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Buick LaCrosse

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  • skooter2skooter2 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for your thoughts. If the wheel bearings have a known problem on this car, has GM offered to fix it? I haven't noticed symptoms, however, an independent repair place saw that there was wear and some looseness.

    On the tires and center caps, the tires have been aligned and rotated at the dealer. If they were not done properly, then the dealer did that.

    Does that provide further useful information?

    Thanks. Skooter2
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    I would look to an independant shop that you can trust for a second opinion on the repairs. Even if they are required, aftermarket parts may be less expensive than GM parts, making the job less expensive.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Use an abundance of caution when buying aftermarket parts. Bearings were a big problem just a few years ago, which I learned when purchasing idler pulleys. Many stores had only 30 days warranty. Looking at the seal on the bearing told me why. Its design would allow debris in and destroy the bearing in short time. NAPA faired better but the pulley itself was different, stamped steel vs. the OE being cast plastic. A big job, pulling motor mounts and other parts to get at replacing. With the OE design, you could change the serpentine belt by slipping over end of pulley. Not so with the aftermarket. You'd have to go through the pulley replacement procedure to change the belt.
    I replaced wheel bearing on 96 Aurora. I ordered it and saved some bucks. Not sure if these would be same design, but it was a big roller bearing pressed into the hub with speed sensor attached. To press new bearing in would likely have destroyed the sensor. Changing is not a hard job.
  • pat122pat122 Member Posts: 1
    Previously I got a low oil level warning (approx. 31K mi) and oil life was at 9% so I just decided to get the oil changed and did not worry about it. This week (38K mi) the low oil level came on again when oil life is at 42%!! I checked the level and I am down over a quart. No signs of a leak in my garage so I am thinking the engine is burning oil. Anyone else have this problem?
  • bekins2bekins2 Member Posts: 29
    I did in my 06 turned out to be the original head gasket made by GM was like a cork substance.It was changed to a metal one and never had the problem again.Cant give you price cause it was done under Carmax warranty.Hope this helps the tech at the Chevy (closer then Buick) said he sees this alll the time,cause of the cheap OE gasket.No damage was done to the heads themselves tho.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I would start with making sure oil was filled at change.
    There are some places oil might leak without it puddling in garage. The main crankshaft seals are suspect as they will sling oil while engine is running but not so much when parked.
    Internally, it might be getting past rings or valve seals. Bad oil might be suspect, that is excessive wear or sticking rings. Pennzoil has been known for one of the best detergent packages for many decades. You might try switching to it for awhile and see if it makes a difference. Beware if you have a cruddy engine you should probably change early until it is cleaned. Watch the change on the dipstick. I think GM has a special additive for freeing stuck rings and there may be a number of additives available that are also supposed to do that. GM seems to recommend against additives, but at your own risk it is cheaper than a reguild so you might want to try, but I'd do the oil first.
    As to cork gaskets, they are pretty much a thing of the past and definitely not ever used as a head gasket. Places that used cork in the past are valve covers, oil pan, and transmission pans.
    Head gaskets are metal and usually multi-layer at critical points such as around each cylinder. Not to say you did not have one that was nearly eaten away possibly by bad coolant.
    How long is the warranty on the engine?
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    According to your post, you now have 7,000 miles since your last oil change and are now adding a quart, correct?

    If so, 2 quarts in that period of time would be considered "normal" oil consumption. If you do any amount of high speed driving (with the engine speed over 3000 rpm) it is perfectly ok for the engine to burn a small amount of oil.

    IIRC, if you can't see any visible leaks, 1 qt per 1,000 miles is considered normal, so 2 in 7,000 is nothing to worry about.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    edited January 2011
    I would personally like to see the full details of GM claim that using that amount of oil is OK. I suspect that is a very old spec dating back to sometime pre-catalytic converter.
    That amount of oil was deemed OK during breakin way back then, but you could see blue exhaust often when it pushed that much oil through. Catalytic converters probably burn it. I'm suspicious of how long it might last having to do the extra work.
    But far worse is the pollution taking place. All those chemicals and heavy metals in old oil are being sprayed into the air we breathe. I'm not sure who put the stop on asbestos brake pads, but they should be looking at that specification saying it is OK.
    BTW something does not sound correct. 2008, I'd guess it has 3.8 or 3.9L. The mileages refer to 7000 mile difference, but has 42% life left?????
    I feel certain that with 7000 miles the life would be closer to 0% on that engine and 4 speed tranny meaning more revs per mile.

    To pat122, how many times have you had oil changed in this vehicle since new?
    If you are well documented, you may have some warranty. Please post back.
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Member Posts: 2,770
    Check this out;

    http://www.pistonslap.com/tsb/010601011A.pdf
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    edited January 2011
    Rider & cooter:
    We used to note on 3.8L GM engines that oil consumption increased with two factors:1)engine age and 2)oil change interval. Consequently, at 3-5000 miles most of our vehicles "asked" for an oil change by being one quart or so low. The mileage interval changed by model but the overall pattern did not. We adopted an oil change schedule around this pattern - 3-5000 miles and found that we had to add very little new oil to old we just added all new oil with the filter once we got the interval established, Seems like very inexpensive preventive maintenance for a $30,000+ car that we keep for 8-13 years if the car cooperates .
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    A good question concerning usage would be where was the oil going.
    I've had a number of vehicles that had lots of miles, circa 100K +, that used no oil or very little.
    I would have thought that today's engines were much tighter until I read the link cooter put up concerning piston slap. Thanks Cooter.
    Going back to an 86 Parisienne with Olds 307, about 85K, I was experiencing a little more than 1/2 quart low at change time. I switched to Mobil 1 and ran it according to how the oil looked. Oil still looking very good I extended the drain out to 10K, more than double previous changes with regular oil. It used no oil what-so-ever in that time.
    I did run Rislone through it before switching to synthetic and oil got really nasty indicating the engine had junk in it.
    Combining that experience with other engines and oil brands I have come to the conclusion that with at least older oils there was a significant variance in volatility. That is the engine did not use it or leak it. It just evaporated slowly at high temps, or in the case of old Quaker it stayed in the upper end mostly. Even with the cooler engines back then, it looked like that stuff you see in the Ford change you oil commercial. And with the high heat at the crossover in V8 intake manifolds it turned into something resembling lava rock.
    If not for that commercial, I would have thought such issues no longer existed because of greatly increase API standards. (American Petroleum Institute)
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 19,090
    Thought I would check in here with an update on my '09 Allure (Canadian Lacrosse). Just turned 7000 miles and the car is better than ever. Having passed break-in, the engine seems to have loosened up and the car pleases me with it's grunt off the line and peppiness in everyday driving. The heated leather seats remain very comfy and the automatic climate control is great in the cold weather we now have. Ride is still smooth and quiet with no rattles. No issues at all. Just a great car.

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • hemarrhemarr Member Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    Hi i am having problems with my rear shocks loosing its hood. Car has a bad rattle on the right rear that rattles really loud. Car is too stiff to rock it side to side and just about impossible to look under it unless you have a lift. I took it to the dealer 2 times for the rattle and on the second time they replaced the rear shocks. On the way home from dealer the rear end was rattling just as much as ever. I could not contact the dealer because i was just too mad and i would have said things they would not like. After i calmed down 3 days later i called the dealer and told them the loud rattle was still there and that the plastic ( believe it or not ) shock absorber hoods had fallen down again. The Dealer could not believe it and he said the hoods were pressed on. Personally I don't think that they are pressed on . looks to me that they are glued on with some kind of epoxy. Hard to believe they can press metal unto a plastic cover.

    I was wondering if anyone has had this problem. I have seen 2 2010 lacrosse's on the streets and i looked over the rear tires and you can see the cover had fallen from the holder so i don't think i'm the only one with this problem.

    I'm a mechanic myself but i work on Machinery's and i do not have a lift to fix the problem myself by drilling holes on bracket and inserting screws to hold hood in place.

    has anyone else had this problem?

    image
  • edoggy777edoggy777 Member Posts: 5
    I believe there is a TSB for this problem. I would take the car to the dealer and have them take a look. Check buickforums.com too.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    TY for the notice. I just checked mine. They have not yet fallen but both sides have the outer half out of the holder. Another on my punch list.
    TY GM, you could have put a known good load-leveling system on for what this will cost you.
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    edited February 2011
    Great post and the pix highlite the problem.
    We have ~8000 miles on 2010 CXL and the white plastic shock hoods are down on ours. You can see the reddish epoxy on the hoods when the hoods are seated correctly in the upper cast metal shock bracket.
    If their is, in fact a TSB out per the other poster, then GM thinks they know how to fix the mating of the plastic hood to the metal shock bracket. The hood is supposed to keep water,salt,etc. out of the shock piston and seals to protect the integrity of the piston- very important so this is an excellent catch and well documented post on a potential problem down the road.
    THANK YOU! Crankee
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    White? Mine are black as are hemar's. He did not say which model or suspension. Mine is the Touring, CSX.
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    2010 CXL with H-arm and FWD per prior posts. The boots or hoods on ours are white plastic with rust colored epoxy smeared all around. The plastic cover over the shock body is black on ours. Our hoods are both down 1/4" or more from the metal upper shock bracket and you can see the piston rod.
    I called the dealer this AM and the initial reaction was they had not heard this complain and no TSB so far. They are checking for TSB/fix/parts and I will take it in then. I know that the shock piston needs to be protected from weather,salt etc so the plastic hood cover would have to be secured into the metal shock bracket with the epoxy. I will follow up if I learn more with this but the post on this site with the pix is pretty self explanatory.
  • hemarrhemarr Member Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    I thought i put down the model but here is mine

    2010 Buick lacrosse CSX . Its fully loaded with everything offered.

    Luxury Package
    Touring Package w/ 19inch rims
    supreme sound and navigation
    zenons and heads up
    and the cheap Goodyear tires (any Goodyear tire is worthless to me) I will change them this summer

    please note that those pictures are 3 days after the dealer replaced the complete shocks, they say.

    Car has only 8 thousand miles on it
  • hemarrhemarr Member Posts: 4
    Mine is also a CXS with touring package and the hoods are black plastic.

    to the other user that stated to take car to dealer, please read my post again and you will see i stated the dealer just replaced the rear shocks because the hoods were down on the original ones, so it will be going to dealer for a third time for same thing. Web have a lemon law in NJ and it states that if you have to take your car to dealer more than 3 times for same problem its classified as a lemon.

    I will be making an appointment again for next week. I'll post the results
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Sounds like we have similar but mine is 2011 so it was not fixed with a production update.
    I like the touring package except the GY. It seems to me they could have implemented it better for when not in sport mode.
    The xenons and HUD are great as well as the blind spot stuff. I feel they could have done better with the rear camera. Its range of clarity lacks. If you get exhaust condensation, clouds, it is near useless. Some angles of sunlight are bad. And if backing up where you need to ride brake, the red light destroys clarity.
    The sound and NAV, well it is lacking in my opinion as well. First it could use a lot more voice commands. The NAV map is old and seems to have quite a few bad mappings and even stupid voice commands. (turn left when you actually need to turn right) The XM has way too many dropouts on this vehicle compared to 09Malibu. And the HK system seems to have terrible fidelity. Both on low end and high end. I pushed the treble to max to try to get faithful reproduction of cymbals, bells, other very high harmonic instrumets and it just does not seem to be there. (I will have to retry the highs with a pressed CD) Part of it may be XM compression methods.
    There is a lot to like about this car compared to some lesser models but it does not seem to have the quality polish it should have.
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Hemarr: What ever became of your latest trip for the hoods on your rear shocks? I do have white plastic hoods on 2010 CXL with H-arm suspension and FWD only. Hoods have dropped down partially from metal upper bracket, so I assume they will eventually fall into the black plastic shock cover as in your picture. My dealer seems completely unaware of any general problem with the epoxy/glue holding the hoods in place. I have not taken it in yet but they are a very professional dealer so no worry here.
    Please let us know if there is a TSB, known problem or more info on hoods.
  • hemarrhemarr Member Posts: 4
    My dealer has replaced the shocks and 2 days later the hoods had come down again.
    Its going back in tomorrow for new shocks again and for sway bar bushings along with spring retainers as they are the source of my rattling sound.

    Why your dealer does not know of the shock problem is weird to me because its happening with all Buick models of lacrosse's 2010 and 2011. I even noted the hoods falling from shock at the dealer and on 2 cars i have seen parked and i looked above rear wheels.

    The dealer says the upper shock bracket is pressed onto the hoods but it looks to me that its epoxied up instead. I'm a mechanic and I'm sure i could retain the hoods in place with a u bolt but don't want to do anything while car is under warranty

    here is a link for rear noise at the Buick forums
    http://www.buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19288
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Hemarr: Thanks for the link. My dealer is normally great- maybe they have not caught up yet! I'll get back to them.
    thanks again
  • mark_wnymark_wny Member Posts: 70
    I hope this is not a redundant post. The consensus of car magazines and websites is that 4 cylinders just won't cut it in moving a car as heavy as the LaCrosse. Makes sense to me - but I wonder if any readers here have practical experience to report. Perhaps 4 cyl is enough for some folks - ?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I have not personally driven one with 4 cylinder but I had 09 Malibu LT2 with one.
    First, let me say there seems to be a trending toward more power being available, however that may stop or slow with gas prices again getting quite high.
    Many seemed to be OK with Malibu I4 power, even with AT4, but there is a tremendous difference in acceleration when comparing the same vehicle when one has 4 speed and other 6 speed. Mine had 6 speed. Fully loaded, the Malibu would often shift threading my way up the mountains to Nashville from coastal Georgia, but it had plenty of power to make the climb automatically applying proper gearing. Supposedly that Ecotec has endurance that should not be effected, you just have to be willing to adjust to frequent shifting. Certainly much different from running that route with a 73 Town Car & big block 429(?) which got about a maximum of 16MPG. Definitely fit the Detroit barge definition.
    Putting that I-4 into the Lacrosse might be questionable. First the stats that GM has published seem questionable. On the Malibu, the base model is 11# heavier than the LT2? LT2 =3421# curb weight.
    According to the latest Buick webpage, the CX =3829#. With it being just over 400# heavier and the final drive being different I'd bet, the acceleration would seemingly be similar.
    Note: the curb weight for the CXS is now being listed as 4045#. I thought I saw figures that showed it around 4400# ? And that same Buick chart now shows the spoiler as being standard on the CX?
  • mark_wnymark_wny Member Posts: 70
    thanks for the detailed information.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    FYI: My owner's manual made wiper replacement look easy. Just pull the wiper arm assembly away from the windshield, detach the old blade, put on the new one. However, it is not possible to do that on my LaCrosse because the hood rim blocks the arm. With the hood open, not much better. Using the wiper control and/or the ignition switch, I was not able to stop the wiper with the arm in the "up" position. Solution: I located the fuse for the wipers under the hood. Turned the wipers on, pulled the fuse when the wipers were "up" and they came to a dead stop. NOW I can follow the owner's manual instructions. If the fuse trick didn't work, I was going to disconnect the ground to the battery when the wipers were on but then I would have to reset stuff (clock, radio, whatever). Anyone have a better approach, please share.
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 19,090
    Funny you bring this up. Just last week I was in the driveway playing with the wipers for this very purpose. If the engine is not running and you turn the ignition on, start the wipers, then turn off the ignition to get them to stop partway along the windshield, they won't do it and park automatically. But if the engine IS running when the wipers are on and you shut the ignition off, they stop where ever they happen to be on the windshield.

    Mine is a '09 model.

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Have your tried removing the entire arm?
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    Yep, your solution works on my '05 also. You have made wiper replacement for me easier the next time. Thanks!
  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    kleaver: Old news. My dealer did know that the shock cover had dropped and re epoxyed the one side. They were not willing to pin them up since that violates the original design. Seems like a glue problem since they have been using plastic shock covers for years. We feel lucky to have a great car and a great dealer to service the inevitable needs.
    We were lucky to avoid the needless accessories that disract the driver, like the nav screens/internet access and endless creature comforts that are prone to need service.
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