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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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Comments

  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Sometimes TSB's are nothing more than a better procedure for doing a repair, info on new tools or just general notes the manufacturer issues on certain components.
  • kouc52kouc52 Member Posts: 2
    I have both TBS on the Banjo filter problem... thanks for the info I will use your advise. I don't want no bail out i just don't think it is fair to be blamed for a problem i did not cause and Subaru should fix. :sick: :lemon:
  • dgreene1dgreene1 Member Posts: 9
    robr2, you're right. There's a Legacy TSB right now about paint colors. But there are also TSB's out with programming changes to tweak the car's performance. The TSB about my seat issue has appeared to fix it. :-)
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Just curious, I've got an 08 Legacy and can never seem to comfortable in the seat. It's an electric seat and the padding seems lacking. The seat is narrow and the side bolsters are hard. I'm small so it's not because I'm large. I miss my 95 impreza seats they were comfortable. Does anyone else experience fatigue, and back issues from the seat. I was going to buy a 2010 impreza but it seems like those seats are similar.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I had an '08 Outback, which I suspect has the same seats, and I loved them. The seats are very firm, but they form well to my body. I drove that car about 5,500 miles over a five-week span (1200 miles in 24 hours at one point) and experienced no fatigue (from the seat!) at all. I really enjoy Subaru seats.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've said it a few times, but we're all shaped differently.

    Try some padded seat covers, perhaps?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    So at ~56k the front brake pads are starting to look less than stellar. I am trying to decide what I want to do with replacements. Right now I am thinking EBC Greenstuffs or the Hawk HPS pads, the Akebono ones that seem to be all over, and Satisfied GranSports. I am thinking its an order to JC Whitney or tire rack and get to it next weekend.
    Any thoughts?
    Also, as long as I'm asking, any thoughts on rotors?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2010
    The main brake discussion is over on the forum named "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"

    Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors. Cheap rotors (Mexico,China) will tend to warp or rust long before the pads wear out.

    For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)

    Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.

    Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentually is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The main brake discussion is over on the forum named "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"

    Cool, I will head over there and check things out.

    Basically... The recommendation is to go with diecent (not the cheapest) rotors. (Bendix, Raybestos, ...etc). If you want better stuff, go with German-steel such as ATE or Zimmermann rotors.

    I have had good luck with Brembo blanks, and ATE slotted in the past, I just didn't know if there was anything newer I should be aware of. It sounds like I am still on the right track.

    For pads, DO NOT get so-called 'racing' or 'high-performace'... you will be sorry. These pad-compisitions need to hot before they start to work well. If a moose jumps out infront of you on a cold morning, you WILL NOT have time to warm up the brake-pads before you want to stop. (Picture brake-pedal pushed as hard as you can and the car barely slows down for the first 50 feet)

    Oh man, memories of track days at Buttonwillow; we would go on Saturday, put race pads on, do the track day, drive back to the hotel, wake up in the morning, drive back to the track, and then somehow manage to avoid a 30 car pileup (all of us going to the event from the hotel) on the off ramp of I5 because everyone has stone cold race pads...idiots we were. Anyway, I definitely understand heat ranges and that a street car needs brakes that work when cold.

    Instead, look for a 'mild upgrade' from stock pads. Beware that more braking power usually means more black dust on your wheels. Akebono is a CERAMIC-based pad. These tend to make less black dust than organic pads.

    If I can get a little more bite than the stock pad and less dust, that is very appealing to me. Something rotor friendly is nice too, but I am less worried about it. My wife and kid are in this car, I want it to stop when told.

    Also, if you purposefully take the time to "season" the rotors before you "break in" the pads, you will be rewarded with many miles of excellent braking performance. Seasoning the rotors essentially is laying down a thin layer of pad-material on the surface of the rotor while you de-stress the metal with heat-cycling.

    That is an excellent point. Even the S&P dimpled slotted rotors JC Whitney had on special had instructions for how to bed the rotors and seat the pads.

    I think one of the things i wanted to say also was thanks for a very thorough, well explained answer that covered a lot of the newbie mistakes. I think on forums like this a willingness to explain all the pitfalls, tips and tricks goes a long way.
  • astarothastaroth Member Posts: 6
    edited April 2010
    I am looking at buying a deep blue '05 Legacy 2.5i sedan, automatic, has 100k miles on it, private seller who is the 2nd owner and bought it last year at 90k miles. The 1st owner replaced head gasket and timing belt at some point (not seen Carfax yet), and the 2nd owner recently replaced a couple of suspension parts. No accidents, but the car has some visible scratches on the back, and a broken back seat ashtray/compartment thing (pretty minor but could be pricey to replace). The owner mentioned that there could possibly be some minor further suspension work to be done in a few thousand miles due to crappy roads where I live. Tires are brand new all seasons and in great condition. We are taking it to a mechanic for an inspection in a couple of hours. I already test drove and it feels really really nice, very smooth ride, a little tire noise on the interstate but I read that is common for Subarus.

    He is asking for $7300 which is exactly the TMV price reported on this site, however TMV does not take into account whether the seller is a 1st or 2nd owner. I am wondering whether the fact that the seller is the 2nd owner is legitimate leverage for me to offer substantially less, possibly $6000. If the mechanic does not find any other issues with the car, I will argue that the fact that I would be the 3rd owner means that the resale value for me would be terrible, so I am knocking off $1k for that, and I am going a bit further down because of the scratches and the broken back seat compartment thing, also (and I won't mention this specifically) the fact that he is selling it less than a year after buying it is a potential risk factor I need to take into account.

    Do you think this would be a reasonable offer? I would be willing to pay up to $6500 perhaps if he doesn't seem willing to go that low, but I don't really want my initial offer to be over $6000 because of the issues I mentioned. 100k miles is also quite high but that is already taken into account in the TMV.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I agree with the red flag about him selling less than a year after buying (why?).

    This is also a red flag:

    possibly be some minor further suspension work to be done in a few thousand miles due to crappy roads

    Sounds like he knows something's coming.
  • astarothastaroth Member Posts: 6
    Hi, thanks for replying. I asked him straight up about selling so soon and he said that he wants to upgrade and get a much nicer car (he mentioned BMW). I don't know really, maybe he just got a promotion or feels that the Legacy isn't quite the performance car he expected, he seemed like a car enthusiast. Another possibility is that he wants to sell it because the drivetrain warranty expires after 5 years/100k miles. I don't really have a problem with getting a car without warranty, I consider that pretty much a given, but maybe he just prefers to have it. I am not sure whether it is a red flag and I will ask the mechanic's advice on this.

    The suspension thing doesn't really worry me in the sense that he was honest about it, if it was something dangerous my guess is he would have kept quiet. He is right that the roads here are terrible and really take a toll on the suspension, and at 100k miles it doesn't really surprise me that it might need work (and he has already done the most expensive part of the work apparently). In any case the mechanic will be able to put a price on this and whatever it is, I will subtract it out of the asking price of course.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Cool. You're doing the right thing in getting a mechanic to inspect it so best of luck and keep us posted. :shades:
  • astarothastaroth Member Posts: 6
    Well, taking it to the mechanic was the best idea ever. The mechanic identified a whole range of problems, including brake pads that need to be replaced immediately, that the timing belt had not been done and would be due very soon, lots of leaky and worn bits everywhere, generally the car would need about $3-4k of work done in the very near future. Not buying.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Money well spent. Very well spent.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I was wondering if anyone had replaced their drivers seat with a custom one or possible have an upholstry place redo the seat bottom to add more cushion?
  • taoschieftaoschief Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 outback 148k just started getting engine vibration when placing load ie most noticed just starting out also felt in idle on top of engine but faint if in gear holding brakes and push gas also feel vibration new plugs spark wires front axles just got warranty cats both sides any suggestions no check engine light or codes
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Please clarify - you recently had work performed on the vehicle? If so, what was done?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • taoschieftaoschief Member Posts: 2
    yes trans service new axles front vibration present in park or neutral but mor pronounced in gear fwd of revn with motor under load starting out or holding brake and rev engine smoothes out at speed but still there at speed much like at idle in p or n
  • dougb10dougb10 Member Posts: 185
    Need some advice here folks....have a 2005 Outback Limited automatic 2.5. We are the original owners...car is like new with only 40,000 km.(25,000 miles).
    We are looking at a tent trailer....weight 1200 lbs. empty..with trailer brakes. According to the owner's manual, it can handle the trailer OK.
    I know it will be a slug, but trading this car in on something more powerful is a killer.
    Is the dealer-installed Subaru frame hitch the way to go? Do I need a special transmission cooler?
    Any experienced trailer folks out there with some advice would be greatly appreciated. The trailer we would get is an Aliner Sport.

    Many thanks,

    Doug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You should be fine, you're well within the limits plus the trailer does have the required brakes.

    I towed a 700 lb trailer, plus a couple of beds and a couch, with my 98 Forester, and it did fine. I didn't even have trailer brakes. Stopping distances were longer, of course, so I left plenty of space. The engine and clutch did just fine.

    You have more power and a more substantial tow vehicle, so I can't imagine it'll be a problem.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I agree. With an automatic transmission, I will always recommend a supplemental transmission cooler if you are towing substantial distances or frequently, but if you live in the north country, the extra cooler could also result in lower operating temperatures during those cold winter months.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dougb10dougb10 Member Posts: 185
    Hi guys,

    Many thanks for the feedback on towing. Sounds like we would be good to go.

    Doug
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    We have used our Legacy 2.5i 5 speed wagon to drag various things about. Haven't had any issues, but I do make sure the trailer is properly loaded, the tongue weight is correct, and we are within the towing limits of the vehicle.

    We have a "Hidden Hitch" drawbar and a "Hoppy" plug-n-play electrical connector. No splicing or anything, it just plugs in and off you go.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I've had an intermittent rotational rubbing and what sounds like a metal disc going around very fast in a container with the occasional soft squeak it stops the minute I apply the brakes. This is coming from the drivers side front wheel area. It lasts from 1-5 min. at a time. You can hear it when going under 25mph and the sound gets faster as the mph increases. I've had this issue since 10,000 less than a year of ownership and now at 24,500. It always stops when I get to the dealer, which is frustrating. :mad: The tech checked it out 3 times, I thought it might be the wheel bearing and they said it all looked fine. My brakes are good had them checked too.They couldn't diagnose because it didn't make a sound. It's becoming more frequent now. Anyone one else with an 07-09 Legacy having this issue? I've had a wheel bearing go on my 95 Impreza twice but it's been so long that I forgot what it sounds like. I don't feel safe to take it on a long trip and the dealer can't do anything till it hears the noise. I would appreciate any ideas/feedback. Thank you
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    That sounds exactly like a wheel bearing to me.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited May 2010
    It didn't make a sound likely because it's not under load on their lift.

    I say wheel bearing, too. If I'm wrong I'll buy you a beer next time you're in the DC area.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    I'm stuck now because they won't fix anything till they hear a noise. On three occasions I've taken it to the dealer when it was making the noise and it stopped the minute I pulled in and had the service manager test drive it and wouldn't make a sound. They've put it on a lift checked tires w/ stethescope, moved the tires to see if loose and said "all is fine at this time." The manager assures it's safe to drive. I know something is wrong, safe not sure. What would you do if it were your car? I was told that even though I might think it's a wheel bearing that they won't replace it because what if it doesn't fix the problem. The car is under warranty. They need to hear the issue in order to make a diagnosis. Until then, I'm up a creek without a paddle. The noise is driving me nuts because it's infrequent and feel unsure of it's safety. I'd call SOA if I thought that might help. I think they would just back up the dealer, can't fix what you don't hear to diagnose. I'm irritated that my new car has this issue that is still not taken car of. Again, I really appreciate any ideas. Thanks for the reply
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Murphy's Law. It's the plumbing leak that won't leak when the plumber comes, so they can't trace it. Bummer.

    Dealers says it's OK, so I guess wait and see if it gets worse.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited May 2010
    To address the safety concern, wheel bearings tend to be a wear item that gets progressively worse until the unit eventually disintegrates. It is best to replace them as soon as possible after they begin to make noise, though, because the additional heat generated by the dysfunctional bearing unit will transfer to the wheel spindle and can cause it damage if it heats up sufficiently. If damaged, the spindle would have to be replaced in order to fit the new bearing.

    Worst case: The bearing disintegrates, you hear a horrid grinding noise, and end up stranded somewhere with a three-legged car. ;) Other than the stranding and emotional distress, it should not be a safety issue.

    Your bearing sounds like it has quite a ways to go before it reaches that point. I would just keep an ear on it and take it to the dealer again when it becomes more consistent.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Plus you get the satisfaction of telling the dealer "I told you so". ;)
  • rthompson9310rthompson9310 Member Posts: 17
    Hello- looking at outbacks to replace a totalled car- a couple of things need words of wisdom on
    Carfax- is lack on maintenance records on carfax meaninful or not? obviously if someone changes oil themselves not going to show up in carfax
    Edmunds TMV vs KBB- KBB seems to be a good bit higher for same car- seems to be what dealers use- how to use TMV- the floor price?
    Looking at 2 vehicles- 06(sold 8/06) OB limited mid 50K miles- clean carfax but no maintenance records on carfax
    other car is 07(sold 11/06) 2.5i premium mid 50K miles- clean car fax- all dealer maint on car fax.
    How to judge these if 1K difference in price. does dealer maint give value over limited options
    Am I engaging in analysis paralysis.....
  • rthompson9310rthompson9310 Member Posts: 17
    Also looking at:
    07 premium with 38K miles
    08 limited with 46K miles- manufacturer car for 20k
    and a couple of 06 limited with around 50 K
    Prices ranging from 18900- 08 limited to 17.5(one of 06 limited and "cherry" 07 premium above
    How to judge these if 1K difference in price. does dealer maint give value over limited options

    Thought on these??
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    For redo seat cushion - you can check the Yellow Page under "auto upholstery" they also service all car dealers, like convert fabric to leather seats, replace damage seat fabric, etc.
  • jimsea1jimsea1 Member Posts: 3
    My car smells like dog poop. The smell is strongest after it has been sitting in the sun for a while. I'll open the windows and turn the fan on. I've determined that the smell is most likely coming from the vents. I've eliminated the mats and carpet after I took the mats out and deodorized the carpets. (besides the smell hits me in the face when I aim the vent at it.) I've installed a new cabin air filter (the old one was missing) and the smell is still there.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks!
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Did you purchase the car new or used? I was going to say mold or if previous owner spilled something and the smell just won't go away. Do you smell it all the time while the fan is going? Since you have determined it's coming from the vents, Moisture can form on the A/C condenser, this moisture can cause mold and mildew smell. There are products that you can spray in the A/C intake that will kill the mold and get rid of the odor. I'd ask the dealer or local parts store if they carry this. Also check the carpets to make sure they aren't wet, indicating a leak and creating mold. I'm just hitting all the possible bases. Also make sure that the water vent tube near the A/C condenser is open. When running A/C you see dripping water on the ground underneath passenger side of car. Hope this helps.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My 93 Miata had a musty smell.

    Try some Lysol - spray it in the air intake in the cowl (if that's where it is).

    Put the interior fan on High, fresh air mode. Then spray in Lysol so that the vents suck it in and disinfect the vents.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The AC evaperator (under the dash) Has a tendency to build up mold/milew if you do not turn off the AC and allow it to dry before shutting off engine. (Leaving the AC on all the time is ASKING for mold/mildew to grow)

    There are some commercial concoctions that you can "fog" into the intake of the venting system which are intended to kill the mold/mildew.

    It is also possible, if the mold/mildew has been allowed to grow for too long, that the drain hose for the evaperator may be plugged up. This would have to be 'manually' cleaned out by hand by running a brush or something thru the hose.
  • jimsea1jimsea1 Member Posts: 3
    I'm the original owner on this car. The carpets are dry. I'm going to try the spray for the AC intake as soon as I find it. Where would the water vent tube be? Under the right side of the car?
  • jimsea1jimsea1 Member Posts: 3
    The smell seems to be weaker when the AC is on. Could a clogged drain hose still be the issue? Where would that be? Under the right side of the car?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That could be because the air is less humid, so the smell is less noticeable.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "intake" for the airflow is OUTSIDE the vehicle at the bottom of the windshield (Look for the 'vents' under the wipers at the back of the hood.)

    If you turn on the "recirculate" button, then the intake is INSIDE the car... listen for the sucking sound under the dash near the gas pedal.
  • ronsteveronsteve Member Posts: 1,190
    Specifically thinking about the '05-'09 Outback and '05-'07 Legacy wagons and folding down the rear seats... Did they ever get to the point where you could fold them down and have a relatively flat floor, or is the bottom cushion still in the way?

    Seems like the new generation (more SUV, less wagon) can do that, but sadly the turbo and manual tranny are gone. :(
    2015 Acura RDX AWD / 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited February 2011
    I had both an '07 and '08, and no, they did not "fold flat" (at least not when they were initially dropped). When something with any weight was placed on top, they would flatten out, but the heavy bolstering in both the back and seat cushions prevented that from happening without some weight to compress the foam.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Our 02 Legacy had the back seat base that you could move out of the way, so the seat backs went down farther. That was MY2000-2004 though.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yeah, they did that from '95 through '04, then went to the stationary seat bottoms.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • idearequestidearequest Member Posts: 11
    Hi, The Stereo/climate control panel face plate(86213AG61A) was replaced in April 2009 (under warranty at that time) on my 2005 Outback Sedan because the temperature and radio controls kept flashing. The other day, the temperature and radio controls did not come on a couple of times, but they have since then. Shouldn't that part last longer than this? Any idea of how long it can be expected to last or what might affect that? I'm taking the car in tomorrow, but it's a very expensive part so I thought I'd see if anyone happened to see this question tonight. (I'm hoping it might have a simpler fix, but we are headed into a foggy area next week so I can't take a chance and nothing might show up in testing.) Thanks very much.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Last longer? Yes, I would think so, but then it sounds like it didn't last any longer than this the first time around, either! If it is just an intermittent thing (no regularity to it), my suspicion is that it is a cracked solder point or, perhaps, a poor harness connection.

    If the problem is very widespread, you might even be able to find instructions on how to repair it (DIY).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Mine does it mostly in the cold weather. With the warmer weather, it is fine again. I did take videos of it to show the dealer for my next visit.

    I did read about someone soldering/fixing a connection. I am NOT mechanically inclined, but could tell the dealership what to do. Is it easy to get to?
  • saywhatsaywhat Member Posts: 63
    Anyone know how to disable the warning bell for the front seat belts in the 05 legacy turbo?

    Thanks!
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