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Comments
As to slamming into gear when you put it in reverse, I have had the same thing happen on a few occasions. It is rather unnerving. If it becomes a more consistent issue then the dealer will hear from me.
Thanks, Siberia
Skeeter
I do always try to let it warm up a little before starting out but I'll give it about a min. the next time to see if there is a differance.... You know how when you tack one up before it changes gear it hits a little harder than normal going into the next gear ?? I would say that mine going into 3rd gear for the first few miles is twice as hard...I will be keeping an eye on it for awhile and if it keeps it up I guess I'll make another visit
Thanks again,
Skeeter
Was your scan tool working before you had your crd reflashed to fix the transmission, and then you had to have it reflashed again so your scan tool would work again ??? Because I just had mine "flashed" "recall" so an after-market scan tool would work and I am wondering if something happened when that was done that makes it shift hard into 3rd gear !!!
:confuse: LK
In the first mile or so after first start of the day and especially when it is cool to cold, the trans is sluggish when it shifts. It is never really harsh or hard, just a bit sluggish. What I have learned is that the trans fluid, ATF+4, is a semi-synthetic product. It is the petroleum component in the ATF that is the problem when the temperature drops. When I get to 20K miles, I will be doing the first trans fluid change. I will be flushing out the factory fluid completely and replacing it with a completely synthetic trans fluid that exceeds ATF+4 specs. I have used a straight synthetic fluid in a trans before with very good results.
I suggest that in the first mile or three that you go easy on the power application until things warm up a bit. I drive my CRD gently in the first few miles to keep the level of stress down on components.
JW
Yes. The reflash to fix the transmission made it shift more firmly and quickly into 4th and 5th, but nothing I would call harsh.
Because I just had mine "flashed" "recall" so an after-market scan tool would work and I am wondering if something happened when that was done that makes it shift hard into 3rd gear !!!
I don't know. All I can say is that the scan tool reflash had no additional effect on mine other than the tool working, again.
I finally finished all my mileage tests with different combinations of fuel types, weather, filters, new tires, driving conditions and Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 versus dealership oil.
It took me practically 2 years to sort things out because I evaluated each combination after 3 tankfuls.
The varnish deposits (called 'coking' here) is the only source of problem I was able to identify and can reproduce (create) easely.
I only wave my finger towards our ULSD :lemon:
ULSD (5ppm sulfur fuel) made me loose 10% mileage after a few weeks. The engine never recovered it's original behaviour until recently when I changed to LSD (10ppm). It took me 6 full tanks of the LSD to "clean" whatever came out of the system.
The nice thing about this engine is to be able to step back without damage. After 3 years of daily use and over 50,000 miles it runs better than new! :shades:
I will keep:
- the BFG T/A tires that are noisy but can roll over concrete edges,
- the Parker-Racor R20S fuel filter,
- the Shell Helix Ultra oil.
I will keep as souvenirs:
- the K&N filter,
- the Provent ccv oil trap.
To my opinion the original air filter element (the white one made in Canada) does a good job but I'm using MANN paper cartriges instead. They are much cheaper and I prefer to change more often.
We didn't get a recall in the mail, either, but when I took our 2005 Liberty to the dealer for a check engine light (we thought it was the gas cap) and to fix a brake light (bad socket), they replaced the ball joints and gave us a new EGR (My original had about 14K miles on it).
You can type Jeep Extended Warranty into your search bar and start looking. There are several - not all the same prices. Here is one to try http://chryslerservicecontracts.com/
I got 7/70 for $1170. By financing the car I got $1000 cash off, turned around and paid it off before finance charges accrued thus really saving myself 1K. So, I figure the extended warranty cost only $170. :-) Nice.
I just called the parts store and we do not have that kind of Shell oil or that filter. However I DO USE SHELL ROTELLA 5-40W, and the DCX water/fuel filter.
I am not going to try a K&N or a Provent. If I am right tired old dave, made his own kind of provent, he dumped his CRD this summer as well as new2diesel. Wnow have 21,000 miles on our CRD, on the 29th we will have had the CRD 1 year.
Our diesel is now $2.35 a gallon, I am sure you price is much higher. Glad your back again
Farout
Nescosmo.
My engine oil level stays to it's "full" mark all the time, even after 15,000 miles. This was never the case 10 years ago!
If you look at the range of VM engines you will notice they already use the equivalent of the Provent ccv, if not the same unit. I agree the Provent can extend the life of your air-mass flow meter. I did not install the Provent because my engine(MY 2003)is already too old to have the emissions control you have, so fortunately it can live well in the oil fumes . The only 'emissions control' sensors I have are the fuel pressure and boost pressure. My boost pressure is regulated by a simple membrane actuated wastegate and spring return. My EGR is vacuum driven without any return signal so the engine and transmission work selfishly.
nescosmo.
I struggle to have bits and pieces come from NA because they are often better while you expect to get them from the EU
It was the same debate 25 years ago: I supplied local industry with quality assurance equipment coming from the US. It was top quality handcraft made by dedicated senior employees. The EU could no longer afford that at the time, and I had been told that robots don't smoke, drink, go on strike or to the ...
Today before buying I look where the goods come from and pay the extra money. I'm not a robot :P
I recently raced my CRD at the US Diesel Nationals in Englishtown, NJ. She ran Mid 17s at 75mph. This will finally end the debate of if it's fast. As you can see, NO!
Just to race the event proved a challenge.
8:00 A.M. Security stops me at the entrance to the track and tells me I can't race.
I ask why.
Told it's "Diesel only."
My answer. "Go Smell the %$&*@#* exhaust."
Quickly told to move up in line.
Everyone with a Big Rig and the diesel powered pickups from the big 3 were amazed at the little CRD. I spent 20 minutes at tech, just answering questions about the Jeep. Every Diesel junkie at the event was amazed and impressed with the quality of the little 2.8L. Not the fastest Diesel at the event as some heavily modified Big Rigs blew off low 16 second passes! Over all a good time.
If Jeep is reading this, I'd happily accept any gratuities for plugging the Jeep and explaining everything the best that I could. I had to tell many disappointed would be customers that they have to wait until the GC get the Mercedes next year if they want any Jeep with a Diesel.
All knowledge was gained from the smart minds that come here and take the time to educate and share their knowledge of Diesel engines.
If only I had a dollar for every person that told me it was a Mercedes engine instead of VM Motori I would be writing this from a lap top some place in the tropics. :shades:
Perhaps next year because of your participation there will be a "Pee-Wee" or "HO" class
Where you in front, between or behind the big rigs? I'm thinking of a 'Hitchcock' movie situation...
Well, I went out and purchased a K&N filter for my CRD about three weeks ago. I see you put yours away. I am finding that the K&N has made some difference. For one,turbo lag is down by more than one-third and at times seems non-existent. Fuel economy actually worsened a little but now I am using a lighter foot on the accelerator pedal and fuel economy is back to baseline.
As to oil, I am staying with the synthetic 15W-40 for now while I am in Florida. ULSD (15 ppm) fuel will not be here on a regular basis until about mid-October. I am able to get ULSD but unfortunately not on a regular basis as of yet. I looked at the specs for the Shell Helix oil and it is a CF rated oil. The oil I use is CI-4+ rated and considering the poor quality of U.S. diesel fuel (low cetane), I will continue to use it. The 15W-40 I use has specs similar to most 5W-40 synthetic oils.
While at the dealer we got a pamphlet on the Dodge NITRO. It comes with the 3.7 V-6 or the new phoenix 4 L V-6. I think the dash and the front end look odd to me, but from the front door hinges back it looks very good. This is what the 2008 Liberty will look like except for the front end and the dash. The spare tire is underneath, which I really like. With a longer wheel base it should ride better.
There were some 2007 Ram's in with the new diesel that meets the 2007 emissions, the cast was $5,800. extra for the diesel. I am not sure what the cost was for the 2006 Rams.
There seems no changes in the 2007 Liberty. The 2008 Liberty is scheduled to come out in late March.
In our area of 150 miles I don't find a new 2006 CRD anywhere. If there where we might have considered it rather than the 2006 3.7 we got for our daughter.
Diesel fuel is $2.359 now and gas is $1.999
Farout
Farout
I actually want something louder and have contemplated just running a straight pipe using the CAT as the only thing to muffle the sound.
I have heard from some people that a Diesel engine DOES NOT need back pressure. Gas engines do need some back pressure. Anyone that can shed more light on this?
I have had 2 egr valves replaced and the check engine light is on again. Same problem I believe. Hear a wooshing sound when the engine revs. Not the same as a turbo whine though. Engine had a lot more power when this EGR valve goes out. Revs faster etc. ALSO have two other problems that the dealer has not found a solution for yet. 1. Popping noise like a hammer under the car( can feel the popping also) when acelerating fast or stopping fast. ALSO have experienced (3 times)a LOSS OF ENGINE POWER (skipping) after making a sharp right hand turn. Turning direction may not have anything to do with it, but it has not happened on a left hand turn yet. Engine acts like it is running on one cyl. Will not pull the car more than 1 mph. No check engine light etc. It is resolved by turning the engine off and trying to restart it. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 long times to restart it. (very annoying in traffic) Engine was warm on 2 occasions and cold 1 time. Also sprang an oil leak that is putting a small pool of oil on the drivers side on top of the radiator.
Like I said, we love the car. Actually it is my wifes car. Now I want one.
ANY IDEAS ON THIS???
Mind telling me which oil filter relocation kit you ordered from Amsoil? I want to install one and am having trouble figuring out which one to order. thanks
Warranty: Got the contract paper immediately by email and the card and entire contract came yesterday - about 10 days. Ours is the gold coverage (bumper to bumper) so towing is included as well as a rental car.
Hope you enjoy your ride!
As i have said, i have a 2006 crd and when i check my transmission fluid "cold" haven't driven the truck for over 8-10 hours so it is around 75-85 degrees...the "cold" fluid checks about a quarter inch above the "hot" range (like it is way too full)....then when i check it "hot" it is in the hot range, say after driving it 40 or more miles !! just was wondering if anyone had checked their crd transmission "hot" and "cold" and what reading ya'll might have got ??
Thank you,
Skeeter
The last CRD in the Liberty was built in May, 06. To get the CRD to pass the 2007 Federal Emission standard it would have added too much cost to the vehicle. Even the Grand C CRD which is due out in 1/07 has had many problems that are yet to be worked out. The fuel mileage is less than the gas 4.7 V-8. So DCX has some fine tuning to due before 1/07.
As to the sound you hear, it sounds like a loose hose. Take to a dealer that knows CRD's real well. Hope this helps. Glad you are in the forum.
Farout
After looking at all sorts of warranties I can't find any other extended warranty that covers as much as the Chrysler warranty. The $50. ded 5 year 100,000 is $1,930. 36 monthly payments at 0% interest. I think this one looks best. Does anyone know of any Extended Warranty that's better, with the6 months and 0% interest?
Farout
I have the feeling that the Shell Helix oil is for European consumption only. I do have two ideas though.
1. Go to a car parts store that specializes in foreign, especially European, car parts. They might be able to get it.
2. Try contacting Shell via their website and see what they say.
nescosmo...
This oil is for overseas consumption. I searched the Shell website and all of the hits point to overseas, European and Asian markets. It is not available here.
Prairiegirl
90 F, or 32 C. This is suppose to be fall. I sure hope winter brings snow this year, and lots of it!
From the DCX engine production schedule, and what the engines go into, it looks like no diesel for the Liberty at least until 2012. That's as far as it shows the Phoenix engines going for now. But who knew much in advance that the Liberty was going to test the CRD for less than 2 years?
The only thing about the CRD I would change is the loudness of the engine. Its impossible to sneak up on wildlife to take close up pictures.
After buying a 2006 Sport Liberty 3.7 gas, I am kinda worn out with vehicles for a while.
I wrote Customer Care about these junky unsafe Good Year ST tires. I have come to the conclusion why they call these tires "ST" tires. Good Year left out the middle letters which are "HI", and with all letters in place, that is exactally what they are S--T tires.
Farout
Farout
Farout
I know that VM Motori is against biodiesel and that DCX's position is unclear. However, with B5 being the factory fill, IMHO you are totally safe using up to B5. I find much less smoke on even 5% biodiesel in the tank.
In case anyone is wondering how biodiesel could make this difference, it has three benefits:
-no sulfur and very low impurities in the biodiesel portion (soy methyl esters)
-higher cetane than LSD petrodiesel (biodiesel is around 51 cetane, LSD is 42 or possibly lower; however ULSD now arriving is supposed to be 51+)
-biodiesel contains some oxygen (11% oxygen in pure biodiesel), so the engine runs leaner and therefore has less unburned fuel
The part # are: 25-462 ( complete filter cost $87.00)
26-120 (6 pack of filters cost $69.00)and 26-850 (gaskets for the filter cost $5.00).This filters are made with synthics materials and filter at 8 micron or better also they are 0 pressure drop which means that the engine will get more oil with them than with regular filter. There is no bypass valve so the oil is filtered 100% at all time. Go to your search engine and type cm filters and learn more about them. they are the best and let me tell you the engine work alot better with this oil filter. Also forgot to tell you that each filter last 10k between changes.
I don't think you have to focus on a brand. Do you really put the engine in a condition where you can deteriorate the oil?
The Shell Helix Ultra I can get from supermarkets at ~8USD per quart. I used Yacco 5-W40 before and it made no difference.
There is a difference between the Shell Helix and Helix Ultra. The 'Helix Ultra' is used in the common rail engines and the 'Helix' for older diesel engines. I use it in my Toyota 2.0D.
Now about the K&N: mine did bring more air flow and faster reving of the engine.
It's the fixed torque converter control sequence that makes the K&N inefficient on my vehicle. I tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the ECU to 'teach' another driving mode when the K&N was there. It just didn't help, I had the impression I was spinning free and overheating the transmission oil.
Since the injection duration is mainly determined by boost pressure and load, the K&N cannot do much better than the original filter except when you accelerate while the TC stays locked at low revs. This occurs at 30mph in 3rd gear with OD "off" and 40mph in 4th gear with OD "on", on a sharp upgrade. My transmission locks at 1500 rpm in 3rd gear and 1700 in 4th.
When the EGR works well (or is absent), my truck behaves like if it had a manual transmission.
I have to play with the shifter between "D2" plus the OD button on windy mountain roads to avoid over spinning the converter or choking the engine. Choking the engine in low 4th gear then engages the 'kickdown' (called 2-1/2 gear on this transmission) and later skips 3rd gear to catch into 4th. This cycle can go on indefinitely...
Going downhill I use the same gear as going uphill. This saves the breaks and keeps driver attention on the road.
In other conditions, if the K&N brings more flow while it is not needed, the variable vanes of your turbo will regulate for less. I wanted and automatic but I lost the benefit of the K&N on a manual.
Anyway, one of the other (6) CRD's they sold is going back to DCX as they couldn't find the cause, and DCX doesn't know either. The owner of the CRD doesn't want it back. Maybe :lemon: law? He wouldn't say.
Has anyone installed 4:10 gears in their CRD?
Is there anything about the Zoom you wish was different? Have you had any problems with the Zoom? Anything else you wish to share I would appreciate.
Farout
When talking to the service man at carmax, he told me that Chrysler has plans to introduce several diesels next year including the new commando (commander?) and a chrysler car as well. He thinks that they jumped the gun on the clean diesel availability. I am in Georgia, so I cannot tell you exactly what is in our local diesel.
In some ways, I am disappointed in the service problems, but I do feel that some answers are right around the corner.
We do love the car and depending on theoutcome of the RedLine conditioner, I my buy another as well. :shades:
chip
We have the FD or Front Dinette model. The QB or Queen Bed model the table will not go against the wall, ie sticks out in the isle due to the wheel well. Also,we wanted the side couch in the FD.
I have posted on this site about the Zoom including pictures:
http://www.dutchmen-rv-forum.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=29
Our CRD has 27K since Mid-August 05 Delivery, runs well, except for the occasional shudder. Oil changes every 5K, but the first was a 2.5K,
Pulling the Zoom TT we get between 15.2 and 16.5 mpg driving in OD at 65mph. Is shifts down to much around 58-60 mph so I just drive at 62-65. We have had it in the foot hills of Southern Ohio and in a few areas of Michigan. I can't complain about it as a tow vehicle, as I just don't except it to pull like a K20 with 454 V8. I have been thinking about having the gears changed to 4:10 to get additional pulling power, but I'm going to try a different set of tires first that are 29" in diameter -slightly smaller that stock. Maybe I would have to drive at 65 then. I'm the only one posting on the Zoom, so I must have the only one sold.
Could it be that EU diesel fuel is better than what we get here? The EU requires a cetane of 51 or better and they have had ULSD for sometime in most of the EU also. So a CI-4+ rated oil is probably not required in the EU while a CF rated oil is quite sufficient there.
Domestic diesel fuel borders on being garbage. It is considered an industrial fuel. Only now are we getting ULSD and cetane will be in the upper forties, not the low to mid fifties.
Consider this. The recommended oil for the CRD is CF rated. It is made by Mobil-Exxon, one of if not the biggest domestic oil companies. Mobil 1 is not a highly rated oil and in my view and in the view of others is an adequate synthetic oil. It is obvious by those who use Shell synthetic oils that they are quite satisfied.
As for the drinking water, I was in the Austrian Alps some years ago and I found the drinking water quite excellent!