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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1.... The Bridgestone, the Uniroyal and the Pirelli Scorpion ATR design are all the same or look the same. Wander if the companies have something to do with each others.

    Nescosmo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo, most tires look alike nowadays because there are less than ten software packages that can simulate finite elements.
    Young engineers learn from known "reliable" academic sources so their initial developments often look alike. I rely more on specific user input than publicity.
    The major difference between makes today is the nature of additives incorporated in the bulk rubber. I chose the BFG because I wanted to "push the limits of boredom" ;)

    My next set of tires will be exactly the same; you can't imagine how life becomes simple when you forget about pot holes, nails, foot high granite sidewalk edges, and whatever doesn't come to my mind :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Nescosmo,

    I changed the tires on my Liberty at 111 miles old to Bridgestone Alenza tires. I have nearly 24K miles on my CRD and I have been more than satisfied with them. They provide very good wet control even when there is tons of water on the road. They also worked reasonable well in snow and ice this past winter. Another brand to consider is Yokohama G051 tires. Had a set of these on my pickup and was quite pleased with them.

    I would suggest purchasing your tires on line at either tire rack or tires-easy.com. As to Goodyear tires, I avoid them like the plague. They have always given me problems and I have found their performance to be less than gratifying under most conditions and damn near dangerous in wet conditions. Michelin tires are generally allergic to water once they are more than one third worn.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Winter... The Alenza is more expensive that the Revo but the Alenza has bad review. I was thinking about the BFG like Caribou but i am among the Bridgestone Dueler Revo,Pirelli Scorpion ATR and the BFGoodrich long trail. The Michelin LTX M/S have good reviews. If i buy the tires on line it will cost me more than locally.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Where did you see the bad review(s)?
  • gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    Same problem. 2005 CRD 26,000 miles. Warm engine (after 1 -5 hrs at highway speed), under load (passing truck or uphill), at altitude (~ 3000 feet in Oregon cascades) - sudden loss of power, car slows from 60 down to 30 or 40, with no response to throttle. Stop, shut it off, runs fine for a while, then sudden loss of power. This happened three times, then not again for a month. Dealer checked for codes and low fluids - no problems. Happened again the next day. Is this a wiring harness (which one)? the power control module? the fuel filter or water separator? air in fuel line? Never had this problem before the torque convertor recall service was performed.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Look for a post I made in July 2006 about a somewhat similar problem I had after descending a long highway pass in the Colorado rockies (peak altitude around 11,000') one night in June. Extreme loss of power - unable to go more than 25mph, and that with an extremely long accelerating time. The problem went away the next day, and stayed away with some fuel supplement in the tank. I never figured out exactly what caused it - I still suspect fuel gelling from the temperature and altitude I was at and having a tank full of summer-weight fuel purchased at lower altitudes, but many posters suspected a computer problem. The problem has not recurred for me since - all my other driving is in flat land between 500' and 2000' altitude.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Sounds like one of your electrical harness es were damaged when they removed the trans for the torque converter recall. You are loosing the TPS signal. Either the ground or signal is dropping out. When you turn the engine off the system is being reset. Getting them to fix this will be very frustrating. They will not want to spend the time to find the source. If you really like the Jeep have them replace the electrical harness that is associated with the TPS. Don't let the same mechanic who did the torque converter recall touch the vehicle. If he is not very careful replacing the harness your problems can multiply. Also call Jeep's customer service and complain about your issue.

    Good luck
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I also had this problem once. In my case it was the fuel filter gasket that had a slight leak. I had to stop a few minutes after a 500 meters climb. In those days fuel tanks didn't have breather valves (vents) built into the filling caps.
    On the CRD there are two hoses, a valve in the filter housing plus the upper gasket of the filter to look after. By two hoses I mean the suction coming from the tank to the filter and the filter to pump hose.
    If your heating element remains ON, this can "help" forming a vapor lock. In this case there are no traces of fuel visible from outside. If you prime the fuel line, you will not detect this either.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Gomanp... It could be your fuel filter gasket or it could be your map sensor, because it happen when your are climbing and or at high altitude. Map sensor control that. Clean your sensor and see what happen.

    Nescosmo.....
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Nescosmo,
    We also have a barometric pressure sensor built into the ECU. This compensates altitude changes. Has anyone noticed how "linear" this engine pulls while going up to 10,000 feet?

    Just look here, page 4:
    http://www.mstbw.de/imperia/md/content/mstbw/bestpractice/bosch_mems_12_micromac- hine_symposium_ernst.pdf
  • gormanpgormanp Member Posts: 9
    Thanks. Never heard of a Map sensor. What is it, where is it located?
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Caribou, other than the one problem I had, the CRD worked wonderfully in mountains on roads as high as 12,000ft (once on I-70 at the Loveland Pass, the other time in Rocky Mountain National Park on the road that goes through the park - I think it's called Trail Ridge Road). Power, other than the one incident, was great. However, brakes and handling that are fine for my flatland driving started being just adequate, not fully confidence inspiring, in mountains. I should note that I had made a very similar trip the year before in my Honda Civic HYBRID and it had worked far better than I ever would have expected it too. Obviously there is some apples to oranges there.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Gormanp...The best way I know is:
    go to www.lostkjs.com then press forum go to the section of the CRD that said: Liberty CRD love that torque.
    then go to the section that said, Faq's on the CRD go down to: What is a Air Intake Temp Sensor. and there will show you picture and direction of what to do. If you have any ??? let me know there are others places for you to look.
    On our forum, there are places that show you the samething but I do not know how to find it. You will have to ask the Sysop to help you.

    Nescosmo.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Caribou1... I didn't know that the ECU was so complex in nature the new mems that is coming up is very small. To be able to fix an automobile seems to me that failure will be more on the electronic that anything else. The cars should be simpler because modernization but to accomplish safety, economy and electronic comfort, suphistication come with a price.

    Nescosmo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi, when driving downhill over long periods I only use my brakes to reduce speed on straight portions of the road. I keep the 4WD Full-Time and engine revs below 2000 when possible. As soon as my engine goes above 2000, it looses braking efficiency. Remember this little truck is heavy ;)
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    I didn't have any actual brake fade, I just didn't find it as confidence inspiring as I would have liked, especially in the handling department. Have you driven in the Alps? The roads I was on are likely similar to roads in the Alps, and far more difficult than what you'd find in smaller mountains. Trail Ridge Road can be navigated by most vehicles (unfortunately including RVs) but more than half the people on it are basically ignorant of how dangerous they're being (tailgating downhill as you go into switchbacks, etc.) and how much of a chance they have of plunging several thousand feet if their luck doesn't hold. Anyway, this isn't meant as a slam on the CRD, just a comment on my experience. Had I been doing any offroading, at sensible speeds, I think it would have worked great.

    My tires could also have been an issue - I have kept the stock Goodyears that so many people have disparaged. I find them adequate for my regular use, but when they wear out (and at 31,000 miles that isn't far away) I will definitely be buying something different to replace them.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi, I live in the Alps.
    The worst places I've been are where there is no line in the middle of a narrow road, where erosion breaks the asphalt along what should be the edge of the cliff, add fallen leaves or gravel left on the road from last winter, 'traces' of cattle going to the barn twice a day and you will find that city traffic becomes quite relaxing :shades:
    Over here most roads are winding, busy and usually not very steep because of winter. You have steeper and much longer straight inclines in America that are often the cause of more spectacular accidents during winter.
    The CRD handles well where others struggle but it looses interest where others excel ;)
  • bobo10bobo10 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am having the same problem with the reservoir solenoid (#1140)on my 05 Liberty. Any suggestions?
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    "Zachinmi, I live in the Alps."

    :surprise:

    At least I knew you were in France! Obviously you must have about 100 times more mountain driving experience (both in general and with the CRD) than I do.

    If I keep my CRD - which is looking slightly more likely as I go more weeks since my last warranty repair - I will definitely be getting better tires on it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi,
    For choosing the proper tires I think different situations call for different choices:
    - sharp rocks => an overall tougher tire construction,
    - rocky inclines => a harder and longer lasting rubber,
    - mud => an 'open groove' for easy evacuation,
    - sand => larger footprints to distribute the weight,
    - snow => high inflation pressure and thin tires,
    - ice => soft rubber and thin deep grooves or spikes,
    - grass => lateral grip, typically like the BFG T/A,
    - against perforation => higher load index,
    - rain => soft rubber with deep and wide grooves,
    - perfect dry road => slicks :shades:

    My original tires were different from the ones you get. They were called Goodyear Wrangler S4.
    I found them OK for:
    - snow, ice, rain and sand,
    acceptable for:
    - perfect dry road (they melted in one day at 85 mph!)
    miserable for:
    - perforation, rocks, mud, grass,
    dangerous for:
    - rocky inclines.

    To compare with my actual BFG T/A, I would say:
    they are OK for:
    - sharp rocks, rocky inclines, perforation, perfect dry road ,
    acceptable for:
    - mud, sand, snow, grass,
    miserable for:
    - rain,
    dangerous for:
    - ice.

    I have the impression I just described the S4 as a perfect all-year city tire :sick:
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Member Posts: 33
    Recently changed my fuel filter. Never seem to get the air out of the fuel filter so changed the Heater / water separator housing assembly. Listen to this. Primed the new filter assembly with clean fuel and started it. Unplugged the line coming from the tank and got ZERO fuel pressure :confuse: . The truck has been running on a vacuum pump system. Any body else have similar problems? Taking it to the dealer as soon as I get the truck cleaned up from the miscellaneous items that collect in the jeep.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    That is the way it work there is nothing wrong.

    Nescosmo.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    The solenoid is grounded or open, check it out...

    Nescosmo...
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I changed the fuel filter in my CRD about two weeks ago. Took about forty-five minutes. Once reassembled., I primed the filter using the pump on top of the filter holder. I started my CRD, checked for leaks and it has been fine. No air in the system either. How many times did you pump the pump? Also, did you allow the pump to move it's full length and did you pump slowly when priming the new filter?

    The old filter was pretty dirty. Did not find any water or sludge in the fuel when I pulled the water sensor from the bottom of the filter. The sensor was also clean.
  • arvmanarvman Member Posts: 95
    Did you get the filter from the dealer?The mopar part here is 255 dollars.Is there an aftermarket filter available cheaper?Thanks,arvman...
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    A replacement fuel filter is available through WIX. Any parts store that carries Wix filters can get them. I just got one for $30. It was an exact replacement. The dealer wants almost $50.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Could you please post the part#?
    This is the first I have heard that an aftermarket fuel filter is available.
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Wix 33647
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Got my filter at NAPA for $29.99 plus tax. It is a rebadged WIX filter 3674. Dealer wanted about $50 for the filter and over $200 for the water separater.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    It is a complete assembly. I paid around $84 from the dealer but the cost has come down.
    Your dealer is really trying to take you to the cleaners.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Thanks
  • saiteksaitek Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum, but I could use a little advise. My 2006 CRD runs 30 secs, then quits and won't start.I believe it was winter1 who had a similer problem, but I could not find the post that says what he did to fix it. Also is there a method to retieve codes from a 2006 model on the odometer? Tried on/off three times - nothing. Had it towed to dealer - useless.
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Member Posts: 16
    We had the f-37 recall done and the dealer had a real time
    of it. Long and short they got it going.. However, about
    two weeks later my wife used her key to start the vehicle
    and it ran 30 sec and wouldn't start after that. Towed it
    to the dealer and they accused me of having another key
    cut which didn't have the security code. Told them I hadn't had one cut and it was my wife's key. They had
    to reprogram her key into the system too. So a word to
    all check that both keys work when a reprogram is done.
    Hope this helped.... Brian
  • diesel_farmerdiesel_farmer Member Posts: 32
    At 58,000 miles I just replaced the original Goodyear ST's. I rotated them every 6000 miles and have the 5 year unlimited alignment contract with Tire Kingdom/NTB so they did an alignment at every tire rotation.

    I replaced the Goodyear 225/75-16 ST's with Goodyear 245/70-16 Fortera TripleTred's. I do a lot of highway driving, and was able to try them out in a severe thunderstorm the day I had them put on...they handled the severe rainstorm great and make the CRD feel and drive like a brand new vehicle. Living in the snowbelt of Pa., I am sure they will come in handy this winter.

    http://www.goodyearfortera.com/tripletred/index.html
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Saitek,

    Welcome to the forum.

    To retrieve the codes, you need to turn the ignition off-on four times. Sometimes it takes several seconds for codes to appear on the odometer.

    As to the problem you mention, I had to have a software update at 683 miles that corrected a drivability issue. Recently I had a load of bad fuel that caused my CRD not to run at all, code 1093, I think.

    Sounds like you have a fuel flow restriction or else there is some air in the injection system. Try pumping the priming pump twenty times slowly making sure the piston makes full excursion each time. If you have any air in the system, this will push it out. Make sure all of the fuel system clamps are snug too.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Diesel Farmer, I think you got more miles out of the stock tires than anyone else. Congrats! Mine are at 31,500 and I expect to be replacing them before 35,000. I don't consider myself hard on tires, and I usually get lengthy tread wear out of tires. (For instance, on the 2001 Honda Accord I used to own, the tires were still just fine - enough tread above the legal requirement to not raise any worries - at 60,000 miles when I traded the car.)

    You probably also have more miles on a CRD than most of us. Any comments on how it's been running, especially after you passed the 36,000 mile warranty eclipse?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi, I have to correct my opinion about the BFG T/A:
    - I put 42,000 miles on them and there is a bit over 1/4" thread left. This is nice for mileage.

    Yesterday I rotated them and found that a large fastener went right through the tire :(
    The sidewalls are bullet proof, but not the profile.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Diesel farmer, can you still use chains with 245/70-16 tires?

    I just got my tire repaired. The fastener that punctured it was a 3/4" long self drilling metal screw. The mesh inside the rubber was not damaged :blush::blush::blush: , and the technician had a real hard time to drill and mill inside the tire for installing the rubber insert.
    Nice job :shades: Costs me 32 Euros plus tip, about 50 USD :sick:
  • saiteksaitek Member Posts: 2
    Thankyou to mrmag00 and winter2 for responding to my post. It turned out to be a loose fuel filter allowing air into fuel circuit. The fuel filter was serviced by Chrysler but the warranty does not cover poor workmanship.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Glad it was a simple problem. You need to shoot the tech who screwed up.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds a bit familiar (link). First flat I've gotten in 2+ years.

    Around here the tire shops give you an invoice for $11 USD and then mark it "complimentary."
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    sounds like the egr valve problem has gone away anybody still having problems
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Synlubes, I think those who have not yet disconnected their emissions control system went to a different thread:
    "Jeep Liberty Diesel EGR issues" ;)
  • randy_rayrandy_ray Member Posts: 9
    Hogwash... workmanship is more important than the part itself. I never let poor workmanship pass without saying something and usually getting something for the inconvenience (even if its just a free oil change or tire rotation). Bottom line, the service techs make or break a service department and your return as a customer; not to mention your vehicle (just think if they left the oil filter or drain plus a smidge too lose). If the service manager won't respond, contact the general manager. As long as you're civil, respectful, and present the facts pertaining to the poor workmanship and inconvenience, you will see results. If that doesn't work, contact DC, dealers love it when they get a letter concerning their service department... tends to affect the "5 Star" rating or potential for one. That's what my local Jeep dealer got from me... now I use the Dodge dealer a 1/2 mile down the road.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Member Posts: 490
    Well, some may remember I've been following this board because of my consideration of adding a CRD Liberty to the stable. Being in California, I can only get a used one. A nearby dealer decided to "corner the market" on used CRDs and began bringing them in from out of state and trying to sell them here (for pretty steep prices I might add.) I test drove and asked some ?s, the biggest of which was "who's gonna fix this thing". Oh, dont worry says the dealer. We're training our techs. We'll take care of it ..."

    Well, guess what? The dealer, which has been there for 32 years, threw in the towel yesterday. OUT of business. They sold Jeep, Volvo, Suzuki and Chrysler. Gone.
  • cmasscmass Member Posts: 2
    I read through various forums AFTER buying TWO CRDs. I freaked out! HOWEVER, since then I have come to my senses and have decided these are the best 2 cars I have owned.
    Folks really need to relax about what they are reading. I have found over the past couple of years that most people in forums are there specifically because they are having trouble. Statistically speaking, they are a small minority of the population - but they are concentrated into one spot. Be careful about getting too "forum dizzy". Sometimes there really is such a thing as too much information. I read through these to get a better understanding of POTENTIAL problems, what to watch for and how to fix things. But I also did so with my Subaru as well as my F350 (both great cars for me - but labeled as crap & lemons by the people having trouble in the forums I read.)
    One important thing that I have learned with any car is to establish a good relationship with a reputable 5 star dealer. This can be critical if there are recalls (which most cars have at some point or another)
    So, relax, go get the TSBs taken care of, change the oil, keep it clean and have fun. These really are fun to drive. Plus, I have my own fueling station at my house in the form of a large tote and electric pump. I have always used exclusively 100% pure locally produced biodiesel with 0 problems - HOWEVER, I chose a dealer who is into it so I don't have to lie about using it. The cars both run fine. No tranny problems, no fuel problems, not even an ERG failure (which I attribute to the use of clean biodiesel).
    We have over 35K on these cars now - far past the point my Subarus had issues.
    Enjoy your cars! :mad:
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I very much agree with all that you say. People who have unresolved problems with their CRDs or any other vehicle will howl the loudest in a forum. I personally put most of the blame on poor dealer service.

    My CRD has not been perfect but it is a good vehicle. It runs well and is quite economical for what it is. I have run my CRD on biodiesel blends up to 40% and it actually ran better. Unfortunately, biodiesel is hard to find in Montgomery County Maryland so I purchase when I am on the road.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Not only that but some of this guys run their CRD so bad that the tranny, rear end, fuel system give them issues. You have to use it and do the small maintenance the you should give it every so often.

    Nescosmo....
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