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With AUTO off (as you say, the system is off and therefore in "manual" mode), you can still rotate the main control and change the temperature up or down on the LCD display. Turning the temp up will output more heat, and turning the temp down will produce cooler air (Again, AUTO is OFF). So it seems to me that something is working in the car to "meet" or "reach" the manually set temp, though maybe not as sophisticated as the "AUTO" or SYSTEM ON setting.
Therefore, it seems to me that I really do not know the actual internal temperature, only what is desired by the manual or AUTO setting.
Thank you again for taking the time to entertain my ingorance!
Let me try to explain it another way. Press the AUTO button and dial in the temperature, say 80 degrees on a cold morning. The blower will automatically turn on and dampers will open and close as needed to get the cabin to 80 degrees. (The control system is designed not to blow cold air until the engine warms up, so the blower will not go to max right away). Since the cabin is really at something like 30 degrees, the control system looks at the difference between the actual and setpoint temperatures, and the blower will go to max speed. As the cabin warms up, the blower speed will diminish. This is known as proportional control. If you OVER-RIDE the AUTO setting, by manually adjusting the blower and / or MODE, note that the AUTO indicator will go off: NOW you are truly in MANUAL.
Again, when the system OFF, the blower is also OFF, you are NOT in manual. Dialing in a temperature when the system is OFF does absolutely nothing!!!
I hope that this clarifies the operation of the climate control system. Anybody else care to comment?
1. Raise the hood
2. Peel back the hood weatherstrip from the
passenger's side of the vehicle halfway to center.
3. Remove the three (3) clips and the access panel
( black plastic cover )
4. Remove the old passenger compartment air filter.
5. Then reverse the steps to install the new air filter.
A WIX cabin filter Part # 24906 is about $20.00 available from NAPA Auto Parts.
Hope this helps,
Ken...... Veronaowner
NAPA # 2838, and cost was $14.29. Both items are easily installed.
Hope this helps,
Ken......Veronaowner
I found this link on the web. Could this be the 2007 Verona?. Comments??
http://www.auto-report.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1268&
Recently, the rubber on the door pull on the passenger door and on the door opener on the driver side has started peeling off. On the driver door, there is a worn spot on the leather. I've also got to take it in because of belt squeaking when it's cold out until the engine has warmed up.
Anyone else having this interior issues? I don't expect these kind of issues on a car thats less than 2 years old.
Thanks
I had lots of cars with gray interior so I can completely understand and was happy to get the tan interior.
I have purchasted a verona 2004 and every thing doing fine with the car.But the engine is making a noise like valve ticking but very rough and when rpm encrease noise go.Everywhere i go they are asking me about that awful noise and bysides its make the car look like an diesel one.
any help please.
Heres a link with a picture, click on the picture to enlarge the interior.
http://www.autobytel.com/content/research/index.cfm/action/showarticle/AID/13870- - 2
Can you give me email of the dealer or the manager who help you out with this problem.I don't know if it will work in my case becuase i'm not in the US.
thanks,
I can understand that,sorry about it.
thanks
thanks
FYI, the Verona takes the "narrow" replacement insert, 22" on the driver side, 20" on the passenger side. Decided to keep the original equipment wiper arms. Installation took a few minutes.
Hey, this board has gone silent for almost a month!
27 months. The blades were streaking the windshield and that is the reason.
Ken, Veronaowner
My predictions are finally coming true. One of 8 cars sold by GM last year was a Daewoo built vehicle. Sooner or later All America will be driving rebadged daewoos. That is if GM does not go belly up very soon
Go back to the express way and it starts again, this car have been in and out of the shop every month plus and there hasn't been anyone who can find the problem. The Suzuki rep for my area has been able to get information as to what to do either. I only have 12K on the car bought new with 14 miles and has done this from the day I bought it. If buy chance you know of a mechanic that knows something about the inline 6 please send their name and number so I can ask them how to fix this.
Thanks
I bought the car new 14 miles and we have 12K now and this car has been back to the dealer every month and we have call CA. and they haven't been able to get us help.
Anyone who know anything that will help please let me know.
Would the adjustment of this TSB fix the problem and do you know where it is, the mechanic here don't know how to fix Suzuki's. I been dealing with King and today they told me not to bring the car back because they can't help.
They are the Suzuki dealer here in Deerfield, FL.
If the problem really is your valve lifters, you may need an engine overhaul or exchange. If the Suzuki dealer you are going to gives you no satisfaction, you should try taking it to another one, preferably the biggest one around.
You may have to just drive it until the motor blows up, when they will have to fix it under warranty.
The bottom line is that Suzuki makes pretty good cars, and GM saddled them with this Korean piece of Junk called the Verona. Now that GM is backing away from Suzuki, they (Suzuki) will drop this car like a lead balloon. In a sign of good will they should give all Verona owners credit for any GM or Suzuki car. You spend 12K to 20K on a Verona and end up with a piece of Junk 15,000 or 20,000 miles later that needs either a valve job or a whole new motor.
GM deserves to go bankrupt being involved with cars like this!
I FEEL VERY SORRY FOR ALL OF YOU VERONA OWNERS. Even if you got a "good one," a used Verona will be essentially worthless!
All the dealers here all say the same thing, they don't have anyone who can work on this car. Do you know if the replacement engine works any better? Because if the lemon law doesn't work then the next thing is just drive it until if quiets.
I believe their (the dealers) franchise agreement will state they need to support these cars. I would ask whoever said this if it would be alright for you to quote them in your next phone call or registered letter to Suzuki.
The above link is a service manual from the Evanda Chevrolet model sold in Germany, go to Chevrolet.de to see the Evanda, so a total of four countries have this car, I wonder how many problems they are having in Canada and Germany with these cars. Anyways, this link is for those of us like me who are already past 36,000 miles and like me have dumped money at the dealer to get this stupid car fixed. i would rather do the work myself than pay crazy labor charges. Hope this helps.
Thanks to pciro2180 who posted the link to the service manual.
After looking at the service manual, I found the SIREN which is located under the hood, out of sight, almost directly below the battery. It is a round, black shape, about the size of a small can of peas. To see it, you must remove the air filter intake. This is a black plastic box with a foam ring around the mouth that sits right on top of the radiator, and is held on by two Phillips head screws. It is very easy to remove, and once you have done so, you can see the SIREN, down below the battery. This is the siren for the alarm, which chirps once for lock, and twice for un - lock.
Let the buyer beware, by disconnecting this siren, the car no longer wails when the alarm is triggered, but the lights still flash. Are you willing to risk silencing your alarm to disable your chirp? That's up to you.
Anyway, the siren is fed by a 2 wire cable that goes to a connector just behind the driver's headlight, almost dead center with the short side of the battery. The connector is round on the outside, the connection is oval on the inside, with a red and yellow wire. There is a rectangular black plastic tab on the outside of the connector that must be pushed in to pull the connector apart.
Once the connector is apart, try your key buttons. The chirp should be gone. Try your alarm. Roll down a window, take out the keys, and lock your car remotely. Reach in the open window, pull up the lock, and open the door from outside. The alarm should trigger, with flashing lights only. :P
If you don't want to give up the alarm, you may be able to tone down the siren with duct tape over some or all of the openings that the sound comes out of. A quieter chirp, however, will also mean a quieter alarm! :confuse:
Good luck, and happy motoring!
IT'S THE NUMBERS OF PROBLEMS BASED ON THE AMOUNT OF CARS SOLD.
VERONA IS A VERY, VERY, LOW NUMBER VEHICLE. AND YET MANY OWNERS REPORT PROBLEMS........
Just curious
ARE YOU LISTENING GM AND SUZUKI??
GIVE EVERYONE FULL CREDIT FOR ANOTHER GM OR SUZUKI PRODUCT!!
do the right thing!!
The Evanda sold in Europe have a 2.0 liter engine (The some engine Suzuki Forenza in USA) with manual transmission (automatic is an option).
I ve a 2006 Chevrolet Evanda and for the moment i ve any problem.
THE Evanda/Verona is no more made, they stop production in december 2005. GMDAT start the production of the new EVANDA that you can buy in Europe from July 2006, GMDAT decide to change name from EVANDA to EPICA, from july 2006 you can find the new Epica with 2.0l engine, 2.5l (nobody buy in Europe this kind on engine because petrol is too expensive), and in 2007 with diesel engine
Looks nice, but in North America it looks like they are keeping the inline six. Why would they do that with the head problems and ECM unit troubles they have had? Makes no sense to me! Well, now that I think of it - the way the motor layout is, the only other thing that would fit would be a 4 cylinder motor, which would be too small for American tastes.