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I think the presumption is that you're muddy or wet feet make moisture and dry air coming out on the floor will fog the windows less.
AC cycles on Defrost settings as well.
Nescosmo.
Something funny struck me late last night. If you go on the Amsoil website and look at the recommended products, the European Blend 5W-40 is the recommended oil for the CRD by Amsoil, not the 5W-30 that you are using.
I checked my RPM's today...it really depends on when the CRD wants to change into high gear, but when it does it is....1750-1800 rpm at 55,60 & 62 mph......1850 rpm at 65 mph !!! that is in high gear plus i think they call it "lock-up" ??
Perhaps you need to talk to a higher up person at ISG? We really like the COMPASS! 25.1 mpg and it's so smooth. We have been treated very well, and we are blessed. Let us know how it turns out.
farout
Nescosmo.
I have a 2005 and the best I have gotten is 23mpg. Most fillups are 15 gallons or more traveling 300 to 330 miles. last fill up it took 15.7 gallons and I traveled 321 miles. This is the usual 20 to 22 mpg. Mostly highway driving with the cruise control set around 73mph at 2200rpm.
I wouldn't think you would have any problems pulling the Casita and doubt you would see any difference in RPM.
I'm still getting just over 20 mpg at 56-57 in 4th gear and around 16-17 in 5th at 65, I can live with this.
Zoomy
Farout
Have they reassembled your old CRD yet? They may not, and DCX may truck it to some place else to go to the auction. Ours went somewhere here in Missouri, and then to the auction. I won't ever own a diesel again. The US is geared to gasoline, and to brake out of the main stream into another type fuel is costly for the first buyers. I have resd DCX is only sending out a few CRD GC as there has been some issues that needed more work out time. I sure hope the ones that have good Liberty CRD's last well. I wish were one of that group.
farout
Sory to here about your case but my CRD works great. I use to put Chevron fuel and it used to run bad but ever since i put Sunnoco fuel, it run so smooth. Now all i do is clean the map sensor every 1k and bled the air out; Let me tell you it never been so good. I think that the ULSD fuel took care of the EGR valve issue, now it don't smoke only sometime when i clear it nose. Well i hope you are happy and please do not fade away. -YOU KNOW WE LOVE LOVE YOU-
Nescosmo.
hamchamp
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
My CRD developed a ticky lifter using Mobil 1 5W40 that went away when I switched to Rotella 5W40 and has not returned. But, that may have been a random event that had nothing to do with the brand of oil. The main reason I switched to Rotella was price, availability and good enough.
Engine oil temp = 170 F
Transmission oil temp = 135 F
Differential temp = 125 F
After another 149 miles at 65 mph temp 84 F at stop:
Engine oil temp = 170 F
Transmission oil temp = 155 F
Differential temp = 140 F
When you measure temperatures with an IR thermometer, be aware that two different materials (surfaces) will not give you the same proportional readings. You may have to put a spot of black matt paint (or IR reflective paint) where you take your measurement. All this to say the aluminium casting could be warmer than what you measured.
My 06 CRD is due for the 30000 mile service. My questions are, 1. what has to be done and 2. must it be done by a dealership? This is the first car I've purchased new so I don't have any experience around this. Also, is there service that must be done to keep the warranty from being voided?
thanks in advance for any responses.
Craig
You do not need to go to the dealer for any servicing, unless you really want to. As long as the garage you use is reputable and warranties their work, that should be fine. Just be sure you keep your receipts in case there are issues later on.
The differential temperature should be proportional to the effort and time.
I once drove from Spain to Switzerland (~500 miles) at a steady 80 mph. The original rear tires lost 30% of their rubber that day, but the engine and transmission seemed to enjoy it :shades:
I've had 97,000 KM of pure pleasure so far.
For a given displacement, modern engines are roughly 3 times more powerful than those you refer to. The counterpart to this will be more delicate care needed to preserve their performance.
The data seems to indicate that the differential temperature is proportional to effort and ambient temperature in this instance. Time is more important when the effort exceeds the ability of the housing to dissipate heat.
Usually, if you can't keep your hand near a differential (or gearbox) after a few hours of 'normal' running, you need to revisit the viscosity approach: either the oil film covering the gear teeth contact surfaces allows metal to metal friction or the lubricant is too thick (high viscosity). Our new high contact pressure multi grade synthetic oils make wonders here as long as you don't need the full effect of the differential locking mechanism when you have one. High contact pressure oil will fight against the mechanical parts needing to match under a fixed spring pressure.
Here is a puzzler for you Caribou1 or anyone else:
Initial tire pressures in all 4 tires were equal as possible without parallax. At the first stop, the tire temperatures were: RR=80, LR=85, LF=95 and RF=90 - rounded a bit. :surprise: Took multiple readings around the tires to eliminate surface variation which was minimal.
I have an answer, you first.
After all of this time by little CRD is letting me down. I love the little guy but it's now in the shop for the second time in 30 days.
The first time it was in for two weeks as they replaced the ball joints and waited on parts to completely rebuild the trans.
After driving it for a few weeks I have gotten a wicked shudder that many in here have complained about. Now I know what you were all talking about. With only 15,700 on an 2006 I never thought I would have these kind of issues, after all this was my first new vehicle ever purchased.
The engine is strong, love the torque and fuel economy, but what they did with the transmissions and butting everything up leaves some to the imagination.
So I get to thinking and seeing what so many in here have gone through considering we are only a small few who post here. What will this truck be like in 3 years without a warranty? So I called Chrysler yesterday to be on record. I have the Lemon Law sheet for my state printed out so all I really need to do is fill it out should this problem re occur. I just figured I would vent just a bit as this is one of the few groups of people that actually share in the passion of a little diesel.
I'm still having CCV problems. My hose from the turbo to the CAC is oily on the outside... Some food for thought! My XJ has a tiny orfice in the CCV system for blow-by gassed to pass through, I am thinking that the diesel has way too much flow and that the flow is pulling the oil through before it can settle out. Comments ???
Thanks! LK
My first guess is that the front tires carry a heavier load and you made more right turns than left.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I think free open minded discussions can help understanding. Have you experienced professional "brain storming"? Participants often discover new fields of interest, during their paid working hours. This gives them time to listen, like this forum in a certain way.
Here are my thoughts about your question:
I logged my tire wear during 35,000 miles to understand how the BFGs would behave. Every 5,000 miles I rotated the five wheels and identified them on a spreadsheet. The same applies for brake wear; it only takes a few minutes once the wheel is off.
What did I notice?
- My LR always had more wear than the 3 others that were in use. This makes me think the left side of the truck could slightly be out of balance due to the weight of the driver.
When the roads are slippery, in 2WD my truck mainly spins on itself in the counter clockwise direction. The RR wheel should thus be more relaxed than the LR that's initiating the CCW twist. This could also be an explanation to more wear and heat on the LR wheel. This also occurs in right hand curves at 50 mph and more. The truck behaves like a crab on rainy days
The front wheels stand by the heat of the engine compartment. In addition to that, the engine and driver shift the center of gravity to the front. On a normal road in 2WD at stable speed, friction driven front wheels should accumulate more heat than the rear wheels that have better contact with the pavement.
Usually air pressure will increase due to the amplitude of tire deformation / load being too important. If I remember correctly the specs, we should have 60% of the weight up front. This could also explain your situation.
My tires have a load index of 107 (min value). I've not been able to detect different pressures, but they do ride harder than the original.