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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems

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Comments

  • u2canhave1u2canhave1 Member Posts: 2
    I have been trying to diagnose an issue I have with my 03 Denali XL. The rear speakers have no sound coming from them. In addition, the rear audio (head phones) do not have any sound coming from them when they are plugged in. I thought that the channel had been blown on my amp and replaced it only to find that was not the issue. I am wondering if it may be the head unit rear channels. The front speakers (door speakers, Tweeters, and Subwoofer) all play fine. The other possibility I have thought about is the rear audio control. It is as if the rear audio controls have been activated and only the rear speakers have been muted. Issue with this theory is the fact that the rear audio controls do not work either. Any idea’s how I can diagnose this issue?
  • jj_hanebuthjj_hanebuth Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 yukon denali. i just bought it 1 month ago. i was on my way to a different town today and on the highway it was having problems when i hit the gas. once the denali reached 55 mph thats when it was having problems. it would chug or act like it was gonna die on me. after getting up to 70 mph and it still happening for the next few miles i just decided to turn around and come home. i had to drive 50 mph all the way home so it wouldnt chug. oh and i just put 50 dollars in gas so i know it not that. any ideas? please help. thanks
  • mrbuilder1013mrbuilder1013 Member Posts: 1
    ive check tran. fluid its fine.if anyone has a solution please inform.the truck goes forward but wont move in reverse.help anyone if you have similar problem or solutions.thanks
  • jasonmacejasonmace Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 2005 yukon denali. It turned out to be the seal between the transmission and transfer case. I didn't notice a leak either but every time I get a oil change I have them top of the fluids.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    As far as your mirrors go, they probably disconnected the battery while working on it and you need to go into the driver information center and reselect the mirror tilt-down option.
  • thatworksthatworks Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what the knocking noise was? Mine does the exact same thing. after about 20-30 minutes of driving it sounds like it is binding up when I turn and loud knocking with a funky grabbing then letting go feeling. HELP. :sick:
  • thatworksthatworks Member Posts: 2
    Hey there, my Denali has started making the same noises you described only after driving awhile (20-30min) did you ever find out what was wrong?

    Thanks! :cry:
  • ma2skma2sk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Yukon and for a couple of years now there has been a loud popping somewhere in the steering column. It has became louder and worse over the past couple of years. Of course this problem didn't pop up until my warranty expired. I took it to a local mechanic who couldn't figure out what the problem was. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, did they find out what was causing and how to fix it? I sure could use all the help I can get.

    I am also having problems with the air conditioner. For no reason at all it will start blowing hot hot air. It will be working fine one moment and then poof the hot air comes. I live in Texas so we use our air conditioners a lot! :confuse:
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    I think the loud popping sound has to do with the Intermediate Shaft (or I-Shaft), it can be heard as well as felt (if I am not mistaken) in the steering wheel and/or the steering column area. Hope I am still on track to what you have experienced so far. If yes, you may verify and consider the possibility of replacing the Upper I-Shaft Assembly (Bulletin #00-02-35-003M), where I recall quite a few GM vehicles were affected in addition to those I can recall below:
    2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
    2003-2006 HUMMER H2
    The replacement I-Shaft Part Number is: 19153614

    Make sure that is indeed the problem, and Good Luck!
  • capnjakcapnjak Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. This is my first post to this site, so hopefully it will be helpful. I own a 2001 yukon xl denali that I bought in feb of 08. Everything worked except a/c. I was told it was too cold to check but it did work. Last week with the warmer weather I tried a/c. Just blows warm air. Checked everything( even all the answers in this site. ) Tried disconnecting battery, all fuses etc. My mechanic checked freon - full. no leaks. He figured it must be compressor. Anyway,long story short, it wasn't the compressor, it was the belt and tensioner. Seams that the tensioner got stuck and wouldn't engage the compressor. My $1400 repair turned into $200. Maybe this isn't your issue, but have a look at the a/c tensioner and belt.
  • kendog2kendog2 Member Posts: 1
    Yes I have I recently purchased the 2007 yukon denali 6.2liter and the keyless sometimes unlocks the rear doors and most of the time it dont. I cant figure it out. It will always unlock the front two but sometimes not the rear ones. ????? If you do please let me know.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Checkout Message #499 from "greggboston" in this discussion, if you have not already.. Not sure what is "doc 1861180" though... perhaps take that information to your dealership for help.
  • domsdenalidomsdenali Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had this problem with their liftgates. I can lock the doors with the remote or from the inside of the truck but the Lift Gate and the Lift Window will not lock. Can anyone help.
  • harleygharleyg Member Posts: 2
    Have you found out what your problem is with the popping and knocking on the frontend of the Denali XL? I have an 02 with the same problem, have replaced both cv axles and wheel bearings, all differental fluids transfercase fluids still knocks and pops when turning right or left after 5-10 miles.
  • umomsumoms Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 GMC Yukon Denali with 95k miles and for the past 2-3 years I have had to replace the rear pads and rotors several times, they last 4-5 months each time.... The front ones are fine... I tried several different aftermarket. What could be causing them to go bad so quick all the time?
  • skytop1skytop1 Member Posts: 106
    Anyone have any good advice for better brake pads for my 2008 Yukon XL Denali?
    Braking can be best described as weak. I will be towing a 3000# boat in about 3 weeks on vacation and I want to upgrade to better pads with better grip so I can stop this sloppy driving SUV before plowing into the car in front of me. Thanks.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    In that 4-5 months, how many miles have you driven before having to replace the pads and rotors?

    In my opinion there are several possible reasons, assuming in the 4-5 months of time you have only driven a few thousand miles (say ~6K to 7K):
    1. Have been using bargain pads and rotors... ???
    2. Caliper Pins/Slides were not properly (or not at all) lubricated, which caused the pads to stick to the rotors.
    3. Have been using old/rusted brake pad retainers, could potentially cause the pads to stick too...
    4. Bad caliper or caliper piston, does not release/retract properly even when the brake paddle is off.
    5. I assume it not the ABS or the Master Cylinder, as you mentioned the front brakes are just fine...

    Hope you find the real cause of this problem soon.
  • ice100ice100 Member Posts: 1
    my 2004 yukon denali has a problem with the drivers side heated seat they come on and go off automatically its been to the dealer 3 times and they still cannot fix the problem any suggestions?
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Sorry, I only can speak for the 2007 model, hopefully its similar to your 2004 Yukon. Each heated seat has a Climate Control Seat Module, operates with seat back and seat cushion temperature sensors. In this case from reading your post "...the drivers side heated seat they come on and go off automatically...", I was not sure if the seat gets to heat-up at all, or it just turns itself off immediately after you turned it on?

    If it turns off immediately after you turned it on, then there may be an over load to the Heated Seat Element, perhaps an electrical short of some kind...? Once in a long long while, it could be related to a faulty Heated Seat Switch... If the seat does get to heat up, but only stayed on for a short time, then there may be an issue with the temperature sensor, or may be the Climate Control Seat Module itself is faulty... A lot of guesses here, I hope your dealer knows better to check all these components at the least. Best Wish!
  • kdemellokdemello Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Denali and it has started making a terrible ticking noise. When I start the rig it is much louder and more intense but then it seems to settle down and find a steady grove of ticking. Does anyone know what this could be caused by and how much its going to cost me to fix it? Is this a common problem with Denali's?
  • tharealesttharealest Member Posts: 3
    This just started happening on my 2003 today. Any ideas what the issue is?
  • tharealesttharealest Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 has a ticking sound like that of a clock pendulum that recently started as well. I have been searching high and low to find its origin. I know it sounds like it's in the dash somewhere but am having a very hard time finding it. HELP please.
  • tharealesttharealest Member Posts: 3
    I found that the issue of whistling came from the hands free phone/onstar mic above head. On mine, there was a ground loop that was found ultimately to be caused by a poorly grounded negative battery cable(to the engine) and loose/stripped negative battery pole bolts.
  • donahuesdonahues Member Posts: 36
    I have a 02 Denali. The only problem I have had in my 93xxx miles is that the seat heaters no longer work (any of them).
  • jdunkasjdunkas Member Posts: 1
    Hi! Love my truck but just ran into a problem today. I have electric running boards. I left the lights on this afternoon and drained the battery. When I got things going again, the running boards do not operate. (In fact the the passenger side runnig board is stuck in the extended position and the driver's side running board is in the retracted position). The fuse is okay yet the button on the center consloe doesn't do anything. Any ideas??
  • jallardjallard Member Posts: 2
    Have a new 2008 Denali w/the 20 inch wheels. As soon I got on the highway noticed a vibration in the steering wheel starting at 55 and getting worse as speed increased. Especially annoying after 65mph. Steering wheel shakes and passengers can feel it. Had 2 front wheels balanced but did not fix the issue. Then had all 4 tires balanced an again did not fix the issue. Now have 2000 miles and am ready to take to dealer but am not looking forward to it. Any idea what may be causing this? Bad rotors, bad shocks, suspension, etc. Is it a known problem that others are having? Any info would help me so when I do take it to dealer I can speak intelligently!
  • jallardjallard Member Posts: 2
    Have a new 2008 Denali with 20 inch rims. On the door jam, it says to inflate tires to 32 psi for this size. On tires it says 40psi. Which is correct. I was told 40 psi so the tires wouldn't cup. Am confused. Wondering if over inflating by 8 psi per tire can cause tire vibration.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    40 is probably the maximum psi for the tire. That doesn't mean you should set it to 40, it just means that's the most it could handle. I typically go with the door jamb recommendation, plus 2-3 psi for slightly better mpg (lower rolling resistance at higher psi). It results in a slightly firmer ride, but still very acceptable. Perhaps slight cupping will result, but I haven't had any problems with that in any of my last four vehicles. I have 17"s, so you'll want to experiment for yourself with your 20"s. Set it to 32, and track your mileage for a month or so. Then go up to say 35 and see if you notice any deterioration in ride quality or significant increase in fuel economy.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Does the sticker on the door jam references the 32 psi with the 20" tire size? If it does, then the 32 psi is the minimum cold tire pressure you want to set at. I agree with ahightower to set the pressure a couple of psi higher than what's suggested on the sticker to gain a little on the mpg. Ultimately, you'll have to find your comfort zone by observing and adjusting the tire pressure you desire between 32 to less than 40 psi.
  • aramcoaramco Member Posts: 3
    Please forgive me if this was too obvious a reply but it took a while, at least for me to learn this: for assuring that the rear doors unlock the keyless button is pressed twice. One press opens the driver's door. The second consecutive press on the button opens the remaining doors..... ....
  • rigatonirigatoni Member Posts: 2
    What was the final resolution to your problem? I have an 02 Denali and just started to have the same problem with the lowbeams not working. They were fine until I switched to highbeams, then when I switched back the lowbeams didn't work. I ended up using the fog lamps to get home. I had changed the bulbs a couple of months ago and they were still good. Not sure what to do next and definitely don't want to go to the dealer for this. It's like an invitation to get raked over the coals!
  • ted5151ted5151 Member Posts: 1
    My Denali is a 1999 with a 5.7 liter, and 120,000 miles.

    The intake manifold gasket (LOWER) :confuse: needs to be replaced , as I am leaking anti freeze, and have slight concern it will get into oil.

    I check oil level 3 times a week, but it does not show level increasing.

    The GM dealer has provide a quote to fix lower intake gasket, but also mentioned valve cover gaskets, in checking with GM parts department, they show bolts to intake manifold can be reached without taking off valve covers.

    My questions are: Can intake manifold be taken of without removing valve covers?

    Should I have any concerns due to age 10 years, that other parts, will be broken or damaged, with this service job.

    There sure is a lot of hoses and tubes, in the way of intake access.

    Thanks in advance for all replys.

    The Denali is due to go in for this service on Monday Aug 11/08, so a quick reply would ba appriecated
  • bigmarv1bigmarv1 Member Posts: 1
    40 psi is the max that the tire can handle 32 psi gets a good ride
  • bamandotisbamandotis Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Yukon XL that is making a whining noise as you accelerate and the oil pressure gauge jumps up as well. Dealer has had twice and can't fix. Any suggestions
  • highdesertdudehighdesertdude Member Posts: 1
    Lately, after sitting for awhile, the red security light in the center console is blinking and clicking rapidly, and the electrical system is dead. It will not start without a charge. It only takes a couple of minutes to recharge it, so the battery is not dead. This has happened 3 times intermittently in the past couple of weeks. I have check all fuses, and they are good. What is going on? Thanks.
  • dmacken1dmacken1 Member Posts: 3
    I have found that changing the command on the computor helps for a short while but remedy is still a mystery. I have also changed the relay but no help.
  • wallycinwallycin Member Posts: 1
    :lemon: I have a 2008 yukon denali. I have had nothing but trouble with this vehicle, starting with the xm module, then interior issues, then replaced the steering shift boot, then replaced the instrument cluster, then had to replace the fuse block inside the dash board on the drivers side. Now the battery keeps dying. I only drive it on weekends and have taken it to the dealership 3x for this problem . They can't figure out the problem. They have had it on monitors and say it is drawing the correct amp when it is supposed. I asked if it was the battery, but they said it was fine, and should start after sitting for 4 to 5 days. The problem is when I go to start it the battery is dead. I mean completely dead, no interior lights liftgate won't open. Nothing doing. Any ideas out there??? I am so upset at this vehicle I can't see straight. The good news is it is a lemon and I have a lawsuit against gmc. The bad news is I have to deal with this piece of crap until the trail date. :lemon: :mad:
  • skytop1skytop1 Member Posts: 106
    After 3 weeks new, this prestigeous amalgamation of tin broke down and had to be towed to the dealer. Never mind that the battery was so dead that the highly vaulted OnStar failed to work! I had to use my cell phone to call for a tow.
    The dealer took two days to figure out that the battery was allegedly the cause of the problem. Mind you, the vehicle is only 3 weeks old.
    Now my Denali bucks and shakes in the morning, shutters when shifting, rattles and drives like an old truck. Will I ever ever, ever buy another GM car or truck. '
    Ha ha ha haaaa haaa. I will celebrate when GM finally goes bust. Today its stock was at about $4. and it's corporate paper was downgraded to PURE JUNK value. Just like their vehicles.
  • fitterswifefitterswife Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Yukon Denali. When I stop at a light and then push the gas the truck stops and shows "traction active" on my dash. There are no service engine soon lights on the dash either. It stops the truck and I have to take my foot off the gas pedal and then push it again and then it will move. The truck doesn't shut off all power it just stops like I stepped on the brakes. It does this everytime I stop and go. Also, it will sometimes go if you don't take your foot off the pedal but it moves slow and shifts really hard. What is going on with this truck? Does anyone have any Ideas?
  • dmacken1dmacken1 Member Posts: 3
    The last attempt to solve the issue with the doors not unlocking was to change the lock relay. I have not had a issue since was changed two weeks
  • arneziearnezie Member Posts: 1
    Well I bought a used 2007 Denali a month ago and it was raining when I bought it so i never checked to see if the sunroof worked. Well you guesed it , it does'nt. I checked the fuse and its fine. Anyone know anything else to try?? I can't take it to the dealership I bought it from I live in Michigan and i flew to Georgia to buy it so thats out of the question.. HELP>>>>>>>> :mad:
  • knightcatknightcat Member Posts: 1
    I Have a 01 Yukon Denali Vortec 6000 and i have electrical problems, when im on a stop sign the all the light start going down and then if i do a turn and its slow it looses power and just turns off, the engine dosent sputter, once the engine turns off i put in on park and start it, it will start right back up. I have Checked the Altenator and the Battery and they are all in good shape. I am wondering what can be the cause of this problem.
  • ondarox69ondarox69 Member Posts: 1
    This just starting happening to my 2004 Yukon Denali. But prior to this I had a different message, "service stability" and the ABS and Traction Off lights went on. I believe these are connected but not sure. A chevy dealership service department told me I had to replace the hub and bearing on a front wheel (w/o looking at it, just told them what it was doing). Buyt they were not sure about the loss of power when accelerating and the "traction active" message. Your post is older so I assume you already have gotten it fixed, if so maybe you could tell me what you had done. thanks.
  • rigatonirigatoni Member Posts: 2
    Here's the answer to my problem as explained to me by my mechanic. The multi-function switch that sits in the steering column controls the turn signals, hi/low beams, wiper/washer and cruise control. When you switch between high and low beam one circuit opens, the other circuit closes. The fault occurred on the low beam side and would not ground when I switched back to low beams from high. My mechanic was able to fix the ground problem by cutting the ground wire that ran from each headlamp back to the multi-function switch and grounded them directly to the frame. No doubt GM wouldn't approve of this fix but I wasn't about to pay $250+ for a new switch plus labor.
  • smallridgesmallridge Member Posts: 6
    The traction activation light keeps coming on and the motor powers down and wont go. The dealer has been no help we put a new transmission in and it still does it. Can you help?
  • smallridgesmallridge Member Posts: 6
    Did anyone ever give you an answer? We have the smae problem! Appreciate any help
  • brinbevbrinbev Member Posts: 1
    We have had this same issue on our 2004 since about 20,000 miles now we have 47,000, finally got GMC involved after many times of taking it into the dealership. Last week they replaced a wheel sensor, but now we are getting all sorts of messages coming up like the ABS light, Service Stability and the traction control off light comes on. Anybody else have these same issues?
  • greenheadgreenhead Member Posts: 3
    Battery drain caused by new pump for autoride system staying on even when key removed. Checked relay - works fine. Now looking for diagnostic on controller. Bypassed system and pump works fine with shock leveling on demand.

    Anybody got any suggestions other than Mr. Gut Wrench?
  • smallridgesmallridge Member Posts: 6
    Did you ever solve the traction activation issue?
  • skytop1skytop1 Member Posts: 106
    GM is now offering a whopping $8000. instant rebate and ZERO percent financing on new Yukons. Sounds good? Think again. GM has reduced the value of your SUV by at least $8000. or more. They have also severely reduced the public's perceived value of their product. GM products are being seen as shoddy and value challenged. GM is deliberately canabilizing their own customer base and destroying resale value of all GM products. All GM vehicle owners are losers now since your auto investment has fizzled. This is how GM is going to run their business even after the morons in congress give 15 BILLION dollars to this out of control auto company. GM does not have a clue but they know how to hurt their customers big time.
    Make sure you patronize GM because they don't give a damn about YOU.
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