Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My 2003 had so many problems, you would have NEVER went for the '11.
My heart reaches out to you!
Regards,
OW
So maybe the car companies are just getting wary of installing these devices because they see the handwriting on the wall.
Not only not in the car.... not even in the same zip code..
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
The internet/smartphone remote start is fine for what it is. It covers the case where you're at your desk and want to start it out in the back parking lot. I loaded the ap on an iPod for a test drive. It's very slow and somewhat unreliable. Takes 90 seconds to 3 minutes for the command to reach it, and that's after you start the ap, go through a required log in with your pin code, then select the remote icon, then select start, then confirm the start operation. From inside my house with 5 consecutive attempts, it worked only 3 times. Twice it had an error, and it took a very long time for it to time out and throw the error. To add insult to injury, it requires a monthly subscription to OnStar to use it too.
Web based remote start won't be very handy from inside the theater when the show's done. Nothing like that is ever going to compete against against a 2 second double-click on the fob visual confirmation 5 seconds later.
One of the things I really miss is visual confirmation on the fob as to whether or not I locked the truck. A number of times I've gotten inside a store and simply couldn't remember if I locked it or not. Not to mention the kids get in the store and need something out of the truck. Before, I could unlock it from where I was at and then lock it when they got back.
I'd bet good money that the electronics are all there. It's just a case of GM arbitrarily deciding for themselves what the consumers want, and not publishing the programing code that the dealer needs to install it. Why they would decide to drop the feature from their upscale version but keep it for the Tahoe/Yukon line is quite baffling.
GM's claim that the new dexos 1 oil spec will save you money in the long run is baloney too. I've got 600 miles on the clock and the Oil Life Monitor is at 90%. That translates to an oil change at 6000 miles, which is about what the Buick would've showed under the same driving conditions. The OLM in the '06 Buick would want the oil changed at 3500 miles/winter and 5000-7000 miles/summer. A 5-quart jug of oil just costs $35 now instead of the $11.95, tripling the cost. BTW, the dexos 1 oil spec is written so that nothing but fully synthetic oil will meet it. GM claims it's necessary to make the Active Fuel Management system work properly since mineral oil allows too much air to be emulsified, changing the hydraulic properties of the oil. Hmmm....there's been absolutely no changes to the motors between 2010 and 2011, so all the motors with AFM from all the previous years using mineral oil are not working properly? What a load of General Motors.......better stand back.....they're so full it of it they just might pop and you don't want to get any of it on ya.
There's always a tipping point between offering dazzling gadgetry on the one hand and finding out that the people who *really* want it are so few as not to justify the expense or risks.
Automakers "drop" options because they don't sell. You remember 4-wheel steering?
As I started walking out of the plant today toward my Denali, I was about 100 yards away. I kept walking towards it and repeatedly pushing the lock button. When I got within about 50 feet, it finally received the signal. That was absolutely no surprise since that's the average range of a factory fob, but honestly now, what purpose does it serve to start the vehicle from that distance? It means you can start it in your garage from inside the house, but that's about it. My '06 Buick had factory remote start and it behaved the exactly the same, which is why I put in an aftermarket long range remote start in that too....and my '98 Expedition as well.
When it's -10 outside, and it's been sitting out in the parking lot at work all day, it's actually very beneficial to let it warm up a bit before you drop it in gear. I know you get condensation, but I can tell you for a fact and after 10 years of using long range remote starters, there's a stark difference in performance & behavior if they warm up for 5-10 minutes when it's that cold outside. On the few days where the high is below zero, I'd go to the window at lunch, start my vehicle and let it idle through one cycle to help keep the internals marginally warmed up.
It just plain irks me to no end that I pay $10k more for the high end model and got fewer options. It already has factory remote start. It takes so little to add a couple hundred yards range. The extended range remote from GM is a fob purchase only - ALL the electronics are already there. You buy the fob, the dealer recodes the computer and it's done.....unless you bought a Denali.
The '06 Buick was an easy retrofit. It already had factory remote start, so I installed an ExpressKit which only took wires - 12V, GND, and then you solder the 3rd wire to the LAN wire on the dataport. The Expresskit injected the commands on the internal LAN, and the Buick thought it was talking to a factory fob. Instant 1/4 mile range and 2-way communication. But gee.....ExpressKit doesn't offer one for '11 Yukon/Tahoe BECAUSE THERE'S A CHEAPER FACTORY EQUIVALENT.....and I'm sure they're not going to be interested in marketing it only to Denali and Hybrid owners.
I can't help it if I think it's inane to have all the capability wired and packaged into the truck....just not the ability to access it.
But enough of why I don't like them and back to your original question.
It is curious that GM's website shows a "Remote vehicle starter system" standard on the Yukon Denali. You'd think that if dropping this feature was documented, an easy to change webpage would be the first place to start.
Ordinarily I'd say follow the money, but why decontent the higher trim level first? It's curious.
You have to really read the fine print to figure out the 2-way is simply not available on the Denali. Worse yet, some websites incorrectly list it as available - probably a left over from the 2010 model. The dealers don't know it's not available either until they try to look it up.
The 2-ways take more juice to operate, so you have to change the AAA battery once or twice a year. The standard fob battery lasts years, so I'm thinking maybe the average guy can't change the fob battery without breaking things or find it annoying.
The 2-way transceivers have other advantages too. The signal is so strong that they rarely ever not communicate. No more click, click, click just trying to get it to unlock. They beep/buzz to let you know the car got the signal. They display lock/door status so you see on the remote if it's locked or doors are open. Couldn't find the keys a few times and you can push a button in the car and remote will beep for 20 seconds to help find it.
Like I said, I was all ready to sign the papers and everything, and not until then did the dealer figure out he couldn't put one in. The official GM Accessory website has a number of the 2-way remotes for various models with/without power hatch, with/without factory remote start, etc., but it isn't until you've looked at them all do you find out there simply isn't a model for the Denali. But there was for 2010 Denali - because I printed out the webpage from the 2010 model year. It's simply not there now. But the models are there for the Tahoe, and the dealer confirmed he could put one in a base 2011 Yukon. Also, if you do a Build Your Vehicle, it shows up as an option for base 2011 Yukon - or at least it did. GMC recently totally revamped their website. I'm just fried because I do my homework and from what I could tell, I had my ducks in a row.
Even with all the web trolling I've done for the last 12 months, I never came across anything about the new GM dexos 1 oil spec either. The dealer didn't say anything about it, but it's required for ALL 2011 GM vehicles. Fill the crank with mineral based oil and you just voided your warranty. I came across that little ditty when I went to look up the oil capacity in the owner's manual to see my quarts I needed for the first change. You'd think they'd have a tag on the dipstick or filler cap or something like that to make sure the owner was aware of it. What are the odds that the $8/hour kid at the quickie lube place knows about it?
I knew GM had quietly dropped the heated washer fluid option after several cars caught fire. The company that made the system is in bankruptcy due to lawsuits over it.
I just want to know exactly what's different about the Denali and specifically between the 2010 and 2011 Denali that makes the 2-way transceiver not available. My due diligence shows no difference in the Nav unit or other electronics that could account for it. OnStar had a tweak to allow more web based operations. Zero changes to the motor and tranny.
I'm never going to find out why. I'm just going to have to move on and go with aftermarket if I want it bad enough. I passed up 2010 Denali I found just because it wasn't the color I wanted, and it already had 2-way installed. Should've heard the salesman yelp when I wouldn't sign after telling me he couldn't put one in. Took a closer look at the 2010 the next day and decided that the color I wanted was more important than the 2-way.
It's just really disappointing when you know what you want....find exactly what you're after, and then at the very last second you discover you've been blindsided. Dealer saw a $60k deal circling the drain and had the service manager make calls most of a day trying to sort it out. Couldn't put it in, couldn't get an answer why either. Embarrassing for the dealer too, because they'd put them in other Yukon's - totally unaware about the 2011 Denali/Hybrid exclusion.
So between the 2-way remote, and now the 3rd seat that doesn't latch correctly and the sunroof cover that's jammed shut, it's just left a bad taste in my mouth. I had my 30 years in last year and the new Yukon was supposed to be my one-time treat to myself, but the markets/economy had tanked so I had to wait till now.
Maybe check out an Escalade?
So far, 15.7 mpg worst, 17.9 mpg best with the Denali - it's not great by any standards, but that's pretty impressive for 6.2L, no matter how you slice that onion. I've driven 460's and 454's under the hood, and they'd be no match for this thing, not to mention twice the mileage or more, so progress has been made. I was hoping/counting on at least a consistent 14mpg combined, so I think it'll meet that expectation at least.
Unfortunately, I do not have information available as to why this option is not available.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
I took the truck into JAWS in Sacramento and they supposedly worked on the front differential for $800.00...didn't resolve the problem at all. Appears to have been a waste of money.
The problem seems to relate to the steering? Is it the transfer case possibly? About ready to turn it into Carmax and never buy an American made car again!
Good Luck
So a few days later, my wife is driving it and the oil pressure drops below 10 (assuming guage indicates 10 PSI). The oil warning light comes on and it starts to ding. I took the car for a test drive the next morning. Oil pressure cold started about 20 and decreased as the engine warmed up. I parked it back in the driveway before the pressure dropped below 10.
The vehicle has about 72000 miles on it and the oil has been changed every 3-5000 miles.
I should mention also that the reason the car was with this mechanic was that the front differential fluid "magically" disappeared after an oil change at the local Jiffy Lube requiring the differential to be replaced.
While the mechanic was replacing the differential, he recommended replacing the oil cooler lines which were leaking at the metal to rubber union.
I find it hard to accept a serious internal engine failure with only 72000 miles on this 6.0L engine. Any ideas? I don't want to take it back to this mechanic, or any other until I have had a chance to do some troubleshooting and to get eduacted.
Thanks to all for your expert advice.
The slick thing to do before a teardown might be to have the oil analyzed by a lab to see if there is excessive bearing material in it--if they say "yes" then you know for certain. If no excessive bearing material is detected, then I guess we'd drop the pan and have a look inside, to inspect the oil pump.
Here's a little blurb on oil pressure. This article refers to foreign cars but the principles are the same.
HOW TO READ OIL PRESSURE
$750 for a shock.$$$$$. so on. but complain about American cars calling them junk. like it has a dead battery, brakes need replacing after 60,000 miles of city driving. or I spilt a large pop in my electronics and they cant fix it. When your having a continuos problem with anything. try another service center. thats not the American car its the service center. Hope the next time you have such a problem with a truck you buy. the first thing you want them to do is give you a new battery in the deal. because if the truck is 3-4 years old your probably due.
The car just shuts down! I mean the whole thing: it will not crank, the doors will not open, everything locks up.
First the power locks would not work, windows too and we got that fixed. The remote would not work. Then it locked up and the battery was replaced. It did it again. Sent it back it did it again and now it is in the shop again.
What is the deal with this SUV? This is our third GMC in 18 years, but I guess our last.
I'm assuming that you have Auto Ride Suspension
1. Shock Sensors need replacing or cleaning
2. Shocks need replacing
3. Speed Sensors need replacing or cleaning
4. Ride Control Air Compressor needs replacing
If you have to replace the shocks or compressor I suggest you buy the parts and have hem installed... You will save a ton of CHING!!!
search for ArottIndustries.com Let me know how things are going....
Sometimes a vehicle has to relearn things after replacing batteries (especially if it sits for a day or so before replacing)
When the vehicle is starting, Start and Turn off the vehicle while waiting 10 seconds before each stop and restart. Do not press the accelerator. Simply start, let run for 10 secs, turn off for 10 sec... and repeat the process 20 times.
This process in most cases resets the ECM and Memories for Settings
If you have been to a reputable shop they should have been able to run a full diagnostic on the vehicle. A good one will run you $150 at a dealership; but it's usually thorough.
Let me know how things are going.
I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Please keep us posted when the issue has been taken care of.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Please keep me posted if you have the vehicle diagnosed and when the problem has been taken care of.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Good riddance, GM.
Regards,
OW
I apologize for your frustrations. I have looked into your case. Your agent has tried to contact you three times. What I will do is notify your agent that you are waiting for a call. You can also feel free to call the Customer Assistance number in your owners manual with your case number (71-961614620). Thank you for the update.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I apologize for your concerns. Can you please email me your VIN? I would like to look into this for you. I look forward to speaking with you!
Christina
GM Customer Service
thoughts...