| sorry about that |

mtbrice · December 2005

New to the whole diesel thing and was wondering what every one is doing for oil changes (I'm at the 4800k mark now, so I'll be going for first service shortly).

Is synthetic the way to go, and if so, what is the interval's between oil changes?? I've heard 10k, 15k and even 20000k??

Also, what do people recommend for fuel additive and again, how often??

Any help would be appreciated...I only got the gasoline service manual with my new '06 CRD.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!

whitgallman · December 2005

I've got some pictures of the Chrysler Gas Turbine Car from 1965 I want to send you.

farout · December 2005

mtbrice: Merry Christmas to our neighbor in Canada! I believe your speedometer is not on miles or you would have said 4800 miles. So you have less than 3,000 miles if my American math is any good. By my book Owners Manual says 6,250 miles for the schedule B and 12,500 miles for schedule A. So that would be about 10,000k for schedule B. I know by now your oil looks blacker than black, and stains just like permanent black marker ink. It most likely looked that by 500k. How am I doing so far?
The owners manual is very specific, Mobil 1, 0-40 or 5-40. I put a note about 4 days ago in this forum, about how DC does not want any additive but an anti gel used. DC even states Cetane booster is not recommended. I think this is to tighten up on claims on the 2005 7 years or 70,000 miles. The 2006 has 3 years 36,000 miles.
There as many ideas as to when to change oil, and what or what not to add to the oil, as there are users in this forum. I personally am changing my oil at 8,000 miles, which will be this Wednesday. I think that translates to 13,333K, I hope that's close anyway. My reason is I don't fit the schedule A or B so I sorta split the difference. The Diesel information is in the back of the gasoline schedules. Or perhaps your may be in French? In that case I haven't a clue. I get pretty consistently about 21 to 22 mpg. I changed tries the first 300miles and I have Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor 245 70 16 tires. I did have the dealer recalebrate for the speedometer. These tires are better suited for our driving conditions. I also had the dealer put the made for Liberty mud flaps on. Sure keeps the sides cleaner. Beyond that I just drive it. Hope this helps,and Merry Christmas and Happy New year.

Farout
I have

johnloehr · December 2005

The diesel owners for my Liberty specifies 0-40 weight Mobil 1 synthetic. I think this is a good choice, as one of the the real advantages of synthetic is the low viscosity when cold, providing immediatem lubrication. I have been going with the schedule "B" which requires oil changes every 6500 miles. I go 10k with synthetic on my Porsches, (Porsche recommends 15k) but with the diesel I think 6500 is enough.
As for the Liberty being a girly ute, after being thrown out of my wrangler and almost killed a few years ago, I enjoy the extra comfort and safety of the Liberty, and I have been able to go everywhere I went in the Wrangler. And I get about twice the mileage of the Wrangler.

johnloehr · December 2005

Can anyone tell me where the plug for the block heater is on the Libertyy CRD? My sticker says I have one, but after an extensive search and reference to the owner's manual I can't find it.

farout · December 2005

I am not sure what this has to do with my cruse control issue? The engine I have no real complaints with at all. The roads I travel don't always let me get into 5th OD. That is proberly why I am at 21 to 22 mpg. Happy New Year.

Farout

farout · December 2005

Look at the oild dip stick. The cord is nicely put just under the dip stick. It has plenty of cord to reach beyond the battery and you can put it down in front of the battery when not in use.Attach the cord in three or four spots so it stays put on it, way to the battery. Merry Christmas!

Farout

whitgallman · December 2005

The product data sheet for this Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck & SUV reads just like Mobil Delvac 1 5W-30.
It has more sulphated ash (probably more ZDDP) than the Mobil 1 0W-40 european car oil.

whitgallman · December 2005

On my 2006, the block heater cord was bundled up and shoved to the left of the fuel filter. May need to pull off the noise shield (?) to see it. I used the tyraps to rout it up to the grill. It now sticks out of the grill just enough to plug in.

whitgallman · December 2005

meant Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40.

My Dealer got with someone at D-C who said it was OK to use the Delvac 1 5W-40.

"WE GOT WITH CHRYSLER AND LOOKED INTO THE OIL SITUATION. WE GOT THEIR SPECS AND CROSSED THEM WITH THE SPECS OF THE MOBILE 1 DELVEC 1 5W-40. THEY WERE THE SAME. SO YES YOU CAN USE THAT TYPE OF OIL WITH YOUR JEEP."

The Delvac 1 meets D-C oil spec 228.5 and the Mobil 1 0W-40 meets 229.3. The Delvac has more detergents/Dispersants and more ZDDP (anti-wear) and has less Viscosity Index Improver. (VIIs have a history of not being very shear stable and are therefore not preferred by me. I like having a thicker PAO base stock to keep minimum oil film clearance up a little more.)

The CRD engine uses 6.3 or 6.4 quarts. I'm thinking of getting the 6 quart pack of Mobil 1 Truck & SUV and topping off the last 0.4 quart with some Mobil 1 15W-50
that I've got on the shelf.

Our local NAPA store keeps all these Mobil synthetics in stock.

whitgallman · December 2005

I have a 2006 CRD. Do they have a catalytic converter in the exhaust system?

whitgallman · December 2005

I read the message on possible oil contamination of MAF sensors and read the K&N statement, but Unclebubba said he had been using one.
Has it continued to work OK Unclebubba? Did you see performance/fuel economy increase at all? Anybody else try it?

I've seen very obvious performance improvement with a K&N filter on my Cummins Powered Ram Dodge. I asked Santa for a 33-2233 K&N air filter for it.
Do you still like your K&N in your CRD?

unclebubba · December 2005

I have not experienced any problem with the K&N filter to date. I also have not had any noticeable increase in mpg.
I like K&N filters in general and they are used in my other vehicles, including my motorcycle. I will not go back to paper element filters!

unclebubba · December 2005

Had the engine light come on three times since November. Star released EGR (OEM type) that came on the CRD. Light came on in less than 200 miles. Same code for poor/bad EGR function. Left it with them for a week, picked it up after Alvin, the diesel tech at dealer, completed tests and downloads. He took it on a 20 mile test drive without problems. I drove it 15 miles and the light was back on. Same code for EGR. He called STAR and they have released a re-engineered EGR. Hopefully this will be what solves the problems many of us here have experienced.

Alvin, the diesel tech at dealer, started a case on the car with STAR and jumped through all of STAR's hoops and we have finally reached the point of a redesigned EGR valve. I don't know what to tell those of you who have had EGR problems what to do, but if you can get the service department to start a case on your vehicle, STAR may also release these EGR's to you. Good luck and when I get the new EGR installed I will post what happens.

claudieboy · December 2005

Have owned my '05 jeep liberty crd since april '05. Engine light came on at about 1000 miles (went out three days later). Engine light came on at 4000 miles. Didn't go out. Took to dealer who found a fat mouse (or mice) had eaten through windshield washer container, various wires and rubber hoses, a/c box , and various bits and pieces of insulation on firewall.

Liberty has been garaged all time. Pest exterminator put out stickey stuff plus bait in both garages. No catches yet. Jeep is kept in metal carport for now.

Total estimated cost to repair: $950. House insurance may cover, car insurance may also.

Finish to mouse (mice) saga when repairs are complete and fight with insurance companies is over.

Any obvious answers to mouse problem accepted. When can I be sure the mice (mouse) won't attack again?

whitgallman · December 2005

The K&N should reduce the pressure drop to the turbo inlet. On the Dodge Cummins (mine is a 1990) all the power booster kits from guys like bullydog etc start with a K&N filter.

If there is not a big effect on the Jeep CRD, maybe the pressure drop through the intercooler is big enough to over shadow it or the Jeep filter already has very low pressure drop.

Yes all my machines get a K&N early on. Keeping airborn dirt out is key to reducing internal wear. With tighter oil films in journal bearings on modern car engines where they want to reduce oil viscosity drag to increase fuel economy, you've got to have tight air filters. The trick is to do it without increasing pressure drop, like with more surface area. like with a K&N filter.

(is anyone else bored on Christmas Day to the point of filling up message boards w/ verbage?)

whitgallman · December 2005

Talking about Jeep CRDs brought up the Chrysler Gas Turbine car.
When we were kids in 1965, mom, a school teacher, took us on a 3 week road trip from South Carolina to California and back. Mom passed away over 30 years ago, but we still have the slides she took of the trip that I recently digitized. Of interest were the shots of the 1965 Chrysler gas turbine car that had drawn a crowd at Yellowstone. My brother posed next to it. THANKS! MOM! (I'm getting teary eyed on Christmas)

The folks at Allpar.com have a web site page with pictures.

http://allpar.com/mopar/turbine.html

Evidently we were close to having them available on the lot except that when Chrysler got their gov't loan in 1984(?), the gov't said NO NEW MODELS during the recovery. So the production documents were shelved.

whitgallman · December 2005

I've had a diesel fettish for a very long time. '79 Chevy C10 w/5.7, '63 Mercedes 190 Dc, '85 Cadi w/V-6 GM, '90 Cummins Dodge truck and now '06 Liberty CRD. At work its Enterprise DSRV-16s, Nordberg FS1316s and EMD 645s.
I'm having to look into the new ULSD fuel due in October (is it now?).
One thing I ran across was that the static charge conductivity will be much lower. When it does come out, it should be great for our CRDs but please be careful about static charge build up when filling your Jeep. The most charge is generated as electrons are stripped off when pumping large volumes through filters, like at the filling station. Please look out for this until we know better.
Also, unless any of you know better then please tell me, (I got this from a BP diesel fuel tech guy) all of the ULSD avbailable so far has been #1 diesel, not #2. #1 is close to kerosene in boiling point range and is easier to remove the sulfur from. It has higher cetane (burns more promptly when injected) but less BTU per gallon, lower mpg. Our town's city transit fleet is working to qualify their engines to new EPA requirements and some buses previously run on regular #2 are getting much lower mpg on the ULSD #1.
I need to find out if the new #2 ULSD will need any different engine oil. Thought is oil will need less Total Base Number additive (usually a calcium sulphonate) and reactions may take place that make the calcium sulphonate into a hard solid in the combustion chamber or ring grooves.
PLEASE send any experiences you have along these lines. I'll keep you up to speed if you wish.
Caribou1, can you tell me about fuel sulfur levels in Europe and about the oils used?

Jeep Liberty Diesel

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