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Maintenance & Repair Costs

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Comments

  • tdh43tdh43 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for responding to my question. The dealer service departments need to generate revenue and this is one way they try to do it. You just need to be careful not to over look something that might be important.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    REad your owners manual, specifically the maintenance schedule portion. It should tell you when/milage to do all the maintenance.

    Honda do have a 36,000 mile/3 year brake fluid flush.

    Different cars have different schedules.
  • tdh43tdh43 Member Posts: 4
    I've not seen either of these items called for in the owner's manual.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    My 2002 Accord had a 36,000 mile brake flush on its maintenance schedule.

    I had never flushed brakes on a car I owned, but I paid Honda to do this to be sure the extended warranty wouldn't give me a problem
  • kim771kim771 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I have an appointment tomorrow at a local shop but I wanted to ask for advice here, too!

    I have a 2002 Ford Taurus that over the past several months makes a thud-thud-thud noise from the front left tire area when applying the brakes and turning - ESPECIALLY when going down a hill and the steering wheel shakes. I had a friend who is a part-time mechanic tell me that he thinks it is a bad C/V joint...5 years ago I had the inner tie rods replaced...could it be that again? I also hear the thud-thud-thud when going over 45mph.

    I have read so much about what the problem MAY be that my head is spinning. If it is a C/V joint then why does the noise only occur when applying the brakes...or does it sound like a warped rotor? Any thoughts are very much appreciated! I am going to a brand new mechanic tomorrow and I am so afraid (being a girl) that I am going to get ripped off! Thanks!
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    This is what it said in the 2007 CRV Manual

    Replace the brake fluid according to the maintenance messages shown on the information display.

    Note: Independent of the maintenance items in the information display, replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
  • ravdravd Member Posts: 3
    Hello.
    I hope to soon sell (or possibly trade in) my 1996 Acura Integra GS-R (70,000 miles). However, currently it needs a new radiator and other parts. My local auto shop has given me a bid of $700 for parts and labor.

    Should I have them repair it before I try to sell or trade it? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Why does it need a new radiator? Leaking?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the car is overheating or leaking this will show up on the test drive and buyers will low ball the car by more than $700. So sure, you'd best get it fixed.

    If this is just a maintenance item ("looks a little cruddy in there, etc") and the car runs fine, you might just mention the needs for service if you wish but not repair it.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    The fact that you asked the question you asked, suggests that you're an ethical person, ravd. I believe the rule of thumb should be to treat potential buyers as you'd want to be treated if you were the buyer. This code of conduct supports Mr._Shiftright's sage advice, which in essence gives you two choices; repair the problem or disclose it.
  • carhelp88carhelp88 Member Posts: 8
    I recently pulled out of a gas station and the passenger door got caught on something and the front part of the door got pulled outward. Mainly when I open but also when I close the door I hear a loud noise as the door is rubbing on the fender. How can I fix this? If I go to take it to get repaired will it cost alot of money? The door shuts fine and the only problem is that its pulled outward. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I would take your car to a body shop for an estimate. this will probably be expensive knowing what a good body shop charges these days.

    If you have insurance you may be able to just pay the deductable.

    If the car is a beater you might be able to have a 300 lb buddy try to wrestle the door back into position and just live with it the way it is.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I don't know if all body shops are willing to do this sort of thing, but you could ask the body shop to just fix it enough so rubbing does not occur. I had an older car that my daughter damaged and I had the shop just replace the one headlight that was smashed and adjust the dented hood enough so it would open/close and latch. I put the rest of the insurance money in my pocket and dropped collision/comprehensive coverage at that point. She drove it with a dented hood and damaged bumper for many years.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Without more info your not going to get very good responses. What kind of cooling problems? What do you mean "engine change to hybrid"? Do you mean change a non-hybrid to a hybrid? I wouldn't even want to try to think about that!
  • needvanneedvan Member Posts: 2
    I am in market for changing front bumper replacement and passenger side turn light, on Camry LE 4dr, 4cyl.

    I want to know what could go wrong if I decide to go for Aftermarket bumpers and turn light, as against reconditioned OEM. The difference in price huge. Higher-end Body shops are de-selling aftermarkets, saying the aftermarkets don't fit as good and can leak gas/resin/oil after a while, resulting in bubble under paint.

    Any suggestions, experiences...

    thanks
    PK
  • footdoc1footdoc1 Member Posts: 2
    Could anyone comment on whether it is worth the $650 the dealer wants to charge for the Audi Care New Vehicle Plan with the purchase of a new A4? It is supposed to cover the costs of the "required" 15K, 25K, 35K and 45K maintenance services? The Plan nor dealer describe what services are required? If it's just an oil change, it's obviously not worth it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Once again, I must say 'Read the Maintenance Section of the Owner's Manual'. This will specifically indicate what should be done when.

    But since this is a new car, I bet all these manuals are locked in a vault in the dealership, and cannot be shown to a potential buyer because of some copyright law. And, to protect the sale of the $650 policy.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I'm sure you can find the maintenance schedule in a number of places. I know that VW schedules are available at vw.com, so I imagine Audi's would also be available through the Audi website. You could also click on "tips and advice" on edmunds.com and then click on "maintenance costs".

    But I would think before handing over $650 in advance, I'd ask to see a list of specifically what this would cover.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You already sited some of the potential problems with aftermarket body parts. In my opinion the bigger decision is choosing the right body shop. If you use a reputable body shop, they'll do a professional job and stand behind their work. Also they will use the parts they are comfortable and have had success using in the past.
  • footdoc1footdoc1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I checked the Audi web site. No info other than what the dealer told me that it is for whatever is typically done at 15K, 25K, 35k and 45k miles. I figure the dealer always makes out, just like a casino. I purchased my A4 without it, since the salesman told me I could buy it prior to 15K miles at the going rate. There may be a description in the owners manual when i pick up the car tomorrow.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I figure the dealer always makes out

    Yeah, I tend to stay away from prepaid things, whether it be for maintenance or an extended warranty.

    Another thing is I have seen some Audi's in for service at our VW dealer, so you can probably save some on maintenance costs if you do that.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Shifty, with the growing number of hybrids on the road and new models on the way,
    I would like to suggest introducing a new topic in this forum, "Hybrid Maintenance and Repair."

    I believe this topic is relevant and timely because it would provide a forum for current hybrid owners, as well as for the millions who are considering the purchase of hybrids. Many people, me included, would like to know what we're getting into, in terms of cost-to-own and related issues associated with hybrid vehicles, before considering one.

    In my opinion this topic would be more appropriate as a "Maintenance and Repair" discussion than a "Hybrid Vehicles" discussion, but you'd be the best judge of where it should be placed.
  • newmdx1newmdx1 Member Posts: 10
    I need to get my front and rear brake pads replaced and the rotors (on all 4 wheels) turned.

    I received 2 quotes - 1 for $599 and the other for $630. That seems really high to me.

    I have a 2003 Buick Rendevous.

    Anyone know if i am getting ripped off?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Call an autoparts store, ask how much the two sets of brake pads are (for both front and back axles), as well as 4 new rotors (personally, I wouldn't cut the old ones down). The difference between parts cost and your quotes is the labor. It would probably take about an hour of time to do that job.

    By the way, do you really need rotors? If the brake pads wore down and you had metal pad backing to metal rotor scratching...then yes. That would be a grinding noise when stopping. If you have warped rotors, felt as a pulsation felt in the brake pedal while stopping, then yes. If you don't have either of those 2 problems, would question why that's needed.?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I agree with Kiawah in that I would not turn the rotors. You can buy new ones for (probably) less than $50/ea. You can also browse on-line at one of the many auto parts stores there to get an idea of price for rotors and pads.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah sure, fire away and open that topic. Did you have a particular hybrid in mind or would you include all of them into a general topic? We could ask Karen to link it to the Hybrids Forums as well.

    Let me see what we have already. Hold on.....

    Okay we don't have a generalized "hybrid maintenance and repair" topic. We do have some discussion of certain systems on certain hybrids, but that's it.

    Here's a view of what we have:

    Hybrid Topics

    So here's what you do:

    Open this topic up in the M&R forum (see link at top of this page)

    then define in response #1 what you want the topic to be about

    then after posting it, e-mail me or karen (karen@edmunds.com) so that we can link it to the Hybrids Forum
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    "So here's what you do:

    Open this topic up in the M&R forum (see link at top of this page)..."

    Thanks, but the problem is that the link for opening a new discussion doesn't appear on my Maintenance & Repair screen. I've observed that this omission occurs sometimes, although usually the link for opening a new discussion is available. Anyhow, that's why I haven't been able to do it. Has anyone else mentioned this? Do you have any suggestions regarding how I can obtain a link for adding a discussion?

    Thanks for your assistance on this matter.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ack...my bad. I forgot that in this forum we don't let members open up their own topics because we had so many "one question topics" that petered out after that one question was answered.

    Anyway, tell me what you'd like the title to read and what you'd like the topic to be about, and I'll start it up. Then you can go into response #2 or so and get it rolling.

    Also we'll link it back to Hybrids so it will appear on their topic list as well, and so some of those people might jump in.

    You can e-mail me if you'd like: mr_shiftright@edmunds.com

    best

    Shifty
  • uzifleeuziflee Member Posts: 2
    Hey Guys, I got a Combo Dilemna, any Suggestions on Repairing and how much I am looking at in $$ would be great too.

    Ok, I have a 1988 Honda Civic, 96,000 miles and she runs beautifully. Just one little problem, the Person I got the Car from had it sitting in their Yard for a couple of Years after her Father passed, it was his Car. Long Story short, the Car had been sitting in Water for all that time and I knew it had serious Rust Damage underneath. I always joked and said that this Car will run until one Day I'll be driving along and the Body of the Car will just fall apart.... well, it did kinda..last Night I was pulling out the old Carpet, and along with it came the whole Floor Board, just started breaking in large Chunks. After cleaning and removing all damaged Area I ended up with most of the Drivers Side Flooring gone, it runs Driver's Side Door, up just underneath the Brake and Gas Pedals. Needs full Piece approx. 2' x 4' of Metal.
    Soooo, take it away, I am clueless here...HELP....!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Given that the car has no real frame other than the body/tub, I'd venture that the car is not safe to drive and should be parted out. You can certainly find clean '88s for not much money, and if you find one with a bad engine, that car would practically be free. So that's the way I'd go if I were you.
  • uzifleeuziflee Member Posts: 2
    OMG......you mean this is not being judged for Creativity Writing Skills and FANTASTIC Humor...???? hmmm

    Since you are more equipped with Knowledge and Experience I will gladly let you catagorize accordingly.

    Please feel free to email me at uziflee@comcast.net.

    Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay Uzi....WHATEVER..... :P
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've read bigger whoppers on here.

    A fellow worker also drove a Chevy for several years where you could look thru a hole under his feet to the road. Of course, this car did have a full frame.

    Same guy also didn't do any filter maintenance on his home furnance. It got so dirty and stopped the normal flow of air that the fan pulled the flame off the burner and out the front of the furnance, fortunately burning up all the wiring and shutting inself down before setting the house on fire.

    Another fellow worker didn't quite understand the need for filter maintenance on his auto, and after who know how many miles, the filter totally blew off the car.

    People otherwise pretty smart do stupid things, especially with their autos.

    P.S. I agree, try to find a salvage auto without a motor and do a transplant. Or sell this one for salvage. Or, try to find a very good welder that will take on the job constructing and welding in new floor pans, both side, front and rear. When people do restorations of 'classic' cars, repairs like this are done all the time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah but you could buy a 1988 Honda body from a wrecking yard for dirt cheap. You could buy an entire running 1988 Honda for dirt cheap.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    A few decades ago I had one of those Flintstone cars you speak of. Just get the appropriate size'd piece of sheet metal and liquid nails the thing down. Throw a floor mat over top... good as new.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Too freaky with a heavily rusted unibody. I've seen them break in HALF in a collision.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Is there any reason not to expect any other 20 year old Civic to be rusting away, as well?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Depends where you live I guess.

    I think any 20 year old car should be checked for structural problems, especially cracking in areas near suspension anchoring points. Automakers never intended for modern cars to last 20 years and as a rule they don't percentage-wise get even close to that.

    I'd include a safety check as part of the maintenance of any car that old--visually, and giving it a "nut and bolt" as we say---tightening and testing every fastener in sight.
  • robd543robd543 Member Posts: 2
    I moved my car this morning and a piece of metal attached to a rope got caught under the top of hood. Unfortunately, I did not notice it and pulled out the driveway. The damage can be seen in these pictures. Any advice on the best way to go about fixing it? Maybe even a DIY? Hopefully so I do not have to pay for a brand new hood. I am not too concerned with it being perfect, but I would like to get it somewhat back to normal.

    Any advice is much appreciated

    front view

    side view
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,146
    Those pictures don't show up. The links are to carforum.com. They request a signin.

    You could put the pictures on a picture hosting forum such as photobucket.com (free accounts) and link to them here. Or you can put the pictures onto your carspace account here on edmunds (upper left corner of the page has a link to "MyCarspace") and link to them in a post.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • robd543robd543 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry try this

    http://s540.photobucket.com/albums/gg348/robd543/
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Looks like anything you do now will make it look worse than it is. Doesn't look bad enough to require the hood to be replaced. I'd take it to three shops and see what the price is to fix it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say the hood has to come off, straightened and totally repainted. Blending in a hood is tricky business and it doesn't look like they can "work" it since it's so close to the windshield.

    This will not be a cheap repair.
  • mossamossa Member Posts: 4
    I had 2001 highlander,lately the A/C stopped working, to fix it they ask for $700 dollars. Would help me out guys thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Depends on what's wrong. If it just has a leak and needs a recharge, that's too much money. Even if you need a new dryer, that's $55 bucks + 2 hours labor + testing + new refrigerant...still doesn't come out to $700. What components are they suggesting you replace here?
  • mossamossa Member Posts: 4
    Thanks,Mr Shiftright.
    They are sug gestind to replace the whole A/C systeme,is there any solution?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They couldn't replace the "whole system" for $700, so that can't be right.

    The main components are

    compressor
    evaporator
    receiver/dryer
    condenser
  • mossamossa Member Posts: 4
    What are you suggesting in my case to do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have them write you out an estimate of all the work they plan to do, and the charges and post them here.
  • mossamossa Member Posts: 4
    I have made same researche and i found out the probleme is the compressor,so how much you think it's going cost.
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