Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Also does the Europeian CRD have the same computer that controls EVERYTHING ? I am questioning this because I don't think the CRD's over there are experiencing the problems we do here. I am not convinced that our diesel fuel here ia much less in quality that that which you buy there. It is hard to for me to understand why there seems to be so many recalls and reflashes for this beast. I have never had a vehicle that I have had to return for all these things that DCX seems to feel are so important to redo. This does not make or build consumer confidence, at least from my view point. I really resent being a "test market" or as Dr. Z has said an "experiment" for DCX. That was really lame of him to make this statement in a press release. How often do you change your water/fuel filter? Does the filter fit in a canister or is it like the oil filter that we just screw on? Thanks for your information.
Farout
Should make towing more difficult this spring. Below 40 mph engine reves over 2500 when towing more like a gas engine to reduce torquw on the trans. Remember this engine produces all it's torque between 1800-2100 RPM then starts to drop off significantly.
Shift points appear to be the same as before when I had the torque converter, trans pump, coolers and valve body replaced last July.
So in my opinion: Normal use should not see much difference except a small decrease in fuel mileage.
However for owners that use their vehicle for towing. Less capable then before especially at speeds where the converter isn't locked.
It's the price you pay when proper planning and design doesn't occur before bring a product to market. Remember most of the european models had the 2.5l version less torque to the trans.
Had mine done and have had no priblems. Trailer has no noticeable effect. I have no drop off in torque at all. However I have no real long hauls to tote a TT up. I just don't think somethinh is right. zoomy2 hauls a TT but have not heard if he has noticed any loss yet.
Farout
Just to be sure that I not kicked off for being off topic: May 05 Liberty CRD, 26,000 miles, averaging around 20 mpg except on the road where I have seen as much as 25 mpg, EGR number six and TC number two, Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor 225-70R16, on the DCX Essential Care plan where my oil changes only cost me less than $25.00, ULSD just now coming to the Shell station at the corner.
I was supposed to pick the vehicle up the next day however around 4pm that day they said how about tomorrow they were having a problem with the TCM accepting the flash !
While I was there I had the Fuel filter replaced, opened the hood and found diesel all over the engine compartment. A little pool on the filter lip even under the intercooler hose on the otherside by the radiator. Guess they were just too lazy to wipe everything down. This dealership has been pretty good, I was surprized.
Thanks,
Jeff
However, like magic, a controller appeared in 2 days.
I have my Liberty back and I prefer how it shifts now compared to what I had before. I'm keeping it. It is crisper and since the shift point (for me) of the top lockup moved from 58 to 61 mph, I don't go in and out of it so much since the traffic here seems to stay below 60 but above 55. Before I'd be going in and out of top lock up practically once every mile on these crowded freeways.
I don't use a vice, I just clamp the filter fixation wings to the corner of a table with two joiner clamps and leave my waste oil pan closely underneath. The filter cartridge is a spin-on type like yours and it's very easy to grab and unscrew because you reach all around it. The recuperated fuel is later used for cleaning the tools and pan
Do we have the same computer here: yes.
Do we have the same problems here: yes.
Have europeans lost confidence in local cars: yes, they buy more asian cars now.
What would I buy next?
To replace my Jeep: I have no clue and no temptation besides the Wrangler four door CRD automatic (in 10 years from now!). To my opinion the Wrangler would have to feature the SelecTrac to give the same feeling as the Liberty plus chromed steel bumpers to frighten a few 'weardows'. I prefer to repair my Liberty rather than changing for something again more sophisticated.
To replace my little Toyota: another Toyota assembled in the EU.
How often do I replace the fuel filter? By default every two years or 45,000 miles as long as there is no water trapped in the bowl. But I regularly inspect the bowl with my flashlight illuminating from underneath. This is quite convenient.
He demonstrated the simplicity of removing the whole filter element, going to the bench and working freely. We can even stop and not stress to answer the phone
What the Tec did and leaving that mess is NOT GOOD. Fuel spilled all over like that is not good for some of the parts under the hood. Take it back, and show it to the Service Manager, and ask him or her, is it not right to expect this engine compartment to be returned as clean as it was when you brought it in! If it was not clean then ask then if the EPA allows fuel to be spilled all over the engine compartment That is a serious NO NO.
Farout
I wrote a LONG e-mail to customer assistance with a list of 8 things that are not up to par. Like the seals around the doors should like a wind storm and the front passengers window actually has such a gap in the seal you could not even light a match if your life was at stake. I got a lengthy e-mail back stating that they "were dismayed at the lack of quality" that I had brought to their attention. I am to hear from someone soon. I am not sure what soon is either. If anything happens I tell ya.
Farout
Thanks for your response..
jc7349
I thought there wasn't much change in torque, but I now think that the torque is down a bit, but I don't think it will effect pulling our 18'Zoom camping trailer. I would like to hook-up and do test tow but since the TT is wrapped in a large trap for winter it would be difficult. I will give feedback after I hook-up and do the first pull. :surprise:
Farout,
I definitely don't feel qualified to disagree with you, as you have done much more technical research on our CRD's than I have, but let me share my experience with my Chevy Duramax diesel.... GM recommends changing that filter every 15k miles (filter is of similar size, though designed differently). Jeep recommends every 25k, which makes sense considering the Duramax got about 17mpg and most of us get 22mpg with our CRD's (ie. more fuel passes thru the Duramax filter per mile, thus a shorter filter life). With every filter change, I could tell a difference in performance and in mileage. GM actually sent me a letter once offering me a FREE fuel filter replacement at the dealership. Why? These injectors are soooo expensive that it was cheaper to give everyone a free fuel filter than to replace even one injector under warranty on each truck. That drove home the message to me....I'm changing my filter on my CRD every 15k....to me, $37 is cheap insurance for my injectors (and I only have the 36k warranty). I'd hate to have to spend hundreds to replace an injector, when a $37 filter might have saved it. The light on the dash will tell you when you have water in the filter (which is easy to drain) but won't tell you how dirty the filter is.
Happy Motoring Everyone!
Twocycle2
Just be careful, by not getting the F37 DCX may not warranty the transmission when it fails. The engine may still make 295ft-lbs at 1800 RPM but something less at lower rpm. I know it falls off fast, but high torque at lower RPM is harder on the transmission internals then the same torque at high RPM. I think DCX should tell us, as the owners, where they changed and how much they changed the torque curves. After all we are test subjects. I don't think DCX has a transmission that will take the 2.8L Turbo Diesel, the 545RFE is as close as they had. Look at other diesels with manuals and the HP and torque specifications are lower then the automatics versions.
A manual transmission has a lot of emissions issues because of the greater variations of gearing and RPM as it is operator independent, funny this combination isn't available here. The automatic gear selection and the range of the engine's RPM can be controlled thus the emissions can be within the allowed EPA limits.
Well....DCX puts automatics in the Dodge PUs with the Cummins TD with 610 ft/lbs of torque and 325 HP.
"Look at other diesels with manuals and the HP and torque specifications are lower then the automatics versions."
The HP and torque specs for the Dodge/Cummins are the same for the manual and automatic transmissions.
Bruce
Farout
Totally to much for the labor !!!
The valve is plastic, but unscrews counter-clockwise. There is a rubber washer/gasket that makes the seal between the plastic valve and the metal filter. Yours may just be on really tight. I would loosen it from below....crawl underneath just behind the driver's side front tire, disconnect the electrical connector that is plugged into the valve, and then twist the valve counter clockwise. As soon at it breaks loose, tighten it back, then crawl back up top so you don't drain fuel on yourself. You should be able to reach your hand back down there to loosen the valve again. The water will drain out first, if there is any.
Good Luck!
Twocycle2
I think you are getting a better looking truck in NA. I have no paint on my fender extensions, military quality black tissue for my seat covers and a 'de-rated' engine according to VM brochure. LOL. I would have never thought that having something 'inferior' could make one feel so good.
What in the world is a "de-rated" engine? By the way after the f-37 was done I don't feel and difference..... yet!
I am sure others would agree with me that having someone who lives in Europe is really neat.
Farout
farout
I wasn't necessary referring to just 2007 models. The torque is 650lb-ft with the auto and 610lb-ft with the manual for '07. DCX just got a new transmission from Asian (Japan) to handle the torque with the 6.7L Cummins for 2007. This new transmission is to go head-to-head with the Allison from GM. There have been years that the torque was less on the same brand Diesel truck with an automatic then with the manual. I don't believe the 545 RFE was ever placed behind the Cummins, mostly 47 & 48 RE's. The 47RE were used from 1994 to 2002 and the 48RE 2003 to 2006. The 545RFE is used with the 4.7L and 5.7L Hemi's in different vechiles. The 2.8L at 1200RPM has about 155 ft-lbs ot torque, more then most gas engines have today at the same RPM. The 5.7L Hemi has about 100 ft-lbs at this RPM.
I was just trying to point out that in 2005 and 2006 which is the years the Liberty CRD was sold, DCX did in fact have automatic transmissions that would EASILY handle the torque of the CRD engine (the 48RE). They just chose not to design the vehicle for such a transmission and I believe they used a transmission that was not up to the job. Also, in 2005 and 2006, there was no difference in the specs for the Cummins engine that they put in the trucks with automatic transmissions and those with manual transmissions.
DCX just plain screwed up the Liberty CRD in their haste to get it out.
Ucanfarm.
My seats are easy to clean: a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth are all I need. I never use detergents inside the truck because when a fabric or even a plastic is exposed to sunlight it reacts according to it's degree of exposure (also called cross reticulation for polymers). I prefer to use a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water to get rid of mud stains. Try it on all plastic surfaces specially around the steering column and near your feet. You don't need to brush mud stains on plastic liners, just let them soak first and come back a little later. Once a stain has soaked, it no longer grips to the surface. De-Ionized water mixed with 30% alcohol is ideal for doing this. Steam cleaners do the same thing with more efficiency and no need to mix alcohol or detergent. I found this mixture most interesting for cleaning door liners. They are usually fully roasted near the window and never see the sun near the speakers.
love this diesel!!!!!!!
With only 11,000, or so, of these little babies made it would have been easy for DCX to have ignored us. I think DCX and my dealer has done an excellent job of looking after me.
You might be lucky enough to find one that has been totalled, and buy it from a salvage yard, but expect to pay high dollars for it. Hope you are able to get one.
farout
I'm not trying to defend DCX but maybe, just maybe, the 48RE was physically to large to fit into the Liberty chassis. This could have been what the engineers wanted but it wouldn't fit. Choice two, was the 545RFE.
I know when mines goes I am going to replace it with an aftermarket like B&M or some other brand, not an DCX unit. I pull a 4400 pound camper, so I too will watch the tranny closely. I do know people who have RAMs & Dakotas with the 545RFE transmission and of course a gas engine pulling 25'+ campers without tranny problems... much heavier load then the CRD can pull.
Nescosmo.
Not getting F-37'd and having transmission failure would be an interesting debacle. If Daimler-Chrysler couldn't show that the recall was without a penalty to a particular owner (such as one who tows lots), what would their case be for refusing warranty coverage? Need to review all that paperwork we signed, I suppose. But, just compensation should be part of the equation, it seems.
From everything I hear, fuel economy will tank when towing over 3k# after the service because of the substantially higher revs required :lemon: .
Other than that, it seems fine. No noticeable loss in power. If this board did not "focus" my attention so much, I probably would have thought the higher mph and rpm shifts to be my imagination.
I had the #4 glow plug replaced at the same time and now it takes longer to start. Yes, it is colder now, but it wasn't last week and the Jeep was still harder to start. Any pointers on this would be helpful. I use only 51 cetane ULSD or 51 cetane 500ppm, 2% biodiesel.
Reporting in,
Boiler
I'm coming back to this filter topic where you wrote:
"NOT TO BE USED IN ANY 2007 VEHICLE OPERATING ON ANY PUBLIC ROADWAY."
I pulled out my MANN paper air filter and observed it had swelled and grown a thick layer of residue after 10,000 miles. This paper filter media is not as good as I would have expected. Perhaps this explains why you are advised not to use it. The engine went into a slow degradation of it's performance, like hypothermia, and since I re installed my K&N it's as peppy as it was the first day. But it did block a lot of stuff out
The first time that I touch snow was when i was 40 years old and ever since has wander a few things from the winter peaple.
Every time that there is a winter storm and peaple get stranded for days in the house at such a low temp, always wander how the toilet flush at such low temp, how do you bath with that temp, do you save water or you drink melt snow, sorry! this sound stupid but to me these things are very ? when you are from the tropics.
Hope you are doing ok.
Nescosmo.
tidester, host
Nescosmo.
I was in college when the first .jpg pictures were posted and distributed around the world. That was weird. Now I take it for granted.
The fact that I am corresponding and taking advice from guys (and gals) from all points of the globe is truly a feat of humanity.
Caribou, Farout, et al... keep up the good work!
Boiler
First move the big vacuum hose out of the way (remove it from the brake booster and lay it aside.
Then remove the two fasteners holding the filter mount to the firewall. Then remove the three plugs for the sensors. You may only need to remove the one plug that actually attaches to the filter, but I like to get stuff that's easy to remove out of the way.
Now you can apply a filter strap wrench to unscrew the filter from the filter mount. Be careful. This thing is full diesel fuel. You will want to dump and dispose of the fuel in a proper manner.
Unscrew the and retain the fitting from the bottom of the filter. Do this over your drain pan since diesel fuel will drain from the hole on the bottom of the filter.
Use the fitting from the bottom of the old filter for the bottom of the new filter. Discard the fitting that came on the new filter. Spread a little oil on the ring seal at the top of the filter and reverse the removal steps to reassemble and fasten to the firewall.
Once you have everything back together, pump the hand pump on the filter mount until it starts to press hard. Holding a rag over the opening of the grey bleed valve, loosen the bleed valve. Retighten the bleed valve and redo the bleed procedure until there is no air spitting out of the bleed valve; all you will see coming out is fuel.
Start the engine, and check the filter assembly for leaks.
You have now saved yourself about $80 in labor at the dealer.
I remember back in the early 90's a friend was on some health bulletin board and he "diagnosed" tick fever in someone on the East coast. She had forgotten that she had vacationed in the Rocky Mountains several months before. Her docs back East had been scratching their heads.
Maybe one of these days we'll just argue about the cars and stuff online and leave the guns in the closet. :surprise:
Don't forget to mention "renegader" from the Czek Republic who drives a 2.5 Liter CRD manual, "fredl1" from South Africa and "actarus" from Italy.
- Did you know that I work where the 'world wide web' was born?
- Could you imagine that when an interesting question was brought up, someone out there could act as a relay and search for information? (different people, cultures and habits, but we all use credit cards...)
We live on a small planet today, and this can become tough for non-reactive car builders and all those who make profit by deforming or delaying reality. :shades: