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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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Comments

  • tickmantickman Member Posts: 16
    You might want to avoid the OBXT I test drove. I managed to get all four tires to bark while reving the engine all the way up to the rev limiter. Oh, it had 30 miles on it. I think the salesman swallowed his tongue. It wasn't the right color, so I bought a different one.

     

    Hey, the RPMs came up a lot faster than my F-150 truck...


     

    TickMan
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Not sure what the reference is to, but the OB XT is certainly fast enough to get you in trouble on public roads. In fact, in practical everyday driving, it's faster than my WRX was.

     

    Craig
  • 63corvette63corvette Member Posts: 51
    Sorry, no insult intended. I just thought that since we all have different ideas of exactly what qualifies as "scary", that I would provide an interesting baseline for reference. I hope you all enjoyed the ride.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    When I carpool with my wife and she drives while getting energized from her morning coffee, that probably sets the bar for "scary fast" in my life!

     

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Tickman: what was that VIN, just in case I shop used? LOL

     

    No biggie, a rev limiter will kick in if need be.

     

    -juice
  • mchalmersmchalmers Member Posts: 30
    Does anyone have a feel for when/if Subaru may offer cash incentive on the Outbacks? I would buy if I could get the car at $500 under invoice and get some bucks back.

     

    Matthew
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    With our 2.5i 4EAT sedan, we average about 25 MPG in a pretty even mix of city/hwy. And also depends on who drives it- I'm assuming that once I move out of the 'rents house in March, I'll return periodically and the Legacy will post better numbers... I tend to drive harder than my elders... when I can get my hands on the keys.

     

    Also, efficiency seemed to improve after the first servicing, FWIW, and I'm hoping that we'll see another bump at 10,000 miles when the vehicle is TRULY broken in. (Also, differences in fuel oxygenation levels in the winter tend to deflate MPG in New Jersey, in my experience).

     

    :)

     

    ~alpha
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    That's so true, Craig. LOL. Scary doesn't necessarily have to be really fast! I'm sure I'm losing years off my life riding with my wife! ;-)

     

    tom
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Well, you can definitely get the car for invoice, and better in some cases/models (probably not XT though). Check www.fitzmall.com -- they normally have good prices, and sometimes you can use them to talk your local dealer down.

     

    It really depends on how well the cars are selling, and all the indications are that Outbacks are selling well.

     

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Legacy had a record year, so did Subaru.

     

    Forester didn't carry any incentives for several years after its intro, I think they waited 4-5 years. So don't hold your breath.

     

    -juice
  • jeffhooverjeffhoover Member Posts: 2
    With regards to having audio professionals install satellite radio: are you at all worried about either electrical or mechanical interference with all the airbags that are in the OBW now?

     

    My friend and I installed a satellite antenna in my 97 VW Passat - with only 2 airbags, that was a piece of cake. But I'm more nervous that the audio installers could mess something up in my 05 Outback and I'd never know.
  • dt63944dt63944 Member Posts: 66
    I've never had a car where removing the washer fluid was "difficult", including my 3 Forester's, but the dispersion system is very efficient, true.

     

    I live in the Western NY area and use Prestone products - "Bugwash" between late May and late September and "DeIcer" during the other times. "Bugwash" is high in detergent, but will freeze easily because of low or non-existent alcohol level and "DeIcer" won't freeze up suddenly at Interstate speeds - the only one I've had that rarely freezes on contact, even though many cheaper products say they prevent re-freezing. "DeIcer" doesn't have much in the way of detergents, but in the winter, that's not a big concern, unlike summer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I just bought some stuff at WalMart marketing by RainX, the same guys that make the windshield treatments.

     

    They advertise freeze protection up to -25 degrees F. No below freezing, mind you, so that's pretty good protection.

     

    Oddly, it's pink in color. And it's supposed to have a trace of Rain X in it. I use Rain X anyway so let's see if they are more compatible and it lasts longer.

     

    But really what I want is windshield washer fluid that doesn't freeze!

     

    -juice

     

    PS $2 at WalMart, we got 3 gallons and used 1.5 already
  • snowbirdsnowbird Member Posts: 120
    I have noticed that when I am driving on highways at around 65 mph and suddenly ease off the gas pedal (before I brake), the engine seems to stutter a little, as if the gears wanted to downshift. Has anyone noticed this before? It's certainly not a safety issue, (unlike 'hesitation' with some other cars when overtaking), but it's a little strange, because at this speed, why would the engine need to downshift? Would appreciate some insight. Thanks. Mine is just over 7,000 miles and had one dealer's service/oil change. Jason
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I wonder if it's the torque converter unlocking?? On the 5EAT, I think it can lock/unlock in 3,4,5.

     

    What does the tach show when this happens?? Normally, you'd see a very slight decrease in RPM when it locks and a slight increase when it unlocks.

     

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My guess is the throttle-by-wire is closing the throttle completely to save gas.

     

    -juice
  • snowbirdsnowbird Member Posts: 120
    Thanks, Craig and Juice... I guess whatever it was, it's not hurting the car (That was my main concern). Other than that, the car drives beautifully. Jason
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I use the RainX washer fluid in my car. It works great - never freezes, and the rain just beads right off - no need to use RainX separately.
  • rwoodsrwoods Member Posts: 129
    My wife and I have no complaints with either turbo lag or the auto climate control. She has an Audi A4 3.0 which has a horrible auto climate control so the Subie appears great in comparison. And the Subie is vastly more responsive and powerful than the Audi A4. The Audi does have better brakes however. Actually both cars are fine and we plan to keep them for a long time. I do worry about the long term reliability of the German car but hope that by treating it with kid gloves it will behave. I don't harbor such fears with the Subie. It doesn't seem as finicky.

     

    Bob
  • rwoodsrwoods Member Posts: 129
    I just purchased two bottles of concentrated anti freeze washer fluid (about 16 oz. each) to add to my windshield washer system on the advice of someone on this site. It has not got below freezing since I installed it so I've got nothing to report. Hopefully there will be no more problems.

     

    Bob
  • occkingoccking Member Posts: 346
    Just turning six weeks, 4500 miles in 2.5I LT. I notice on the highway, while in cruise control, whenever going downhill there is a constant, but subtle "jerking" motion back & forth oike the keeps accelerating than backing off every second or so. Have no problems on level ground or uphill, only downhill. Any comment from others? Got a good chance to check mileage today. Mostly highway trip computer had 27.6, actual mileage (filled to brim both times) was 26.7. Hopefully will continue to improve as car gets broken in & weather gets warmer.
  • twrxtwrx Member Posts: 647
    I too have a 2.5i LTD. I have 6000 miles and I have exactly the same thing going on with the cruise and downhill. It gets on and off throttle. I suspect they have a problem here. maybe a reprogram of the FI computer needed? My mileage is just about the same down to the 1 mpg high for the computer vs. real calculations I do at the pump. Thus far at 6000 I have not yet done better. Hope it does get 30 someday.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    I havent noticed the downhill surging with cruise on our NA 4EAT Legacy (though I have not looked for it either), but one thing I do notice with this vehicle's cruise that I've NEVER noticed with any other cruise control is that it is impossible to use the steering wheel toggle switch to accelerate the vehicle a few MPH without prompting a downshift.

     

    Its really frustrating- flick the switch up for half a second, and BAM! you've kicked down a gear!?! For what? All I want is a slightly higher pace, not a 100% effort. This doesnt happen only on upgrades or with a heavier load, or anything like that. It happens all the time.

     

    Is this typical of Subaru Cruise Control? Or is our Legacy just special?

     

    Also, does anyone know the stats on how breakdown of OBs sold, by engine? I'm interested to know what % of wagons use the NA 4 cyl as opposed to the Turbo or H6. (Thanks in advance).

     

    ~alpha
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    Actually, it's pretty common for cruise controls to downshift when you hit the ACCEL button.

     

    What I do to avoid that if I just want to accelerate briefly or increase speed a little, I use the gas pedal. ;-) It doesn't reset the cruise, and when you accelerate to the new speed you want to be at, hit the SET button. Nice, smooth, no downshifts, no one notices.

     

    tom
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If you want to go up/down a couple mph, just tap the button -- approximately one tap for every mph. It won't downshift if you increase speed that way, and you get more control.

     

    Craig
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Oh, I've tried this... if I tap..literally a quick flick.. for just a hair too long, I can completely confuse the tranny without having meant to. My pops was the first one to notice it actually, and mentioned it to me.

     

    And tsy- yes, I am aware that using the ACCEL button will prompt a downshift in most cars... my experience is that you need to hold it for a few seconds to get a downshift...

     

    Not a big deal, and naturally, one can use the go pedal to regulate, it just struck me as a bit overly agressive.

     

    ~alpha
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yeah, you don't have to hold it very long for the downshift to occur, but I find that I get about 1/2 mph per tap. Unfortunately, on mine, it is somewhat variable (sometimes I get no noticable difference, sometimes a full mph), so I usually just cancel the cruise and reset - especially when I want to drop a bit of speed because "coast" hates to cooperate. It usually will dump the speed for a few seconds, then slowly climb back up to the previous setting.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good to hear that, Sam.

     

    I'll put a fresh coat of Rain X on the side windows, though. ;-)

     

    -juice
  • gvanmoorgvanmoor Member Posts: 7
    My 2.5i (5-speed manual) shows exactly the same behavior on cruise control going downhill. Haven't reported this to the dealer yet but will when the next service is due.
  • 63corvette63corvette Member Posts: 51
    I'd like to interrupt for a minute to discuss tires again. I mentioned that when I got my Goodyear TripleTred tires, there was a rebate on them. Well it took me more than 2 months, but I finally got my check for $50.00 last night. That brings my total cost to $105X4=$420-50=$370 delivered to my door, or $92.50/tire. I like the tires, but if they last 80,000 miles like they are supposed to it will be one helluva deal:-)
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    do you, 63corvette, think it would take you to accumulate 80000 miles ?

     

    Krzys
  • 63corvette63corvette Member Posts: 51
    At the current rate I've been accumulating miles it would take 42 months or 3.55 years.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    afraid to wait 6 years (15000 miles/year), assuming that there would still be enough tread left, to change tires. But in your case, 3 and half years is quite fast and rubber deterioration should not be a problem.

    Krzys
  • fj60fj60 Member Posts: 28
    Thinking about replacing my RE 92s with Toyo Proxes 4s. The Toyo dealer offered a credit of $25 for each RE 92. Actually, I've never had a scary moment with the Potenzas, but there's so much negative feedback about their lack of wet traction, I thought I'd play it safe and replace them. Is it just hype?

    FJ60
    '05 GT LMT Wagon 5MT
  • sdufordsduford Member Posts: 577
    Go ahead and take that deal, you'll be safer for it. Your RE-92s are going to get much worse by the time they are at half-thread depth, which doesn't take long.

    Sly
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    I swapped them out. The best thing I've done for my car (and my sense of well being) If you've never pushed the RE-92a's to the limits- consider yourself lucky. It's not very far until they start losing grip. Now, it's very controllable, so that's good. What's not good is when you can't stop in time!

    I would say the wet grip on my Proxes 4s is marginally less than the DRY grip of the RE-92a's. They offer much more grip, better handling and control, shorter stopping distances, they are lighter, and a little quiter ride.

    The down side? I don't know how long the tread will last. I also don't know how the tire will wear over time. The rim protection strip is not as 'beefy'. That's about it.

    Otherwise I am very happy with them, and they were worth every penny.

    tom
  • fj60fj60 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for the advice, Sly and tom. Almost went for the Proxes T1-S for no better reason than the look of the treads. Ultimately got the Proxes 4s for the all-weather capability. Les Schwab Tire threw in a pair of free steaks, too. I'm sure the meat is not of the highest quality, but I hope they're at least less rubbery than the tires they sell. :)
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Re: msg #6500

    Had the same problem on my '98 OBW. Moved the front bar as far forward as possible. Placed the box so that the rear spoiler on the hatch had about 1" clearance with the box. Drilled new holes in the box for the hold-downs. The box rides just great - with or without skis. Have had it up to 80+ mph without problems.
  • tmontytmonty Member Posts: 16
    Hi Guys,

    Need some advice. I'll probably be purchasing a Legacy Wagon 2.5i or a base Outback Wagon in the next few months. My wife prefers the Outback and I prefer the Legacy. So we'll probably compromise and get the Outback =) We do some camping/Skiing/biking/etc and a Thule box is a common fixture atop our current vehicle... so the Outback would probably be a better fit. However, I'm a little concerned with the motorized seat adjustments for the driver side. I'm ~6' and my wife is ~5'4" so every time either one of us will get into the car, the seat will need to be adjusted (front/back, up/down, and backrest rake). I've never had motorized seat adjustments... preferring the mechanical, spring-loaded controls for reliability reasons. Does anybody have any info regarding past reliability issues on these electrical motors? If history is any indication, I will likely keep the vehicle for 10 years or so. I want to make sure that I'm not replacing one (or more) of these motors every couple of years. If there have been issues in the past, I may just bite the bullet and go for the more "urbanite" Legacy Wagon with the mechanical adjustments.

    Tom
  • dcabdcab Member Posts: 101
    Having driven my 1997 Outback for eight years and now thinking about my next vehicle, I was under the impression that the Outback had gotten considerably roomier in that time. In comparing a 2005 Outback to my 1997, I see that it is a longer, wider vehicle and yet the interior dimensions are little changed, and in some cases smaller.

    Specifically:

    1. the 05 is 188.7 inches long with a 105.1 inch wheelbase compared to 185.8 and 103.5 on the 97 and yet front legroom is only up .8 from 43.3 to 44.1 and rear legroom is DOWN from 34.8 to 33.9 (the Forester's rear legroom is listed at 33.7!).

    2. cargo capacity is listed at 36.5 cu. ft. with the seat up and 73.6 with the seat down on the 97 and only 33.5 and 66.2 on the 05 (without moonroof).

    3. the 05 is over 2 inches wider (67.5 to 69.7)and yet shoulder room barely increases: up to 54.4 inches in the front and 53.7 in the back on the 05 compared to 54.1/53.6 on my 97.

    4. the 05 has a height of 63.2 compared to the 97's 63.0. Headroom (w/o moonroof) is up .3 of an inch (40.2 to 40.5)in the front, but is down .1 in the rear seat (39.2 to 39.1).

    Am I missing something? Where did the extra inches go? Perhaps cars are measured differently today than eight years ago?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    I don't know about the other dimensions, but the increase in width likely got eaten up by side-impact structure. The 05 model has very thick doors and much better side-impact protection than the 97.

    Craig
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    There are people complaining about US bumpers, compared to JDM or European models. I wonder what is the real length increase, not counting extended US bumpers.
    I think I will search the web ;-)

    Krzys

    PS OK Euro Legacy is 4665mm long (183.7 in) and 1730mm wide (68.1 in).

    Now Outback is:
    Length 4730mm 186.2 in
    Width 1770mm 69.7 in
  • kmcleankmclean Member Posts: 173
    Hi, Tom,

    I have a 2K OB Ltd wagon with the electric motors on the driver's seat, and with four drivers of differing heights/leg lengths (wife and two daughters) they've had a real work-out with no problems. I've had other cars (some with power seats on both sides) and have never had a problem. I'd say go for it (too bad they don't have memory seats - that's a must for my next car)!

    Cheers from (unbelievably sunny) Seattle,

    Ken M.
  • tmontytmonty Member Posts: 16
    Thanks Ken - I appreciate the feedback. Just the same... I don't understand why they can't leave good enough alone. I don't see the value of motorizing the seat adjustments. Do you? Oh well, as long as it doesn't break...

    Cheers from snowy Ottawa,

    Tom
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Well, if they DID have memory, then I can see the value in the motorized adjustments. Otherwise, it is just there to feel fancy and teach us drivers how to be patient... ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne.....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tmontytmonty Member Posts: 16
    Exactly. Making things complicated for no other reason than to justify a higher 'luxury' price tag. =(
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Otherwise, it is just there to feel fancy and teach us drivers how to be patient... ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne.....

    image
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I like manual seat adjustments because you can move them all the way back quickly. Power seats are slow.

    My wife likes them, however.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Manual seats are definetly great for large and frequent adjustments.

    However, after having driven in my 05 LGT, I am appreciating the ability to make small adjustments with the power seats on-the-fly. With manual adjustments, the increments not only tend to be bigger, but they can be hard to zero in on.

    Like ACC, power seats usually make life easier for most people, most of the time.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Oh, I would not object to having them. I'd just rather not pay extra.

    -juice
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