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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    While attempting to change the serpentine belt by myself (failed), I managed to drop a socket wrench down the driver's side of the engine toward the front of the engine bay. I am unable to locate the wrench by sight or by feel and it is not on the ground.

    I was able to remove the two bolts at the rear of the skid plate but could not find the attachment point(s) at the front. Any help would be appreciated, especially with pictures.

    Thanks,

    Winter2
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Winter,
    Try to flush it away with a large flow of water. If it doesn't move out of it's location leave it there. At least one of us will know where his rattle comes from ;)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi Farout,
    What you discover today was thoroughly explained before the conflict began by this person:
    http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antoine_Sfeir

    The CRD was an "option" oriented towards energy independence. It was made too sophisticated to start and you were not given the chance to train service people before the vehicles were delivered.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Your idea is interesting, but I think the wrench is wedged in front of the differential. There is no rattle but I just do not want the wrench to get caught in the machinery.
  • storageguystorageguy Member Posts: 30
    Correct me if I am wrong, but I recall reading that the USA consumes 46% of the worlds oil supply, and produces only 6%. Thats why Canadian oil is so popular,
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The CRD was an "option" oriented towards energy independence. It was made too sophisticated to start and you were not given the chance to train service people before the vehicles were delivered.

    Farout, I must disagree with what you say here. The technicians at my dealership were well trained prior to the appearance of the CRD. Also, these same technicians have been trained to deal with the GC CRD and the Cummins diesels in the Dodge trucks. They spent a week in school for each application including hands on.

    The quality of the service you receive very much depends on how motivated the technician is to do the best job he or she can. Perhaps I have been fortunate to have such good technicians.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Siberia,

    I get several consumer e-zines and one of them strongly suggested that getting a hybrid like the Prius was not a smart thing to do. Apparently they are not holding up as well as their maker would have us believe.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    storageguy: I really don't know, other than it's close by? I have seen figures that conflict on several places. Maybe people use figures to twist things to their point of view? Personally I do not see the answer is for our energy problems as anything the US Congress is even close to working on. I do think the Electric vehicles are well worth putting more research into, that and Hydrogen.
    I do know that when oil hit $90. a barrel that the more costly way of putting steam down the wells became affordable to get the oil out of deep rock that's holding the hard to get thicker oil.
    With China expanding so rapidly they have become keen competition in the open market for oil, as well as Japan, and every other place that needs oil.

    farout
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Winter2 - you are very fortunate to have a good dealer. Maybe if I could have found one I would still have my CRD. We have our Ram/Cummins still and intend to for a very long time. (The Dodge dealer we bought it from is pretty good, but doesn't sell Jeeps so I have no reason to think they would have done a good job with, or even wanted to touch, my CRD.)

    Amusing story (at least to me) - I had the Ram into its Dodge dealer a few days ago for service. Noted a green Liberty CRD on the lot. This Dodge dealer is 1/2 mile away from where I traded in my CRD to a Chevy dealer last October. I took a look at it, up and down, and thought it was my old CRD. Had 43k miles vs. the 36k I traded at, but hey, maybe a salesman demo'd it. I had kept my CRD clean so there were few identifying marks, but there some small water stains on the front seats (if your Liberty has the cloth seats, you know what I mean) and I thought they were the same as the stains on my old CRD. I memorized the last 6 digits of the VIN to see if it was mine... got home and discovered it was nowhere close. Funny, given that it seemed identical down to cloth stains and everything.

    No price posted on the not-mine CRD, in fact nothing but a "balance of factory warranty (ha, ha) sticker on it. Wonder how much they want and how long it's been there. No, I'm not missing mine - just curious. I have done some driving cost calculations and with the current costs of diesel and gasoline, and the CRD maintenance requirements, my Suburban costs no more to drive than my old CRD, despite its size and lower mpg. I keep reading silly news articles saying diesel is the future, but if diesel continues to cost 80 cents/gallon more than 87octane, it's the future only for people who can't do math.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Hi Winter2,

    The front bolts are recessed. You will need to go through the round holes at the front of the shield with a socket on and extension to reach the bolts. Your may have already noticed that the rear holes are slotted and open so that you can just loosen them, leave them in place and slide the shield forward when the front bolts are out. This helps putting it back on too. Mine has been off a few times for changing the front differential oil, looking for the rattle and once for something I dropped.

    I did not have a box end wrench long enough to reach the tensioner. So, I clamped one end of the longest box end wrench I have in a vice grip to make it longer. It actually works pretty good since the vice grip can be angled on the wrench to fit in a little better.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, we've seen several "scientific approaches" explaining that thicker oil extraction in Canada had a horrible impact on nature. The used water coming out of the wells is highly contaminated and too expensive to neutralize.

    We could push a bit more to recycle our waste cooking oil without creating conflicts but as of today the food chain is financially stressed worldwide. We had the same stressed situation between currencies before the Euro was introduced. Is it the same group of people creating this mess? Hands are rising and fingers are pointing to a common direction :surprise:

    As of China, they often use air-air heat pumps for heating apartments because it's cheaper than oil and most of their privately owned (small) vehicles run on gasoline. They have a "modular" diesel engine that can power small trucks, compressors, tractors, etc... This type of engine produces black smoke as if you would burn tires.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    We're having some good back and forth on oil over in the What will you do when gas price rises above $4 a gallon? discussion. Love to have y'all join us there.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi Steve,
    $4 a gallon, but for which currency? The "$" sign is used in several countries ;)

    On the way to work this morning I heard the barrel of crude oil is quoted 117USD. The "TOTAL" filling station prices are 1.51 Euros per liter of premium gasoline and 1.34 for the ULSD diesel. When you convert these prices you come to more than 10 USD per gallon for gasoline. British television reported that people need to lock their home heating oil tanks because of theft of fuel. Wasn't this part of the story in "Mad Max" movie?

    There are many people throughout the world who are paid from a different country than where they have to work and live. I call these the educated poor :cry:
    Unfortunately there are many North-Americans in this situation.

    I haven't yet found the way to increase mileage on the CRD. Driving at 50 or 75 mph makes no difference in my case. Perhaps the tuning chip will become my last resort. I tried different oil and air filters, different fuels, different tire pressures, different lubricants; in all combinations temperature is the main factor influencing mileage.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    And did you compensate for the Imperial gallon too? :shades:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think you meant to use the lower case dollar sign! ;)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Radio info today at noon:
    - there are 350,000,000 wealthy middle class individuals in China, in equivalent to US and EU standards.

    In which case of the d_0_llar or the eur_0 do you think we stand? We need brains, will and a vigorous industry to get out of this mess. Our interests are too related to the petrol industry. How do you explain we made a sophisticated and unreliable engine out of a rock solid technology?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    In which case of the d_0_llar or the eur_0 do you think we stand?

    Frankly, I think the U.S. dollar is valued about right while the Euro is overvalued. But I don't think this is the most suitable place to get into debates on international monetary policy.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    As lucky as I have been, my CRD is in the shop to have an oil leak evaluated that is the rear seal on the trans or the front seal on the transfer case. I have been getting drops from time to time on the driveway.

    As to the cost of diesel versus gasoline, the price differential is closing here in MD where I live. Regular unleaded is running close to $3.60/gallon while diesel is still available for 3.999 in a few places. The price of gasoline is rising much faster than the price of diesel and I expect gasoline will be more expensive by the middle of this year, but I have been wrong before.

    Curious about the CRD you saw. My CRD has leather so water stains are a non-issue. When I ordered my CRD, I wanted the front passenger seat to be adjustable for my wife and the only way to do that was to get a leather interior. All that cost $1500, so in a sense I have put my wife on a pedestal.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Siberia,

    Thanks for the info. The dealer is going to print instructions for me and their diesel tech is going to show me too.

    To change the belt, they have a special long wrench with some crazy curves in it that makes changing the belt a breeze. I just may buy one if the cost is not to outrageous.

    On another note, it looks like we will be heading for another ball joint recall and this time it will be the upper joints. There was an item on the local news radio station concerning collapsing front ends on 2002 and 2003 Libertys. They attribute this to ball joint failure.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Tidester,
    The CRD we own is similar all over the world. The monetary policy has its effects:
    - You buy European technology at a lower cost than we do
    - We buy an "American vehicle" with a much higher price tag

    Put this in a blender and what do we have:
    - High prices for a standard technology in the EU
    - Decent prices and help from Heaven in the US

    When currencies match, you don't need Heaven anymore.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Caribou - I was driving in an area that's super flat compared to your Alps, but I did see significant mpg differences based on speed:
    30mpg at steady 55mph
    26mpg at typical 65-70mph freeway
    24mpg at 75mph freeway

    Outside temperatures played a role too, but I have no influence on those.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Hey peoples ! Just checking in to brag about, well..... Perfection !
    Mar '05 Diesel Liberty still hasn't been to the shop.
    Any new issues I'm out of the loop on ???
    Thanks.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Zachinmi,
    Without being too technical I observed the following:

    - diesels that use flywheels are not sensitive to temperature :D
    - we usually get good mileage during summer holidays ;)
    - our daily obligations are often in city traffic :cry:
    - winter conditions cumulate low temp. and traffic :sick:

    In a year, how many days do you travel for pleasure :confuse:
  • trrumpetwashertrrumpetwasher Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace the driver's side front side marker light. What do I have to do, drill out the rivets holding the bumper cap?
  • steve05steve05 Member Posts: 52
    Amazing, my libby turned 36K and 600 miles and suddenly the power steering pump bleeds profusely. Also, last week, I bought new tires at 36k and 400 miles. While the tires were off, I looked at the brakes. Rear pads are COMPLETELY shot. Fronts look brand new. Call dealer - "Well - you ARE out of warranty, so we'll fix it, but it'll cost you. And the brakes? We replace lots of rear brakes. What's wrong with that?" Me - "Don't you think replacing REAR brakes indicates an issue with the proportioning valve?" Them - "No, why?" Me - "First time working on cars?" Them - "Sir - do you have an attitude problem?" Me - hang up, fix brakes, dropping Jeep off on Monday at a REAL mechanic to fix power steering issue. LAST CHRYSLER PRODUCT. Love my Jeep, but....
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Consider posting that in My warranty has expired. Now what?.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    I believe it was VW that had the reputation for 2 sets of rear pads to one front, while others were going through 2 fronts to one rear just like tires (fwd-if one saved tire rotation expense). It seems to happening now to others. My initial thought is straight stopping from 60 to 0.
  • steve05steve05 Member Posts: 52
    Well, I've had a few days to "sleep on it" now, and this is the best I can console myself with: As I've not read on this forum any mention of rear brakes wearing out (yes, I know it's a DIESEL forum) I'll have to guess my situation is unique. The dealership I've been taking all my warranty work and oil changes to, is not the dealer I bought the jeep from, and the service manager probably is not aware of the several thousands of dollars I HAVE spent there on factory add-ons. His incentive is low and maybe he had a bad day. BTW - the rotors were trash too. Most of my friends are "backyard" mechanics, like meself, and none of us have seen rear pads go first. Ce la vie.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Steve05,
    Rear brakes wear according to your driving habits and the load on the rear axle. The CRD is almost balanced and the brake load proportional valve seldom needs to ask for assistance from the rear axle. On mine I hear the rear pads whistle when I apply the brakes, and by pulling the hand brake the sound changes. To set the play of the rear pads one needs to pinch the disc brake and let go by 3 notches in reverse direction. This makes the hand brake lever travel halfway up in its slot.
    I have rust but practically no wear on the rear rotors after 120,000 KM.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I just replaced all 4 pads and rotors at 106000 mi.m
    The fronts were metal to metal and the rears were at 10%.
    I went in because I was starting to hear a noise from the passenger rear.
    I was told that the rotors are a composite and are designed to wear down with the pads-not a great design IMHO.
    I notice no difference in braking.
    Maybe something in your brake system is hanging up causing the back brakes to not release properly.
    My morning drive is mostly downhill, and I tend to wear out brakes rather fast, I was very impressed with the life on the OEM brakes. :)
  • andrewjakeandrewjake Member Posts: 8
    Well, I read all the post on here. I started a few months back before I bought mine. It started with people talking about news of the CRD coming out. People ording one. Waiting. I was a little worried when I first saw 1000 posts but I really wanted the diesel and 4x4. I kept reading. I noticed people posting that didn't have a jeep or had a jeep and no longer had one and are still posting. Go to an aol chat room or something, jees.
    People post about minor stuff. I remember cars in the 60's and 70's that were wore slam out at 50k mile. "Never" did a car make 100k. It would flood out when it rained. Squeeked, rattled and were a real POS. Cadillacs, Buicks sedans, it didn't matter. People are spoiled now and have no experience to even change oil. You go to a parts house and girls are punching numbers and have no idea what the parts do. Guys had to be cracker jack mechanics before they got work at the parts house. Cars and trucks always broke down and crossing over parts was the standard of the day. Nothing stayed stock just to keep it running. Parts guys were like doctors, they knew soooo much about all cars and trucks. We are talking about working on the drive line all of the time. rebuilding engines and transmssions. There were no options like today. Now the computer tells you whats wrong and you get the part number from the girl and put the part on. Jees.
    My jeep split a blower hose after driving it for 3k miles. The girl at the parts counter at the dealer had it in stock and I put it on in 10 minutes. These cars are so reliable they should have girls in the mechanic bays too.
    It has 70k on it. I bought it in N.C., I flew up and drove it home. It is in nearly new condition. It is an amazing little truck.
    I went to a grocery wholesaler a few months ago and bought 5 gallons of VO and poured it in DINO 75/25 VO. Smells good, runs better with more power, smoother, more responsive, cleaner without all the smoke, increased mpg by 1.5, quieter. I then poured it in my boat with a four cylinder Perkins in a 43 foot trimaran then into my YM2200 Yanmar tractor. all was great then the price of VO jumps up to $6 a gallon wholesale. I'm still going to add the VO. American diesel is dirty unpurified crap compared to the euro fuel. All of the engines are just happier and so am I. Fortunately I don't drive to work everyday. I tried peanut oil like ole Mr. Diesel patented it for but I blew the turbo hose and got busy and really didn't notice any difference from the VO but the price of peanut oil is now 12 dollars a gallon. I'm going to take my tractor and plant peanuts, I can eat them, sell them and make fuel. Sounds good to me. This truck is worlds away from the trucks a decade or two or three or four ago. This VM Motori of Italy motor is great. VM has been making only diesels since 1943 and this motor is all over europe since 2001. Europe is 60% diesel passenger cars. I see why GM bought 50% of the stock in 2007 and will be putting them in the 2009 cts cadillacs. Hence the reason no 2007 CRD's. Roger penske is now CEO. I doubt they will be in America. I'm sure an American company will screw up the company.
    Anyway, complaining about taking your jeep into the dealer is funny to me. All of the dealers have always been that way. It's not the Jeep. If you can't do the work your self you should have a prius or a focus. A jeep crd that never leaves the road or doesn't have a towing backage on it is a waste. Like kids that buy trucks and jack them up with mud tires that never leave the road. If you can't turn a wrench, stop whineing.
    Mine has had all the recalls done, the joints, the TC, the egr. I get a kick out of the dealer replacing all these things for free at 70k or 100k miles. Back in the day we never heard of a recal and every part and option on the car was broke in five years no matter how much you babied it.
    The tc is the way it is because 300 ft. lbs of torque would give you whip lash everytime it shifted. The next time it happens I look forward to the sunpro tc and the transgo shift kit. Goody Goody. Clean the map sensor when you change the oil. It's one #4 allen, how easy is that?
    I didn't see any catrostophic failures anywhere about the CRD so I bought one. The egr? Filthy fuel. Brakes at 100k...your kidding right? Electric mirrors? what is that for? leave my mirrors alone. best thing that could happen. must be chicks.
    My son is so jealous I have to let him drive it.
    geeep...geeep...lol... :)
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    who should be the one to get to post msg 10,000 (or 9999 if that is a limit)
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Not kidding-106000 mi on stock brakes. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Mdamick,
    Do you have oil leak stains where you park? My parking area remains clean except for the air conditioning condensates that carry oily residues. That's all there is after 5 years :)
  • butchmanbutchman Member Posts: 24
    I have 05 CRD. At just under 36K I smelled something hot. The rear left hand wheel was hot. Rear brake stuck and shoe rubbing. Took it in - Service Writer smiled - been seeing that. Replaced left caliper, brake pad and the short brake line - charged DC. Everything went well and then at 55K I smelled something hot. The rear right hand wheel was hot. I am out of warranty...Got relatively large screw driver, laid down on the cement and "carefully" found a place that I could leaver pressure against caliper. Pop - and was loose. Have driven approximately 300 miles since that and yes the brakes work - no hang ups - no heat. My guess - I take cruise off on Highway by tapping the brake pedal (a lot). Rear calipers have a tendacy of evidently sticking and then you get pre-mautre rear brake wear. How often are they coming loose on their own before I smell it...I figured the rear shoes may need replacing when the fronts do? :surprise: By the way - when the right rear was hanging up I did a test to see how tight it was and although there was some drag, it was not significant enough to cause pull. It was just rubbing enough to cause heat and wear.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Member Posts: 21
    Need advice - malfunction indicator light turned on, then off for a day then back on for good. Engine @45k runs good and no error codes are shown. Is this a mileage occurrence to get me to the dealer or is it possible something is wrong? Also how do you turn it off if it is mileage related?
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Hi all. Has anyone changed their fuel filter them selves? I've been told that a light will come on the dash board once it's filled with water and ready to go. (That's how the Power Strokes are). I have an 06 with a little over 32k. The only thing I do is change the oil with Mobil 1 5W-40 and rotate the tires. It's run ok, but the little rat stalls on occasion. Has this happened to anyone else?
    Is it the crank sensor? Little hic cups such as this as well as tranny issues- vibrations and little crap have me looking at the Cummins or Power Stroke 3/4 tons.
  • butchmanbutchman Member Posts: 24
    Are you sure there is no code (like EGR low air flow)? How did you check it? The symptom you describe is almost identical to what happened to me at approximately the same mileage. If it is EGR flow, there are some options. I would look at the LOST KJ web site - CRD forum.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I have noticed a couple of drips.
    Seem to be coming from the drain plug-which my oil place changed from the allen to a standard bolt type.
    Nothing to worry about.

    Post 10K :)
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.
    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.
    Then bleed it with the on-board pump and bleed valve on the left side.
    The only dash light is the "water in fuel", which I have seen a couple of times.
    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.
    The stalling I think is the EGR opening up when it is not supposed to. Since I disconnected it mine has not stalled once.
    I am still not enamored with the transmission, the TC seems to slip in 5th lockup between 50 & 55 if I push it too hard. I just live with it, and if it fails I would like to put in a Suncoast TC and shift kit.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Thanks. I believe Caribou posted awhile back on how he disconnected his EGR. Do you happen to have the steps you took?
    I'm a [non-permissible content removed] behind the wheel and even driving it hard over 80 most of the time I see 25-26mpg. I always felt the EGR as a gov't control device that really did little other then to make some feel good in the pits of their stomach that we were saving the environment.
    The thing seems to stall after sitting for an hour or so and as I get up a little speed and stop at the end of the driveway... the dreaded rattle and dead. She fires right up so I don't know what else it can be.
    Some on here have said to clean the throttle body out and others say it's the fuel filter. I think I will be doing the NO EGR, cleaning of the throttle body and changing the fuel filter.
    Other then those stupid quirks the truck does what I ask it when I ask it.
    The service writer at the dealership told me unofficially the same thing we all know by now. This was the former DC's way of testing the market with Diesels. They rushed all of the software and threw the smallest diesel that would bolt to the infamous A545- (I like the old 727's better, but I'm just weird.) Much like everyone else, I don't understand why the engine and trans weren't out of a Mercedes european diesel model car?
    Let me know if you upgrade the TQ converter. The after market makes much better products anyway.
    If this fixes the stalling I'll keep the truck and purchase the extended warrenty. If it doesn't then I'll sell it and but the Cummins.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    See post #9082.
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    Thanks. I showed it to the Diesel Mechanic at the dealership that's come to know my rat quite well. He smiled and nodded and explained the legality of tampering with that as it's federally mandated, blah blah. He did say he will order one and put it in for me. I'll wait for that to go and probably go your route. It's still under warranty so what the hell. I did like that Suncoast TQ. That's nice. Claims up to 80 extra HP? So we can put that back in and get the HP/TQ we lost with the de tune :shades:
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    I don't know if anyone has had this yet, but while the dealer was replacing a broken motor mount on my Libby, the tech noticed that the front brake lines had ballooned. It was fortunate that the truck was in the shop and in the air because they probably wouldn't have lasted that much longer.
    I urge anyone that has this truck to either crawl under there and look or take it to the dealer. It has not hit the bulliten yet. My truck went in with a smidge over 32,000 on it. The pads and rotors are "green" and still original from the factory so it's not as if I autocross with her.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Changing the fuel filter is a pain because of the water in fuel sensor plug that can only be reached from underneath.

    Try removing the two mounting nuts on the filter head and lift the entire assembly up as far as the hoses will let you. Then you can then remove the electrical plug(s) and loosen the drain working from the top. If you lift the assembly up and away you can drop a transmission funnel below the filter area into an empty container below the vehicle to catch the fuel when you open the drain. Or not, just a suggestion.

    How I did it was fill with fuel before re-installing.

    Just a minor caution here: It can be risky to poor raw unfiltered diesel fuel into a filter unless you are sure the fuel is only going into the proper area of the filter. It is a major caution on diesel engines that use a drop in filter in a canister. In all modern diesel fuel systems the fuel must be drawn in only through the filter. The primer pump on the filter works quite well and ensures that the fuel is safely filtered. You must have done it right, but it only takes one particle that is big enough to plug an injector.

    I wish DC had put a drain valve on the filter, because you have to unscrew the sensor and let the water/fuel run down your arm until you get all of the water out.

    Well…it is supposed to be a drain. It’s made like a tiny funnel with a place where you can attach a clear plastic hose and open it partially and drain the water off. The threaded part has a flat side to let the fuel flow through to the funnel part when partially open. The problem is it doesn’t work very well…at least I could’t get it to work for s#’!.

    I have around 55k miles on my engine and it seems to have more power than ever. I am not sure if I am not enamored with the transmission or enamored with this engine that seems to be capable of shredding a fairly strong transmission on demand.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Your points are noted.
    I was comparing it to my Dodge P/U.
    The drain is actually a valve that you push up and a hose to direct the water/fuel into an oil pan. Much nicer than unscrewing the water in fuel sensor.
    I did not feel like taking the thing apart more than I had to to change the filter, the new vehicles have so much crammed into the engine bay they are difficult to work on.
    As to pre-filling the filter, I keep some #1 for heaters and pour it into the filter center. I have never had a problem getting dirt into the filter [non-permissible content removed]'y.
    At 107000 mi mine is running good and getting 23-25 mpg.
  • kntrygurlkntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    I have an 05 Jeep Liberty Deisel and it is building backpressure and blowing the intake hose off the throttle body. The wastegate is not opening but when you unhook it the vaccuum line from it the enigine will run without blowing the hose, but with considerable loss of power.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    There is a solution to this problem.

    1. You need to find the boost sensor on the intake manifold. It sits near the back of the intake manifold and is on top. Your will need a four millimeter Allen key wrench to remove the single screw that holds it in place.
    2. Disconnect the wiring that goes to it. Once out flip it over. The poor thing will probably be buried in black sticky soot. Clean that off with some brake cleaner and a very soft brush. I find Amsoil Power Foam also works very well too. Once you have the sensor nice and clean, replace it and re-connect the wiring.

    3. For the hose, the end that keeps blowing off is probably oil soaked and is very mushy. If that is the case, you will probably have to replace it. My dealer gave me the hose and I replaced it myself, returning the bad one, no questions asked.

    When you replace that hose, it should be in place without either end attached to anything. Make sure the throttle body is clean and dry. Apply a thin coat of either Indian Head Shellac or Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the outside of the throttle body where the hose goes and another thin coat to the inside of your new hose. Apply the coat of either as far into the hose as you possibly can without dropping the applicator into the hose. Allow the gasket cement to dry for about three to five minutes and then slide the hose onto the throttle body. Apply the hose clamp and tighten it down. Apparently the gasket cement protects the hose from the oil and hot throttle body. I strongly suggest you wear disposable gloves when using either of the aforementioned cements as methanol is the only solvent for either of them.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi guys,
    Before changing anything I would try to feel how stiff both hoses become when the turbo is building pressure. If there is some kind of obstruction in the intercooler the boost pressure sensor could see a partial pressure. Secondly, there was a discussion here about a different type of hose that never became soggy. Certain makes of oil cause swelling of the intake hose on my engine :(
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    Your posting makes some sense, but according to the tech at the dealer I use, a boost sensor buried in sticky soot is the primary cause of blown hoses. He has yet to see a blocked or clogged intercooler.

    As to the oils, I have found that the original 0W-40 from Mobil gave me the most headaches with seepage, swollen hoses and consumption. The two oils I find that work best in my CRD are Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck/SUV Diesel and Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Synthetic for truck/Diesel. They both spec out similarly except that the Amsoil has a significantly lower rate of oil vaporization at high temperatures. Presently, the Mobil product is nearly $7.00/quart while the Amsoil product is about $1.00/quart less even when you include shipping costs and other fees.
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