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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    1 quart at minimum line. Your sales person and the shop foreman should have taken time to explain this. Go back and ask for a full tour, or get your dime back.

  • Thanks for the info-my car is still new with 800 miles on it
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    Yeah, twice that I know of: once in the mid 70s and recently with the explorer fiasco Bridge/Firestone initially denied a problem and later pitched a fit when they were forced to replace them. Their actions cost people their lives. I won't deal with that company anymore, but again, as I said, thats me.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    I had a 05 Liberty Limited that I bought in Jan. 05. I traded it in on a Sport CRD on Sept.29. I like the Sport much better. The cloth seats are so much more comfortable. The 17' tires on the Limited are much higher in price.

    The first thing I would and did do is put on tires that match your driving conditions. I went with Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor 245 70 16 and had the dealer make the correction for the oversize tire. There was a $34. charge. There is no rubbing and the tires are very quiet I am pleased.

    Then have the dealer put on the molded Liberty mud flaps. If you don't expect mud and water and other wet junk to even be on your drivers and passengers front door handles.

    Something I thought would be a big waste of money, but the Sport came with it is the rear cargo organizer. The sticker price was $250. and to my wife and my surprise it is really worth every penny!

    We enjoy the power sunroof. The 6 CD stereo is a nice extra.

    Now for me this is not an extra but a must. I always buy the Daimler Chrysler Service Contract. I get the 5 years Max care $0 deductible. The dealer can with some real insistence on your part get you a 3 year interest free contract as I described for $1,540.00 They will try every way to tell you they can't do it. But they don't get any money until you pay all the money off. They do get $100. at the end of the payments. This is a very good bargaining tool when you come to closing the deal.

    See if you can get your dealer to give you as many free oil changes as possible. They run from $69. to $90. depending on the dealer.

    So go forth and find the American Dream..... Nothing compares to a JEEP.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    You might check it at every fill up until you use a quart. I used my first quart at 3,800miles, now at 7,400 it still says full. Happy new year and Peace on Earth.

  • After driving a gasoline 2002 Liberty for 117,000 miles I traded for a 2006 CRD. After 7700 miles I like the switch.

    I have leather seats and wouldn't trade them for anything. Especially the heated seats in the Minnesota winter. I did not find the leather uncomfortable in the summer. The six way power seats are most important. My sons are 6ft 7in tall. They don't take mom's Liberty too often! Just be sure you have enough leg room. Also enough head room. The sun roof does take out some head room.

    The biggest disappointment are the Wrangler ST tires.. They are fine on ice and snow but there is very little control on wet roads.
  • Thanks for the reply. I finally found it today; I had seen the cord, but the plug was buried and I was afraid to cut the zip ties and look for it until I got a chance to look at another CRD today. (The owners manual says it is on the left side of the engine attached to the heater hose, in the 3.7 litre only!) Thanks again for the help and Merry Christmas.
  • I've had my CRD for seven months and about10k miles, with no trouble other than a checkengine light early on that the dealer said was an EGR problem and fixed. (I think it was replaced because they had to wait a week for parts) The car has plenty of power, accelerates well, and is fun to drive, and I say this from the perspective that my other car is 1999 Porsche Carrera. I live on 90 acres on the east slope of the blue ridge mountains and do quite a bit of off road driving. The CRD seems to similar geometry to my 1997 Wrangler, and so far has performed well in mud and snow on the trails; I would say it is the equal of my old Wrangler, and superior to my 1992 Range Rover, although as a pure off roader maybe not quite as good as my 1988 Comanche. I also towed our 22 foot Airstream camper this summer and the CRD performed well. It was very stable while towing on the highway and the short wheelbase made maneuvering the trailer into tight campsites a breeze. I've been consistently getting 20-22 mpg in local driving and 25-27 on the highway, which I consider excellent for a vehicle with theses capabilities and definitely an improvement over both the Rover and the 2000 Durango we traded in on the Liberty. It also gets considerably better mileage than either of my Wranglers (one was a 2.5l 4 cyl 5 speed manual and the other 4.0l auto; I was never able to get 20mpg with either, in the same type of driving as the CRD) Oh yes, while Virginia is not the great whit north, we have had a number of 16f mornings already this winter and the CRD has always started easily and with no use of the block heater to date.
    Sorry to be so long winded, but the Christmas holiday has left me with some leisure time and I thought this forum could use some specific good news about the CRD performance. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
  • Thanks for all the answers

  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,178
    Welcome to the Forum. Stories like your's make me think I could use a Jeep CRD. Have a great new Year.
  • I stay here, get lost a lot lately, i don't seem to be going to the forum or researching unlimited as much.
    Somehow, I linked to

    I was considering a Renegade with the 3.55 rear end before the first jeep we drove was the crd and purchased it. This article, although about gm diesels, clears a lot up about the torque curve, rear end gears, speed, and mpg's.

    Those of you smarter than me may find this boring.
    Santa is getting us an aero turbine 2525 muffler tomorrow.
  • I have an order in for the 2006 Liberty, 22G package also and most all the bells and whistles. (Ordered 10/05 and expected 02/06 now!) Anyway - I'm considering dropping the Sirius radio option and getting the GPS navigation instead. I read somewhere that you can add Sirius to the GPS system, since they are both satellite. It seems that would work, that I'd just have to sign up for satellite radio service after the fact. But I'm curious to know that it does indeed work as I'm thinking it should. Has anyone done this?

    I know I could just use my handheld GPS and my own CD's, but I'm in the position to be able to get all the options if I want and I just may! Would help IF I ever decided to sell it someday down the road.
    Anyone who knows if this would work, please let me know soon as it's getting close to build time!
    Thanks all!
    Michelle (crd4me2)
  • I have the GPS navigation system on my CRD and I was hesitant about getting it at first. But now, after I have used it, I can't imagine not having it. It is great.

    You can easily add Sirius to the RB1 radio at any time. It is strange why they do not make the GPS and Sirius available together from the factory.

    To add Sirius to the RB1, you will need to add an antenna and some wiring. This is not a do it yourself job for most people, but it is easy for any Sirius or Jeep dealer installer.
  • Some time ago I mentioned going south to fl. I found interesting results on mileage. At first results were as most are getting in cold weather, about 23-25,this with less than 4000 mi. I did use additives and as I went along, I finally got mileage results which were very good. In fact after getting to GA. and on we got 32 at 60 mph, 30 at 65 mph and maintained 29 at 70. For those who wonder about possibilities, good results can be abtained. I may go off the fuel additive and see if there is a diferance other than power service. I would still like to make a trip at 55 to see what the results would be, we seem to be in a hurry most of the time however. Of note, we are like others here in Punta Gorda traffic, getting 22-23 is all in city driving.
    In short we are very happy with our 06 and it's performance. Happy sailing, BR
  • sgrolsgrol Posts: 1
    Am looking into the Liberty CRD. One quick question: What is the oil capacity of the 2.8 CRD engine.
  • Way to go Sailorman !!
    Yahhhh Baby ! Well it's about time you got some results..
    Just keep track of those tire pressures.

    They should be chacked periodically and kept at 35 psi.

    .. And stick to a premium diesel fuel at a higher cetane.It's worth the extra 30 cents,as that will give an extra 90 miles out of that tank full.
    Ya ! go ahead and experiment without using the cetane improver.
    But what you are going to really notice is as I expect.. ,

    a reduction in Mpg's over a tank full.experiment with regular and premium over a weeks time...
    You'll also have better mileage at a 45 mph range as well if you can find a side road to travel on at that speed.

    A lubricity additive will be important when travelling from a warm climate , to a colder climate as the chance of getting water in fuel will be higher when filling.

    Adding this will ensure an averagely higher percentage of burnable fuel .As it changes the water composition chemically to something similar to Kerosene.
    This is worth every dollar or as I say .., BANG ! for your BUCK ! for mpg's,and a cetane improver is a BONUS,as this will help get you up to cruising speed faster and minimal rpm's for cruising for Max efficiency of mpg's.
    Well I 'll be heading down that way myself in April to test her out,and whack ! some balls on the greens ..
    Happy Holidays...
    Lightnin3 ...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    To answer you about the fuel sulfur levels in Europe:
    I clearly say we are not documented sufficiently to give a formal statement. The only info I can share comes from local experience and colleagues from eastern Europe. Going to LSDiesel is underway, and to ULSD is related to procurement of the necessary lubricity improver, ie methylester. The ULSD Bio-diesel I'm buying is a swiss-blended french refined crude oil mixed with german grown canola oil methylester. Prices differ quite a bit between normal and ULSD, but I've never heard of repeated mileage improvement from any user.
    The oils used in the common rail engines are 15-40 semi-synthetic and 5-40 full synthetic. The 0-40 grade has not been recommended for diesels or 'boxer' type engines (Porsche, Subaru, etc).
    Oil change interval was 12,000 miles using semi-synthetic and is now 15-20,000 miles using full-synthetic.
    Fuel filters are usually changed at ~30,000 miles and are not the fancy Parker-Racor type I have now on this Jeep. I should be able to keep it 50,000 miles at least.
    What needs be looked at seriously to my opinion is the air filter that I find undersized for someone living in a dusty environment.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The oil fill capacity according to the owners manual is 6.4 quarts, including the oil filter.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Funny thing about the air filter. I had an Isuzu diesel car over twenty years ago with a 1.8L diesel engine. I remember the air filter being a bit larger than the air filter in the CRD. It was an oiled filter, but there was no MAF. I do not recall an oily film inside the tube running from the air filter to the intake manifold. I change the air filter yearly, unless it is a K&N. It is cheap insurance. I will not be using the K&N in the CRD because the engine pulls way too much air for that filter to handle. If K&N built a filter strictly for the CRD,I would consider it.

    As to the engine oil, 0W-40 is just way too light and the viscosity spread is just too wide for my taste. I am using a 5W-40 now (synthetic) and will switch to a 15W-40 synthetic this summer for better engine protection. I have a long trip or two planned for this summer to Florida. The wife and I are looking to relocate there by next fall.

    The fuel filter will be change yearly too, but considering the poor quality of U.S. diesel fuel, it is better than having a ruined injection system. I will stick with the stock filter system for now.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    amsoil is marketing new air filters that looks good it is made by donaldson they are doing away with all oil air filters k@n passes to much dirt not available yet for the crd
  • You ran only 70mph on I-75 through Georgia and lived to tell about it? That's amazing!
  • I ran from the Christmas tree to the Jeep with my K&N in hand. I think I got 0.5 mpg better with it on my standard run from the Flying J truckstop to my exit on I-85. Other factors could explain.
    The original filter has some notes on it like "98%" of something. Maybe more research will show an ASTM test we can get numbers from to show CFM and particle size for the two filters. The original had many tight pleats.
  • I was missing the daytime running lights that my Chevy had and researched a solution based on the Canadian version had them so there must be a simple fix.

    The dealer got a relay pt.#56042216-AB or 8052328 ($42.60 retail) for it.
    This relay replaces the 4671168E relay.
    You open the fuse cover in the left end of the dash board, pull out the 4671168E relay, put in the 56042216-AB, they are different sizes and go in slightly different holes. The 56042216-AB looks bigger and has cooling fins like it has some resister in it that cuts the voltage to the headlight bulbs when in daytime mode.
    He then went into the "Body Computer" and told it the body was Canadian.
    I'm sure no one else will think daytime running lights are important enough to do this but I thought I'd file the experience.
    How did you guys say you get access to the body computer?
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,178
    I could not find a K&N filter for the Liberty CRD. I put one on my Suburban 350 CI and found no improvement in mileage. I went back to the dealer that sold it to me and they said I needed a better exhaust system to take advantage of the increased intake airflow. So about $800 later I had a noisier Suburban and the same 13 MPG around town and 17 MPG on the highway. I'm a skeptic. You can buy a lot of OEM filters for the cost of a K&N filter.

    They look kinda cool though.
  • Thanks Caribou1.
    Yes Bio-diesel adds lubricity and adds oxygenates that help the fuel burn cleaner.
    Another thing that increases lubricity is the Bio-Bor JF biocide made by Hammonds chemical.
    The big US pipelines have refused to allow lubricity additives in the ULSD to be shipped by pipe because it contaminates the Jet fuel. The Distributor will have to add it. We (at work) can't qualify the distributor but we can take credit for the lubricity of the biocide we add. We'll be calibrating the lubricity of Bio-Bor JF before Fall. Everyone should consider using a biocide in their diesel fuel a couple of times a year.
    Chevron has an excellent booklet on Diesel fuel that can be down loaded
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,178
    I looked for 2006 model. That looks simple enough to me. I spent about $390 getting one installed in the Suburban. That experience kind of turned me off on K&N. A drop in replacement would not be a bad idea.

    Keep us posted on your mileage.
  • K & N air filter....Modern day snake oil
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    you got it k@n filters pass lots of dirt
  • We got our aero turbine 2525 installed today at Sportscar Performance in Arlington, TX. We are not affiliated with either aero turbine or Sportscar Performance. Click on aero link for picture:
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