Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

1203204206208209214

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Single is fine, it is likely a combo of the ABS checking and the pads wiping the overnight rust off the rotors (the bare metal rusts in about 1-2hrs or so)

    -mike
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    I had a similar problem on my 05 OB XTL. While at the dealership, I mentioned my clicking sound to the service manager....great guy...used to race the soobs in rallys.

    Anyway, after a couple of stops and reverses, he knew right away what it was. He explained it like this. Brake pads have some movement. When you pull into garage at night, your brake pads move forward a bit. When you back up, they shift and create a click or clunk sound. Just the pads changing their seating position. I guess my question is, does your sound happen under the same circumstances...ie. changing from reverse to forward or forward to reverse? Anyway, he said brakes are doing what they are supposed to, but probably should not be hearing it. He said some cleaning a lube would fix.

    I left it for a while, but got sick of hearing it so took it to a mechanic in my neighbourhood and had him clean and relube all my brakes (much cheaper than dealer, and he did a thorough job). Technically, should do this once a year, especially up here where they use salt and sand on roads in winter. Good thing, because my rear brakes were seizing even though I use my hand brake all the time.

    Anyway, long winded way of saying, I would have it checked out. If your car was sitting out on the lot for a while before you bought it, it could very well be that your sliders and pads need a bit of lube. Being a new car, they should do this no charge.

    Cheers.
  • longmanlongman Member Posts: 4
    Went to a test drive in my neighborhood which is very quite and it's night time now, compare to the noisy day time I can listen very carefully, did many stop/go/reverse, I confirmed what I found, it's a single click per trip.

    The sound does happened the first time shift from backup to forward (pulled from my garage), but not right away, it clicks after about 20-30 feet movement.

    Thank you guys for the replies, it seems not a big issue, I will leave it for a while and take it to dealer if it still exist at then.
  • 5thmountain5thmountain Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I have a 2007 Turbo Outback and I have had the brakes looked at by the dealer twice because of the grinding noise I am getting. Both times they machined the rotors but said that there is still plenty of pad and that they are just noisy. I have also heard, through my car broker, that Subaru knows about this noise and has tried to fix the problem, but hasn't been able to yet. I would be interested to know if anyone out there has found a fix for the loud, grinding brake problem. Thanks.
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Same here, did not hear click as soon as tires began to role. Rather it was about the the end of the driveway, and more often than not, when I was turning the wheels.

    I would take it to get checked especially if car is new. When I had my brakes lubed, he found that inside front of driver side was slightly seized.

    I now make it yearly ritual...getting brakes cleaned and lubed....after every winter. Avoids noises, headaches, and long-term brake repaire costs from premature wear of pads and rotors.

    Cheers.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No issues with my brakes, even using the car on the road course. I do get scraping/noise in the morning or after the car has been sitting, but that's normal for disc brakes.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I have an 06 Outback and need to replace the tires. It came with Vrated, do I have to stay with those or would H be ok any difference in handleing? I've been reading a
    lot of posts about VDC can it really make a dramatic improvement?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd get anything rated at 100mph or higher, not sure of the rating system which lettter relates to that.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • cef_xtcef_xt Member Posts: 1
    I own an 05 Outback XT with the 5 speed automatic (same engine/transmission as your car). At about 10k miles I started experiencing this problem as well and it only got worse with time. At 30k I had the transmission replaced by the dealer. My car now has 42k miles and the problem has resurfaced a few thousand miles ago. Subaru of America does know what to do. The area rep even drove the car and stated that the shudder is "acceptable" and that they would not do anything more about it.

    I'll be curious to find out what your experience has been since your posting.

    Anybody else experiencing this problem?
  • crs4_00crs4_00 Member Posts: 10
    Hi All,
    I am looking for some input on the utility of an Outback. I will probably buy used but would consider new if the price is right. The vast majority of my driving is city commuting but I do enjoy fishing and hunting. How would an Outback handle levee roads and sand/gravel roads in wildlife areas or National Forests in the pursuit of such activities. My alternative is a pick-up of SUV but I would prefer to avoid the gas costs for such a vehicle given 99% of my driving is in the city.

    Thanks,
    Chris
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    H rated tires are good for up to 129 MPH. Unless you have the turbo, your Outback can not even approach anywhere near that speed. So, H-rated should be just fine.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Wow, ironic timing. I had my 06 3.0R in for this same issue in late December. It has 30 K on the odometer. The dealer finally has Subaru approval to put in a new transmission. Apparently remanufactured units are not available and God himself had to approve of a new transmission being pulled from the system. It should go in sometime next week.

    When they drained my fluid it was as dark as oil. There was clearly something wrong. I am not encouraged by what your dealer is now telling you. I was under the impression that this 5 speed auto was nearly bulletproof. I hope I am not going through this again in 10K - 20K miles.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Given good tires, the car should do quite well in those conditions.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    I would definately purchase the tires from a vendor that offers a "30 day test drive" on the tires if you're going with the H rated. Yes, H rated tires are cheaper, and chances are you won't go 129 mph. However, H rated tires are also softer than V rated. My fear is that certain H rated tires will feel soft or "mushy" on turns compared to the V rated.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    However, H rated tires are also softer than V rated. My fear is that certain H rated tires will feel soft or "mushy" on turns compared to the V rated

    I am unaware of any documented difference between V and H rated tires with regard to handling if the tread and compound softness are similar. Wear rating....particularly an extra long tread life...may suggest a less sticky compound that could degrade handling.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Replying to: plim77 (Jan 22, 2008 2:06 pm)

    However, H rated tires are also softer than V rated. My fear is that certain H rated tires will feel soft or "mushy" on turns compared to the V rated

    I am unaware of any documented difference between V and H rated tires with regard to handling if the tread and compound softness are similar. Wear rating....particularly an extra long tread life...may suggest a less sticky compound that could degrade handling.


    Same here, never heard of that.

    Also don't forget those ratings are for sustained speeds. I'd consider myself a pretty fast driver and never do I sustain anything even close to 100mph. 80-90mph sustained, maybe, but even so a tire rated at 129 will be fine.

    On track I have run tires with a 129 rating and those only got slippery after 25 min of extremely hard cornering.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The speed rating has to do with a tire's ability to withstand high temperatures and higher forces. A V-rated tire is stronger and more thermally compliant than a H-rated tire. To make an extreme example, Blizzaqs are Q-rated (I think that is like 85mph or something) and you know how soft and squishy those are when cornering. Contrast that to even a T-rated touring tire and you can see how a T rated tire is sturdier than a Q rated tire.
    The higher the treadwear number, for the most part, the harder the tread and the less traction and cornering capability. The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire and the higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire. Yes yes, there are exceptions I'm sure, but that is kind of how it rolls out, so to speak.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire and the higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire.

    That would make Load Range E that they use on light duty trucks the highest speed rating?

    Also I have lots of R-compound tires that are very high speed ratings but are pretty weak tires to drive on the street.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire and the higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire.

    That would make Load Range E that they use on light duty trucks the highest speed rating?

    Also I have lots of R-compound tires that are very high speed ratings but are pretty weak tires to drive on the street.


    Sorry, should've used a period not an AND. Perhaps this will be more clear:

    The higher the speed rating the sturdier the carcass of the tire. The higher the load rating the stronger the sidewalls of the tire.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Thank you for all who posted regarding H vs V tires, it was a tremendous help. Does anyone know if the 06 Outback is a ULEV or PZEV vehicle?
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    06 Outback wagon came w/ high performance V rated tires. The Bridgestone Potenza were terrible, not getting them again. After reading all posts, the view is H have a softer sidewall and V is stiffer. I'm still a bit confused as which to choose?
    The other decision is type of tire; 1) High Performance 2)Grand Touring 3) Ultra High Performance. I've been to tirerack website and am more confused than ever.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated! :D
  • jonkronjonkron Member Posts: 5
    Hi. This problem just came up on my 05GTltd and it seems to be a common thread w/the turbo engines. However, no one has posted any resolutions to a fix - other than somebody getting his car replaced by the factory... My wagon has been mostly trouble free to this point and just passed 64K.

    I have read about fuel pumps, spark plugs, cruise control calibrations... Can anyone speak for this problem AND how it was resolved?

    Thanks,
    Jon :sick:
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    06 Outback wagon came w/ high performance V rated tires. The Bridgestone Potenza were terrible, not getting them again.

    You left out part of the description of the Potenzas: All Season If you live in a northern climate, you need either All Season or dedicated snow tires for winter. Ultra high performance are summer tires only!

    Personally I have no problem with my RE92A Potenzas on my Outback 3.0R VDC. They seem to be a good compromise for Chicago.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    California-emissions-spec '06 Outbacks are SULEV Level II. Other '06 Outbacks are Bin 5 (LEV Level II?).

    You can look up vehicles here:
    http://www.epa.gov/greenvehicles/Index.do
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Check Engine/Cruise light Blinking can come from anything, even something as simple as a non-tightened gas cap.

    Get the code scanned and see what the code is.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • khallockkhallock Member Posts: 63
    I've had water coming from under the dash in the front passenger side for years. EVERY time I bring it to the dealer they "clean" the line like you described, but a week later its happening again. I brought it back a 4th time and they found a kink in the line supposedly and it was supposed to be fixed. But 3 weeks later the water is leaking into the car again. I'm pretty fed up with it. The last time they looked at it was August. It only happens in hot weather with the AC running.
  • jonkronjonkron Member Posts: 5
    I was told it was the waste gate solenoid. $50 for the part, an hr ($85) labor.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds viable. Although your car might still be under warranty?

    -mike
  • goneskiiangoneskiian Member Posts: 381
    Sorry I haven't been back in here to check for any questions!

    Here's the deal on the iPod Integration kit...

    It will work IF you have a stereo that has a SATELLITE radio input. You turn it on with the "SAT" button and control it with the sat radio controls.

    Yes, it was introduced for the Impreza models but it certainly does work with the Legacy/Outbacks as well. The buttons used to control certain functions aren't exactly the same but they are present on the stereo.

    The sat radio functionality was introduced in the Legacy for the '07 models. It will NOT work on the '06 stereo.

    I hope that clarifies some of the mis-information.

    Cheers!
    -Ian
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    Does anyone know if there are any plans to put the 3.6 l engine from the 2008 Tribeca into the upcoming Outback either for the 2009 or 2010 model year, either as standard equipment or as an option?

    Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Actually in MY10 we will get a larger Legacy/Outback about A6 sized with the 3.6L engine from the tribeca putting out about 300hp.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    Thanks, Mike.
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    I have had a clicking noise upon acceleration when cold outside for quite sometime on my 05 OB XTL. Early 07, they changed the left front axle. Seemed to solve the problem for a while, then it started up again...coming from left front again. Dealer could not diagnose the problem with certainty so the fiddled with the car for a day and in the end decided to swap axles to see if that changed anything. Well, turns out the noise has now shifted to other side which suggests that the new (07 installed) axle was the culprit.

    Anyway, I need help from some of you guys who know your mechanics. My question is this: With the changing of axles and such, could this throw my alignment out of whack? Should the dealer automatically perform a 4 wheel alignment after replacing the axles, and should I insist they do so if they don't, or is completely unnecessary? I paid for a 4-wheel alignment back in November, and don't want to pay for another one in a few months because of this work.

    Thx, and cheers.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup, since they have to disconnect the lower struts which is where the adjustment for the alignment is, you would need a new alignment after an axle replacement.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    So on the ride up I75 from Cincy to the D, the Legacy 2.5i wagon returned just shy of 32 mpg at 75-80 mph. I thought that was fantastic. Properly inflated tires, real fluids, and trying to anticipate traffic helps alot, but I thought that was great for an awd vehicle.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    wow that's impressive!

    I just put amsoil in the trans and rear diffy of the LGT, so hoping that helps, along with the amsoil in the engine. :)

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • drbeandrbean Member Posts: 1
    I've seen in many forums that subaru apparently fixed the head gasket problem in the new generation of 2.5 H4 engines (from 2003?). Does anyone know exactly what they did to fix this? what's the new design or improvement? any website that explains this in detail?

    Is there any people reporting head gasket issues in a 2005 or later model?

    So far, I haven't notice any problem in my 2005 Legacy, but reading this threads I started to freak out!!
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Thx Mike. I asked if an alignment was needed when I dropped off the vehicle, and the shop foreman said no. I was waiting for him to finish and was going to bring up the strut issue, but he beat me to it. He explained that for the replacement of the axle shaft (maybe I should have been more clear on this point ie. axle vs axle shaft), they did not need to touch any of the alignment adjustment points, including the struts.

    Anyway, they replaced the right shaft, and it seems to have solved the problem on that side, but the drivers side is still making the noise. I am going to see again today when I leave from work as the car will be nice and cold whether it still exists, and report back to the dealer. They may need to replace the driver side shaft as well.

    Well as much as I love this car, there has been a few too many headaches with it. This Fall, I will be parting company with it and moving to crossover or SUV....just have not decided which one yet. Suppose that's the risk one takes with buying one of the first batch of a 1st year prodn vehicle.

    Cheers.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, the axle shaft, which I'm assuming is attached to the CV joints is a single unit, ie: you don't replace just the shaft, you replace the whole axle w/ CV joints. It's been a while since I've done this but I'm 99% sure you have to take off the 2 lower bolts on the strut in order for the CV/Axle assembly to be removed.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    To followup, I spoke to the guy who does the mechanical stuff at our shop. He said it is possible to do it w/o undoing the bolts.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, they revised the material used, and that happened well before 2005.

    A peek at CR ratings show problem areas under the "Engine" category up until 2002, 2003 for one model.

    All 2004 and later ratings for "Engine" earn the best possible Red Dot, i.e. much better than average reliability.

    For a 2005 you should be fine.
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Thx, Mike. The foreman is a good guy....has been around Soobs for a long time (used to rally imprezas) so he knows his stuff. But it's always nice to have a 2nd opinion.

    Cheers.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Yeah, I did not need to mess with any of the alignment bolts when I replaced the axles on my '96. I did have to move the wheel assembly around quite a bit, but the alignment remained perfect after the replacement. Or, maybe I should say that it was not noticeably different from pre-replacement, aside from the absence of the horrid grinding noises. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah as long as you don't undo those lower bolts you are good. On the impreza you actually need to undo them most of the time to get the clearance to pull out the CV/Axle.

    -mike
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    Yesterday it snowed. There was a slight hissing sound under the hood and a burning rubber/plastic smell. What could it be?
    My 05 OB is over 3 years old.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    Looking at my car from the window... I see the exhaust system hanging a little low.
    Uggghhh... guess I have to bring it in.
  • marauder3marauder3 Member Posts: 4
    I have a burning rubber smell on my 2004 outback. When I come off the interstate and stop at a light I have toe smell. I also smell it when I park the car after running on the road and restart it. It's a strong rubber burning type smell. Anyone have an idea as to what it can be?
  • marauder3marauder3 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 outback with the 2.5 engine and I had to have the head gaskey replaced. It was leaking oil and dripping on the exhaust. I got a burning oil smell that tokk me going to two shops before the problem was found.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Wow! I'm sorry to hear about your head gasket leak. I've got an 06 outback and that sure got my attention. Is Subaru going to cover it? How many miles do you have?
  • marauder3marauder3 Member Posts: 4
    I had a little over 60K miles. I have an extended warranty and I got it fix that way. Hopefully mine was a random occurence and not a trend.
Sign In or Register to comment.