Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

xwesx · January 2007

I feel much the same way - I am 6'0" w/ 33" inseam and after the first 1000 miles of our original trip back up to Alaska, I finally decided that fully repositioning the seat each time my wife drove was just too much. I told her to put it exactly how she preferred, then I sat in it. Felt pretty good. I go to drive cars that belong to friends who are 6-10" shorter and I can barely reach the pedals.... ? They seem to find it comfortable though.

I felt comfy enough throughout the crash this weekend too. Hardly even felt like I wiggled until I unclipped the belt and smacked my head into the ceiling!

But, considering the hideous, 3" diameter bruise on the outside of my right thigh, I'd say the seats are too wide, as that is where I must have crashed into the belt latch.

Unfortunately, I will be test driving some '07s tomorrow morning. I can reassess then, but no Limited as I just found out my wife really does not like leather seats.

I'm just the opposite, but give and take.

gsy · January 2007

Please advise. I got contradicting information from the salesman and from other subaru staff & the owner's manual. :confuse:

It's about the standard 'antitheft security system' that comes with the 2006 model.
In the specs, it simply says: "Antitheft security system with answer-back electronic chirp".
So, what exactly does it include? Does it has the basic alarm feature if somebody tries to break in?

I was assured by the salesman: "2006 only has the remote entry system (locking and unlocking with chirping sound) and a red light blinking on the dashboard. No alarm _at all_." :surprise: That sounds like an intelligent anti-theft system.

However, another staff at the store, as well as in the manual has something like this:
"if you have locked the door and if somebody tries to break in(eg. smashing the window/I forget to roll up the window) to open the door from within, that will trigger the alarm."

And according to the manual, only shock sensor is optional.

An 'upgraded' security system costs >$200, wonder what does this cover?

Thanks for the help!!

jeffmc · January 2007

This might help a little.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#2006%20tribeca

smittynyc · January 2007

That's funny -- my wife and I arrived at a mutually satisfactory single seating position as well (it helps that she's pretty tall). That reduced the whole prepare-to-drive sequence down to just adjusting the driver's side and rear-view mirror. For some reason, the passenger's side outer mirror position worked well for both of us.

However, our new Legacy has a power driver's seat, so she's been cheating and moving it up a skosh when she drives. Since it's a power seat, I really don't care.

(Although I like simple cars with basic features, I have to admit that memory seats/mirrors would be pretty nice.)

My condolences again on the demise of your old car. But I think you'll be very pleasantly surprised with the quality of the cloth in the 07. The 2.5i has heated front seats, power driver's seat, and the heated side mirrors/wipers. $750 cash back incentive is back for January, too.

paisan · January 2007

Impreza security setups. We have a proven track record in protecting them. 250 installs, 50 attempted thefts, 1 Theft but they never got past the security, they actually pushed the car with another car 10 miles...

-mike

pathtomax · January 2007

I cheated on my 2001 Outback Limited (107k miles) and test drove a 2006 Outback LL Bean Sedan with 32k miles. I sat in the drivers seat, looked at the new controls, the Nav system and looked at my partner and said, "This is a grown-ups Subaru!" It was a beautiful Garnet Red and drove beautifully. My issue- it was a sedan. I really want another wagon for the camping, biking trips etc.

Did they make the LL Bean Wagon in Garnet Red? I seem to find that they actually discontinued this color for 2007? I might just give up XM options for the color! I have the short-lived Winestone in my 2001 now.

xwesx · January 2007

We are going to try to negotiate a local deal today (tough getting a decent price in such an isolated market) on an 07, but likely we will get the Basic vs. "normal?" Outback. I will be happy not to have the TMPS and the power seat. I like the seat cushion tilt option on the power seat, but in all other ways prefer the manual adjustments. We are also going for a manual transmission - I thought my wife would shy away from it once she tried it (has little experience with manuals), but she took to it like a fly on... well, she did great and loved it.

So, more news later. I will hate not having heated mirrors if we end up negotiating a deal. Whomever at Subaru that decided on deleting those versus, say, lighted vanity mirrors (the most pointless feature in existence), was a complete fool and had no customer service experience. :mad:

Considering the essentials deleted on the Basic (such as crossbars on roof rails) that we will have to purchase anyway, the difference comes out to about $1000 more (at invoice) for the standard 2.5i. I asked my wife and she said that the heated mirrors were not worth that much to her.

snowbelter · January 2007

By taking the Basic do you realize you are giving up heated seats (useful) and the heated wiper strip on the windshield (sometimes useful)? You aren't just giving up the heated mirrors.

c_hunter · January 2007

The basic is fine if you want a no frills vehicle on a budget, but if the difference is only $1K I would go for the standard 2.5i myself. I like the cold weather package features (especially if I lived in AK) and some of the other standard equipment on the 2.5i.

Craig

xwesx · January 2007

Yes, we realize everything we would be giving up (some of which I am quite glad to give up!). Like I said, the heated mirrors are the only ones of real concern as many items, like crossbars (essential to giving the vehicle the versatility I demand) and splash guards, are easily and cheaply addable. As far as heated seats... eh. Our '96 had them. I used to use them when the car was cold, but have always found them uncomfortable and unnecessary. So, I am neutral about that one. The wiper strip might be somewhat helpful, but that would be my first vehicle to include it and I have always done fine without it! Here, it is typically so cold during winter months that things like rear window defrosters actually cause more ice build up than they prevent. The best thing to do is leave the defroster off and scrape the window. Then the wiper can remove any snow that builds up while driving. If the defroster is on, you end up with "ice strips" because the snow will melt, then refreeze on the glass between the strips of heating element. So, I am unconvinced that we need them.

And I agree, Craig, that the price really is not all that much different... but we are also trying to build a house as well and every dollar we commit to this car is two that we do not have available to invest in the house. The word "budget" really hits the nail on the head - I am trying to work this thing out so that we are not holding our heads under water for the next 4-5 years. I can do 30 seconds, but after that I like to come up for air.

We have not ruled the 2.5i out, but we are preferentially seeking the Basic.

xwesx · January 2007

*sigh*

Well, considering that I was forced to do this search/negotiation under, perhaps, the worst possible conditions (aside from the fact that it is -30F today!), I think I did okay. The market up here is limited, with only two dealerships in the state. The Fairbanks dealership, after confirming that they would not seek a manual Basic from Anchorage and that there was not one en-route to Fairbanks, gave us a price of $23611 (OTD) for a manual 2.5i... which is a whopping $600 off MSRP. I contacted Anchorage regarding a manual Basic and managed to get them to 22125 (pre-incentive, title, fees) with crossbars, floormats, and mudguards (color coded) but with none installed... so, $378 over invoice (TMV for zip 99501 is listed on Edmunds as $22,533). OTD price was $21706. I made a calculation error when I was figuring the accessories, as I "wanted" to hit ~$250 over invoice. Basically, they flat refused to drop the sale price below $21706 so I decided to add the accessories I would be putting on it anyway in order to come closer to the price I sought. So, with the cost of flying to Anchorage and driving it back, the total cost to get it home is ~$22,000.

I went ahead and called the local dealership and told them I would accept the manual 2.5i at $22,500. I figured saving a day trip to Anchorage and getting the heated mirrors was worth $500. This is ~$250 over invoice. The salesperson with whom we had worked previously just flat refused. She said, "the computer says we'd be losing about $1000 if I sold it for that price." I just said I was giving her an opportunity to make the sale because I had already worked out a $250 over invoice deal in Anchorage on the Basic (at the time, I thought I had.... did not catch that accounting error until just a few minutes ago - GRR!) but was willing to do the same deal here in order to save the trip even though we were paying more overall than we cared to pay. It was still in our "doable" range, even if just barely. She offered to work up a counter-offer, but I said no, this was a yes-or-no offer and it was not worth negotiating it up since I'd already had a deal worked out on the preferred car.

All in all though, considering the circumstances and market, I feel okay with it. If it had been a situation where I could have piggy-backed the trip down and had time to drive it back up I would have looked more seriously at the L48. "Feeler" prices I was getting from Washington were not enough less than the price I negotiated to justify the lost income and the time it would take to do it.

There will be other opportunities. But, I have not actually paid for nor picked up the car, so if someone has a compelling reason to talk me out of it - speak up! :P

xwesx · January 2007

I will go ahead and duplicate relevant text there, so if you want to adjust it, Bob... please do!

jeffmc · January 2007

Wes - sent you an e-mail. Below invoice for OB.

xwesx · January 2007

Thank you so much, Jeff. Was offered a great price on a manual Basic ($20190.50 OTD), but after factoring in travel cost, time, and winterizing, the savings dwindled to ~$200.

jeffmc · January 2007

You're supposed to call it "vacation", not "travel cost, time". :P Well, I thought it'd be at least worth it for you to check it out what kind of price you could get. I'm always surprised how good the offers are.

ncc4 · January 2007

I recently purchased a 2007 Outback Touring Edition (Canada)and I'm looking for help on how to replace the heating system filter. I know it's not due for several thousand kilometers, but would like to have a look. My dealership said that they charge 1 hour's labor ( $105 ) for this plus the filter. The link through message 9541 to help me install the armrest extension was excellent with info. and photo's. Anyone replaced this filter that can give me similar type of instructions?

Thanks in advance

Nigel

dbt · January 2007

On the Subaru home page. Don't look too different to me.
on VDC: "available" [not "standard"]
Tilt-telescoping steering wheel: seems to be standard
Also, TPMS

c_hunter · January 2007

We're discussing it in the Subaru Crew Future Models thread -- I suggest sending discussion that way...

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ee9956a/18579

once_for_all · January 2007

assuming the OB is similar to my Forester, you would unscrew the glove box (about 8 philips screws) and the filter door is right there.

Takes about 30 mins, faster if you have an electric screw driver.

Detailed instructions are normally in the OEM filter box.

John

skatemom · January 2007

I am moving to the Denver area...am considering a 2007 Outback
3.0 Eddie Bauer or 2.5 Turbo .
I will commute up and down the Front Range on I-70 from Evergreen to Denver, and I would like enough power to stay at 65-70 without laboring(as my 6cyl Explorer is prone to !!)
What are advantages/disadvantages of turbo vs 3.0 (aside from premium gas!)
Is this car as good as it sounds in the snow? I will be new to winter driving....
Thx

paisan · January 2007

I'd stick with the forced induction in the Mts. From what I hear they are less effected by the higher altitude than an NA motor.

-mike

c_hunter · January 2007

I have an 05 Outback XT (2.5 turbo) and previously had an LL Bean (3.0 H6). They are both awesome in the snow. The turbo is a little faster and sporty, while the LL Bean is smoother and more refined. Both are very powerful. The turbo may be better for mountain driving, as turbo engines are not as prone to the power loss you get at high elevations. At the elevations you're talking about, that is a worthwhile consideration. My advice would be to test drive both and see what you like better. Good luck!

Craig

garandman · January 2007

What are advantages/disadvantages of turbo vs 3.0 (aside from premium gas!)
Is this car as good as it sounds in the snow? I will be new to winter driving....
At your elevation the turbo will be an advantage and with the SI drive the mpg will be OK. Disadvantage is you must run premium, and resale value is a little lower. The H6 is very smooth and refined and is a lot more sprightly with the H6 than your Explorer. It runs happily on mid-grade fuel or good Regular; is smoother; and is easier to sell. But the actual power output is 10-15% less than the turbo despite their similar ratings.

Subarus are very good in snow, with appropriate tires.

mike1944 · January 2007

i've been driving the turbo since july and response due to turbo lag, may not suit you. also my mpg, locally has varied from 15mpg to 20mpg, and 25mpg highway.

all in all the car is great , my only complaint is the use of premium fuel,the mpg it gets, and the lack of stability control even as an option. traction and stability control can be had on the suzuki sx4, why subaru doesn't make it available is a mystery. especially when the institute of highway safety only recommends the legacy with stability control. you can only get this safety feature as part of a $2500 navigation package on the gt, it may be a different story on the h6.

c_hunter · January 2007

The 2007 Outback XT and LL Bean models come standard with VDC traction/stability control. And I believe the prices are the same or less than the 2006 models, so the value is even better.

ic_designer · January 2007

Someone in this forum has posted the link to "How to replace the cabin air filter" a while back, and I happen to bookmark it.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/airfiltration.html

Alland

dudleyf · January 2007

Greetings,

I recently added a fully-loaded 2007 Outback LL Bean to my garage, my first Subaru. So far I love the car, and over the weekend did the first manufacturer's-recommended oil change (3k miles). It went fairly smoothly for a first one, but I have a few basic questions to all the Subie owners out there.

1.) Does anybody know any good Subaru dealers that sell online that have good prices and service? I've used Courtesy Nissan for my Maxima for years, and they sell online cheaper than any local dealers.

I prefer OEM parts, especially since it's about the only way to get wiper refills anymore (the general parts stores want you to buy a whole new blade every time).

2.) The oil change went fairly smoothly, but I notice the hole in the plastic guarding over the drain plug is of a sufficient size that the oil comes right through on the initial "gush," but as it becomes more of a trickle and surface tension causes the oil to start "sticking" to the bottoms of the pan for an inch or so back before releasing it no longer clears the intended hole and ends up pooling on top of the shielding and dripping out of several holes simultaneously. I let it continue like this and then tried to wipe above as best I can by stuffing my arm up through the filter opening, but wonder it anybody has come across a better solution to keeping the dribble in the pan.

Otherwise it was a straightforward operation, although I was surprised it took 7(!) quarts to fill it back up. That contradicts the manual which states 5.8, but I added a full 7 before the dipstick was just below the FULL mark!

Anybody else see this as well?

nickel · January 2007

From Nina Padgett (Chicago Sun Times, April 7, 2003): Turbocharging improves vehicle performance in high-altitude states such as Colorado and Utah, which traditionally have been strong markets for Subaru. In cities such as Denver and Fort Collins, Colo., the power loss from altitude is about 10 percent. The power loss in mountainous areas surrounding these cities can be up to 25 percent. Turbocharging compensates the loss of oxygen at altitude by improving air flow through the engine. Turbochargers also enhance fuel economy and reduce emissions.

The math is clear, go turbo.

scouzi · January 2007

Seems they have no news for the B9 however.

http://prn.newscom.com/cgi-bin/pub/s?f=PRN/prnpub&p1=20070107/CLSU008-a&xtag=PRN- -prnphotos-58978&redir=preview&tr=1&row=1

xwesx · January 2007

:surprise: I recommend that you drain some of that oil back out. If it states 5.8 quarts, then when you do an oil change only put 5 quarts back in (with some of that poured directly into the new oil filter before mounting it if it bottom-mounts as on the H4). Run the engine a while to let it redistribute, then let it fully settle before checking the dipstick. You can fine tune it from there. The H4 is highly sensitive to being overfilled and I suspect the H6 might be as well, so overfilling could lead to premature seal/gasket failure.

xwesx · January 2007

You're supposed to call it "vacation", not "travel cost, time". Well, I thought it'd be at least worth it for you to check it out what kind of price you could get. I'm always surprised how good the offers are.

Hahah I know, Jeff, but, considering the circumstances, I really did not have time or patience for a "vacation." You have to remember that I did not even want to be doing this - it makes a bad start to a long drive. The folks at the dealership yesterday said, "Congratulations on your new car!" I just said, "Yeah, well, I appreciate the sentiments, at least." :mad:

ncc4 · January 2007

Thanks very much for the link..........looks like it's reasonable job on a Saturday morning!

Nigel

zman3 · January 2007

1) I use firstsubaruparts.com and have been happy with them.

2) I bought a Fumoto drain valve for that exact reason. No more wiping up afterwards.

I would also drain out some of the oil. I trust Subaru to know how much to put in. I have never had my 06 3.0 read full on the dipstick after doing this however. It always reads low. It reads a little bit higher if you let it sit overnight, but it still never reads Full.

Karl

c_hunter · January 2007

Let's not give dudleyf a heart attack already! He's probably OK if, after the engine has run and then allowed to cool back down (so the oil settles), it's not over the full mark. If it is, then drain a little out.

Normally when I do an oil change, I pre-fill the filter with oil when possible, then add the manufacturer's recommended amount to the engine. Run the engine, let it cool off, then check the level a few hours later and top off as needed. That way you never worry about over-filling.

By the way, does the manual state 5.8 for engine oil only, or does that include the typical extra 0.5-1 quart for the filter? Because if it's 5.8 for the engine only, I can see how engine+filter would be 6.5-6.8 gals (which seems like a lot for a 3.0L engine....)

Craig

xwesx · January 2007

I can see how engine+filter would be 6.5-6.8 gals (which seems like a lot for a 3.0L engine....)

Seems like a lot? Craig.... that would be a lot for a D12 Cat! :P

You're right about Dudley. Sorry there.... no intent to cause heart problems!

ic_designer · January 2007

My 02 3.0L LL Bean calls for 6 quarts, and it comes to full mark when I measure at level ground with 6 quarts of oil.

Here is how I have done partially draining out the ATF fluid when I over fill it. I bought a clear 1/4 inch flexible plastic pipe from Home Depot (I think it is in plumbing section), and a syringe which is used in mixing two strokes oil from Pep Boys. I insert the flexible pipe through the ATF dip stick, attach the pipe to the syringe and suck it out with the syringe until it is at correct level. It works quite well for me. So, you can try the same technique through the oil dip stick. Make sure that the engine is cool, otherwise you might melt the pipe. The easiest way will be to drain it all out, and refill with the correct amount unless you have already installed a special drain plug which you can drain out partially.

Alland

xwesx · January 2007

That is a great idea for the ATF, but I doubt it will work the same on the engine as the filler goes into the overhead cam area, and there should not be standing oil (at least not much) in that section of the engine when it is off. You will not be able to snake a hose all the way into the pan from there. Though a little messy, another way to get only some oil out is to loosen the screw on the pan, and then, holding it, unthread it all the way until it is just pressed up against the pan. Then, tip it up to release oil slowly until the desired (or estimated) amount is released, then tip it back into place to stifle the flow and re-thread/tighten it. The key is to keep the flow slow (and do it while engine cold) so you can keep control of it. Have a shop towel handy to wipe off your hand/arm afterward!

jeffmc · January 2007

Congrats on the new Bean! Another cheap and reputable online seller is allsubaru.com, which is affiliated with one of the largest Subaru dealerships.

xwesx · January 2007

Eh.

Not thrilled, but much of that probably the circumstances leading up to the purchase. I drove it back up from Anchorage yesterday.

Starting with 8 miles on the ticker:

1. Discovered it had no block heater installed (was told prior to agreeing on the purchase price that it DID have a block heater w/ adjusted coolant). That is particularly annoying to me since, more than the extra $70 it costs to buy the parts and coolant, I will be lying on pack ice tonight installing it at -30F. :mad:

2. The seats are absolutely wonderful! They "feel" firm, but once seated are like Isotoner gloves. 6-hour drive home last night (360 miles) and I have never taken such a comfortable drive. Wahoo! about sums it up.

3. I received my first CEL with 124 miles on the clock. Not impressed. Even less impressed that the CEL disabled the ABS system for the next 100+ miles. I have not had the chance to read out the code yet (my odometer was saying "Er 55"), but I cannot imagine that it was something that involved ABS. That brings up a question - is the '07 CAT or OBDII, and where is the interface port located?

4. Extremely unimpressed with the CEL at 124 miles. Oh, did I mention that already?

5. Instrumentation is nicely laid out. I am not real fond of the red down the console, but I am getting used to it. The radio sounds great compared to my '96 (and the '96 sounded great compared to older vehicles) so good to see that it continues to improve. It had excellent radio reception, giving me my local station at about 200 miles from home with only intermittent loss through the mountain passes. I took my iPod with me, expecting to use it on the way back, but I forgot to bring a mini-to-mini jack in order to utilize it! Haha... figures.

6. Tires are crap (Potenza RE-92). I really appreciate the grip of the GY Assurance TripleTred I had on the '96. Night and day. I have to keep these things on for the remainder of this winter, but there is no way I am keeping them beyond the summer. Regrettably, I know there is no way the 15" rims from the '96 will fit over the brake calipers on the front of the '07. So, no way to reuse those tires for this car. Granted, I still do not know if I will be getting that hulk back anyway, so no sense in sweating it right now.

7. The plastic cladding on the outside.... so much is plastic! I have my doubts about how well it will hold up to time and cold.

8. So far I like the LATCH points - laid out extremely well compared to other vehicles on which I have used them. Installing my son's seat this morning was a snap. Well, 3 snaps, actually. :P

9. Car is very quiet, but I did get some wind noise on the lee side of some strong gusts last night. That vacuum is able to suck the windows away from their seats and allow whistling. Not surprised or annoyed about it, just noticed it.

10. Quite a bit of drivetrain noise compared to the '96. Much of this is probably due to the manual vs. auto transmission. Does not bother me either, but just noted it and takes some adjusting.

11. Clutch brake. Annoying. I think others have noted this same behavior as the downhill "jerkiness" while having the cruise on. I am not certain it is the clutch brake, just making an assumption here. I will have to get used to that as well.

That is all for now. I think as I come to terms with everything a little more I will grow more fond of it.

locke2c · January 2007

That's a pretty substantial overfill. The dipstick probably is meant to be read hot, but either way I'm sure that using over 1 quart more than the specification is not a good thing.

Personaly I would just do 6.0 quarts though, that's close enough to 5.8 and far easier.

~Colin

xwesx · January 2007

Okay, continuation:

12. This car is, ironically, not designed for cold weather. The minimum temperature that the outside temp diode will register is -22F. Not quite accurate this morning at -42F!!!!

13. Windows do not function at all. Ironic as well, considering that my 96 worked fine (albeit a little slower when -40 or -50 F). Apparently someone at Subaru forgot that many of their car sales come from northern climates.... In general, nothing is working on the car at these temps - I feel like I am going to break the doors just trying to get them to close. I just push it closed (like one would do with a normal vehicle) and it bounces right back open. I never realized this car sold so well in Florida that they would use a sub-tropic-only lubricating oil :sick: .

14. What's going on with the radio? Did some genius forget to connect the constant power wire? I turn off the car and the next time I go to start it all the radio controls are reset. Infuriating - definitely will be taking it to a dealer to fix that problem.

Notice there are no added "good" notes here. I still like the seats though.

smittynyc · January 2007

In all fairness to Subaru, I think once you hit -22, the gauge might as well read "Does it really matter past this point?"

Ironically, -22 is exactly the coldest air temperature I've ever experienced (although windchills were in the -60 range). I can't imagine what -40 or -50 would be like. At -22, everything crackled and creaked and groaned like it would break. This was in Chicago in January of 1994. There was a three-day period where the temperature did not get above zero.

I'm sorry you're having some problems with the car. You definitely need to see the dealer and get things sorted out.

paisan · January 2007

In those temps, the RE92s are going to be worthless, personally I'd switch em out for dedicated snow/ice tires as they will really let you down at those temps.

-mike

krzyss · January 2007

I know it is new car but I would check battery.
In my old Passat radio was forgetting settings, clock lost its time when battery was on its last legs (cells?).

Krzys

xwesx · January 2007

I have noticed that. I'm going to tough it out through the remainder of this winter. They grip like a cat compared to my pickup (which I had been driving for the previous week), so it is of little concern to me at this point. I do miss those GY Assurance though, and I doubt those are even "good" compared to some of the tires listed in the "hijacked" thread. :P

xwesx · January 2007

Thanks for the head's up. Honestly, not really any problems with the car, per se (other than radio, but even that worked about an hour ago when I had to run an errand), but certainly some surprises (like the doors/windows being so adverse to cold temps). Oh, and yes, it makes quite a bit of difference between -20 and -40 or even -50. Think of it like 60F vs. 30F being jacket vs. coat weather.

Not that I overly care about having the temperature feature, but if it is there then it might as well work! The combo between the -22F minimum and the fussiness of the doors/windows just makes me think that the manufacturer did not put enough thought into where these cars were likely to be used. After all, the Subaru is Alaska's unofficial car. :P

Oh, I thought of a good thing!

What am I on now.... 15? The heater is superb! I actually had to turn it down from full heat to fan setting 3 today. At -42, I would have never dreamed doing this in the '96... and it would be chilly in there even fully "warmed up." The '07 was toasty warm - did not even use gloves on the wheel!

bat1161 · January 2007

"Oh, I thought of a good thing!

What am I on now.... 15? The heater is superb! I actually had to turn it down from full heat to fan setting 3 today. At -42, I would have never dreamed doing this in the '96... and it would be chilly in there even fully "warmed up." The '07 was toasty warm - did not even use gloves on the wheel! "

I'm glad the heater works that well at those temps! Too cold for me.

Mark

paisan · January 2007

Is this one of the in-mirror temp gauges? If so there are like 2 manufacturers of these units and both only go to -22F It's not a Subaru-only thing.

-mike

xwesx · January 2007

Not sure where the sensor is located, but the readout is on the console, above the radio. There are 4 readouts available: outside temp, "instantaneous" MPG, average MPG based on trip meter (two trip meters, A and

, and elapsed time since the vehicle was last started. Oh, and the clock is displayed to the right of it.

Hmm. Good to know, though that probably means I will not be able to modify it to read out to lower temps. I wonder if it is the sensor itself or if the computer limits the info received to -22. I do not see why, but a possibility nonetheless.

Sigh. Received info from my insurance company and apparently wrote the plate # down wrong on that pickup, as the number I provided did not come back with a valid record. Figures. *shrugs*

kens · January 2007

The sensor on my 05 LGT wagon is located in front of the radiator just to the left of the driver's side fog light. It's a little black plastic piece.

Ken

Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+

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