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Comments
My CRD is baaaaaaack in the dealer with a problem where it intermittently will not shift into reverse. Dealer cannot seem to replicate the problem, but I can't blame them as it is very hard to deal with intermittent issues. Had TSB done with new kind of tranny filter that has lower flow resistance but to no avail. Anyone else had a similar issue? Is it the transmission pump they didn't replace on my F37 that is the culprit or does anyone think it might be a solenoid?
Thank you.
The Liberty CRD appeals to me on a gas mileage basis and a towing basis. I would use the thing for 4 wheeling and for towing a 6x12 cargo trailer and getting better than the 10 mpg I get now. BUT, I've never yet had a problem on the road and the Liberty CRD is scaring me a bit in this way. Seems that they made only what 11,000 of them and there are a lot of reported problems and buybacks in here... And now Jeep has dropped the vehicle from production. I'm just not sure I could 'trust' it. Still thinking about it though. I dont know if CA will allow the JGC diesels in here either. I am sick to death of <15 mpg and $3.65 gas though. Sick sick sick.
If you drive a typical 15,000 miles a year you would save $3,650 every year in gasoline ($304 per month) by going to a 30 mpg Civic. A hybrid would do even better still. The gas savings alone would cover most of the car payment, and the current 4x4 will last longer since it has fewer miles.
Just food for thought.
I am looking forward to the new crop of diesels coming in the next few years.
Nescosmo.
Now can this damage my engine or is ok.
Nescosmo.
5-10% regular gasoline mixed with diesel won't hurt. This used to be the winter "mix" here.
After doing the ORM, how does your tranny behave? Can you easily play with the shifting just using the throttle pedal?
Mine is now close to 60,000 miles. I'm thinking of resetting the mileage to '000000'. It works like new and never needed any repair.
I tried clicking on the boost sensor link you had supplied earlier when discussing this with Farout. The link does not take me to a page anymore. You don't happen to know where this diagram can be found now do you?
Thank you,
Butch
Thank you,
Skeeter
Could you please point me towards the defective link? I haven't changed any of my web directories...
I hope you can finally enjoy your truck as we do over here.
If the ulsd has no smell, then Sunnoco is ulsd and wally world is not. They said in the pump that it is 15 ppm but the diesel smell is very pronounce.
The ORM is great, the tranny is very smooth between 50 and 55 the tranny used to jump back and forth you could see it at the rpm meter but now it stay at one speed all the time.
When it goes to over drive at 58 or so it fill like it goes in to a silk is so smooth that you think there is on neutral.
If back in 05 we would it known about the ORM, Farout would still have his CRD.
Nescosmo.
This is also why I never re connected my EGR valve :surprise:
The problems Farout faced seem to be related to the "learning period" of his dealership(s). But if he's happy now with the Compass and the consideration DC gave him after all the worries he went through, well...
http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/start/sensorik/drucksensor.html
At one time someone posted a diagram of the boost sensor right in their message, but I can't find that anymore. I have been fortunate in that my 05 CRD has 40K and is running terrific - I love it! However, based on what I have read, there will be a day that I need to be prepared to clean the boost sensor and I want to know exactly where it is and how to do it. Thank you! Butchman
When you take the heater off 99% of the time the shutter goes away and the air issue will go away, some times the heater will heat too much even when the sensor tell it not to and problem happen without you knowing; Take a ride with the heater plug in and stop and touch your filter if the filter is too hot, it means that you are starting having problems. Now that is summer go and plug it off you wll fill the diffence it will run better with no issue at all.
Nescosmo...
Here is a well detailed link:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/liberty/mapsensor.htm
Esperanto was invented for people to share a common language; now we have web forums
Normally the reference temperature sensor is the one located under the battery. There is a small two wire connector coming from under the battery. If this contact breaks open, you could simulate 'out of range' temperatures! I was thinking of installing this sensor against the firewall. On cold starts, the firewall is also cold. Once the engine warms up it's compartment, it can read a warmer temperature and we should get better mileage as well.
I have never been one to do the computer forum thing, but I decided to check it out, look around and ask for help and advice. When I found this page, then I knew I had a lot of reading to do, and since I am in the boonies on dial up it takes forever to load the pages. So now I willask for quick help while I in the meantime spend many hours reading the previous forums.
My 2006 Jeep Diesel hasn't run right since new, and I have been getting the run around for the past year.
It seems they really don't even know what kind of engine it really is, and they dont' know how to fix it, and customer service tells me there is nothing wrong, that all Jeep diesels have an inherent Characteristic vibration.
What it does, (NOT VIBRATE), is that it for lack of a better word bucks kind of jerks. IT happens at different speeds, can't be reproduced, but it happens almost every day. It can happen in one of two major ways, one is very subtle and unless you drive it all the time you probably wouldn't even know it is happening, but I know it does it, because it does it even on fresh even pavement with the cruise on. It almost feels like somebody is just lightly touching the brake as I am driving.
The other times this happens it goes into violent convulsions.
And it also happens more often at a in between, moderate level.
When it runs good, it is great, and I love driving it. And while it is a nuisance and aggravating inconvenience, it is absolutely unsafe at high speed on a freeway with a semi on my tail. That has happened a few times, and when I just start slowing down for no apparent reason, and because I am not braking they don't know I am having trouble, the truckers are not such a nice breed then.
So now, I will take the short cut and ask for opinions and advice while I take a few days to read through back files.
The service manager thinks it is the torque converter, and a computer issue. Does that ring a bell with anybody?
And what is this ORM? hope i have that right, what is that for?
I initially thought it was the tranny, but now have been told it might be the engine, and to watch for any engine lights to come on, because it might just stall out. That really is not very reassuring at this point.
Thanks everybody,
Chester
The first thing that comes to mind is air in the fuel system. Make sure that all of connections at the fuel filter/water separator are snug. Next pump the pump on the fuel filter twenty times to make sure all air is purged from the system. Drive it and see if it is any better. I had to do this with my own 2005 CRD a few times before it behaved well.
First You have to replace your fuel filter and make sure that you do it right. then you have to bleed the fuel filter ounce a month for the shudder that you been having goes away.
second: you have to clean the Map sensor so your CRD will run smooth, then make sure that your ccv. is not contaminating the cat hoses and last do the ORM which consist of unplugging the Maf sensor that is on the air filter. What this do is deactivate the EGR valve and also let the Air control valve to be open at all time giving the engine fresh air at all time. This keep the oil clean (no soot)and there will be no smoke when you clean it nose.
Also my CRD had the problem that the fuel heater for no reason was on at all time i turn the heater off and that help in keeping the CRD without the shuddering and keep low air in the fuel. Well that is all i can tell you for know.
Hope it help.
Nescosmo.
I agree with you over most of the issues:
- The EGR components play an important role in the synchronization of the gearbox + torque converter. Adopting ORM also gave me total satisfaction
- The ball joints recall was not due to a severe deficiency of PTFE lining. The ball joints that were replaced on my truck were rather well built. There is no need to panic when you detect play on the front wheels. Just keep an eye on the evolution of the play. If there is an accidental metal to metal hammering sound coming from the front suspensions, then stop immediately.
- My mileage is clearly temperature dependant. Replacement filters gave me even values over long periods of time. We must always consider weather conditions, and a season lasts only 3 months! In my case, I have 20% variation between summer and winter for the same driving conditions (10-12 L/100Km).
- Rear brakes moan, especially after it rained. Mine still moan and perform as new. They're almost human.
By the way, pollution is not always what you see floating above the water
MSG, USA, RET
Asked to see the failed part, but they had already packed it for shipping back to DC. Service manager told me the valve was stuck in the closed position and that DC had a redesigned EGR valve from the one that was replaced a year ago and had issued another TSB. He also said there were several customers that have had their EGRs replaced 4 and 5 times. It also appeared the EGR might be covered with "hidden warranty" after the OEM warranty expires because of all of the problems with the EGR. Hope this latest EGR design proves out. We really like the CRD. We are getting 22mpg in town and on last road trip 26 to 28 mpg
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
Tranny has never been an issue for me i do not abuse it at all and for that it has given me a good service.
The air box configuration that they all talk about i think the CRD will starve for air; with all the rain that i have seen here, the filter never been with water
We have a perpetual summer and because that, i was thinking of using 15W-40 syn oil. I do use it on my Sprinter and for that my cooling hoses stay allways clean, so the engine do not clatter as much as the CRD with the 5W-40 oil.
I know that in your land they use mostly 10W-40 for diesel, also i know the VM motori recommend 10W-40 for the 04 and under. So what do you think? Would it harm the engine or would it make it run stronger on the Florida summer.
Will like all comments.
Nescosmo.
Do you know if they did any re-programming of the PCM also?
With mine disconnected the off idle lag is gone, but it would be nice to have it stock.
Tires are important when it rains, but no tire can grip on the oily film that forms when it just starts to rain.
To give you an idea, when I was involved in racing there was a difference of 1.5 second per mile between each type of tire on dry road (slick, grooved 1/8" and rain 1/2"). They were called SB5, TB5 and PB5 made by Michelin. This is to say that the density or presence of the "full rubber" touching the road plays little role in normal traffic. A wet road when freed of it's hydrocarbon residues will give good adhesion to most tires that have enough thread to laterally evacuate the excess water.
Concerning oil, there are different approaches:
- When you need to hurry with a cold engine, choose 5W-40
- When you have time, choose 10W-40
- If you're a purist, SAE HD-40W will bring back memories and worries.
I've used Yacco 5W40, Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 plus the original oil. I've seen no difference. In your case I would use 15W-40 without worry. You may have to cross check the pressure drop of your oil filter when the oil is cold. This could "push open" the release valve if your oil is too viscous when cold.
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
When i start my engine i run the CRD below 30 until it gets to normal temp. after that is normal driving.
The reason i want 15W-40 is because the blow by, at 15W-40 is minimal and clatter is low -it sound like a diesel- i know i drive an Sprinter with a 5 cylinder 2.7 mb engine.
I still have an old 1/4 can of Synclair HD 40W oil -on the metal can-, the one that you need to have the special opener to put the oil in the engine. I treasure it .
In fairness to many others who have has no problems, and the CRd has been a great experience, the majority of the 11,000 CRD's in the US seen to be good ones.
Sadly we had one that had many defects. We got a Jeep Compass 4X4 for our replacement. It's a good vehicle, and has more useable room and gets what the CRD should have in mpg.
Hope this helps, let us know.
farout