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http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/sensorik/drucksensor.html
We are talking about the sensor on the left hand side of the picture. Mine was clogged, severely obstructed, almost solid :sick:
The sensor looks like a tiny flag fixed to a post coming out of the body. It's almost 1/8" high by 1/16" wide and sticks out 3/8" from the bottom of the chamber.
For those who don't have good sight, use a magnifying glass before attempting to clean. There is a 1/16" square solid plastic 'finger' protecting the sensor in the middle of the metering chamber. The sensor can bend laterally in the other directions under very light pressure. I used the pressure from a "3in1" aerosol to flush the debris once the sensor had soaked in white spirit.
I will come back at the end of the week/tank to report if any improvement. The engine seems a bit peppier :confuse:
For the first time, it actually died and required a restart. This is what I did before that.
1.) Engine block heater plugged in all night, in an attached, enclosed garage (11 F here last night).
2.) Warm engine at idle upon starting for 2-4 minutes.
3.) Back out of garage (10 feet)
4.) Travel to end of drive (approx 75 feet)
5.) Engine surges against breaks, rumbles (you can feel it push on the brakes and it dies like a tractor with the choke pulled out )and dies.
6.)Restart.
Any help, experience and ideas would be helpful. I will be calling the service garage today.
Boiler
Your block heater doesn't warm up the transmission fluid, it just allows the engine to run by injecting less fuel because it's 'ready'. The engine CPU measures the engine temperature in one hand and the transmission controller gets it's own info from the other hand. When it's cold here (-7C) my transmission tends to stick for a few seconds and I accelerate a bit more to start the slippage of the torque converter; I have an icy 25% ramp to get out of my back yard and this does the trick.
The new CRD GC has a 17-21 mpg rating, and by what I have read it is ok but not what I would say is worth at least $1,700. USD more over the cost of the 5.7 Hemi. Which has its added cost already.
It has been -12C here, (notice I put it in your temp) and the "Green Beast" starts right up. I let it run for about a minuet and then put it in R and wait for a few seconds and let the engine idle move the vehicle. This has been a very cold winter compared to the last ten years we have been here.
Thanks for the information!
Farout
I rarely idled my cars in Anchorage either; just drove out of the neighbor slowly (I used a cabin heater to clean the windows since I didn't have a garage when I lived up there).
Too much water in the diesel maybe?
The more I read the complaints, the more I feel that the service department at that particular dealership is to blame more than the Jeep itself. I put partial blame on Chrysler too for not doing more testing before bringing the CRD to this country.
You can clean the sensor easily. Just make sure you have enough light because there is a 20mm long M5 screw with a flat washer to hold the sensor against the manifold. This is very close to the firewall, meaning difficult to illuminate and to get your hands around the job.
First, disconnect the common rail and the boost sensors.
I used a normal 4mm hex key on it's long side to reach behind the wiring harness and the engine cover holding structure. A small tube or box wrench is a good way to twist the hex key. The screw is quite tight and "snaps" as it gets undone.
Once the screw gets freed from the thread, it can fall behind the engine if you don't pay attention and you won't find it anymore. The screw is made of stainless steel, so forget about the magnet to pick it up.
Remove the screw and washer before twisting the sensor to remove it.
Put the screw and washer on the sensor to put it back. Normally there is no problem to insert the sensor while holding the screw and washer with a finger.
Reconnect both sensors.
That's it. :shades:
A bunch of years ago, we put Amsoil ATF in an Eagle Premier. What a difference it made. Shifts were real smooth and quick at any temperature. I used it in my 1993 Dodge Dakota and the trans felt better too.
Boiler
I have 16.5K on my CRD and will be changing over to a straight synthetic trans fluid shortly.
My wife's 1998 Chrysler Concorde has the A604 and behaves in a similar manner for the first mile or two when it is fairly cold outside (stiff shift, sometimes will not shift). We have ATF+4 in there too so I am inclined to think that the fluid is the problem.
Oh one other thing that made a huge difference in my highway mileage, while not towing, was since the windshield is soo freakin straight up and down half the time at 70 I could not get my wipers to wipe anything, so with a full height bug shield it throws the wind up to the top of the window and I am pretty sure that I have been getting 1-1.5 mpg better mileage because of it. You could also find a runner and follow him to prevent speed tickets, which is a huge wind bonus usually bumping me 2mpg higher even if its a small car and their 5 lengths ahead..
I swear Jeep must not own a "wind tunnel", and prob have never heard of a little thing called aerodynamics... Shape the CRD like a Prius while keeping the 8 inches clearance and I can bet the CRD still blows it away MPG wise.. just my 2 cents there. Peace
The dealer had no record of the previous oil change so I couldnt get someone else to pay for it. Turns out the oil pan itself is $260 and the labor to install for a professional is 5 hours for a total of $800 from a dealer to replace. Also dont use the oversized plug because it just makes the whole bigger causing rips in the pan along the sides and will force you to replace the pan anyway after 2 more oil changes and the dealer will charge $30-40 to install not including Oil replacement. Only thing I might suggest in lue of Pan replacement is the universal rubber plug that you can install yourself with the twist of a wing nut using your hand lasting for at least 4 or 5 changes and only costs $2 with free labor.
Opinions?
If you did not buy a Service Warranty Contract then you are going to regret the day you didn't sooner than you think. If you had this would have been taken care of.
Farout
Thanks,
Skeeter
Thanks for the thoughts. I actually do need the capabilities of the CRD, except for the off-road part. I had an Xterra, before Hurricane Charlie decided to total it. It got horrible mileage. I then bought a Murano and it gets only 20 on the road and has little in the way of "truck" capabilities (great vehicle though).
If Chrysler/Benz will stick behind the CRD with fewer than 9000 in the USA (I am told) on the road, then the risk is lessened, for sure. I am due to take the CRD for a full day this week and put it through its paces. Stay tuned.
Pipe tape wont work when there are no threads inside to grab onto. I stuck my fingure in there and it felt smooth where there should be threads, so the only way it could have happened on the way out was if it was in too tight.
I picked it up cheap from autoparts warehouse on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110043475776&- ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001
I have been struggling with what I can tell you that might help and it's not much. One thing is that if the threads were clear on the drain plug it suggests that the plug was ove tightened and the threads were just pulled out of the pan. If aluminum was embedded in the threads and difficult to remove it suggests that the drain plug was badly seized in the pan and pulled out the threads when it was removed. In the first case the aluminum comes out of the plug threads easily. In the second case the aluminum in the threads is difficult to remove.
I would take the drain plug to some big parts stores and see what is available in plugs, oversized plugs, hellicoils, taps, etc. You might luck out and find just what you need.
Now for a honest confession, I made a big mistake yesterday! There are two fuel hoses next to each other, the Diesel and the Kerosine. Yep, you guessed it! I put 10 gallons of Kerosine in our diesel, that was a dumb mistake!
The Yark Dealership with the Tec that should be called Mr. CRD said to add lubercant to the fuel and it should be ok. The problem with kerosine is little lubercation can damage the fuel pump. The Tec said this happens a lot, but most of the time it's gasoline people put in by mistake, and that does do damage.
Also the filter for the booster sensor is just back of the air filter and NOT on the firewall as I was told by the DCX people.
The tec at Yark again told me NOT to go beyond 32,000 miles with out changing the water/fuel filter. He said the filter does more than just filter water. He said by the nature of diesel it had some junk in it and this filter catches this as well. Yark charges $76. to change this filter. Yark sold more CRD liberty's than anyone in the US, 20. That's not a huge amount of CRD's, but gives us a reason why so many tec's are lacking experience with these CRD's. The Tec stated that these V M Motori CRD's are mush better off if we do NOT use Cetane boosters or anti-gel, lubercating liquid additives. Honestly I don't know with every person who has worked on the CRD has a opinion, and they very seldom have the same advice.
Yesterday at 4F when I started the CRD is sounded like a gasoline engine with a broken rod beating against the block. So I think I will use the block heater when it's going to be that cold.
Farout
The Boost Pressure Solenoid Filter (looks like a small gasoline fuel filter) is on the passenger side behind the air filter assembly. Some of us have been calling it the Boost Control Filter.
The Boost Pressure Sensor (one that needs cleaning) is on the driver side on top of the intake manifold close to the firewall. Maybe this is where some of the confusion came from.
Good luck with your 50/50 mix of #2 and kerosene. I doubt you will do any permanent damage with one tank full if you add extra lubercant. My wife refuses to ever fuel up the CRD because she is afraid she might accidently put in gasoline some day. In your case maybe you should let the wife do it.
The 'gasoline like' filter of the passenger side sucks engine fumes every time the vanes of the turbo need to move. This filter is important to replace or check often because it will delay the response of the vacuum actuator (that allows fast change of the boost pressure). I would have tapped it directly into the air filter box, before the filter. This way it could sniff air from outside.
Domestic diesel is a little better than swill. It still has a significant amount of aromatic compounds in the mixture. These compounds contribute some energy to the fuel, but they burn more slowly, contribute to PM and NOx and their combustion product(s), PAHs are carcinogenic. In the EU, most of these aromatics have been removed in the refining process. CARB diesel also has fewer aromatic compounds in the fuel than does non-CARB diesel fuel. The use of biodiesel yields no PAHs or ever so little of them when used as fuel.
tidester, host
We had an appointment at the selling dealerships Service dept. They replaced all 4 doors rubber gaskets. It helped the back doors but the front doors were just as noisy as before. They ordered window gaskets for the two front windows. So we shall see.
The service writer whom we have been at odds with, gave me a drawing of this filter. The exact name is called "ELECTRIC TURBO MODULATOR FILTER". He gave me the full shop service manual drawing. That was impressive, but I think he expected me and my bride to kiss his hands! The filter was like new. This service writer is a snob right out of the "Know it all school". He also warned us that if we did not change the differentials fluid asap our warranty would be void! (this guy won't give up) My wife told him that schedule A did not even schedule any change of these fluids. But it does say to inspect the fluids at 62,250 miles. In schedule B only the two differentials get changed every 12,500 miles and the transfer case fluid gets cahnged at 62.500 miles. The service writer did not agree with the book!
Just as a note of confusion for all us CRD owners here is what Mr. Nicola Frabetti, V M Motori S.p.A. Service Dept. said about oil. I had asked him what weight oil to use by V M Motori. "on the owner's manual for European market it is recommended 10W-40 oil. Oils of the SAE5W-40 grade are preferred when minimum temperatures consistently fall below -10 C. Here attache you have a document that indicates which diesel can be used:" The nine pages state than no part of the engine or its attached parts will be under warranty if Bio fuel higher than B-5 is used. The pages go in to technical detail why any fuel above B-5 is not acceptable.
Is it any wonder that if the manufacturer of the engine and DCX can't agree, then how can we argue with a point when the Owners Manual and the Maintenance Logbook Schedule don't coincide service requirements?
I will stick with the Mobile 1 5-40W, but as for me no more 0-40W. at least it is an oil that splits the difference.
Anyone with suggestions of when to change the front and rear axle fluids?
Farout
"ELECTRIC TURBO MODULATOR FILTER" resembles the Refuge of the snail I once read on a menu to define a tossed salad
The differentials and transfer case have synthetic oil rated "for life". In practice a vehicle survives ~6 years before ending wrecked in a scrap yard. This number used to be 3 years in France and lead the auto industry to install unplated electrical contacts to save galvanic treatment costs. Cars became better, lasted longer and had many electrical problems. Customers went towards foreign builders that had not saved the extra cent.
My service technician told me to check for leaks on the ground and "smell" the oil when inspecting the level. It should never have an unpleasant smell (like fermentation). You see, the approach is quite different here and I gave this guy a few bottles of Champagne for his honesty.
“Boost Pressure Solenoid Filter” is in the owner’s manual while “Electric Turbo Modulator Filter” is in the shop manual. Scooby says, Huh? I think I prefer “Sipping” Boost Control Filter. The SBCF on my CRD looks pristine too.
I've been following this discussion for a while now. My 2006 CRD just had the F37 recall about 2 weeks ago.
Before the recall I got an intermittant "shudder" as I came off of an acceleration up to hiway speeds(above 60mph). The vehicle had been in twice for this problem before the recall. The first time they didn't even drive it, they just hooked the computer up and cleared "Error Codes" caused by the transmission. The second visit the stated could not duplicate. Funny it did it on the way home. The shudder got worse over time. The recall came and I had it done. Now I get intermittant hard shifting at the same area (60 MPH), reduced fuel economy, reduced power at highway speeds, the engine is louder than it was before, more smoking and it starts like a big diesel truck if it is cold outside (never did this before)(sounds like the little CRD is going to come apart for about the first 10 to 15 seconds). Anyway it is going back on Friday. The dealer agrees that they may have messed something up. My wife normally drives this vehicle and she notices these problems. I drive it rarely so I really notice if there is a change in the vehicles behavior. We sat down and made seperate lists of what we noticed about the vehicle after the recall and both of us had almost identical lists. She fuels it up so her list included the fuel economy drop.
I also had a problem with the tilt steering recently. You know how you tend to settle into the seat over a drive and pull yourself up. I placed a small amount of force on the steering wheel to pull myself up and the steering wheel dropped to the lowest setting. I thought maybe the tension lever may have been loose so I tried it again but it was tight and the wheel drops without much effort. Very dangerous. The wheel will wobble when it drops. Don't get caught off guard!
Nescosmo...