Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado - III

11819212324

Comments

  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    chevy4me:

    Many people feel that an amp/subwoofer box is the best way to go, but for ease of installation and good sound INSIDE the truck rather than outside, a Bazooka is great. I have been more impressed with them than any of the other "tube" competitors. I had a 6-1/2 inch Bazooka in my S-10, an 8" model in my Camaro, and now an 8" model in my Silverado. Fits under the rear seat so that you can't even see it when the seat is folded down.

    You don't need a line level adapter; the amplified Bazookas accept line or speaker level inputs. You DO need a wire run from the battery for power and (optional but I recommend it) a wire to turn on the unit when the radio is on. I used the same wire that turns on the radio, and placed a switch on the dash so I can turn it off and on while listening just to remind me how good the Bazooka makes the radio sound. If you don't run the "turn on" wire, you can set the Bazooka to turn on automatically when it senses an input from the radio speaker outputs, but it tends to turn o slower than with the actual wire and tends to turn off at low volume levels. Kind of annoying.

    The amplifier section has a crossover so you can adjust not only the overall gain but the point at which the high-end of the bass is cut off.

    Don't eliminate the 4x6 speakers. They sound good as filler in the whole system. You might replace them, but I wouldn't remove them. They do make a difference. Tap into the wires that run under the plastic door sill on the driver's side for the Bazooka inputs. I have the color codes somewhere, and I can forward them to you if you decide to go that route. You don't need to remove the panels to get behind the speakers for the wires; the channel is fine.

    I didn't upgrade the 6-1/2" front speakers, but I may someday ... after I upgrade the 4x6s. With 6-1/2" speakers in front, the Delco SHOULD sound much better than it does (my wife's Sebring Convertible has 6-1/2s in front and it doesn't need a subwoofer. It does already have a seperate amp though).

    If you want to see a picture of the switch on the dash, go to (I think) http://lausd.k12.ca.us/~rwagoner/camaro/silverado.html

    Sorry this post is so long...

    Richard
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    If you go to the above link to see the pictures of the switch, the Bazooka switch is directly to the left of the switch for turning off the passenger air bag.

    If you make a mistake cutting the hole for the swtch, the entire assembly is about $2 and the blanks for where the bazooka switch go are also only $2. How do I know? The shop that installed the Power Slider switsh screwed it up (needing the whole assembly) and I bought an extra blank for the Bazooka switch in case I screwed up. I didn't screw up, by the way.

    Richard
  • mwatchmwatch Member Posts: 5
    I was wondering if anyone has installed or seen a sunroof (power or fixed) mounted on a Silverado. With such a huge expanse of roof area, it is just begging for a sunroof.

    Mike
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    What? And lose my overhead console? Where will I put my wallet? My sunglasses?

    Seriously, I have not seen one although it IS an obvious thing (now that you mention it...). I personally wouldn't want one, but I can see how they might be popular.

    Richard
  • rhinncrhinnc Member Posts: 66
    One thing I failed to mention. They also tightened the "grounding" straps under the cab as well. I've heard that they can also cause a squeak.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i need some help on the axle ratios any input about the 3.73 or 4.10. Deciding on which one to get any info will greatly help Thanks
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    4:10

    That Help?

    - Tim
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Not saying the other ratios are bad, but you've never heard anyone with a '99-'00 GM and 4.10 axle complain about it.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Unless you are on a SUPER SUPER tight budget and a couple dollars makes a difference when you fill up?

    No offense to people who are...but we find ways to piss away money left and right in this Country. So a couple dollars at the pump...to be assured you have the power when you need it...sounds pretty fair to me

    - Tim
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    It may not cost a lot, but the added range of the 3.73 is partly why I got it. Oh, and the fact that the only thing I'll ever tow is a bike rack...

    I let others buy and maintain the boat ...

    Did you read the GM truck sales for September were up something like 30%?

    Richard
    The Economic One
    The Ecological One
    The One Who Likes to Drive All The Way To Yosemite Without Stopping

    (Choose one)
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    That's me too! 600 miles+ on the 5.3L with 34 gal tank, even with the 4.10. No regrets...

    I think GM passed Ford for 1st place in light truck sales in the most recent month for the first time since the strike.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    You got that right Rich!
  • odenmeyerodenmeyer Member Posts: 61
    Went to the dealer to build a new 2000 4X4 extended cab LT. His system showed the 4th door as standard equipment although the invoice price had increased by approx. $288.00. This might be standard on LT only, I'm not sure.
    Another thing that changed was an additional choice for suspension. It was listed as AutoRide which is suppose to be available on the new 2000 Tahoes as well. Does anyone have any details on this option??
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    Yeah, I guess a 34 gallon tank would do ok. Mine is the 26, so a couple miles per gallon might make a difference.

    Actually that might not be true, since the 4.10 gears still allow the engine to turn fairly slow at highway speeds. What is the epa mileage for the 4.10 vs. the 3.73 gears?

    Richard
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Uh..4:10's make the engine turn faster....

    The 26 Gallon tank is short boxes is kinda dumb. Oh well..26 will do for now..

    - Tim
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    >Uh..4:10's make the engine turn faster<

    And I had said that "the 4.10 gears STILL ALLOW (emphasis newly added) the engine to turn fairly slow at highway speeds." I never said it turned slower than the 3.73, just that it would still turn fairly slow (as opposed to the pre-overdrive days). My '67 Camaro turns about 3200 rpm at 70 mph. My Silverado turns about 2000 rpm at 70.

    I'm not stupid ... I don't own a Toy ...

    Is your's a 26 gallon tank also?

    Richard
  • mckainmckain Member Posts: 20
    It is a 99 Silverado LS 5.3L Auto z71 tow pkg, autotrac, 9K miles. Below is the description I gave the dealer. I figure the blue stuff can't hurt to have. So I'll let him try his fix before argueing with him futher (althought they seem ok so far except for this diagnosis). To me it sounds like something is loose or broke on the frame. Time will tell.

    - When starting from a stop (light to moderate acceleration, but sudden not gradual) the body creeks for a brief instance. It sounds like something on the frame is loose. This creek happens when the frame is torque'd:
    · Immediately after hitting the gas (not hard acceleration but sudden)
    · After braking too a stop when the body rebounds it happens sometimes
    · Sometimes when going slowly and hitting a bump where the body travels (leans or twists, one wheel goes down) not just shock travel it happens.
    It happens less after the truck has been driven for awhile. Can't tell if front or rear, sometimes it seems like rear others front. I have only tried this is 2 wheel drive.

    Anybody else heard this noise.

    Regards
    Jim

    The internet is totally amazing. I'm sitting in a hotel room in Tokyo and its just like my living room, well maybe a bit smaller and my Silverado is not outside...
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I didn't say you were stupid....just seemed like you were inplying that 4:10's make the engine slower than 3:73's.

    Yup..I got a 26. All short boxes and stepsides get a 26. Long boxes fet a 34. Who thinks up these things?

    - Tim
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I installed my Hellwig sway bar this weekend.

    I'm not impressed. The bar has to be mounted off center to clear the driver side shock mount. And it has to mounted 1 1/2" forward for the same reason. Then I finally get the whole thing lined up and bolted up tight. I rock the truck side to side and it feels about the same as before. ??? So I rocked it while looking underneath the truck. This bar mounts with some pinch clamps that clamp onto the frame rails from the inside. Not a bad idea, but the frame rails flex as much as the bar does. So I took it all out a made a crossmember to go from side to side and tie the two pinch clamps together. No more flexing, and the anti-sway bar works the way it should.

    If you want an anti-sway bar, you might want to try a Hotchkiss or something else. I was not impressed with the Hellwig kit.

    Mike
  • rubluetoorubluetoo Member Posts: 175
    Look under the cab for 2 grounding straps, one per
    side. They are torwards the back of the cab on
    the sides right behind the doors. They run
    between the cab and the frame. On the frame side
    they are intentionally loose. Liberally apply
    a thick grease on the loose side. This will cure that annoying squeak.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    For a 99/00 Silverado/Sierra - I have just upgraded to a set of Bilsteins and have a 15,000 mile set of Z71 shocks for sale. $100.

    It is too early to tell if it was worth the upgrade to the Bilsteins or not.

    From and earlier upgrade (to the Z71's) I have a set of Firm Ride shocks available. 3000 miles. $75.

    Mike
  • mdw1000mdw1000 Member Posts: 171
    Started on my truck at about 6600 miles. The rattling from the rear end has been around almost since I first got the truck. I really love this truck and don't want to take the finanical hit of getting rid of it now, but if they can't get it to stop leaking, I guess I might try for a buy back or something. Not going to worry about that though until they replace the seal.
  • murizarmurizar Member Posts: 33
    If you are going to listen to the news then the factory speakers are great and rate just OK for listening to music. Although I have not looked at THE SILVERADO 99 speakers I own they sound like paper cones. Paper factory speakers don't deliver the full range of sound. There are no highs and certainly no lows (at least not decent). If you are going to listen to CDs or even chrome cassettes then you need some upgrading to do. I have not done the upgrading yet but can't wait to get my two sets of 3-way speakers from Crutchfield. I deleted the factory radio when I ordered my truck and I am glad I did. I added the Pioneer Cassette deck KEH-7800 for $220. At 35 watts per channel/RMS of 25 I have no need for an amplifier because it is plenty loud for me. I can also add to this unit the 6, 12 or 50 CD changer, but I will do that in the future. I am not sure what the RMS of the factory radio is but I would be surprised if it is more than 7 watts. The other Pioneer CD decks come with a built in alarm that senses changes in voltage and can set of an alarm with an extra relay or can just use the vehicles speakers instead. There are radio units in the Crutchfied catalog that have the speed compensated volume adjust. Some radios come with built in cross over out puts for the subwoofers and include a power lead for turning the subwoofer on. All radios from Crutchfield at no extra charge come with step-by-step instructions for you specific vehicle, wiring harness so there are no splices, brackets, faceplates and an antenna adapter (for THE SILVERADO a 90 degree antenna adapter). It takes 10 minutes to install the radio, but it took me longer because I took my time removing the flimsy dash cover. I don't work for Crutchfield, I am completely satisfied with their service and recommend them to everyone I know.
  • poolzypoolzy Member Posts: 12
    I believe that I saw this topic addressed here recently, but has anyone had a problem with wind noise that seems to emit from the driver's side exterior rear view mirror? At sppeds over 45 mph or so, I hear a high-pitched whistling noise in my 2000 Ex Cab 4WD LS.
  • mwatchmwatch Member Posts: 5
    I used to have the formula for calculating RPM's at a given speed based upon tire size, axle ratio, and vehicle speed. I can't find it now. Does anyone know that formula?
  • lexmarklexmark Member Posts: 68
    Has anyone embedded an image in a post? If you have, please tell me how. (Sorry, I couldn't follow the FAQ instructions.)
  • storchstorch Member Posts: 72
    I have a couple of questions on the factory radio deletion. I haven't even ordered my truck yet and have already been looking through Crutchfield for speaker upgrades. I have bought stuff from them for pretty much all of my other cars and have yet to be disappointed in their service. But, my questions are, with the radio delete, does it still come with all the radio wiring harnesses and speaker wires? Also, does the extended power delay still work? I would think that it is just a part of the external wiring in the power wire to the radio and not in the radio itself, so it should work with after-market radios, right? Thanks.

    Kevin
  • storchstorch Member Posts: 72
    Also, is the radio delete only an option on the base truck?

    Kevin
  • murizarmurizar Member Posts: 33
    On the radio delete you get the base speakers, all the wiring from the speakers to the harness and the antenna. Instead of the radio you get an extra storage space but I am not sure that is its function because there is nothing to keep things from falling out. The harness and the antenna connection sit behind this storage bay. I have the 1500 4.8L Base model and I am not sure if the extended power delay is a feature available to the Base models. My after market radio does not stay on after the key is out. Does some one have the base truck with factory radio that has this feature? Please jump in.

    I had not noticed but you are right it looks like the radio delete is only available with the base truck.
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    Not that I am any real judge, but the factory LS/LT radio seems to have about the same power as my Blaupunct, which, is something like 25 watts per channel. There are 6 speakers, two woofers in front (6-1/2 inch), 2 tweeters in front and 2 midranges in the back (4x6).

    If I were getting the base model, I would probably get the delete. For the others, the stock radio is good, and gets better reception than almost all aftermarkets.

    As for Crutchfield, while their regular prices can often be beat by local shops, their sale prices are good and their package deals on radios/cd changers are excellent. Their support is excellent also. I recommend them highly without reservation.

    Richard
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I know the about the sound coming from your drivers side mirror. When you are going down the road if you put your hand in front of the mirror does it go away?? The crack between the lower mirror bracket and the mirror itself - the part that rotates - has just enough of a gap to act as a whistle. I fixed it by putting a little grease on the mirror ball bearings, I have a special needle attachment that goes on the end of a standard grease gun. I can't remember why I bought this thing but is sure came in handy. It only takes one small squirt of grease and no more squeak...I did this about 4 months ago and have had no problems since..
  • leathal02leathal02 Member Posts: 114
    I dont know what ya'll are talking about when you say that the factory radios sound like paper or whatever.. have you ever listened to a fords radio, they are wayyy worse.. i have a '99 Z-71 LS and i love the way mine sounds, definately doesnt sound like paper or whatever that means

    of course i would like to have a sub in my truck, but when you pay, damn near 30 grand for a truck, money gets alil on the tight side
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I plan on replacing the factory speakers and maybe adding a sub and/or an amp. I've found Crutchfield to have good service but you pay for it. I have bought things from them for convenience but have also beat their price significantly by haggling with a local shop.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Mike, thanks for the update. What a drag though, I thought Hellwig was a good brand. Now I have one sitting in my garage (no truck yet) and don't know what to do. I don't really want to hassle sending it back and paying freight twice so I guess I'll do a fix like you did. First though I'm going to shoot off an e-mail to them and see what they have to say. Hope you don't mind if I use some of your story. I'll let you know if anything interesting comes of it.

    Vince
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    Richard I'm going with your advice on the 8" Bazooka .Where is the cheapest place to buy in the South bay area or Huntington?
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Other than Hellwig, who makes stabilizer bars for Chevy trucks? Mike, you mentioned Hotchkiss but I can't find them on the web. I found ipd at www.ipdusa.com but they only list through the 98 Chevy C/K. Maybe they have one for 99 by this time. Anyone else?
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    If anyone is in Northern CA (Bay Area) and is looking for a reg cab 3/4 ton 4wd I know a dealer that's had one on the lot for months. I bet they would make a good deal... Anderson in Los Gatos.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    How much stuff you got waiting for this truck boss??

    - Tim
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Try this website for Hotchkis:

    http://www.hotchkisperformance.com/

    They are not cheap. The only kit I could find was front and rear for $500.

    Mike
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Was the guy looking for pics of a Blue Silverado with Pewter bottom and flares??

    I saw one in a lot today...stopped and took a picture real quick. Sun was directly in my eyes. Only way to get a good shot was to go to the road side and take from front. A guy was already walking out to me and asked if he could help me as I was pulling away. Whoever ya are...I got a so so picture for you.

    - Tim
  • powerisfunpowerisfun Member Posts: 358
    Tim,
    I'm not the guy you were talking about, but I wouldn't mind seeing the picture anyway. That sounds like an interesting combination of colors.
    Could you post a website or something?
    -powerisfun
  • mportermporter Member Posts: 11
    Anybody check their "Chrome Styled S.S. Wheels" closely? Saw a set out in the parking lot. The little center hubs were removed and something looked weird! The wheel itself is painted, the chrome is an insert " hub cap?" that goes over the wheel! Major sadness!! Called the dealer last Wed. to find out if I had a build date yet, he called me back and told me they SHIPPED IT!! Don't know if I should kiss him or strangle him! Should be here the 10th( next week)!! Ye HAW!! Man I'm bouncing off the walls. Hey Cindy, I was wondering since you have, basicly, the same truck, what kind of mileage you're getting? I was figuring, at 3 mpg better for the 3.73 that would be 78 more miles on a 26 gallon tank. At 1.20 per gallon and about 15 mpg that's $5.20 per tank full. Think I'll like the extended range and the better economy.
    Mark
  • murizarmurizar Member Posts: 33
    In short after market speakers sound louder and will last longer. If you are happy with your factory set then I am happy, but if you are not and want to upgrade then read the following.

    On the next paragraph is some information I copied and reworded to compact it from Crutchfield on their speaker and radio topics, all the credit goes to them.

    "Factory speakers are made up of paper cone midrange and woofers with foam surrounds. The surround is the flexible ring around the edge of the cone. The tweeters are cone type and therefore efficient and economical. Paper cones don't stand up to heat, cold or moisture. After market speakers, if you stay away from paper cones, are made up of Dome tweeters that sound smoother and more accurate with an extended high frequency response. Most after market midrange and woofer speakers are made up of polypropylene of poly mixed with other materials that gives excellent sound and become more efficient and sound louder because the material is stiff and lightweight and stand up to the heat, cold and moisture."

    Foam surrounds don't last as long as after market rubber type and I have seen some become brittle. "With three way speakers you get enhanced warmth and texture", that means that with two sets of three-way speakers you get 12 speakers not the standard 6 in the LS/LT SILVERADO for better reproduction. I don't know about everyone else but I can tell the difference, specially with my SILVERADO base 4 speakers system.

    With the LS/LT SILVERADO I would replace the speakers if I added an amplifier because the new amplifier will tear the factories sooner on the surround area since they are not intended for the extra power. Does anyone know what the wattage and RMS of the SILVERADO radios is?
  • murizarmurizar Member Posts: 33
    I need to correct the power out put for the Pioneer KEH-7800. In reality it is 45watts/22RMS x 4 channels. When a radio says 45watts/22RMS it means that the continuous power that the built in amplifier can produce is 22 watts with a peak power or brief musical burst of 45 watts.

    rwagoner

    Blancpunct radios don't all have the same power rating for example some are 40 watts/17 RMS, 35 watts/23RMS and 25watts/14RMS. It would mean a lot more if you could tell me what Blancpunct model you are referring to.
  • redwolf091redwolf091 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone i noticed that you have been talking about factory stereo im a certified installer and i could suggest lots of things to do with your trucks for cheap money but also using good products....such as RF,PPI,ECLIPSE,ALPINE,PIONEER.....if there are any ?'s about the factory speakers or deck or aftermarket speakers email me at Redwolf0069@aol.com thank you!!!!
  • m1685m1685 Member Posts: 71
    I got my new 2000 3/4ton 5-speed 4x4 about 3 weeks ago. I have noticed only one problem so far, and it is with the manual transmission. Sometimes when changing gears, there is usually a clank coming from the drivetrain. If I let out on the clutch slowly, it barely happens. I know most people could say just don't let out as fast, but I have driven a friend of mine's 98 3/4ton 454, and I have never noticed this on his, letting out fast or slow. Also, more than once I have not been able to get it into 3rd gear, I had to skip it and go to 4th. This has only happened two or three times. Usually it has trouble going into 3rd, but it does eventually go in. If ANYONE has any clue if this can be fixed or if anyone has had these troubles, please respond. I have not had the time to take it in to the dealer. I called them, but they just said they would have to look at it. I know how to drive a stick, I have just never come across this problem before. Thanks for any responses.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Some driveline clunking is normal when changing gears on a heavy duty like the 2500 5 speed.

    But trouble getting it into 3rd can mean a problem with the synchros. Had the same intermittent problem trying to get my Mustang into second gear. Usually fine, but then sometimes wouldn't want to slip into gear. Finally, I told the dealer service department about it, and they replaced the synchros under warranty, no haggling required. The best part was, it completely solved the problem on that car. Worst part was, they had to drop the transmission.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Tim, for all the bla bla bla I've done about aftermarket parts for my virtual truck, I've only purchased a rear anti-sway bar, rear air bags, and a compressor kit for the bags. I only need some camper tie down hardware and I have enough to roll. My next purchase will be Catch All floor mats, a bed liner, and when my bank account recovers I'll get the S.S. Putco Skins. Don't even ask about the stereo. I expect to keep this truck well over 10 years so I don't mind throwing money at it to finish it the way I like.
  • loverbuddloverbudd Member Posts: 13
    hey vince. what color is that 3/4 ton? i will buy it if its dark grey or black!
    thanks
    kevin
  • mksalemmksalem Member Posts: 42
    If you have the "leaky" rear windows on a extended cab that don't latch firmly you might want to try this . . . I had the passenger side replaced once and it helped a little but I still had a lot of wind noise at highway speeds especially if the inside air/blower was up past "2" and on "outside" air . . . These latches don't exert enough closing force - pretty wimpy affairs . . .

    This is NOT for the faint at heart :

    1) Open window and remove hinge/latch mechanism - it will snap out at the frame connection first and then rotate out at the glass. Not as scary as it looks - put latch aside for safe keeping.

    2) Keep glass open about 2 or 3 inches by stuffing a rag between glass and frame/truck body.

    3) Loop about 3 ft. of 1/4 inch nylon cord around the black plastic latch attach point on the frame in such a way that you pull it in towards the center of the rear part of the cab (an imaginary point in the middle of the back seat)

    4) Notice that the harder you pull, the more the frame/latch post will flex towards the center point.

    5) Now, fire up an electric heat gun; the kind you use for shrink tubing in the electronics business - mine was rated at about 1000 w - hair dryer probably won't work because the heat isn't concentrated enough.

    6) Slowly move it all around the base of the latch post/frame connection while exerting constant pressure on the nylon cord - about 30 seconds max. Remove heat/keep pressure on until cool.

    7) The correct amount of deformation on the post is not even noticable by the eye - too much heat and you will be very embarrassed when heading to the dealer. Might want to practice on something plastic first . . . (buy a 1/24 Monogram model kit of a Ford F-150 at WalMart and melt the hell out of it)

    The latch now really "snaps" shut - window is really seated against the rubber. No more noise.

    Pretty easy fix - no drilling or removing door/trim panels. I've done 3 trucks so far (all '99s) and no problems - hope it helps.
This discussion has been closed.