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I strongly suggest you look at a Chilton's or Mitchell manual. For instance, if you remove and reinstall the serpentine belt and it pays .8, then to do the water pump at 2.0 would have the .8 included.
I've spent what seems like thousands of hours in those two guides and can certainly speak from experience. If there's ever a question over time charged, simply ask to see the book and have them explain how they came up with the time. Of course, if they made a mistake in your favor, it's going to cost you some money.
Dealerships may have a FEW parts installers, but if your health insurance is paid up, walk into the Chevy dealer's service department I managed and say: "And BTW, dealerships don't have mechanics anymore--they're just parts installers".
Same problem with extended service contracts that may limit per hour chages and hours billed.
If a business needs x hours at y dollars per month if you are forced to take work that pays less per hour something has to give.
We solve the problem by using salary only techs [based on them working and billing 45 hours per week........we leave the load balancing and work efficiency up to the team which must averge 45 hours per week per member......the slackers get beat with a wrench by the other team members.
Believe me if dealers could dump warranty work they would.......as an independent dealing with the highest quality vehicles only, I thank my lucky stars we don't have to warranty Lexus or Infiniti and they are the best of the lot with Furd near the bottom.
In fairness to dealers it should be noted that warranty work time rates were a bit tight. One example would be less than an hour to do a complete clutch R&R including pilot bushing. So I think each one was trying to keep the other from ripping them off. I don't blame those dealers who kept a used parts bin. You always lost money on warranty.
These days it looks like the name of the game is buyer beware. Hey,if you can't pay someone four grand to buy a Cavalier, something is very wrong.
Anyway I think every buyer feels like the bottom of the food chain. Too bad realy. What do you do when the customer is gone for good. Maybe 8 grand to buy your product will work. I think we might get to see.
One advantage of not buying the policy (either from the dealer or 3rd party) at the time you purchase the car is that you get the manufactors warranty period to decide how well the car you bought was put together. Obviously past performance is no guarantee of future results but my experience has been cars that give you problem early on give you problems later in life so in that case buying the policy may be a prudent way to hedge your bets if you don't want to trade it in right away. Of course in exchange for this period you do give up a bit of leverage if you are planning on buying a manufactor extended warrente.
There is also other factors that are considered in setting rates. Depending on the policy, some vehicles will never make claims due to being wrecked and totaled, the owner dies, the policyholder fails to maintain the vehicle, the vehicle is sold and the warranty is not/cannot be transferred.
In my situation, one major repair in 100,000 miles will cover the cost of the warranty. I do agree, that dealing with warranty companies and mechanics are such a hassle (along with the huge losses in the stock market the last few years) that the money in the mason jar in the backyard may be a good idea.
Their labor and pension costs [mostly unfunded] are killing them as is their lack of productivity.
http://www.fordtechs.com/survey.asp
http://flatratetech.com/pub102.htm
http://flatratetech.com/pub104.htm
What does all this have to do with warranty, the unions are in process of organizing technicans.
Doubtful that they could cheapen the line more than they already have done......Paper and glue cars are next you really don't need metal.
The one warranty I can still get will cost me $1,850 for 2 years. What do yu think guys??? The warranty is from National Auto Care Corporation.
Henri
Are there any fees to pay for?
Any cancellation provisions and requirements should be in the contraxt you received when you purchased. Every company is different in terms of how they handle cancellations - some pay in full, some pro-rate.
kcram
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I just need some advice on extended warranties... or whatever you want to call them... are they worth it or no?
If they are worth it, can I get some guidance on where to go for the best deal?
Thanks much
Thanks in advance
$1,000 may be enough for a Honda or Camary 4 cylinder or a small pickup but I doubt it. Only if they exclude a lot of things that wear out slowly [rubber isolators and hoses belts, wear and tear items, tires, brakes,].
The other problems are how to force owners to pay for a level of fluid/system maintenance that will assure the vehicles longevity and not allow claims.
People who make a living studying these things have concluded that some where around 7 cents [5-10 cents range depending on vehicle]per mile from day one is necessary but few owners pay out $7,000 in repairs and preventative maintenance over 100,000 miles of use. So the car becomes worn and repairs are just waiting to happen. From 100k to 200k the cost can almost double to 12 cents per mile on lux V8 cars.
Not checking alignment and keeping tires balanced can wear rotors, suspension bushings, and wheel bearing from the excess vibration.......is that not the owners fault.
http://www.jsonline.com/wheels/peak/apr03/131172.asp
http://www.stretcher.com/stories/990308e.cfm
Just purchased 03 Honda Accord Sedan 6 cylinder in California. Looking for an extended warranty of 6/100K w/ no deductible. Honda is willing to give it to me for 855 dollars, while Warranty Direct can give me 1122 dollars. However, Warranty Direct claims that it has 3 better advantages than Honda.
1) I can take it to any repair shops (which I'm just gonna to Honda anyway..so this is not a real benefit)
2) They said they " offer a broader level of coverage commonly called wear-and-tear. [Honda] only offer mechanical breakdown. In short, we will cover a much broader range of repairs than they will."
3) "[Warranty Direct] offer a bumper-to-bumper coverage. By definition, a bumper-to-bumper plan is exclusionary, that is, it will only list the few components not covered. This is a Federal Trade Commission definition. Typically these include cosmetic, consumable and maintenance items. If a plan lists the items that are covered, it is NOT a bumper-to-bumper plan
The Honda plan is a named component coverage. "Named component" coverage plans such Honda provide a list of the parts that are covered. While they may offer a high level of coverage, they are not bumper-to-bumper."
So, I mean..I believe what Warranty Direct is saying...but are they really better? What do you think? Any other companies might be better than them?
I'll never believe that warranty direct, or any other private service contract company, would cover wear items like brake pads, wiper blades and tires.
The only exception is if a brake caliper failed and trashed the brake pads - in that case, the pads would be covered, but not as a wear item.
Sounds like a smoke job to me.
Then came the NWIG fiasco. This bankruptcy by an insurer/administrator can happen to any company. Warranty Gold has been in the business for a great number of years. My dealer had a lot of praises for it. After the NWIG problem, Warranty Gold has paid no one and have not returned by money that I paid (even though I cancelled within their 60 day review period). This can happen to any 3rd party company.
My suggestion is to go with the Manufacturer's plan. Once I get my money back from WG (a big if), I am planning to get the best deal with the Chrysler's plan. You may want to check whether Honda Care has an exclusionary plan. I know Chrysler does. When I bought my minivan from them at the end of January, my dealer did not know of the Exclusionary plan. I found that out myself.
Car_man
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"I'll never believe that warranty direct, or any other private service contract company, would cover wear items like brake pads, wiper blades and tires."
Warrantydirect does not claim to replace tires, wiper blades, etc. I've reviewed their contract on www.warrantydirect.com, and they specifically exclude these items. The "wear and tear" items they refer to are gaskets and seals.
It cost me $1,000 to replace the head gasket on my Accord at 95,000 miles -- I wish I'd had a service contract!
I don't care WHERE this service contract company gets their definitions for their "contracts", there's not a service department/shop in the world that considers a headgasket a "wear item".
In the service business community (and I am a court-certified automotive expert allowed (127 times) to testify as an expert in automotive repair and maintenance) "wear items" are wiper blades, brake pads, tires, light bulbs, etc. Period. Again.
Run away, quickly, from any company that lists seals and gaskets as wear items.
The only possible exception is a dealer-sponsored warranty provided for someone who never travels, but still a factory-backed program is better all around.
Unfortunately, that is like asking what the invoice price is on an oil change. While cars have the whole MSRP/Monroney label regulation and publically released invoices, the extednded warranty is not part of the car and is not subject to the same release of information. The best thing you can do is shop around - all VW dealers can sell you the factory plan, so call a few and ask about the same coverage.
kcram
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http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/chi-0308300254aug30,1,253598.s- tory
The moral of the story is, take care of your car and pocket any money you'd put towards an extended warranty. You'll be better off in the end if you simply pay for your repairs when the situation demands.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/auto_warranty/
Just stick with OE warranties. My cousin got one for his Honda, well under a grand for 7/100 no ded, I did the same for our Subie.
The manufacturers are more likely to be alive in 7 years, Daewoo and Daihatsu excepted. You also get roadside assistance included, free loaner car (upgraded, we've used this benefit already), and better resale down the road, give our plan to sell with 96k miles. ;-)
Sorry 'bout all the horror stories here, but just wanted to share one positive experience with them.
-juice
I currently have an extended service contract which was purchased from the Ford dealer where I purchase my used car from.
My car currenlty has bearings which "wore" out and a damaged crank shaft which was scratched from the "Worn" out bearings.
The contract specifically states "internally lubricated parts" are covered.
BUT the warranty company REFUSES to cover the bearings becuase they say they were "worn" out.
And since the worn out bearings are not covered, they will not cover/repair the crankshaft which was damged by the uncovered bearings.
Please, is there anything that can be done towards service contracts and legality.
It specifically states the parts (interannly lubicated) parts ARE covered, but it's totally contradicted by the company saying "worn" items are not covered.
How can an illegal warranty be disputed??
Please help.
The repair costs were estimated aroudn 2k.
Please direct me to help.
-draknad
No offense, but this another real, great, tried and true reason NOT to buy an aftermarket (private) service contract.
Repair only $2,000 is pretty low for a crank and its bearings -----4-6 cylinder? What about the rod bearings and piston wrist pins and piston rings, bores?
Thank you for replying to the post.
Yes, I need to supply more details.
Yes, the dealership asked me to supply them with all the service reciepts of oil maintenance.
I supplied them with all reciepts, maybe tad bit longer 5-6k consistent changes.
Details:
Car: 98 Ford SVT contour
Engine: 2.5 liter 6
miles: 92,700 miles
bought used: 57,000 miles
extended warranty: 3 years, 36000 miles warranty.
rod bearings and piston wrist pins and piston rings, bores?:
where not mentioned, sorry dunno
started hearing rattling noise,above 4k rpm, in engine area.
brought in,
dealership:
said $400 labor would be charged if not covered by warranty company.
warranty company:
sent inspector out (after 2weeks)
After many calls to warranty company and dealership, same response was:
Warranty covers only "breakdowns"
"the bearings were not spun"
so it is not considered a "breakdown"
"bearings look worn" from normal wear
another answer was "driving habits"
Is there anything, umm anywhere to dispute this warranty practice?
It's just so contradictary.
And obvisouly does not sound correct to me.
When I read a warranty's covered items(internally lubricated)
I would expect them to be covered if they go bad.
Crazy!
-draknad
2k not bad, but I still owe 4k on the car, and plus 2k, means it worth 6k total to me.
If I was to trade in, 6k would just break even for me.
I heard AAA could possibly be some support?
Please help.
Thanks.
I did ask for service records when I purchased the car, but did not recieve any records.
If the dealer is required by the warranty company for service records, I'd hope they would be able to provide these records better than I.
But the answer is, no, I do not know how this car was driven or maintained before me.
But how can this be disputed?
Or how are extended warranty plans controlled for "scams"
What can I do to fight this.
Umm, how can I prove bearings should not wear out below 100k?
OR prove that these are not wear items and should be covered?
Thank you.
-draknad
If I need to move it, I'd use my AAA privilages.
They can tow it just about cross country I think.
-draknad
Just sue both the dealer [who sold the policy] and the extended service contract company in small claims court SEPARATELY.......maybe you'll recover something?
That's the problem service contracts are written without inspection on a gamble that the used car will last to 100k or they can figure some way to not pay out much!
Private service contracts are NOT warranties, by law and as the law precribes for recourse. Without a warranty, all you have is the question of whether a covered area claim was paid or not. If the service contract company says the circumstances don't meet the standards for coverage, you're in the wind.
How in the world do you measure "abuse/neglect"?
In fact, I passed their abuse standard.
I've given them all my service reciepts, which pass and qualify for non-abuse.
And they have not mentioned "oil change frequency"
as any reason at all.
What is "unusual wear"
And how is this measured.
I've given them my service reciepts.
So how can they have a base to stand on?
What and where is their base???
An illusionary term, with no measurement???
Getting outraged by just typing this.
Crazy..!
-draknad