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Dodge Ram - II
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Comments
just keep it on 65 and let it run. shouldn't give you any problems.
kcram
If a diesel could actually turn as fast as a gas engine, it would not be able to hit redline then. diesel can't burn that fast. saying that a diesel can hold speed at redline isn't really saying much--they're too very different animals.
The engine itself can "probably" hold up just fine over redline. its the combustion process that can't keep up. thats when the torque REALLY falls off on the diesel.
Brett
You're correct on the heavier duty diesels, of which the Cummins is one. Disele technology is doing some interesting things lately, with common rail delivery, and other advancements. The BMW 4.0L V8 diesel puts out an incredible (for its displacement) 413 lb-ft of torque, and runs all the way to 4000 rpm.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
You only thing we differ on is the store routine. I agree you have to alter things a little, but if I have to run to the store for something, that certainly doesn't qualify as a "good run" for the engine, and in my case, it's not even warm yet, so I just shut it off, period.
Most of the time however, to go a mile or two to the store, I just take the wife's car. I have a Security/Remote Auto-Start system on mine, which does come in handy for a quick drop-in for a bagel or a carton of milk. I just hit the right buttons, remove my key from the ignition and leave it running with the cab locked. Your basic points are not in dispute. You do have to alter the normal, "anytime,anywhere, any condition" operating circumstances that you have with the gas engine.
As for trading every three years? Must be nice...
rk
That was interesting. I bought this one as my retirement truck. I plan on retiring from "full time" at 56, if everything goes as planned. After this truck, anything else under my feet is used.
I just traded my 94 1500 Ram 4x4 for this new 3500 /4x4/Cummins/QC. My 1500 was in perfect condition with 80K, and I honestly felt bad trading it off. But I didn't want to wait another couple of years before getting another, otherwise I would still have payments after I retire, which I am trying not to do. If the timing was different, I really feel I had another good 5 or 6 years left in that 1500, it was a beautiful truck without a rattle in it. ( It probably had more, but eventually the wallpaper has to be changed...)
Anyhow, your perspective is an interesting option, and I'm willing to bet you get some responses from those with calculators nearby.
thanks,
rk
Forgot to add that I figured with the galvinized body and the long-life Cummins, it should last me quite a few years. I hope so...
Sorry if you already read this under the 2000 Ram topic, but I wanted to reach everyone.
I am waiting to see about the ETH/6 speed manual (anybody?), so I can order my 2000 2500 QC LB Diesel. I definately want the diesel/manual drivetrain. I will do 95% of my driving without towing and mostly highway miles. With the new tires that you said come with the 2000 model, which rear-end would you recommend? Thanks.
DJ
I doubt it makes a difference, but I forgot to say I'm getting 4 wheel drive also. Thanks again.
DJ
Without a doubt, get the 4.10 limited slip - you will have a permanent grin on your face. The ratios are beautifully spaced - gears 2 through 6 are like 1 through 5 on a sports sedan.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
That Security / Remote Auto Start system you mentioned above sounds like just the ticket! I too tend to have short runs and would prefer to leave the truck running. I currently have two sets of keys and leave one in the ignition while taking the other with me. But, as someone pointed out to me, it might be a problem with the insurance Co. leaving a key in the ignition. Could you give me some info on this system you have in your truck? Feel free to email me instead of posting here if you want. Thanks.
Brett
(Brett039@yahoo.com)
thanx in advance, EricG.
The transmission (I assume you mean the automatics) is really just a mtter of maintenance, although the diesels do have a TSB for a reflash of the computer to alleviate 3rd and 4th excessive locking and unlocking of the torque converter. My automatic has been fabulous, but I also live by the 12,000 mile service.
The brakes are still a hit-or-miss thing - you may get really good brakes - some have gone well into the 30s mileage wise, or you may swap them annually. Many like the improved feel of Performance Friction pads and shoes, but they do wear out quicker than the factory-issue.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
As the undisputed most knowledgeable Dodge gear head around, I now have a dilema. Here's the story:
Last week I ordered a 2000 RAM 2500 Quad Cab 4WD with the V10/auto trans (Couldn't afford all the goodie options AND the Diesel). Earlier you stated your recomendation is all V10's and Diesels should get the 4:10 rear end.
My order was with the standard 3:54 axle. I will be using the truck as my daily commuter to work (less than 10 miles) as well as occasional hauling (both in the truck and w/utility trailer), but no HEAVY hauling (yet). In the next year or two I may add a camper, trailer, and/or boat to play with. SOooo, do you think the 4:10 is still the best gearing option for me? I think (hope) its not too late to change the order.
Second, the '99 option list from this site says the 4:10 axle is not available with the 28G package. My 2000 has the 28H package which is essentially the 28G with leather/radio/pwr-heated left and right seats, etc. Do you know if the 4:10 is available with the 28H.
On behalf of myself, and all those who become better informed from your infinite wisdom, I thank you
Sorry for all the shameless sucking up. I just need some good advice.
Thanx in advance,
Eric G.
If you have also ordered the 265/75 tires, then yes, I say go for the 4.10s. If you are getting the smaller 245/75s, then your 3.54 will be just fine.
The reason I make this distinction is, the larger tires with 4.10s will give you the a much better compromise between power and economy.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
The dealer service at 12K will include dropping and cleaning the pan, flush and refill fluid, new filter, clean the screen, adjust the bands, and changing the pan gasket. It seems excessive at every 12K, but the high torque of the V10 and Cummins make it a necessity because those engines are right at the torque limits of the 47RE transmission.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
Just keep your receipts - whether you have a shop do it or you do it in the driveway (then the receipts would be for the parts you bought). The only time the warranty will come into play is if an oil-related failure can be traced to obvious neglect (original factory filter after a year, "mud" instead of oil, etc.).
One thing you do need to be careful about is using the correct weight oil. I don't have the info in front of me, but don't use 10W30 if the manual says 5W30. The heavier oil will not flow as quickly, and can lead to excessive wear at start-up.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
I seem to be missing something with your 4:10 recomendation (I am getting the 265/75 tires). When I look at your comparison chart (#46) lets assume I am towing at 65mph with OD off. with the 3:54 ratio I am turning about 2500RPM's, with the 4:10 it would be around 2900RPM. Since you state HP and torque drop significantly between 2700 and 3200 RPM wouldnt the 3:54 keep me in a better RPM range for available torque? Also with the fuel hungry V10, how much performance do I lose for the added mileage the 3:54 would bring to the table? Thanks.
rocketjock
In your case, you would not be losing power - it's the diesel that drops off after 2700 (it's governed at 3200). The V10 uis getting up to maximum torque around 2800 and can rev up to 4000 with no trouble. Sorry if I didn't make that clearer earlier
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
Does anyone have a clue as to why the Dodge Ram tail end bounces between 40 & 45 mph. I have
driven 4 different rams over the past few weeks,
and they all do this (some more, some less). My 97 Ram 1500 also did this, and it seemed to get worse with age. My new 99 Ram 1500 also does this. There has been some discussion of changing the shocks, but they should not be worn out on a brand new truck. I have also considered upgrading to slightly larger tires, and I wonder if this will have any affect. Any tips or pointers would be appreciated. Thanks!!
If I put in my order for a 3500 with a diesel and six speed, and I ask the dealer to enter the TCH code for the high output diesel, will I run the risk of getting the TCE or will they simply put the order on hold until the engine is available? Enjoy reading your posts.
Many Ram oweners have great success with Rancho 9000 shocks because of their adjustable damping. On a low numeric setting, the empty Ram will bounce MUCH less. The factory shocks have to be a compromise between loaded and unloaded damping.
balvert,
If you try to order the ETH (high output engine) right now, your order would simply be rejected by the factory. If that's the engine you really want, you're better off waiting until DaimlerChrysler announces that ordering is open for that engine.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
I have heard a lot about the RS9000. I may give them a try some time when I have some extra pocket change. Seems like the Dodge Boyz could figure a way to reduce this bounce. It's occurring on "perfectly" smooth roads. Thanks for the info. David
I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to, but my 98 Ram 4x4 has a very subtle bounce right at 45 mph. It feels kinda like a tire balance problem but I have balanced the tires numerous times at different places to no avail. It did it with the original tires as well as my second set of BFG 285's. You can only feel it on perfectly smooth roads as it is so slight. I figure it must be either a warped wheel or out of balance drive shaft. I eventually got used to it and didn't pursue it further. I have a 2000 Ram V10 due in in a couple of weeks. The 2500 V10 I test drove did not do it. I'm hoping my new on will not. Good luck.
They are body-color in the sport package.
Maybe a stumper for you KC?
(Probably not though)
inserts that sit behind the two front bumper openings on trucks with the SLT package.
What purpose do they serve? I was reading that some of the improvments to the 99' model was improved sight shields. Whatever that means!
Thanks for any info.
Scott
You hit the nail on the head. I do find it hard to believe that every new truck I test drove had a bent wheel or out of balance drive shaft. Sounds like some type of harmonic vibration within the drive train. Just try to get Dodge to fix that!!? I may try changing shocks to see if this eliminates the smooth road bounce. Sounds like tire balance/change out will not help. Just like you, I may have to live with it. Otherwise, the truck feels really solid and well built. Keep me posted as to whether your new truck does the same thing. Thanks. David.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
KC danced around my question rather talentedly.
So, what purpose do these things serve?
Scott
I have a 99 quad cab and have not noticed your problem. I have noticed that on cement roads that have a expansion joint ever 15 ft or so that she will do a little bouncing. You do not notice the ridges is the road unless you are really looking for them.
Are you test driving all of these Rams of the same road? Try a differnet road surface maybe that is more the issue than the truck.
What is the largers 10 inch wide tire you can put on a 1500 4x4 99? 33s?
Also, has anyone lifted their dodge to put on 35s?
If so what type of lift and ave. cost.
First: I have a 99 4X4 quad cab, short box diesel, auto and 3:54 rear. Under load (Towing) the trans does not seem to want to upshift from 2nd to 3rd under light throttle. It hangs at 2,000 rpm until you give it enough throttle to increase boost, then it shifts into 3rd, 4th, then lock-up. Is there aftermarket kits to allow upshifts under light throttle? I have found that even letting off will not cause a upshift. I have talked to B&D and they of course said change the torque converter, valve body and an electronic kit that locks up the TQ at 25 and above, to the tune of ~$1,000. Dr. Performance has done a Phase III on the truck, and an reluctant to have the Dealer reprogram the anything as the Phase III did a recurve on the ECM. The DYNO readout has 269 HP at the rear wheels. Runs GOOOOOOD!!
Second: The trans cooler lines go to a, either a heat exchanger or expansion chamber, that is under the exhaust manifold. What is this thing and what is its purpose?
Thanks
About towing in 3rd or OD. Manual states: OD is OK, if it starts hunting back and forth, take OD off. The Dr. Performance people said, best to take it out of OD on long hills, or when it starts losing speed. Either let slow down or drop out of OD.
wildman
I assume you are referring to the 1500 series. If so, and if you have the "standard" chromed steel welded rims ( not the alloy machined versions ), then I would elevate each wheel and check axial runout (side to side) and radial runout. I had these wheels on my Ram 1500 and experienced the shaking you have described.
Mine exceeded the factory specs and required over 10 oz's of weights to counteract the effect.
Problem was defective welding warping the steel.
Dealer tried 3 more (new) sets of these wheels on a Coates balancer, all were out of spec and wobbled. Ended up buying a new set of machined alum. wheels and problem was gone. Maximum wieght required per wheel was 1.5 oz. Dealer paid for 'em.
kcram,
Are the Rancho 9000 series shocks applicable to the 3500 Rams 4x4's?
rk
The sight shields simply form a mount for the fog lights. On the old trucks (pre 1994), the term "sight shields" actually referrred to the front bumper guards (remember bumper guards???).
wildman,
your first: also check out TST Products for a very commonly used uprate for the Dodge automatic.
your second: let me verify what that is for you, and I'll get back to you.
rk,
Yes, the 9000s are available for 3500 4x4 - mine are on the way.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
Are you still scheduled for 9/1 ship date on your V10? I was scheduled for 8/24 but found out today that it has been pushed back 3 weeks to 9/14. Still sitting at D1.
Just a clarification. The problem mentioned is relevant to the chromed, welded steel rims only, NOT the machined alloy version.
I do have the forged aluminum wheels, but the possibility still exists that they are not within spec. Did you test for axial and radial runout yourself? I would think the only way to do this would be to put both ends of the truck up on jack-stands. Not the safest endeavor in a residential garage! If your dealer did this for you, do you know exactly what he did. Thanks again for the feedback. David
I'll check with them Mon and let you know.
Then I paid my local Goodyear Rep to use his shop and 1 man for a bit. I indicated the runout on his Coates machine spindle to verify it was true before beginning, and had the Goodyear guy remove all the tires on all four wheels. I marked each wheel, and indicated the runout on these wheels, and documented this data, which I then presented to my dealer, along with my video that I took of the process. Hope this helps.
rk