Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford F-150 SUPERCREW

1…1011131516…25

Comments

  • jakehalliganjakehalligan Member Posts: 4
    parman sorry to reply so late- I live in the Boston area(Quincy) and have driven all kinds of trucks both 4 & 2 wheel drive. Trust me you do not want to drive a 2wd truck in winter conditions any more than you have to. Especially if your children will ever be part of the cargo. Go with a 4x4 you will get your money back if you ever sell it. As far as the limited slip rear differential/while I can't explain exactly how it works, I can tell you that it does. Take it from me- I didn't get it on my'01 lariat screw and it is the only mistake that I feel I have made in the purchase of my truck. It is an inexpensive option and I found myself putting the truck in 4x4 in what appeared to be light snow conditions. There were times when I felt that if I had the ltd.slip I would not have had to use 4x4. Do your homework and good luck, I will answer any other questions you have. Here is what I bought: Bright red S-Crew 4x4 Lariat,4.6L,parchment leather,cab steps,moon roof,sliding rear window,bed extender,heated seats. p.s. quick synopsis of ltd. slip rear end: transfers power from wheel that is slipping to the other giving added traction.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    rtanton,

    altho i can't entirely explain how limited slip works, it is beneficial in that clutch packs in the rearend help deliver power to the wheel that isn't slipping rather than just to the wheel that is spinning. and, yes, ford's limited slip and gm's posi traction are most likely very similar. i've had limited slip axles on a couple vehicles i've owned. limited slip does help in slippery conditions, especially when starting from a complete stop. however, in my experience, in a limited slip vehicle if you gas it too much it'll fishtail quicker than a vehicle without limited slip. so, there is some give and take.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    I have an uncle that works for Ford, and he just told me that the X-Plan is an option, but I forgot to ask what the real dollars and cents of it is. If there is anyone out there who has used the X-Plan, what is the deal? 2% below dealer invoice? 3% above dealer invoice? I'm adding up my options on my future SCrew tonight so I want a number to throw in the calculator!

    Thanks to those folks out there who have answered my questions. More to come, please keep up the great answers. From what I read, the limited slip is definitely going to make the list because a 4X4 makes no sense where I'll be living.

    RT
  • dvaughndvaughn Member Posts: 1
    just ordered a super crew need to know if you had any problems yet,paid invoice less $500 rebate any better deals out there? had to go to five different dealers worn out in new Mexico;
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Member Posts: 6
    If you ordered the class 3 towing pkg., you might want to check your radiator. A lot of people are finding the 1.02" instead of the 1.42" that is suppose to be there. For more info., go to f150online and go to the message board. You won't believe it, trust me.
  • famlydocfamlydoc Member Posts: 7
    I purchased the Class III towing package on my 2001 Screw Lariat with 5.4 I engine. Indeed I have the 1.02 inch radiator instead of the heavier 1.42 inch one row radiator. I told my service manager about it last week and gave him copies of the discussions going on in the f150.online bulletin board about the subject. I expect to hear back this week from him. I am not aware of one owner who has come forward yet to say that they received the heavy duty cooling that is advertised by ford for the class III package. Sounds like class III action lawsuit if we all payed for Heavy Duty Cooling as advertised only to get the same radiator size found in Screws or f150's without class III towing package. Will keep you posted on my experience. Love my Screw but really want to get this radiator issue resolved.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    how can you tell if you got the right radiator? does measuring it actually work. or is there somewhere on the radaitor that says what size it is supposed to be? thanks...
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Member Posts: 6
    e-mail
    check your radiator at the cooling fins. If the cooling fins measure 1" and you paid for the class III tow group, you've got the wrong rad.Do not measure the tank (side) just the cooling fin area. Also, there might be a sticker with a part # on it on the side of the tank. If it reads XL3H A
    you got the wrong one. Refer to f150online.com and go to the message board on the left. You can look in the threads engine or
    supercrew...these are for all f150's from 99-01.I believe V8's only. All of Ford's print and internet info still list the larger rad. as what's incl. in the tow group. Unfortunately that's not what they're installing...
  • mbrimmbrim Member Posts: 7
    I also have the class III towing package. I measured the radiator and it was about 1". There is a sticker on the side that reads IL3H-19710-AA. However, right in front of that radiator is another one the exact same size. And I'm not talking about the oil and transmission cooling radiators. I'd have to remove the black plastic cover (over the radiators) to get a better look.
  • draytm01draytm01 Member Posts: 19
    I am renting a F-150 Screw this weekend to haul some mulch and dirt for spring planting and to tow.

    I want to help a friend out by towing his boat to a new ocean slip. I wanted the F150 because I think they have a notch in the bumper to put a 2" tow ball on the bumper. Does anyone know if this is still the case and if so what is the weight limit for the bumper bal moutn? I heard 5k lbs, but just want to double check. Would I better off renting the reg. bed F150? Thanks!
  • famlydocfamlydoc Member Posts: 7
    In response to mbrim. You will see a Auxiliary tranny cooler, oil cooler and air conditoner cooler
    in addition to your radiator. That part number you quote does not ring a bell.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    Who out there has pruchased an extended warranty from Ford? Anyone get one not from Ford? I'd sleep a bit better know that I had a $0 deductable warranty through 6 years/75,000 miles but I don't know what Ford charges and the sites I've found on the internet want about $950 for something like that.

    Anyone have comments?

    One other thing. I'm getting ready to order a 2001 4X2 SCrew XLT. Can I get 17" rims and tires? The Kelley Blue Book list of options says yes after July of last year, but the dealer I talked with today doesn't think so.

    Thanks gentlemen.

    RT
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    RT,

    go to ford.com and build a truck and see if you can specify 17 inchers...
  • kbelislekbelisle Member Posts: 2
    I have a 01 screw lariat with 5K miles. It went into the shop today for the forth time. It pulls to the left. The dealer has replaced a couple of parts (not sure what they were) and aligned it but it still pulls to the left. It is most noticible in the left lane on the freeway. Just wondering it anyone has had this problem and if so what they did to fix it.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    emale:

    I did just that and it forced me to upgrade to one of the special editions (Lariat, etc.). But, it is listed as an option on the 2WD XLT price sheets (option T55) for $275 retail.

    Who knows for sure... Anyone ever contact the factory and ask them directly?

    Thanks again.

    RT
  • famlydocfamlydoc Member Posts: 7
    Thought I would post these radiator parts numbers for those of you still dealing with this issue.
    XL3Z-8500-DA is the 1.02" one row radiator
    YL3Z-8005-GA is the 1.42" one row radiator
    F75Z-8005-GB is the 2.20" two row radiator
    Most guys on the F150 thread are having luck getting the 1.42" put in.
    I'm still waiting to hear the final word from my service manager. He last told me he is waiting on a tech inquiry and to talk with the regional rep. Will post any results I have.
  • mbrimmbrim Member Posts: 7
    For Famlydoc...I'm having a hard time finding the part number, where is it located on yours?
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Member Posts: 6
    mbrim...
    The radiator part # should be printed on a white tag attached to the side of your radiator.Mine has XL3H AB. This is also the part # for the 1.02" radiator.You don't even need the part #, just measure the cooling fin area. If it's 1" and you paid for the classIII tow group,you can bend over now...
  • grapedoggrapedog Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone found an aftermarket top for their SCREW yet? I am interested in finding out the price range. I am interested in a CAP to cover the back and not a tonneau cover because of the extra room a cap provides.

    Please post phone numbers or websites of makers/retailers that you have found to be useful.

    Also, what products have you SCREW owners used for bedliners. It seems to me that a spray-on bedliner is a better way to go than a plastic insert. But I have a hard time getting over the fact that they require me to {gasp} sand down the factory paint in a brand new $30,000 truck in order for the spray-on liner to stick well.
  • goodwingoodwin Member Posts: 24
    have you checked out these 2 site on the web

    www.glasstite.com
    www.leer.com

    on the leer site click on products then new products, there is a picture of a 2001 supercrew with cap on it.
  • bguebertbguebert Member Posts: 1
    Looking at super crew 4x4 with 5.4. Could any one tell me about gas mileage they get driving around town and on highway. Looking to pay invoice, did anyone get a better
    deal without a ford plan. I have read a lot of good things about truck, besides radiator problems is there any other complaints?
  • sdeleonsdeleon Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a SuperCrew 4X4 with the 5.4 and am getting around 14-15 mpg. On the highway it seems to be in the upper teens. I paid $500 below invoice and I ordered it the way I wanted it. About bedliners, I had a sprayed-in liner on my last truck and, in my opnion, it's the best thing you can do for the truck bed (it's still expensive). For my SuperCrew, I ordered a rubber mat from Cabelas.com - PENDAPAD BED MAT ITEM: XA-51-2677- perfect fit!
  • cadteachercadteacher Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 SCrew 5.4 2WD. I've only filled the tank 5 times (1262 miles). My worst MPG is 12.7, my best is 13.1. It doesn't seem to matter how hard or easy I drive it. My mileage is about 90-95% city-suburb driving (25-45 mph). I'm often told that it will improve with break-in, but I've kept very accurate records with previous trucks and I don't expect more than 1 MPG improvement.

    Tires are a big influence. I have General Grabber AP tires on mine. I have seen a drop of as much as 3 MPG (on an Explorer 4WD) by changing from the original tires to a more aggressive tread (same tire size).
  • curtisloewcurtisloew Member Posts: 6
    I am still shopping and so far the Screw is leading. My only concern is the amount of posters here who have been opting for the 5.4 instead of the smaller V8. I won't be towing anything heavier than a trailer and lawnmower, if that. Most of my miles will be to the job (less than 10 miles round trip) and the once a year vacation to Gulf Shores or other spot within 500 miles or so. Do I need the 5.4 for this kind of use or can I save the $800 for taxes? Thanks for any input.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    I just got a SCrew 5.4 and here is the way I though about it:

    Yes, it does cost more for the initial price.

    The RATED (I haven't had mine long enough to give you a real story on my gas mileage yet) MPG is no more than 2 MPG less than the 4.6.

    I rarely, but occationally have heavy loads in the back of my truck/towing.

    Higher resale with the bigger V8.

    I weighed all these and came up with the choice to get the bigger engine. I would if I were you.

    Well boys, I got my SCrew this past week and I love it. 2001 4x2 SCrew XLT 5.4l, Class III towing package, 3.55 limited slip, powere drivers seat, 6 disc CD, sliding rear window, bed liner and a bed extender for $23,000 on the X-plan. I'm happy. Here is my only concern:

    The damn thing has a cheap dark grey plastic grille. I've been looking at billet aftermarket grilles, or maybe calling the parts department and seeing what a honeycomb would cost.

    Anyone out there using billet products? Reccomendations?

    RT
  • seldomseentooseldomseentoo Member Posts: 13
    hey rtanton.

    I saw on the 150online site that theres a way to buy into the xplan for $40. How do the determine the cost and was your 23k before taxes and reg. I'm looking for a xlt/4x4/5.4/ls/moon/tow/power-heated 60/40 seats/skid/bedxtend/ going e/ stock tires and will replace with a decend set.
  • seldomseentooseldomseentoo Member Posts: 13
    here's a follow up..........how'd you get it for $23k, thats over $3,000 below factory invoice base don the options you have listed, was it mor elike $26K, that would put it around 300 below Fac Inv. Which is more what I've read where it should be....
  • mainescrewmainescrew Member Posts: 1
    seldomseentoo,

    If you take the MSRP times .875 that will put you real close to X-plan price. X-plan usually works out to dealer invoice less $100-300, depending on price of vehicle. Plus, you are eligible for any factory incentives such as rebates and low financing. The price on x-plan is predetermined and set by Ford, dealer can't screw with you.
  • bluecrewbluecrew Member Posts: 2
    I RECENTLY PICKED UP MY WEDGE WOOD BLUE/ARIZONA BEIGE SCREW. DEALER HAD IT IN THE SHADE TO BE LOOKED OVER AND EXPLAIN OPTIONS ON TRUCK. WHEN I GOT HOME I NOTICED SWIRLING MARKS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IN THE SUN LIGHT. (THESE SWIRLS ARE NOTICEABLE ONLY WHEN THE SUN HITS THEM!). HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS? AND WHAT CAN BE DONE TO FIX IT!. PS. THIS TRUCK WAS ORDERED, SO I BELIEVE THE SWIRLS ARE FROM THE FACTORY. THANKS.
  • gunship1gunship1 Member Posts: 3
    Check this out for toppers


    http://www.snugtop.com/p_xtr.htm

  • kmulhauserkmulhauser Member Posts: 3
    I bought my Screw last June and have seen what it can do through most weather and conditions. I have the 5.4l, 4wd, bed extender, tow package, 16" chrome with the Goodyear Wrangler tires cloth interior with the power options on locks and windows.

    I pull a two horse trailer from time to time, and even with two horses in the trailer, this truck has the power to move along without a problem, even in hills.

    I have 13,000 miles on it now and have had no problems with the drive train other than an occasional harsh shift from 1st to 2nd gear when it is cold.

    I live in northern Ohio and was able to see this truck through the winter with no problems.

    Parman, I would recommend the 4wd without a doubt. Even with the cab weight being moved back a bit from the conventional cab, the traction got a little squirly on slush without the 4wd. ( I think the Wrangler tires suck when it comes to wet and slushy pavement, but that's the tires and not the truck. at least they're not Firestone)

    I have taken a couple trips of 600-700 miles in it and begin to forget I'm driving a truck, with the full size back seatand the smooth ride.

    We have three rather large dogs, and the fold down seats are wonderful for them. WARNING. If you are going to put dogs in the back seat and allow them to stick their noses out the partially open window be careful. I suggest opening the window to a point and locking it. My dog stepped on the switch and closed his nose in the power window. The placement of the switch on the top of the armrest makes this possible. (that's also a sound that scares the hell out of you when you are driving down the road)

    Gas milage is about as I expected and as others have mentioned, about 14-17 mpg kind of regardless of where I drive. I have a tonneau cover also, which will add a 1 or 2 mpg over the open bed.

    Now for the BUT.

    This past week I had the first opportunity since the snow and ice, to get out a really get intimate with a wash job. When I washed the bottom of the truck off, I found that the majority of paint on the differential and cover is all but gone and a heavy layer of rust is already forming on these surfaces.
    The chrome rear bumper is rusting around the cut out for the license plate and where the lights are mounted on it, The ends of the bumper are pitted and rusting through the chrome surface. The chrome on the wheel bolt caps is all rough and beginning to have pits in all the inside corners.
    The undercoating on the frame is gone in almost all areas where welds and joints are located and beginning to rust also.

    I am making an appointment for this truck to be checked out by the dealer as soon as I can, because I want this truck to last at least until the end of my 5 year lease.

    I didn't see any other comments about rust or corrosion, and wouldn't have thought I would be experiencing it on a brand new truck myself.
    I hope this information will help some other owners or potential owners with SCrews.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    First, an explanation of the X-Plan:

    The X-Plan is the A-Plan price (on the invoice of every vehicle) plus 4%. Since the A-Plan is 3% below dealer invoice, then you would extrapolate the X-Plan being 1% over dealer invoice.

    Sorry for the mix up on my reported paying price. I checked the contract to make sure I reported the right price this time: $27k even. Truck retailed for just a shade over $30k. $23 is what I paid after my trade-in, and reported to ya'll in error. Sorry boys! I was also able to grab 6.9% and $500 cash back (dealer pre-dated the sale for me to get the special rates). Not a bad deal overall.

    Question for the group:

    Has anyone here had any experience with Billet Grilles? I bought mine with a cheap dark grey platic job that makes the whole front-end look like [non-permissible content removed]. F150world.com has them for $80 delivered and says that it's easy to install. Anyone have the REAL story?

    Also, what is the no-kiddingbest exhaust for an F-150 5.4l if you are mildly interested in a performance boost and a moderate interested in adding a little "throat" to the exhaust note?

    Thanks, and again, sorry.

    RT
  • rowdybrowdyb Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new 2001 Super Crew 4x4 about two weeks ago. Options include 5.4, auto, xlt, and class III towing package. Before purchasing the truck I read a series of messages on here talking about some of the class III equipped trucks not coming with the heavy duty radiator even though it is a part of the class III towing package. I raised this concern with the dealer who assured me that my truck had the proper radiator.

    Can someone tell me exactly how to determine if I have the correct radiator? I recall seeing that the radiator sizes were 1.02 vs. 1.42 inches or something like this. Where do I make this measurement? Is this the thickness of the radiator front to back or something else? Just looking at my radiator I don't think it is almost 1.5 inches thick.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    I have the exact setup as you, and I believe there are 2 separate radiators. I know that the tranny cooler is on the lower-front part of the radiator itself. I'll have to look tomorrow and see what I see from under the front of my truck. My wife has it on a short trip. Argh!

    RT
  • buddywbuddyw Member Posts: 5
    to grape dog and all others i have been looking for a cap since may 00 what i found is leer-dont like the rear window hinge. snug-top the best looking but the closest one for the south is in missouri web www.snugtop.com - and century truck caps what they have now is the ultra series looks good but! sometime in may or june they will offer the royal series it will give more suv look flush windows and the rear window will have two point hinge.web wwwcenturycaps.com the price here in ga. for the century royal is 1395.00 the leer 1182.00 i'll wait on century to get the royal made ..
  • cat36cat36 Member Posts: 2
    It took only 26 days from the day I ordered till the day it arrived. I payed invoice minus the $500.00 rebate and I didn't see the salesman till the day I picked it up, I did every thing over the phone. What I got was a 2 wheel drive, XLT with 5.4, trailer tow and bed extender in black with dark graphite. Also ordered the bed mat for the Harley S/Crew thru the dealer. I have gone thru 2 tanks of gas and got 14.4 MPG on the first and 15.3 on the second , not bad for 100% city driving. Love this Truck !
  • volhatervolhater Member Posts: 3
    I will pick up my new screw tomorrow. I want to know if I got a good deal. I paid $32,650 for a lariat 4x4 with these options off road package, 5.4 e.g.,6 disc ad,cab steps,captain chairs, limited slip axle, two tone, moon roof, trailer towing ,bed inner, and lidding rear window. I also need to know if I should purchase an extended warranty or not. I hope I love the truck it is the first one I have ever owned.
  • lullman1lullman1 Member Posts: 15
    Volhater, You should have asked before buying. You paid about $1,000.00 to much. I bought a King Ranch Edition for $350.00 more than your paying. I priced them both and the KRE was a $1,400.00 upgrade from the fully loaded Lariat you describe.As far as the warranty I was quoted $1,070.00 for 6 yr. 100,000 mile ESP with free oil changes every 3000 miles.
  • bwexler1bwexler1 Member Posts: 6
    rowdyb...Measure your radiator by looking just under the fan shroud towards the driver side. Between the cooling fins, not the side of the tank.I will bet you it's 1.02"It should be 1.42"I. had mine replaced with no hassle.
  • rtantonrtanton Member Posts: 10
    I've done some research on my own here, and from what the Internet sites (www.warrantydirect.com specifically) have told me is that you can get cheaper, more inclusive service through them as opposed to buying a more expensive extended, very limited, warranty from the dealership. These guys will replace items that have gone bad just from wear-and-tear (obviously not tires or brakes).

    I was quoted $950 bumper-to-bumper, no deductible for 6 years 72K miles.

    Anyone have any more experience here?

    RT
  • mbrimmbrim Member Posts: 7
    I've noticed that when I select the "Panel & Floor" option for the climate/vent control AND the temperature control is set to all blue/cold the A/C turns on. This doesn't seem right, I'd prefer just the outside air vented in with that selection. I can hear the A/C compressor turn on and I get pools of water under the truck on this selection. BTW, when I turn it to the A/C or MAX setting the A/C rightly turns on. Am I imagining this or can someone try this in their SC?

    - Mike
  • seldomseentooseldomseentoo Member Posts: 13
    Ford has been know to have the compressor turn on when you set the temp knob to cold...Have an explorer which does the same....
  • richardh45richardh45 Member Posts: 10
    When the ambient temperature is above approximately 40 degrees the A/C engages to dehumidify the air. This should only happen in the defrost or defog settings. The Panel and Floor setting... I'm not sure. There should be a small amount hitting your windshield and Ford may have intended the A/C to be engaged to keep the windshield from fogging.

    I hope that this helps.
  • psktruckerpsktrucker Member Posts: 18
    The Panel/Floor position does engage the a/c as stated in the owners manual. (I know, who reads them....)

    I have a Screw that I got last June. Lariat,4x4,Moonroof,5.4L,towing,bed extender. I have about 23000 miles on it and haved averaged 16.2 mpg. (i have kept track of every fill up since day 1!)

    This truck has been Great! No problems what so ever.
  • lullman1lullman1 Member Posts: 15
    Temperature control knob
    Controls the temperature of the
    airflow inside the vehicle.
    Mode selector control
    Controls the direction of the airflow
    to the inside of the vehicle.
    The air conditioning compressor can operate in all modes except PANEL
    and FLOOR. However, the air conditioning will only function if the
    outside temperature is about 10°C (50°F) or higher.
    Since the air conditioner removes considerable moisture from the air
    during operation, it is normal if clear water drips on the ground under
    the air conditioner drain while the system is working and even after you
    have stopped the vehicle.
    ² MAX A/C-Uses recirculated air to cool the vehicle. MAX A/C is noisier
    than A/C but more economical and will cool the inside of the vehicle
    faster. Airflow will be from the instrument panel registers. This mode
    can also be used to prevent undesirable odors from entering the
    vehicle.
    ² A/C-Uses outside air to cool the vehicle. It is quieter than MAX A/C
    but not as economical. Airflow will be from the instrument panel
    registers.
    ² PANEL -Distributes outside air through the instrument panel registers.
    However, the air will not be cooled below the outside temperature
    because the air conditioning does not operate in this mode.
    ² OFF-Outside air is shut out and the fan will not operate. For short
    periods of time only, use this mode to prevent undesirable odors from
    entering the vehicle.
    ² PANEL and FLOOR-Distributes outside air through the instrument
    panel registers and the floor ducts. Heating and air conditioning
    capabilities are provided in this mode.
  • mbrimmbrim Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the responses. What it comes down to is I was looking for a setting that allows vented air (non-A/C) in with the windows down. It doesn't seem like there's a setting for that so I just put it in the off position. Just seems kind of strange, all my other vehicles had such a setting.
  • psktruckerpsktrucker Member Posts: 18
    The "Panel" setting brings in fresh air with no a/c.
  • lullman1lullman1 Member Posts: 15
    PANEL -Distributes outside air through the instrument panel registers.
    However, the air will not be cooled below the outside temperature
    because the air conditioning does not operate in this mode
  • mbrimmbrim Member Posts: 7
    Sorry to keep dragging this on but I'm a little confused by a post above.

    psktrucker - you stated to use the "panel" setting for fresh air with no a/c. I assume you're talking about the floor/panel setting? If so that does turn on the a/c (that was my original complaint). Do you have just a panel setting? It may be that there are different settings on different gen of screws. I found out that the expeditions have a vent setting in addition to the floor/panel setting that does exactly what I want (no a/c but fresh air).
  • kmulhauserkmulhauser Member Posts: 3
    I too was wondering why the AC compressor came on when I used the Floor/Panel position on the control. Item 662 is a reprint of the operator's manual page. I would suggest that you refer to your manual and see if the control looks like the one pictured in therein.

    I wrote the item #648 a few weeks ago regarding a bumper issue with my Screw. I took it in for the dealer to look at and while there was some discussion of the coverage on the warranty, they agreed to replace it. ( it is exposed to the elements, which is a little clause in the surface finish warranty). I also asked about the sizing of the radiator for the class III tow package, which I purchased. The response was a definite "I don't really know what size it is speced at." I have a core that is 1.02" thick.

    After 2 weeks the bumper is still not in and they tell me that this may take a while because the majority of the bumpers manufactured go directly to the production of new vehicles, and they don't have much call for the after market needs on a current model year. Sounds like AS to me but I can wait.

    They are also ordering a new horn for me. the low tone went bad and now the horn sounds like Herb the Lev Bug when he was in his depression.

    Truck still runs great and all, I just don't want to be constantly having these odd things occurring.
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles