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Comments
Our Legacy 2.5i wagon gets about 30mpg. The only other AWD hybrid I could find is the Ford Escape which gets 29/27 so I don't see the value.
Even the Prius, which is rated at 48/45 would take several years to offset the price penalty from the hybrid, and lacks AWD, any towing capacity, and has lower roof weight limits. There are some tax benefits and "feel good" that might be associated with it though.
I would be more inclined to go with a diesel then a hybrid, personally.
I guess to answer your question, I haven't considered trading a 30 mpg car that meets all of my needs and expectations for for one that lacks features I use because the cost of gas went up (and is still cheaper than bottled water).
First, determine which plan you need. For example, if you already have a lot of miles on the car, then a plan with more miles is what you want. For me, I only put on about 10k a year, so the 6yr/60k plan made the most sense. You even want to graph out how many miles your car will have accumulated in 3 years to make sure you get the right plan.
You should definately approach the dealership to see if they can beat the offer (which they should be able to). If you want to save money, contact a Subaru dealership in New Hamshire or another state that doesn't have sales tax. (Yes, you can purchase the warranty through the mail/phone.)
Also, you take a look at the plan in the mail- I bet it was the classic or basic level plan. Most people prefer the gold plan since it covers more. Also, stay away from the $100 deductible. My experience is most repairs you might need during the warranty period won't cost thousands of dollars. Paying that deductible could actually deter you from using your warranty. Personally, I chose the $50 deductible because I thought it was a good compromise between the low cost $100 deductible and the expensive $0.
In the end, I still think taking the money you would have spent on the warranty and putting it into a high yield savings account is probably the best deal of all. There's nothing wrong with purchasing the warranty, though.
Good luck!
92 Legacy - never got my moneys worth, everything went to heck after the ext warranty ran out!
98 Legacy, got my moneys worth, new a/c, 2 new power antennas, oil leak (and they changed timingbelt with it), dealer did some freebies too - HVAC light bulbs which aren;t really covered
02 WRX - ball joint and strut so far.
-mike
I think viable electric commuter cars will be here within five years, and I'd much prefer to have one of those (like Subaru's recent G4e concept, please!) in my multi-car household.
Is the "integration kit" the only solution ?
What I'm wondering is: Is it possible to "control" the ipod e.g. changing songs etc. without the use of the ipod but directly with the stereo...?
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
Subaru iPod
Probably won't work with all models/years.
"2008 Impreza models without factory navigation and without satellite radio."
http://www.subaru.com/ipod/faq.jsp
and you can't do this or your HVAC won't work.
I believe the Ipod controller works on all 06+ legacy/outback radios.
-mike
-mike
Mark
-mike
You must have a manual transmission and be driving on a flat highway all the time.
I haven't averaged better than 19-22 mpg over 3 years and 48,000 miles with an automatic and a mix of 70% stop and go and 30% highway.
On the highway with cruise set at 70-75mph I get 27.5mpg
In the city with 90% city/traffic 10% highway I get 23mpg
With my 235-45-17 summer slicks I'm getting 19mpg due to my very aggressive driving with them on. Once I switch to my winters or regular all seasons, I'll jump back to 23mpg in the city.
-mike
I haven't averaged better than 19-22 mpg over 3 years and 48,000 miles with an automatic and a mix of 70% stop and go and 30% highway.
Yup, Legacy 2.5i 5spd manual wagon. In Michigan. 75% hwy 25% city. If it makes ya feel any better, Miss LilEngineerBoy gets about 25-27 mpg. I find that if you let the instantaneous MPG meter re-train your right foot, the fuel economy pay-off is rewarding.
Also, I am not that impressed with the power of the base 2.5 wagon. Its okay, but the Accord EX 4 cylinder spanks it (and gets better mileage). I know there is some weight and parasitic loss for the AWD, but something about the gearing and the power output make it feel a little pokey. I can't complain too much, at the time we got the wagon there was nothing in its transaction price range that could touch it feature-wise.
Subaru keeps sending us these guaranteed trade in value things, and thats great but until they make a Legacy Turbo wagon with a stick, we don't have so much interest (and since they dropped the Legacy wagon all together and haven't had a 5spd wagon since '05...I guess thats what happens when you get bought by Toyota).
(always checked when cold). I've brought it to dealer, said that as long it doesn't go below the "low" mark it's within specs. They checked to see if coolant got into the oil and did a pressure test, came back fine. Dealer says that as the system cycles
the readings will depend on where it stops. Any truth to this? I asked if I there is a time I should be adding coolant service manager says never. Hmm... now I've had an impreza before and it never used coolant like this and the levels were always stable. Also checked the differential fluid and it was on the "low" mark of dipstick, dealer just added more fluid and said everything's fine no leaks. Again, should I have to be adding differntial fluid, is this normal? I never had to w/ the impreza. Please help as I feel like something is not right w/ car and dealer not helping. Thank you so much!!!
There is usually an overflow hole, so the system will lose some fluid if it goes over that level. This might happen when the fluid is very hot and expands.
Just a SWAG.
The compression test was a good thing to do, now you know it's not leaking in and burning in the cylinders.
I agree that the compression test would be a good idea.
Ken M. (Seattle)
You should check the diff fluid at each oil change, I suppose. Gear oil is thick, mine takes 75w90.
My son and I watched the tech clear the line. With the car up on the lift, he just pulsed a few bursts of compressed air into the end of the line. He had obviously performed this procedure many times -- when he removed the nozzle, he stepped aside, and the blockage (a wad of dead leaves and other gunk) fell out, followed by a surprising amount of water. It took 90 seconds, maybe.
Now that I know how simple it is, and how easily it can be integrated into a normal oil change, I'm going to ask for preventative clearing every other oil change. I'm also popping the hood at every fill up and clearing leaves and debris as best I can.
A friend of mine recommended it to help with the altitude lag I seem to get when I'm in Mammoth (7,500 ft elevation).
And, regarding the vents, is it the vents on the far right and left, or the ones in the center of the dash? A small amount of air always comes from the ones on the far right and left as long as the fan is on.
-mike
-mike
I have been looking at craigslist for steel wheels/alloy wheels/whatever I can find, and I am wondering what fits. I know the Legacy has a HUGE offset (55) and it looks like even the WRX is a 53 offset. Is that close enough? What offset does the Outback and Forester have? How concerned about it do I really need to be (or what is the range for what works and what doesn't)? Do I need hub-centric wheels? The 5x100 is the easy part.
Thanks.
Brian
As was likewise mentioned by Brian, clutch pack slippage is normal (that is why they are there!), and they tend to have a pronounced smell when new. I smelled it for a while in both an 07 and an 08 Outback. Especially if I climbed hills/mountains in concert with tight curves. The 08 was definitely pungent a few weeks ago at Lake Tahoe when it had about 2000 miles on it, and I certainly did not overwork or abuse it.
23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd
-mike
Thanks!
Mike F.
-mike
I've got a 3-month-old OXT with MT5 and sometimes on a full-throttle push the engine will accelerate, then hesitate, then take off again. Not turbo lag - the hesitation occurs after a couple of seconds of full throttle. Any guesses? This seems like a dealer warranty issue to me. Maybe a bad spot in the throttle position sensor?
-mike
Good to read that its "normal" ...