Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I did read the contract. It was long with a lot of small print. Most of these warranties are written with this in mind and will sound good. The warranty is offered right before you finalize buying the car. The anticipation of a new car and wanting everything to be perfect is the opportune time.
That is until you actually need it then everything becomes a lot more clear. The company that provided the warranty was blatant about letting me know the warranty was pretty much useless.
When I finally did try and use it. I would never do it again and advise others not to bother. Definitely don't listen to the car salesman.
If I did decide to cancel it, would anyone recommend a competitive warranty for a toyota product that is out of manufacturer warranty? Penfed was offering a 5yr 100k warranty for $1280 but its just a third party deal. Price seemed more reasonable and I can add it on at the end of the cpo warranty time-frame.
You've just bought an exceptionally reliable vehicle, make the most of it!
Finally, expect the dealer to do everything possible (including lying to you) to stop you from cancelling. These are extremely high profit items, they will NOT want to let it go...
You just listed two (2) items that are specifically listed in their contract as NOT covered. This isn't in small print, nor is it "grey area"...they list like 20 or 30 items not covered, most of it belts, hoses, batteries, brake pads, etc...crap we've always paid for...anything else NOT listed is covered, or the other 5,000 parts on the car.
I'm in a GM certified service department and Olympicare pays out more than most...and when they don't it's ALWAYS plainly listed on the contract as not covered...not that people are excited to get that news anyway, but I've dealt with worse when you have to argue a case because the language is so vague. With that said, if you're buying a GM get the GMPP extended coverage...it's more expensive but your ball joint would have been covered.
Should we re-negotiate, increase contract term or cancel? If so, any warranty suggestions are appreciated. Car was prev lease/1-owner/exc condition/all service&maintenance completed.
Thanks!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
Factory backed warranties are not 'worth it', in that you'll likely get much less $$ out than you pay (that's why dealers push them so hard). But if you put a VERY high value on 'peace of mind', then, OK, I guess.
Your example of a belt would make me wonder if a wear item like that would even be covered.
My rule: if I can't afford the loss, buy the insurance. If I can afford the loss, cover it with money in the bank.
Many times, you can find the coverage listed online. If not, ask for a copy of it and read it carefully before even considering. In addition to the shady/bankruptcy issues, there are often many exclusions and loopholes to the contract provider's benefit.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
I've just bought a 2003 Chevy Cavalier for 3900.
Before buying the car the dealer told me that the car would have needed some fixes (one front wheel bearing and one tie rod end needs to be changes).
Should I get an extended warranty and have them fix this issues in their policy? Even if I replaced myself this parts, should I still get an extended warranty?
Thanks,
Andrea
Is it worth it?
Nissan suggest's an oil & filter change every 3750 miles. So in 75000 miles, it's 20 oil/filter changes. Generally, each oil change is around $35 at non-dealerships, so thats $700.
Tire rotations are required once every 7500 miles. So 10 times. Each tire ration is around $15 at non-dealerships - so that's $150.
There is an "intermediate service" required at 15k, 45k, and 75k miles. The dealership cost for this is $289, so I am assuming most non-dealerships will do it for around $200.. so $600 for that.
30k/60k servicing is generally the most expensive. Dealership charges $660, but from my experience, it is $400 at non-dealerships. So $800 for that.
So, if I do all this maintenance myself, I expect to pay 700+150+600+800 = 2250.. so this seems like a good deal, right?
I have time before reaching 3750 miles to add/buy this package.. so what do people suggest?
on their web site...
SCHEDULE 1 (more severe operating
conditions), every 3,750 miles or 3
months, whichever comes first
Use Schedule 1 if you primarily operate your
vehicle under any of these conditions:
● Repeated short trips of less than 5 miles in
normal temperatures or less than 10 miles in
freezing temperatures
● Stop-and-go traffic in hot weather or low
speed driving for long distances
● Driving in dusty conditions or on rough,
muddy, or salt-spread roads
● Towing a trailer, or using a camper or car-top
carrier
SCHEDULE 2 (less severe operating
conditions), every 7,500 miles or 6
months, whichever comes first.
Schedule 2 features 7,500-mile service inter-
vals; with Schedule 2 fewer maintenance items
are regularly checked or replaced than with
Schedule 1.
Generally, Schedule 2 applies only to highway
driving in temperate conditions. Use Schedule
2 only if you primarily operate your vehicle un-
der conditions other than those listed in
Schedule 1.
Yes, 3750 miles schedule is recommended in the Nissan Owners guide. I fall in the severe category because I will have repeated trips of <5 miles in normal temperature. One problem is that it will take me MUCH longer to reach 3750 miles than 3 months (I expect to reach that many miles in 8-10 months since this is my 2nd car that I do not use for daily commute to/from work).
Also, this is honored across nation at all Nissan dealerships with the exception of Alaska.
They do have three different "levels" of service though - Gold, Silver, Bronze (http://www.nissanusa.com/content/dam/nissan/pdf/extended-service-plan/Maintenan- cePlus.pdf). The price above is for the Gold level. I need to call and inquire about the pricing of other 2.. Since all Nissan dealerships honor this, I think it might be useful if I keep the car for 5 years (which I think I will).. Initially I was concerned primarily because I thought it was tied to the dealership, and I was not sure if I will stay close to the dealership for the next 5 years.
Nissan seems to have institutionalized high service revenue...most others do it with a dealer 'service recommendations' list that exceeds the owners manual requirements.
One question - are these generally negotiable? If so, I can do some math and try and see if they are willing to add it below a certain price point..
Have you checked around other Nissan dealerships? I can routinely get my oil changed for $19.99 at my Mazda dealership.
I think you'd probably end up spending more going with the Nissan "minus" plan.
I *definitely* will not drive 75k miles in 5 years. My average is likely going to be closer to 5k per year..
BUT, the manual recommends oil change every 3750 (or 7500) miles / 3 months (or 6 months) - whichever comes earlier.. so regardless of how many miles I drive, it seems that the manual recommends an oil change every 3 months.
I will call and check for oil change specials at other dealerships around to see how much they charge. I doubt there is a $20 special anywhere nearby unless I manage to haggle my way to that price..
So yes, the M+ plan does not seem worth it anymore.
You have a CVT transmission? No transmission fluid flushes. How you like that CVT transmission by the way?
Really like the looks of the Altima.
Would like to buy one myself. Congragts.
I called 3 Nissan dealerships nearby and offered that I would like to buy the M+ package for half the advertised price (i.e. $950) - 1 of the dealer refused immediately, and 2 told me they will get back to me.. let's see - if they agree I might get it (worth it just for the 30/60k warranty and oil changes alone), otherwise I will not buy it. I explained to them that I am a low miles driver, and will not get the full benefit of the M+ package if I bought it as-is, and am better off paying for the services individually if that was the case.
CVT is good so far. The only time I realize the difference is when I am merging into a freeway - you see the RPM shoot up for few seconds as you are accelerating, before it stabilizes. The unfortunate downside of CVT seems to be that the gas average is lower than non-CVT, but I am OK with that given that the difference is only a couple miles per gallon.
I have not yet driven the car on steep slopes - where apparently CVT helps the most be shifting into the right gear to minimize braking... so I cannot talk about that yet.
Overall, I think I made the right choice in Altima - it was the best tradeoff between cost and reliability. The Sonata appealed me, but the ride was not as smooth, and the interior did not feel as roomy (although they apparently have more cubic feet inside than Altima). The only question with the Altima is reliability - will the car run for 200k miles without needing major repairs - something my 97 Toyota Corolla does very well (I am at 125k miles on my Corolla and its still running like a champ).
My next car will probably be a Altima, Sonota or Fusion. Altima cost a little more, but most auto magazines have them at the top for performance and reliability.
But since they are a 3rd party (not sold by Nissan itself).. I wanted to solicit opinions from anyone here who have purchased from them..
One caveat I noticed is, that the oil changes are by months (i.e., I *have* to change oil every 3 months even if I have driven way less than 3750 miles), but the servicing and tire rotations are not. In other words, the M+ is sold with a 4 years/60k cap.. but if I do not reach 60k miles within 4 years, that service is not needed, and the money I paid for goes wait.
The more I think about this, the less sense it makes in buying one of these (unless there was a plan that just covered oil & filter changes.. but there isn't one).
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
If I am barely breaking even though, it is not worth it, because more than likely, I will miss out a few services because I have not driven the car enough miles before the contract expires (i.e., if I buy to 4 years/60k miles package, and at the end of 4 years, I have only driven 50k miles, I cannot do the 60k, and the price for that service which was built-in to the package price is lost).
Also, if (god forbid) your car was to be totalled, or you had to move somewhere where a Nissan dealership was very inconvenient, you'd be out of luck. Unlikely, I know. I mean, if you'd rather just pay up front and have the whole thing out of the way, the maintenance package does accomplish that. Just want you to make your choice with all factors considered.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
Btw, the package apparently can be cancelled at any time and you can request a pro-rated refund. I have not inquired how they calculate the pro-rated refund though (example, if they calculate based on price of retail service provided and deduct that price for things you have performed, it would be really bad).. but I know 100% that I won't drive anywhere close to the 15k miles per year average that U.S. car owners supposedly run.
Most extended service contracts are either named component or exclusionary. If a component such as a power steering pump or an AC compressor is not specifically named in a named component agreement, IT IS NOT COVERED. Period. If a specific component such as navigation equipment or air bag system is NOT LISTED it IS covered by an exclusionary or "factory type" agreement. Our contracts are first day coverage while many exclude the first thirty days. Many low cost drivetrain or powertain only plans have a liability cap. This means that there is a maximum that will be paid ($1,000, $1,500, etc.) regardless of the repair cost. This is usually the type coverage that dealers advertise offer as a "free" or "lifetime" warranty
I've seen several complaints about coverage being denied because routine maintenance, usually oil changes, was not performed or recorded. This is not unique to the extended warranty but applies to every FACTORY new car warranty as well.
Ask your salesperson or finance manager for a copy of the warranty, not the brochure, and check for what I mentioned above. Do not accept statements such as "it's not mentioned in there but we always cover that" or "I'll have that added to the agreement".
Lastly go to www.ripoffreport.com and www.pissedconsumer.com. Many companies have been bashed on this site but I have yet to see a complaint about ASC warranty company.
Aside from the warranty issue, where would you even go to get the work done?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Done.
Is this true? I can not find any information regarding this anywhere. Other than one person trying to find out the same thing after a purchase in 2009.
Florida considers Extended Warranties a form of insurance. It's pricing is regulated by the insurance commission and cannot be discounted. Further, many manufacturers will not allow dealers outside the state to sell warranties to Florida residents again due to the insurance commission regulations.
They may be the only state that does so.
http://www.leg.state.fl.us/Statutes/index.cfm?App_mode=Display_Statute&URL=0600-- - 0699/0634/0634.html
634.1815 and 634.282 appear to include specific reference to uniform pricing. Most specifically, I suspect:
'(6) UNFAIR DISCRIMINATION.—Knowingly making or permitting any unfair discrimination between individuals of the same actuarially supportable class and essentially the same hazard, in the amount of premium, policy fees, or rates charged for any motor vehicle service agreement, in any of the terms or conditions of such agreement, or in any other manner whatsoever.'
Good luck!
- Ray
Georgia resident . . .