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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    It was leaking oil? I am betting that to be an isolated occurrence. The unprecedented head gasket problems of years past involved exterior coolant leaks or internal leaks; I never heard about external oil leaks with the head gaskets.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    MT or AT?

    For the MT it's 3.9 in the Trans/Front Diffy and 0.9 in the rear.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • feilofeilo Member Posts: 128
    I'm thinking of an Amsoil "mod" on my 08 OB @15K coming up. How many quarts do I need for the trans and rear diff?
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I took car to dealer w/ sqeaky brake issue (9,000miles), which it had been doing it every day for 2wks when applying the brakes. When I picked up the car they said the infamous " couldn't duplicate", but the tech cleaned them as a precaution anyway. The car had 20mpg on the the computer gage, when I got it back it was 17mpg. What did they do to my car!!!!!??? Oh yeah, the brakes didn't squeak when I got it back. Miraculous. They didn't test drive the car cause the mileage was the same.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Hi all,
    I'm on the fence about selling my subaru outback and getting a car w/ front wheel drive that gets better gas mileage and just put snow tires in winter. I already put snows on the subie. We do get a good amount of snow in winter here. I had an impreza lived in vermont never put snows on it and it did superbly uphills. The outback is not that much heavier by about 200 lbs and 9 inches longer. Would FWD w/ snows and traction control be good too? Does an impreza handle differently? Thank you
  • feilofeilo Member Posts: 128
    Its a 5MT - thanks!
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    If the car was idling for a bit, fuel economy would drop while the odometer mileage stayed the same.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I went from a Forester to a minivan, because we simply need a lot more space.

    Mine's a Sienna, with TRAC, and the light snow we've had a few times since I've had it have given it trouble climing my driveway. I'm not looking forward to more than 2". I'll probably have to plow the driveway first, or maybe back up the driveway so the weight shifts to the drive wheels.

    We still have a Legacy and it basically laughed off the 2" or so that gave the Sienna a hard time.

    Snow tires help a lot, no doubt. I had some on the Forester for a while.

    Still, when going up a steep hill, weight shifts to the back, so a FWD without any weight on the front wheels still might struggle.

    For me, personally, I'd drive our Legacy with all-season tires over our Sienna with snow tires. I might get more wheelspin but I find it easy to control.

    The Sienna's TRAC actually hinders the ascent - it brakes you and you lose momentum climbing.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Did you check the oil level to ensure it is full? Aside from that, it very well could be a valve issue. I have never had a problem with Subaru honoring warranty work, but I have also not brought it in for issues that could be of debatable origin. In all cases, being nice, but persistent, is good.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yep, snow tires will make a huge amount of difference whether the car is FWD, RWD, or AWD. But, the car will never be as capable as a Subaru. Depending on your needs (and hills, especially), a FWD could do just fine as long as you remember what you are driving. ;)

    Aside from the far more rewarding driving characteristics of the car, I like Subaru because, as a one-car family, I know I can depend on it to get me anywhere at any time.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • 5thmountain5thmountain Member Posts: 5
    I have had the squeeky, grinding brake noise off and on for several months now. I was finally told by one of the technicians that it is a huge problem (they had 5 complaints in one day). He said it was the hard brake pads that Subaru uses. He said that since there is no asbestos in the pads any longer, the pads are much harder. He said we should all complain to Subaru to use a different pad. Hope that helps!
  • jdduncanjdduncan Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Outback w/ the 2.5. The car only has 22k miles, but the engine has developed a persistent knock (peck). Has anyone heard of this on any other Subaru's? It is currently at a local Subaru dealer being looked at. This is my first experience doing warranty work through Subaru. How are they in performing and paying for the work? I have asked several mechanics and they said it was a valve. I noticed where older models experience a valve noise for the first 15 minutes or so, but this noise does not seem to go away. Any advice?
  • jdduncanjdduncan Member Posts: 3
    Oil level is full. The Subaru Dealer told me that if they get into the motor and find that the motor has been tampered w/ or find signs it had been ran low on oil I would be liable for the costs. Good thing is they will not find either case. The motor has never been tampered with. They did ask for my maintenance history. Right now I am being patient and nice like you say. I just hope all this gets resolved and my car is fixed.

    One thing about this car is that is sat for a considerable amount of time (6 months)w/o being driven due to my travel and the fact I have 3 other vehicles. Any idea if this would have an impact on this situation?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I wouldn't tell them it sat for 6 months. A car really needs to be ran at least 1x a month to keep things lubricated, there are parts that are only lubricated when the car is running, and by not running it, they could have been compromised.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    While it would be better for the vehicle to run it like you said...

    I could be wrong here but I don't think there's anything mentioned in the warranty that says it must be driven at least "X" times per month to keep the warranty intact. I don't see how telling them the car sat a few months would affect a decision on whether or not to honor the warranty. A car could even sit on a Subaru dealer's lot that long (thinking of slow movers like Baja, & early Tribecas). 6 months is even within the 7.5-month maximum timeframe allowed between oil changes.

    It's probably nothing you need to announce, but I also think it's not something you'd want to deliberately hide. Thoughts, Mike? :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yeah, I agree with Jeff on this one. While six months is quite a while, something like that should not compromise a warranty. One thing to consider though, for future reference, is to use synthetic oil in your vehicles if you know they will receive periodic use. Synthetics provide far better protection to engine components than conventional oils - even when the engine is not in use. Again, I am not insinuating that this condition is a result of the periodic use; I am stating that synthetics will offer your engines (and other drivetrain parts) better long term protection.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • yushinyushin Member Posts: 3
    Hi Outbike,

    Thanks for sharing your findings.

    I think I am experiencing exactly the same problems. Mine is also 2006 Outback Wagon 2.5i, automatic.

    1) Strange noises from left (and sometimes even right) lower A-pillar area.
    2) Wind gusting noises from left lower A-pillar at 70mph+.

    I tried to stop noise of 1) by gently pusing the plastic cover of A-pillar.
    And it sometimes worked. When you're hearing noises of 1), please try keep pusing lower A-pillar, and let me know what happens, if you can.

    For 2), I don't know how it is happennig.

    Cheers,
    Yushin
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I agree that it shouldn't effect the warranty, however, as you said I wouldn't announce it.

    As for slow movers sitting on lots, new cars have break-in oil and special coatings that come off/wear-in in once they start being used. I think they are setup from the factory knowing they will be sitting for a while before delivery.

    Definitely though I would suggest at least starting it up once a month and drive it around the block to keep things lubricated.

    -mike
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Definitely though I would suggest at least starting it up once a month and drive it around the block to keep things lubricated.

    If it were mine I would warm it up completely before shutting it off. Crankcase condensate...probably acidic...should be boiled off by getting the engine to full operating temperature for a while. Though fuel injected engines don't get as much raw gas starting as older carbureted engines, crank case oil dilution at start-up is still a possibility.
  • yushinyushin Member Posts: 3
    Hi Outbike,

    ** I post this again since it went to wrong thread previously.

    Thanks for sharing your findings.

    I think I am experiencing exactly the same problems. Mine is also 2006 Outback Wagon 2.5i, automatic.

    1) Strange noises from left (and sometimes even right) lower A-pillar area.
    2) Wind gusting noises from left lower A-pillar at 70mph+.

    I tried to stop noise of 1) by gently pusing the plastic cover of A-pillar.
    And it sometimes worked. When you're hearing noises of 1), please try keep pusing lower A-pillar, and let me know what happens, if you can.

    For 2), I don't know how it is happennig.

    Cheers,
    Yushin
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Is it normal for an automatic subaru to roll backwards while you're waiting at a stop light on a hill as you take your foot off the brake to give it gas? Mine does this and am nervous about hitting someone especially when they don't leave enough room behind me. I thought automatics weren't supposed to roll. :surprise:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Some do. I've seen it on some rental cars.
  • yushinyushin Member Posts: 3
    Hi rebel71,

    I think it depends on how much steep it is.
    I saw my 06 outback (2.5i) alywas rolling on hills at San Francisco and Seattle downtown. And it rolls so scary to my wife's fearness.
    As you might know, there're may all-way stop signs on top of the hill roads in San Fran...and all the cars are rolling back a foot..^^.

    But I am sure it is normal for subaru auto transmissions since it never roll on usual hills.

    -yushin
  • longmanlongman Member Posts: 4
    The click/clack sound actually happens at the first time when the can hits the speed of about 7mph, not related to the distance, if I keep driving lower than that speed it will never occur.

    So I took it to the dealer last week, they spent one hour checking everything (as they claimed) and said this is normal, they said the noise came from a reverse lock switch, which prevents false changing from N to R.

    I am not totally believe this sine the noise is a single one, should it happen every time when hit the 7mph speed if it's a feature? Does anyone know this feature?

    Thanks.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I still vote for it being the ABS system self check.
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    I know the feature. My 05 Outback does it. It's very quiet and you have to listen to it. It only "clicks" once, and I only notice it when I move the car after parking. I had a 03 Subaru Baja as a loaner car in past. It did the same thing, and the noise was more distinct/louder.

    If you want to test it out, put it into D, then while idling forward shove it into R. It'll do it. Drive forward until it "clicks" and it won't go past N.

    It's a good feature to have. I suppose some Subarus "click" louder than others.
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    All the cars I've ever driven are automatics, and they all roll backwards if the grade is steep enough. I have an 05 Outback, my wife has an 06 Legacy. Our previous cards did the same thing on the same hill. (Pittsburgh has a lot of stop signs at the tops of hills.) Supposedly, if the idle speed were increased, it wouldn't roll, but increasing the idle speed will make your gas mileage worse.

    If you want it to not roll, put it into 2nd while you're waiting. It will hold its position on most hills. Then put it back into D when you start moving.
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    and they all roll backwards if the grade is steep enough.

    So true.

    If you don't want the car to roll backwards on a steep grade, why not simply put your foot on the brake?!
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Not sure which post you were refering to about simply put your foot on the brake. If it was my original post, I said my foot was on the brake. It's the split second you take it off the brake to hit the gas that it rolls. Thanks to all who replied.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I opened the rear windows today and noticed they only go down so far maybe a little more than halfway, is this normal?
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    Yes. In most new cars, the rear seat windows should only go down halfway. I think it's a child safety thing, not a problem.

    Besides, you'd never have the same identical problem such as this on the left and right sides....
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    It's just due to the shape of the doors... Look at that cutout for the wheel well... Your window is square on the bottom, but your door isn't..

    One nice thing about a CR-V.. Rear windows go all the way down..

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  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    I have the same thing. Last night it was very strong. I replaced one of the belts back in June & it doesn't seem to be that. It seems like I can actually smell it coming through the heater vents also. It's intermittent and I can't pinpoint it. I do have the situation with the head gasket leaks, I just need to add coolant about once a month or so. That odor is entirely different. Mine is an '02 2.5 L Outback.
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    I wouldn't go back to FWD, even though we don't get a ton of snow. True Subarus have never be known be gas mileage champs, but I think the gas mileage penalty is well worth it. Another reason is sometimes I have to park on the grass, or really right now mud, instead of the driveway. On a rainy day like today after the snow melt there's a lot of mud. There's no way a FWD car would get out of there. I was surprised though how well my company '08 FWD Ford Escape does in snow. Maybe it's because of more weight & larger tires.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    It's a defect. Take it back and complain.

    Mine go down all the way.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    It's a defect? On an Outback? No, they really don't go down all the way - the rears only went partially down even 10+ years ago.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    c'mon work with me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    :D

    That's just mean. ;)
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    whaddya think this is, NASIOC? :P
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    I rode in and drove a 2008 Mini Cooper S today!
    Dual panel sunroof, 6 speed... AND.... a height adjustable passenger seat (something Subaru should look into)!

    very nice car. :shades:
  • jonkronjonkron Member Posts: 5
    My power seats on my 05GT Limited SW has height adjustable seats. I am 6"3' so I have it all the down but my wife adjusts it up. I have four minor complaints - which I think have mostly been addressed on newer models. They are: telescoping steering wheel, memory presets for seat and mirrors, rear center armrest - which are/were avl. on Outback models but not on the GT... weird - and finally, the GT stylings need to differ more to set them apart from the standard model.

    It should be noted my wife has a loaded Lexus RX400h. Her car is one year newer and has more rattles (fit/finish...?) then my car and I think the interior of my car looks on par or superior. Sure, her's is a hybrid and quieter inside (and will continue to be as long as Subaru doesn't use door frames surrounding their windows... and based on the new Imprezas, it appears they are changing this). But if I lay off the gas pedal and keep the turbo at bay, I can get 22 or 23 MPG. She has a nav screen which wasn't offered as an option on the 05's. Where'd all the money go?

    Other than that, for a car that costs nearly $20K less, Subaru's performance/value proposition is still tops in our world. I look forward to the larger, even more refined legacy's in 2010. It still seems odd to me that Subaru has been so late to the hybrid/green model game... but the diesels and extra-life battery hybrids coming soon should keep them competitive. I just hope they continue to be priced affordably... and the service department needs to really step up their game.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    "Sure, her's is a hybrid and quieter inside (and will continue to be as long as Subaru doesn't use door frames surrounding their windows... and based on the new Imprezas, it appears they are changing this)."

    Actually, the trend toward framed windows started in 2005 with the '06 B9 Tribeca, then the Impreza last year, and this year the Forester. Legacy & Outback are the only ones left w/out.

    Also, Subaru scrapped their hybrid program shortly after Toyota gained a small stake in them. Subaru developed a superior system, but with their smaller economy of scale couldn't get the costs down enough to make it viable at the time. They then decided to focus on diesel. If they go the hybrid route in the future, they may try to utilize Toyota's technology there, simply because it costs much less. Personally, I could see them skipping hybrid altogether. With the rave reviews their diesel's gotten, and their recent statement that they wanted to be the leading electric vehicle manufacturer, I think those two technologies could anchor their "green" effort. Their new diesel gets better highway MPG than a Prius, and an electric vehicle would be better around town than Prius. If I recall correctly, Subaru says their upcoming round of electrics will go 120 miles or so on a charge, and can be charged nearly 100% in 15 minutes. That'd be perfect for the vast majority of the driving people do... perfect city car, and would be a good primary car in a 2-car household. I could easily see a Subaru electric in my household for everyday use, with a diesel Forester, Outback or Tribeca for trips.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Imagine a diesel-electric hybrid...

    Though I gotta say, I saw diesel for $4.25 in my area. Ouch.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah keep those electric meters running, I like when they run cause my company stock increases! In the long run I'm not certain that "plug-in" cars will actually save you anything and environmentally they are just as bad as gassers cause well most of the power comes from coal which is even dirtier than gasoline. :) Of course if people weren't so scared of nukes then it wouldn't be much of an issue but we haven't seen a new nuke built in the US since the early 80s IIRC.

    -mike
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Hey now, some of us get our power primarily from hydro. ;)

    We could save a lot on fuel distribution alone. If people could plug in at home, it'd be like having a home gas station. Imagine how many fewer stops you'd make for gas (or to recharge in this case) if your tank was already filled up every time you left home. We'd have fewer gas stations and fewer trucks on the road hauling fuel (which would in itself save additional gas, reduce emissions and slightly reduce wear and tear on roadways). On the flip side, in the near term there'd likely be more train use bringing coal to powerplants. I've gotta think it's more efficient (and easier to control pollution) having a greater percentage of energy generated in fewer locations than it is having millions of combustion engines (in various states of upkeep) generating their own power.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    You're not with New York Power Authority, are you Mike?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nah I work at PSEG in NJ. Funny thing is that the NYPA will actually start buying power from us soon because almost all the plants in NYC are at or above capacity. Funny thing is that even if you theoretically are buying "green" power, chances are that your actual power may or may not be "green" since it just all goes into a pool on the grid and no grid is 100% green. It's amazingly complicated how the transmission and distribution systems of the power grid work. Currently our company is upgrading all our 26kV lines to 69kV because the tax law is different for "transmission" (power plant to switching stations and switching stations to sub stations) than it is for "distribution" (sub stations to your house).

    I think we need to get the power storage problem settled before we can really move forward and unfortunately there just isn't a real good way to store electricity. Even in the power grid there is no "storage" capacity for power and power companies have been working on this for the better part of 100 years. The more demand for electric power will increase the cost of generation, transmission and distribution as well. They trade electric now, the same (in the same market actually) as Oil, Gas, etc.

    Interestingly we have moved most of our cars/trucks to hybrids here at the company. I think our group's next car will be an Escape Hybrid.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm pretty sure we will need more nuke power. It has bad PR but it'll be needed.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Excellent. They can build mine in North Dakota. ;)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So long as you are within about 400 miles or so of ND, then you can get power from that Nuke. THat's about the limit on how far (maybe even a little less) you can "transport" electric power.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
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