Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
-mike
-mike
This winter, I temporarily have an 08 Outback, which had about 5000 miles on it when it first encountered snow. At 6500 miles now, it will stink a little from time to time, usually after a fresh snowfall over my steep, snow-packed driveway. The OE tires do not help it gain any reasonable traction...
The 08 is an auto, the 07 was a manual. My '96, which had 83K when I purchased and 220K at the end, never had that smell. I suspect, as you mentioned Dave, it goes away with age (use).
-mike
The Subaru Tech line has told me that this is not common and that the coolant must be going somwhere. To be continued.
As for rotors on my 02 H-6 Outback, they were turned once and then replaced under warranty. The Service Manager told me both times, that the rotors were no longer "true". When I traded in the car with 62K, there was a pulsation in the brake pedal which was not a good sign.
Contrary to that statement, Subaru's are famous for having warped rotors. Both of my Subarus had them, and virtually everyone I personally know with a Subaru, has had warped rotors.
Subaru rotors are very weak, and even modest overtightening of the lug nuts will cause them to warp. And we all know that most dealers and tire shops don't have their techs use clicker torque wrenches to tighten the lug nuts.
More recently, after any kind of service that requires wheels to be taken off, I loosen and retorque all lug nuts myself in three passes (54-64-74 ft-lb) after bringing the car home.
Dad had squeeky brakes but I changed the pads for him and used anti-squeel compound and that fixed it.
They were probably pad deposited rotors OR as you stated below over torqued wheels. Most of the 100s of subarus we've worked on over the years has only our hands working on them and we use torque sticks followed up with a torque wrench.
Most probable though is that a good portion of the rotors that people and mechanics THINK are warped are pad deposits though.
-mike
1st is the easiest and cheapest. Take your car out to a deserted road/street and get it up to about 50-60 and brake hard down to about 5mph. Repeat this about 6 or 7 times. Park the car and allow the pads and rotors to cool for about 20 min. This should generate enough heat and scrubbing action to loosen the deposits and "wipe" them clear by your pads.
If that fails you can pull your wheels and use some sand paper on the rotors to loosen up the deposits.
As a way to prevent this from happening, After heavy braking try to allow yourself to slow down before stopping. If you can't slow down early before a stop, then put the car in neutral or park w/o keeping your foot on the brake at the light. Pad deposits are created when you have a hot pad and rotor, come to a complete stop at a light or similar situation and keep your pads pressed against the rotor, the micro-fractures in the rotor surface pull the pad material out and embed it in the rotor.
-mike
I sure hope that the first thing a potential buyer says when they start driving the car is not, "Wow, there sure are a lot of rattles in here!" :sick:
Sure enough, every since I picked up the car that day, the thing sounds like I have a fart can on it. It is an obvious, metallic vibration and considering I have put about 160,000 miles on Subaru vehicles, at least 50 percent of which was during winter conditions and NEVER heard this sound before, I seriously doubt it is due to ice. I even went so far as to knock all the ice out from the rear bumper shell and from around the mufflers. No change. Another trip to the shop, I suppose, after the weather warms a bit and if I still have it. I have to think that it must be a broken or defective support bushing, but hard to say without putting the car on ramps and crawling underneath it. Not something I am keen on doing at -40, especially regarding a warranty issue.
Funny enough, this same dealership was actually quite successful in eliminating all rattles in my '07 (which was supposed to be a long-term ownership!) aside from the glove box, which they insisted on replacing but were completely unable to order the correct part, or so they said (over, and over!). As a result, I was deluded in my optimism this time around.
Dealers have "ears", i.e. a device that should help then narrow it down, but they likely won't here the rattle if the car isn't in motion.
Better yet - crank up the tunes. :shades:
Great suggestions, one and all!
1. The dealer puts 25-30 miles on the car each time I bring it in, so they are definitely driving it. They really have no good excuse for not hearing the rattles, but I suppose there is that "plausible deniability" factor. The surmised, after the second visit, that leaving it in their shop all day might reduce the likelihood of the rattles because the car is warmer, but they insist they left it outdoors on the 3rd visit and I drove it there sans heater that morning when it was about 5 degrees. All five rattles were creating beautifully unharmonious music all the way to their shop.
2. I usually prefer to not listen to music/radio, especially on short drives, as I prefer the music of the driving experience all by itself. I feel more connected to the car/road without the radio drowning out the machine sounds. However, I do prefer radio to rattle! When I do have the radio on, it is at a space-filling volume, and the rattles are not quite so annoying. Probably not surprising, but I almost always have the radio on in my Caravan. Not quite the same "driving experience" in that thing... am I wrong?!
3. Great idea regarding the close inspection while in motion. Maybe my neighbor will be willing to do that with me when he gets back to town from DC. After all, I am spending hours of my day keeping his house from freezing up while he is away!
We were even able to narrow it down to which axle, and which side. And we were right.
He changed both wheel bearings, right and left on the rear axle, because they should be replaced in pairs.
I'm convinced something is wrong w/ my car too regarding the coolant. Yet, despite trips to the dealer and speaking w/ service manager, says that only when it gets below the Add line then I need to be concerned. I had an impreza for 8 years prior and never have I had this issue. What does pulsation in the brake pedal mean?
Are there signs/sounds that will tell you rotors are warped? Just curious have you experienced a hesitation/stutter like it might stall?
Pulsation in the brake pedal in our Subarus has been a sign of warped rotors.
So what say you all? If I'm missing a belly pan, I want one when I'm still under warranty!
Our son, who is now out of a booster seat, has to keep his feet turned to the side when sitting in the back of our OB, especially now that he's wearing his winter boots all the time. It's a bit of a struggle to get in and out for him. I'm 6'4, so my seat is all the way back. We had no such issues with the Rondo.
Anyway, I'm starting to think of a replacement for my OB, and I must say, given we are a one car family, I think I am going to look for something a bit more spacious for my next vehicle.
Cheers.
-mike
My son's '98 Impreza had brake pulsation when he bought it, which I suspected was pad transfer. I took it out and did 4 hard stops from 80 mph down to 10 mph (as per the brake breakin website - not at home now, so I can't find the url), and it has been smooth ever since.
We DO retorque lug nuts after any wheel/tire service - I've seen what ham-fisted mechanics can do.
-mike
Try a van with power doors, you'll be hooked.
Or a Tribeca would do just fine.
Will look at Tribeca and a whole slew of other options. I helped my father pick out a Hyundai Sante Fe a few months ago, and he and my mother love it. Nice vehicle, and best warranty in the business in Canada. Although looks are kind of blah, Veracruz did catch my eye. Anyway, its a ways off, but I am paying a bit more attention to what's out there now.
"Thank you for your recent e-mail to Subaru of America, Inc. We appreciate you taking the time to contact us. Congratulations on the purchase of your new 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i Wagon!
While some 2008 Subaru Outback Wagon models come standard with an access cover that needs to be removed when changing the oil, this is not a feature on every model. The access cover is not standard on the Outback 2.5i Wagon models. It is standard only on the Outback Limited, Outback XT, and Outback 3.0R LL Bean Wagon models.
We have contacted the Publications Department regarding this and have asked that they consider making some changes in the owner’s manual to make this information clearer.
If you have any additional questions, please do not hesitate to contact us again. Thank you for the opportunity to be of service and we wish you many safe, happy miles on your new Outback Wagon!
Best wishes,
Gina Holwell
Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services Department"
UNQUOTE.
Nice of them to reply.
I really like the Veracruz, too. The interior is very plush, comfortable. I hear it drives a bit soft, though, compared to the sportier Tribeca.
-mike
Kevin
-mike
Any problems, that could possibly be related, at all before this?
Check the battery first; if it is good, try having someone lightly tap on the solenoid just before and while you are actively turning the key to start it. If the solenoid is jamming prior to engagement, the tapping will sometimes jar it loose and the car will start. Also, check the ground cable to make sure it is securely attached; a bad connection will cause increased resistance and that could prevent the starter from engaging.
Is this normal? It's my first time to drive an AWD car and don't know if this is related to the AWD.
Thanks.
-mike
If its a single crunch/click sound, I think it is normal. The anti-lock braking system does some self tests when the car turns on and that crunch is part of it.