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Comments
EGR problem... you know...
My dealer has a telephone book listing 'certified' towers. This is new to me and gets my feet cold
Here is an interesting link showing in detail the common rail technology used in RENAULT engines:
http://www.renault.com/renault_com/fr/images/imagessynthesem9r_fr_tcm1119-456268- - - .swf
If you follow the news, you must know that Renault puts tremendous pressure on developers. Unfortunately three of them couldn't face the challenge last year. Do we really need to carry on with such sophistication?
I'd be interested to hear what oil is specified for the Euro market models (Caribou?) and, if different, what VM Motori recommends for similar engines sold in other vehicles.
I also consider it strange that the owner's manual stated only Mobil 1 in two grades (with 5W-40 as a fallback) and didn't simply state synthetic motor oil meeting CF (or, in my world, CI-4) specifications. This to me indicates either a collaboration with Mobil, to put it very nicely, or a lack of testing and a default option of only authorizing one brand of oil. I am now reading forums on bobistheoilguy quite regularly and based on UOA results Mobil 1, though definitely a quality oil, does not seem to have any edge over several other quality brands.
After hearing the dealer I use I am of the opinion that the main reason for so many buy backs is the lack of DCX properly giving the proper testing of the polution control systems, and the very limited training given to the dealer tec's.
farout
Nescosmo.....
VM plant is based where the climate is mild during the winter; grade 10 oil for cold starts is sufficient for their region.
A grade "zero" oil will remain at this viscosity for a few seconds only during extreme cold starts. This low viscosity reduces the drag effort to start the engine, calls for a smaller battery and starter motor.
Because cast iron cylinders have smaller thermal expansion than the aluminum alloy pistons, when the engine is at a very low temperature there is greater play between the pistons and cylinders. Thermal contraction also helps the smaller starter by momentarily producing more freedom between components. If one would use a straight W40 here, the benefit of the looser fit would be altered by the effort needed to overcome residual viscosity. We have to keep in mind that battery power is also significantly reduced in cold weather.
I think the "zero" grade oil really plays it's role by releasing the piston rings to produce compression when cold. This may also be 'the' important oil filtration issue. The piston rings are imprisoned (pinched) in deep grooves that reduce the play (contract) when they are cold in opposition to the pistons with the cylinders.
All other oil specific features apply.
I'm convinced you took the right decision by letting your "Green Beast" go back to where it belongs...
DC plays sophistication and lost customer confidence over here as well. Who will profit from their attitude? My guess is Asian builders (again) who have the wisdom to observe and keep only the best. I had imagined to eventually replace the engine in case of failure, but I can buy a new small diesel car for the price they ask. This is plain stupid.
DC is also said to be involved in a scandal concerning European aircraft construction. Just listen to the headlines and watch where they will make their future 'joint-venture' investments
Would you appreciate Jeep to be built in Asia? I'm sure someone thought about this already. While I was there I saw a few Liberty and Grand Cherokee gassers that were exported from California. One of them was given the name of "Flying Dragon" :shades:
http://www.leblogauto.com/2007/06/pimp-my-ride-china.html
http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/union2005/product-detailNbvnFoprAxUO/China- - -Jeep.html
Here's more about Chrysler:
http://www.chinacartimes.com/2007/10/16/chrysler-to-get-in-on-small-car-business- - - -in-china/
I am not sure if I told you we bought a Chrysler Pacifica, a 2007 with the "LIFETIME POWER TRAIN WARRANTY" and we got the Max Care lifetime service contract too. The pacifica is the Touring AWD with the 4. L engine with the 6 speed automatic trans. Believe it or not this gets better MPG than our Jeep Compass did. On a trip we get 24.3 and around our Lake area. The Pacifica is a real quality vehicle. With the AWD we go everywhere the Jeep went and with less bounce. So we are very pleased.... so far.
I did read that Chrysler will discontinue the Commander, and Compass by 2010, and a good possibility to end the Aspen and the Pacifica. Chrysler says they are too heavy into SUV's and they need a real gas saving vehicle in all three brands.
With all the flat frontend there seems to be a lot of wind drag to me, what happened to the aero-dynamic gas saving designs? Where does the Hemi fit into global fuel savings? It's not just Chrysler but most all vehicles seem to go for power and speed. With oil at $87. a barrel now I thing our economy is headed for inflation out of control. The 1980's had interest at 215 here for Housing! I hope France is doing better than us.
Best wishes...
farout
Daimler + Opel (GM) + Citroen (PSA) and Ford are now forced by law to divulgate all diagnostic codes. A French consumer association made this possible today, at last. Consumers will no longer be forced to have their vehicles serviced at the dealership. We are getting even :shades:
Sorry about your trouble with the CRD. I was one of the early posters concerning the cheesy looking wiring on the CRD compared to older cars that I had worked on. Since then I have paid closer attention to wiring on other new cars and seen very similar looking wiring. Apparently there is cheesy wiring that works and cheesy wiring that doesn't work, so much.
What is the all-highway mileage on your Grand Cherokee diesel?
What worries me is that I have the standard Chrysler additive now and the rear differential doesn't seem to lock as well. If I can't swing the back of the truck anymore I will change the oil again. I have a horrible icy slope to climb in the winter :sick:
What exactly is an SEGR? Is that the replacement for the EGR valve?
- When you remove the dust and metal particles that collect on the electromagnetic clutch of the A/C compressor, you gain an awful lot of rattling noise during the first five minutes after a cold start. The clutch rattles only when it's not engaged. :sick:
In order to remove the fan shroud without completely disconnecting the A/C pipes that run across the radiator, the service technician bent the longest A/C tube. After two weeks I noticed the aluminum pipe has a severe indent because of the rubbing against the edge of the thin steel structure that fixes the front grid. Look for clearance of those two tubes coming out of the A/C radiator. They are bent in a certain way to escape the steel structure but service people don't always look everywhere before closing the hood.
I bet this is another 600 USD discovery...
I also have a rattle coming from the bottom right front of the truck. I have the impression it's related to the muffler system because the 'sound' changes when I turn the engine off. Just as the engine stops I get a longer lasting 'squeaking' noise (just like an old coil spring box mattress sounds)
Once I get moving the BFGs take over up to 45 mph, above 50 mph the engine noise covers the radio if the volume level is set below 18. The normal radio volume level is 21 for a clear hearing condition at 70 mph; so when I hear the final squeak, this means quietness begins.
Thanks
ecrd
i read a number of the posts on this symptom. since they are several months or more old, i was wondering if anyone has since found the source of the problem.
thanks for your constructive input. :confuse:
Nescosmo.
A long time ago I mentioned Toyota suffered from injector pintle problems. They seem to stick in their sleeves. I think we may face the save problem.
Since I disabled the EGR it hasn't done it since.
Nescosmo..
There was a nice whirr coming from the alternator. The vacuum pump was relatively silent. The viscous water heater makes a subdued (relative to the engine) grumbling sound. The air conditioner compressor sounds like an air conditioner compressor with the clutch cycling on and off. There is bearing and belt noise that seems normal.
A very loud and distinct snap or mechanical click/rap sound comes from each injector. At first I assumed that this was the direct sound of ignition being transmitted through the injector but now I’m not so sure, since this sound could be the actualy injection event. One could easily use this method to find a failed or failing injector (if the engine will run with a failed injector). Oh, right, the computer will tell us which injector. The rail itself emits a harsh feedback sound from the injectors.
There was exhaust noise being transmitted from the turbo. How such a delicately balanced device can live at such high RPM attached to such a vibrating beast is a mystery to me.
I am going to have to drive with the engine cover off for a while so when the rattle happens again I can listen immediately – maybe in a grocery store parking lot or sitting next to a diesel pump. Lookers can wonder: What’s that idiot doing?!
The CRD is a racket, my wife is sick of it, but to me hearing the noise is better that to put the stereo sound.
Nescosmo...
1. Disconnect the plug at the valve.
2. Disconnect the MAF sensor.
Either one will illuminate the MIL.
To prevent the MIL you will need the circuit board from the L.O.S.T. site for the MAF or you will need to bypass the IAT circuit with a resistor & relay.
I read online recently that Chrysler is introducing a military Wrangler version, with a 2.8, 4 cylinder turbo diesel. Is the same one as in our Liberty's?
Here is your answer, and more...
http://www.vmmotori.it/en/01/01/index.jsp