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Between 18K-23K miles my engine began to chirp. Usually this was right after start-up and it went away after the engine was warm. By the time my 25k service came up, it was pretty much a continious chirp. An idler pulley was replaced and the chirp went away.
2-3k later the chirp came back. This Monday it would start.
I took it too the garage and the tensioner was sticking. The alternator was testing good and the battery had charge.
Before we replaced just the tensioner, I asked the tech if we could pleace put the alternator under load. He said yes so I turned EVERTHING on: defroster, rear defroster, fan, bright, Hazards, ANYTHING that would pull electricity. The chirping reached a full Cardinal chorus. The alternator was slipping on the belt when it was under a heavy load.
TRUE, the alternator was developing sufficient charge during idle testing but you could watch is booble and twist under load where, most likely, the vibration from the bad pulley or possibly poor tensioner mucked up the alternator's bearings. I had a fan clutch that knocked out a water pump many moons ago so this is what I think happened this time. Hopefully nothing else was knocked out to.
So, if you have a squeak or chirp, investigate it. Hopefully my parts replacement will fix this (again).
Cheers,
Boiler
The chirping "Cardinal chorus" is unfortunately common to flat (serpentine) belts. Any slight misalignment creates the same sound a railroad bogie makes while going around a curve. It's caused by differential speed of contact. You just have to suffer a while until it warms up or turn the steering at a stop light. :sick:
"There will be a SLIGHT torque reduction with this change." Whatever that means :mad: I hope I can't notice it...esp with my camping trailer.
The full change will be around 8 hours, but I didn't look closely at the breakdown of the hours and it varied by year. It appears that the tranny fluid get changed but nothing was stated about the replacement filters. I will have the dealer put new ones in since the pan gets dropped. They did talk about the fluid, but I suppose the dealer could use the old fluid if they saved it, new for me please.
The electric cooling fan is removed and they have a modification to make on the tranny oil cooler which is also the A/C condenser.
Anyway, Monday night I will know how the changes effect the performance, hoping for no :surprise: (s). But will have to wait until next year to go camping
There are several pages on the reprograming of the TCM this was different by year.
I have now driven 230 miles from when the re-program was done. Don't notice any change.
Farout
My CRD is 01/2006 production, and when I punched the VIN into the Jeep site the only thing that comes up is the ball joint recall ... so I'm wondering if there was some running production change* and the later CRD's already have the "improved" transmission components.
*I recall that last fall people were complaining about multi-month waits between ordering a CRD and delivery, and so wonder if they temporarily stopped production pending receipt of modified transmissions.
#3203 of 8290 Re: Star not releasing EGR even though I get only 18mpg [clarkkent] by tired_old_dave Dec 24, 2005 (8:51 am)
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Replying to: clarkkent (Dec 23, 2005 8:29 am)
"Remember, it's a Girley Jeep"
That is well known. But the diesel factor has some saving grace. I saw a bumper sticker on the back window of a pick'em up truck last week
"Silly Boys, Trucks are for Girls"
Merry Christmas, Joyeaux Noel, Happy Holidays
No more wars - Peace on Earth
But only when I park pointing up hill. It drips out the gap in the headliner above the side cargo area windows. perhaps it would leak where yours does if I parked pointing down hill. what have they done to yours? I too am taking it to the dealer for the third time. They changed out the glass the last time but it still leaks.
Yes, I can see Dick Martin decribing the reasons for DCX to be awarded the "Fickle Finger of Fate Award" presented by Tiny Tim while "Tip(ping) Toe Through The Tulips"!
I read somewhere that the TC contains or hopefully, now contained plastic vanes in the pump section rather then welded steel ones of years gone by.
So I quote:
"The transmission torque conveter on your vehicle may fail. This can cause a rattling sound....blah blah blah....Continued operation can result in transmission damage."
It continues:
"...your dealer will replace the torque converter and reprogram the engine torque to enhance torque converter and transmission durability. the work will take 5.5 hours to complete. If testing indecates the trasmission has been damaged, another hour will be required...."
So here's my question. Do you suppose if they find damage they just put an entire transmission in? What do you guys (and ladies) suppose they do in the extra hour of repair time? What do you think might be replaced if damage has occurred? I apologize if it was in an earlier post and I missed it.
I believe my build date is 02/2005.
Those wrenches? They have them at Mills Fleet Farm. I bought two and left one at my parent's farm just in case. I don't recall them being star wrenches as much as just 8MM allens.
I got a socket driver with a swivel head on it.
If they put in a new transmission, the extra hour might be uncrating the new transmission, crating up the old one, transferring some external parts from old to new, adding oil, linkage adjustment on the new one, test drive, etc.
If parts are changed in the old one it could be transmission pump (may be changed regardless), clutch pack, some parts washing, gaskets, filters, oil, test drive, etc.
I've done all of this at one time or another and sometimes I spend an hour just drinking a beer and staring at parts.
Also is there a link where i can see the recall?
I understand and concur with what you are saying and that is why I put up with the chirping for 7k miles until I finally commented about it at the dealership. At first it chirped upon startup and then went away. Then it chirped all the time. After the idler pulley and serpentine belt was replaced, it chirped until the belt broke in. Now that the tensioner, belt and alternator has been replaced, it chirps no more (again).
When I turned all of the electrical doo-dads at the shop (after driving it for an hour to get there) and put the alternator under load, it wobbled while the belt started to slip and the chirping audibly increased. I think the tensioner ate both of them (alternator and 2 serpentine belts). There was an inordinate amount of belt residue on the pulleys. Only time will tell. Right now she sounds like a sewing machine at idle...not an aviary.
Boiler
It would be GREAT to know what vehicles fall under the F37 and if (I hope) ours benefited from a running production change and our tranny's have been OK since Day One.
It takes an enormous force to keep a serpentine belt under tension. This force tends to "twist" the mounting brackets of driven elements.
Older vehicles had double mounting/pivotating points that kept the pulleys well aligned within the plane defined by the routing of the belt. You can check the alignment of your pulleys with a steel ruler: you should be able to reach other pulleys and observe the parallelism. To check the alignment of the belt when it sits in it's in position you can use a flat object like a plastic draftsman square. All curves of the belt should touch or be close to the surface.
Otherwise observe the pulleys:
- there can be a shiny side corresponding to a severe squew
- there can be an evenly shiny aspect corresponding to a normal operation under load (slippage is normally ~3%)
- the tensionner must always keep a dull aspect. If it shines, it's out of alignment.
If you say your engine sounds like a sewing machine, check your hearing-aid batteries or you may not be listening to your own engine. Over here I could say you are listening to the engine of the Toyota pick-up truck looking for a prey :mad:
And I'm not kidding
Has anyone tried a before and after dynamometer test before turning their precious CRD over to Big Brother DC? I think I may! I have so much satisfaction from my 03/05 diesel Liberty at ~22,000 mi. How can they effectively force us (by otherwise walking away from transmission warranty) into a reduction in performance specs. I'm afraid I'd have to go for the jugular if I lost some of the torque, which I need every bit of when towing around mountainous central Washington (not D.C.).
Or maybe there's nothing to the hullabaloo. But objective numbers would be nice ! Zen!
Farout
Farout
Farout
The Date of Manufacture is 6-05?? Is that June, '05?? How do you know the day???
It looks like we have the same build month, how about that?What color is yours? Ours is the Deep Beryl Green. When we hit a deer in Sept of this year, they had to replace the front stuff, so I had then put in the Chrome Grill, which sorta sets our Sport off a little. I have seen other do this to their Sport as well.
WE put the 245 70 16 Wrangler Silent Armor tires on and this changes the ride drasticly! A very sturdy solid ride and handles so much better. The ST tires were also on the 06 Sport Liberty we bought for our daughter. The ST tires were changed the first week,
Hope all is well with you and your's !!!
My CRD build date is 2/06.....do you think my CRD should get the recall F37 ??
thanks,
Skeeter
Nescosmo.
If true, this is an interesting bit of information, Nescosmo. There is no high rpm torque problem so the hp (high rpm torque) does not need to be cut. It may be possible to cut the low end torque a little and alter the torque curve so the the total area under the curve is the same. Maybe the CRD will still have the same 0-60 time just not light up the tires off the line so easy - cut the torque at 1800 rpm - increase the torque at say, 2500 rpm - just speculation.
Farout
Farout
SKEETER
Has anyone ordered the roof top cargo carrier - I'm thinking of getting one - how do they compare with other products on the market?
Just to be safe, I carry an extra filter and a strap wrench in my emergency kit which also has tow straps and all kinds of other goodies in it. I also have a 4 quart jug of Rotella 5-40 in it.
For normal around town stuff I don't drive around with all that gear.
I don't have the roof top carrier. I just got the bars so we can put a canoe up on top, that's it.
Hope this is helpful.
What did you choose to replace them with???
Thought a little poll might be helpful since I think I've read here that those STs aren't exactly the favorite tire.
Many of the people I have read posts on lately are replacing them with Forteras or the Silent Armor tires by GoodYear.
After 30k miles, I went a more economical route and put on a set (4) Firestone Destination LE's. They are over $200 less for the set (local prices or over $400 vs over $600).
They do not have a "coolness" or "wow" factor as some of the more premium tires mentioned above. However, thus far, they have done very well in the rain and they did fine this week in some light off-roading. They are a blackwall tire in our factory spec'd size. They are just as quiet and just as smooth as the ST's but have a longer wear rating and a better all-season tread design. The tire, in my opinion, is aggressive enough for the light off-roading and the snow we recieve here in Central Indiana while remaining smooth and quiet on the highway and road where the largest percentage of time this jeep spends.
So, I split the baby and saved some money in the process.
Hope this helps,
Boiler
My opinion, yes. Coupled with driving style, it may have actually been the answer (but I'm not holding my breath).
Boiler
I changed for BFG T/A in size 225x75x16. They are smaller than the original tires, more noisy, a lot more resistant on the sidewalls and surprisingly stable on the highway. So far I've driven more than 30,000 miles and still have more than 50% tire life left before getting to the lower marks (~1/16").
I have to carry chains with me for winter conditions in mountain roads: the chains don't touch the front wheel pit liners with 225 tires. The only negative aspect is their cost: I had to pay 750 Euros for the set of 5.
Snow grip tends to become less aggressive after two summers and entering the third winter. I guess it's like having a good pair of hiking shoes, what makes us decide to change?
I have the opinion they may well have made the extra 200 for IINS test and some for emissions tests, or even perhaps with different diesel engines to test them out as well. It's anyone's guess.
Call your dealer and they can check it out much better, and maybe answer your questions.
Farout
The big reason I do not want a rood top carrier is the fuel mileage goes down, way down like 16 to 18 mpg. We bought a CRD with the inside rear cargo organizer. It adds so much extra shelf space and comes in very handy. After having a Liberty Limited that did not have the organizer, and when this CRD one came with one as an option ($250.) we don't know how we did it with out the organizer. You can make go flat or pull it up and double the floor space back there. Also it has no effect on mpg.
Farout
Reffering to previous discussions, the EGR problem seems to be related to it's airflow control valve position sender, and could be better protected when using the Provent CCV oil catcher. Please correct me if I am wrong, but this is an important finding if not simply a corellation
I have the "THULE" bars that fit nicely and can be left inside the cabin when not used. This is a 10% saving on mileage.
How can you put something heavy up there?
My manual says we can load 75 Kg (150 pounds)on the roof but I can't see how one can do this without parking next to a loading dock :sick:
I have 22,000 miles on these tires and they are 1/2 gone.
I like the tires but I would not have bought them unless the tire dealer gave me a good price for mine. $ 399. and my tires. AS much as I like the tires These are to much for my budget. Cooper tires has Merit, Signet, and a few other brands they make. I may go with those next time. I doubt I will use the 245 70 16 size again either> I think the 225 75 16 are better suited for the Liberty. The wider tires do effect fuel mileage, and I guess it to be at least 1 mpg and maybe as much as 3 mpg. There is a place when turning as tight as I can turn that sounds like the tire hits a little. The problem is 225 75 16 tires are just now coming to have a better choice to choose from.
The tirerack.com has good reviews from drivers that have or had the tires they review. The very worst tire rated, and has the most negative reviews is the GoodYear ST tires, and that can't be good. Hope my negative input helps. Oh by the way GoodYear has recently announced they have stopped making the ST tires. They will proberly just change tread a little, slap a new name and may well be equal to the ST tires, but the reputation is clean when you start out fresh. All vehicles need a cheap tire for the new Vehicles so it keeps the total price down.
Farout
Farout
Farout
Makes sense, thanks for the suggestion.
I live in Vancouver so it doesn't get to cold during the winters. Our problem over the past 3 weeks has been the wind and with it the power outages.