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Repair and keep it or unload it?
Just found out that our 98 Audi A4 Avant Quattro wagon needs about $2600 worth of repairs (steering rack & ps pump). 68,000 mi. decent shape. we own it outright. I Hate to get rid ofit but hate to put that much coin into it. Any opinions?
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I would have a good shop do a total inspection of the car. If everything else checks out good it may be worth spending the money.
I agree with above: have the car thoroughly professionally checked to get an idea of other things about to need repair.
While Audis do not age well, I would not think it would already become a money pit at 68K. I must say I find it a little shocking that a car with that few miles would need a new steering rack?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'm kinda shocked too, about a car with 68K miles needing a new steering rack. And is a rack and power steering really *that* expensive nowadays?!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'd get a second diagnosis.
Definitely keep the car. You'll never get much selling a cripple anyway.
My rule of thumb is that even 50% of a car payment into repairs each month is worth it.
I've had some of the worst cars in the world and they never cost me more than $200 a month to keep running, averaging it out over 3 years say. I keep very good records, and that's the worst I've ever done. That's cheaper than any loan or lease.
The above chatter presumes a car that is cosmetically still nice. I'd never sink money into a rust bucket or heavily damaged car.
My 248,500 mile 1990 Q45 has cost around $22,500 in maintenance and repairs/replacements in the last 6 years [150,000 miles]...3750/yr.....$312.50 per month to keep mechanically perfect like brand new.
Sure there was one $6,000 year [when things piled up at 100-125k] but almost every thing replaced then is still fine....except shocks and brakes and some suspension parts.
What kills most people is buying [financing] used THEN having to deal with the previous owners abuse or non replacements.......making a car payment and equal mainteance and repair payments.
Why does a car depreciate by +50% in the first 3 years and +75% in 6 years.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I go to the dealer for oil changes and light bulbs.
About a year ago though, a buddy of mine bought a new 3-series, and took me for a ride in it. Big, big improvement over the older model. I honestly can't remember which year 3-series I sat in though, that gave me the "leather-clad Chevette" feeling!
How much would you have to spend to make your car that $2,500 example?
If $1,000, then maybe---any more than that and it gets very iffy, since you could just sell it as is (presuming you could at least get it started) for maybe $1,000 or so.
RECENT EXAMPLE:
I've been shopping for a second car for my summer place. Well I go look at this Subaru Legacy AWD wagon, right? It needs a clutch, the paint is peeling, and the right door is dented badly enough that it won't open. No radio, needs tires, a/c not working This is a circa 1990 car.
To me, this car is ready for the scrapyard, because I could just go out and buy a perfectly decent example for $2,500. This car isn't worth $100 dollars, much less the $1,000 asking price.
However...you can "negotiate" with them and work out a give and take that might save you a bundle of money.
I don't see why a diagnosis should cost $500 unless they mean a "teardown" to determine the exact cause of the transmission malady. This is RISKY, however, unless you've worked out an agreement about WHEN and IF and WHY you pay this much $$$ or they pay that much $$$. The LAST thing you want is to have your transmission lying in pieces on the floor and someone saying "nope, it's all YOUR fault. What do you want to do next?"
If you got a 50-50 deal on the transmission, I'd accept it if I were you. If your trans went at 150K, you probably would accept that. So you got 1/3 of a lifetime of use, and that is worth something. You've received some use, in other words, on this component---you got 1/3rd your money's worth on that trans. So I don't see why you shouldn't fork up at least 1/3 the cost.
By the way, who is coming up with the RIDICULOUS price of $6,500 for a transmission? That's another thing you have to clear up and negotiate.
If they double the price and then pay half, well you've just been suckered.
I'd advise you to get to your homework regarding actual costs and very precise stipulations as to how this "factory participation" is to proceed.
If none of this works to your liking, you could hire an attorney and ask legal counsel, but quite frankly I don't see as you have a legal case, in my own amateur opinion on warranties. If you are out of warranty on time and on mileage, and this has no concern for emissions issues, I don't see how you have any legal claim here. Ditto the airbag issue.
I'm not saying this is pleasant or the "norm", but I think every good negotiation starts with looking soberly at the facts of what you do and do not have going for you.
How can any vehicle be fun to drive when it is chewing up your bank account?
Perhaps it is better to repair one of these money bottomless pits as a new one will soon cost as much to keep repaired as an older one.
My opinion of German cars is much different than it was until we got that 76 VW Bus. Toyotas have been as reliable as was that 64 VW Beetle. The most recent purchase, 2001 Chevy Blazer had a very expensive repair that was mostly covered under the extended warranty. Never did have a major problem with any Toyota.
#1. German cars require expensive routine maintenance.
#2. Most dealers of German cars are arrogant and feel they have a right to rip off the public with expensive repairs.
Volkswagens were initially cheap transportation but the dealers charged so much for routine maintenance and repairs that it often cost more to drive a VW than a Cadillac since any money saved in fuel economy was quickly gobbled up by the maintenance and repairs.
Too bad domestic reliability took a nose dive in the 70's.
This happended to my A4 timing belt at 84,000 miles, 6000 befoer it is recommended to change the belt.
I need a new cylinder head & valves totalling $3000.
Let me know if audi gave you any help with the repairs.
Obviously, the majority of the public is satisfied and the technology, styling and driving superiority of German cars seems to be enough to outweigh Toyota's advantage in reliability stats.
Truth is, car buying is as much emotional and psychological as it is logical. Japanese cars just bore some people to tears and they want no part of them.
This is probably why serial-production Japanese cars have never become significant, first-tier, high dollar collectible cars despite 35+ years of being in America. Once they seriously fail, or are badly cracked up, they are generally destroyed.
I think people are more apt to repair a European car and more apt to unload a Japanese or American one (with a few exceptions) once a major repair looms. That's been my experience in the appraisal business these many years anyway.
everything has a weak point. congratulations on finding another one. sure stinks when it isn't something like the decal won't stay on the front of the cupholder, and it's serious enough to stop the engine.