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Comments
-mike
Anyway, after a couple of stops and reverses, he knew right away what it was. He explained it like this. Brake pads have some movement. When you pull into garage at night, your brake pads move forward a bit. When you back up, they shift and create a click or clunk sound. Just the pads changing their seating position. I guess my question is, does your sound happen under the same circumstances...ie. changing from reverse to forward or forward to reverse? Anyway, he said brakes are doing what they are supposed to, but probably should not be hearing it. He said some cleaning a lube would fix.
I left it for a while, but got sick of hearing it so took it to a mechanic in my neighbourhood and had him clean and relube all my brakes (much cheaper than dealer, and he did a thorough job). Technically, should do this once a year, especially up here where they use salt and sand on roads in winter. Good thing, because my rear brakes were seizing even though I use my hand brake all the time.
Anyway, long winded way of saying, I would have it checked out. If your car was sitting out on the lot for a while before you bought it, it could very well be that your sliders and pads need a bit of lube. Being a new car, they should do this no charge.
Cheers.
The sound does happened the first time shift from backup to forward (pulled from my garage), but not right away, it clicks after about 20-30 feet movement.
Thank you guys for the replies, it seems not a big issue, I will leave it for a while and take it to dealer if it still exist at then.
I would take it to get checked especially if car is new. When I had my brakes lubed, he found that inside front of driver side was slightly seized.
I now make it yearly ritual...getting brakes cleaned and lubed....after every winter. Avoids noises, headaches, and long-term brake repaire costs from premature wear of pads and rotors.
Cheers.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
lot of posts about VDC can it really make a dramatic improvement?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I'll be curious to find out what your experience has been since your posting.
Anybody else experiencing this problem?
I am looking for some input on the utility of an Outback. I will probably buy used but would consider new if the price is right. The vast majority of my driving is city commuting but I do enjoy fishing and hunting. How would an Outback handle levee roads and sand/gravel roads in wildlife areas or National Forests in the pursuit of such activities. My alternative is a pick-up of SUV but I would prefer to avoid the gas costs for such a vehicle given 99% of my driving is in the city.
Thanks,
Chris
When they drained my fluid it was as dark as oil. There was clearly something wrong. I am not encouraged by what your dealer is now telling you. I was under the impression that this 5 speed auto was nearly bulletproof. I hope I am not going through this again in 10K - 20K miles.
I am unaware of any documented difference between V and H rated tires with regard to handling if the tread and compound softness are similar. Wear rating....particularly an extra long tread life...may suggest a less sticky compound that could degrade handling.
However, H rated tires are also softer than V rated. My fear is that certain H rated tires will feel soft or "mushy" on turns compared to the V rated
I am unaware of any documented difference between V and H rated tires with regard to handling if the tread and compound softness are similar. Wear rating....particularly an extra long tread life...may suggest a less sticky compound that could degrade handling.
Same here, never heard of that.
Also don't forget those ratings are for sustained speeds. I'd consider myself a pretty fast driver and never do I sustain anything even close to 100mph. 80-90mph sustained, maybe, but even so a tire rated at 129 will be fine.
On track I have run tires with a 129 rating and those only got slippery after 25 min of extremely hard cornering.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
The higher the treadwear number, for the most part, the harder the tread and the less traction and cornering capability. The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire and the higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire. Yes yes, there are exceptions I'm sure, but that is kind of how it rolls out, so to speak.
That would make Load Range E that they use on light duty trucks the highest speed rating?
Also I have lots of R-compound tires that are very high speed ratings but are pretty weak tires to drive on the street.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
That would make Load Range E that they use on light duty trucks the highest speed rating?
Also I have lots of R-compound tires that are very high speed ratings but are pretty weak tires to drive on the street.
Sorry, should've used a period not an AND. Perhaps this will be more clear:
The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire. The higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire.
The other decision is type of tire; 1) High Performance 2)Grand Touring 3) Ultra High Performance. I've been to tirerack website and am more confused than ever.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have read about fuel pumps, spark plugs, cruise control calibrations... Can anyone speak for this problem AND how it was resolved?
Thanks,
Jon :sick:
You left out part of the description of the Potenzas: All Season If you live in a northern climate, you need either All Season or dedicated snow tires for winter. Ultra high performance are summer tires only!
Personally I have no problem with my RE92A Potenzas on my Outback 3.0R VDC. They seem to be a good compromise for Chicago.
You can look up vehicles here:
http://www.epa.gov/greenvehicles/Index.do
Get the code scanned and see what the code is.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
-mike
Here's the deal on the iPod Integration kit...
It will work IF you have a stereo that has a SATELLITE radio input. You turn it on with the "SAT" button and control it with the sat radio controls.
Yes, it was introduced for the Impreza models but it certainly does work with the Legacy/Outbacks as well. The buttons used to control certain functions aren't exactly the same but they are present on the stereo.
The sat radio functionality was introduced in the Legacy for the '07 models. It will NOT work on the '06 stereo.
I hope that clarifies some of the mis-information.
Cheers!
-Ian
Thanks.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Anyway, I need help from some of you guys who know your mechanics. My question is this: With the changing of axles and such, could this throw my alignment out of whack? Should the dealer automatically perform a 4 wheel alignment after replacing the axles, and should I insist they do so if they don't, or is completely unnecessary? I paid for a 4-wheel alignment back in November, and don't want to pay for another one in a few months because of this work.
Thx, and cheers.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I just put amsoil in the trans and rear diffy of the LGT, so hoping that helps, along with the amsoil in the engine.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Is there any people reporting head gasket issues in a 2005 or later model?
So far, I haven't notice any problem in my 2005 Legacy, but reading this threads I started to freak out!!
Anyway, they replaced the right shaft, and it seems to have solved the problem on that side, but the drivers side is still making the noise. I am going to see again today when I leave from work as the car will be nice and cold whether it still exists, and report back to the dealer. They may need to replace the driver side shaft as well.
Well as much as I love this car, there has been a few too many headaches with it. This Fall, I will be parting company with it and moving to crossover or SUV....just have not decided which one yet. Suppose that's the risk one takes with buying one of the first batch of a 1st year prodn vehicle.
Cheers.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
A peek at CR ratings show problem areas under the "Engine" category up until 2002, 2003 for one model.
All 2004 and later ratings for "Engine" earn the best possible Red Dot, i.e. much better than average reliability.
For a 2005 you should be fine.
Cheers.
-mike
My 05 OB is over 3 years old.
Uggghhh... guess I have to bring it in.