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Comments
2003 Chevy TrailBlazer EXT
2003 Chevy Silverado
In December of 2007 the Silverado would not go into reverse. Parts 24224999 valve assembly, 24221142 plate PKG, 24208576 FLTR kit were replaced at Pellegrino Chevy in Westville, NJ. Repairs completed on 12/8/06. The mileage was 29,578. Was covered under extended warranty we bought-out of pocket costs $0.00
In December of 2007 the transmission was slipping badly on the TrailBlazer. It seemed unable to go into third gear. Parts 24224997 valve assembly, 24220200 F-plate, 24221350 GSKT kit and 24208576 FLTR kit were replaced at Pellegrino Chevy on 12/21/07. The mileage was 84,568. Out of pocket expense $1087.59!! Appears to be same exact problem. Called Chevy and complained. Received GM Loyalty certificate good until February of 2009 towards the purchase of a new GM. Still have certificate as our Chevy trucks were still quite new to us and we were NOT interested in buying a new vehicle. Fast forward to today. The transmission has slipped again on the TrailBlazer. It is Sunday and I was entering a highway trying to get up to 50 miles an hour, with my 14 year old son with me, when the engine just started really revving and the truck was barely accelerating. This is seriously unsafe and if it does turn out to be the same problem I will be most unhappy. We could have been rear-ended! The TrailBlazer only has 104,000 miles and change so it made it just about 20,000 miles for the tranny to fail again. I would really like to hear directly from a customer service rep before I put it into the shop-again. There is nothing I can do with it on a Sunday afternoon anyway.
Thank you in advance for any and all help,
Gina and John S., loyal GM owners.
P.S. I'm glad I have a 1991 Camaro as a back up vehicle or I would end up renting a car and/or missing work.
Went to a local transmission repair shop, explained the problem and they stated that they knew exactly what the problem was as it was the SUN ring ( gear ). They stated that they could install a rebuilt transmission with a years warranty for $1,750. Knowing our local Chevy dealership, I could only imagine seeing a bill for over $3,000. As, they have stuck it to me before.
Transmission shop took in my Blazer that afternoon and I had it back the next morning. So, another of many repairs to my Blazer has been completed.
BUT !! Now I need to add another message to all you other folks that have paid dealerships to replace your FUEL PUMP MODULE. Hate to have to say this, but you were not very smart !
General Motors has known of this problem for many years and it is a technical recall. Years ago I received a letter from them stating that if you owned a 2002 Blazer and lived in certain states, the FUEL PUMP MODULE's were rusting and would be replaced FREE of any CHARGES at your local Chevy dealerships.
Only way I found out that mine was rusting and leaking is that I was able to smell raw gas fumes at the rear or on the sides of the vehicle at the rear.
I took the vehicle to my dealership and the Fuel Pump Module in the tank was rusting and leaking gas. I showed them the letter from GM and everything was replaced free of charge.
Thus, if you are having this same fuel pump problem, be aware that GM is supposed to cover the cost of repairs. If you have had this problem and paid for it out of your own pocket, I would definitely be going back to your dealership and demanding my money back for the repair.
Now that you ALL know ............ Good LUCK !!
Unfortunately I don't have any technical resources to help you troubleshoot this. However, if you have any specific technical questions I can ask another department for any insight they'd be able to offer (in addition to your question, please include the last 8 of your VIN).
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Problem: The transmission won't fully engage in drive and does not engage at all in any other gear (R, 3, 2, 1).
I will preface this by saying I have checked, double checked and checked again, at least 6 more times, all of my connection including oil cooling lines, electrical/wiring, transmission fluid while in park/idling and everything else I can think of.
Here is the situation...
The transmission and transfer case was removed from the engine block as a single unit. NOTE: It was a cumbersome and heavy SOB so if you are a DIY'er, like myself, I would highly recommend you remove the transfer case first then the transmission. The torque converter was NOT removed.
The removal and replacement of the transmission and transfer case was uneventful. Once everything was put back together, I filled it with 11 quarts of Dex VI (recommended by many on this forum) that I bought ($$$ - practically had to finance) from Chevy dealership. The capacity for the torque converter is 6 quarts and the pan is 5 quarts. I then started the car and let it idle while I checked the transmission fluid level. It was 6" up the dipstick so I assumed two things: #1: Either the torque converter was already full (since I never removed and drained it) and I overfilled the system, OR #2: The fluid didn't have a chance to circulate through the system. To test assumption #2 I shifted through the different "gears" (R, N, D, 3, 2, 1) while idling and in doing so I realized the car would not move in any gear. I left it in each gear for 10 seconds and shifted through all gears at least 5 times - to no avail.
The next morning, I jacked the car back up to check, yet again, my connections. I also tried starting the car, checking the (overfilled) fluid, and then tried putting the car in the different gears - while it was up on the jack stands. I noticed when the car was in "Drive" and I pressed on the gas pedal the rear tires would turn but only if I really accelerated. There was clearly no power to the rear end but it did have some (very little) power. None of the other gears would cause the rear tires to turn.
I went and removed approximately 5 - 6 quarts of transmission fluid from the pan. I then re-started the car, checked the dipstick and noticed the level was still high (3" up the stick) and then shifted the transmission through the different gears to see if the tires would turn. No change - When in Drive, the rear tires would turn slowly when accelerating. Otherwise - nada, nothing.
I am at a complete loss and cannot figure out what I am overlooking. It seems that fluid is not circulating but I don't know why. What steps do you recommend I take in troubleshooting this mystery?
Some of my thoughts are:
- Reset transmission?
- Vacuum leak?
- Bad electrical connection?
- Too much fluid?
- Wrong fluid type?
- Bad transmission?
- Take it to the shop to check codes?
- Donate the car to charity?
Thank you, in advance, for your help.
Thanks so much for input
I have been told my transmission is done and $3800 for new one. Looking for thoughts - was driving normally (no previous issues with revving, or locking etc). Suddenly revving power just stopped, pulled to the side of road - slowly. Engine runs fine, and engine revs when pressing the accelerator but it just doesnt go anywhere??