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2013 and earlier-Subaru Forester Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Would like to know what kind of deal I got.. 2013 Subaru legacy x premium MSRP 26,484. Price paid $23961 OTD which includes 7.725% tax and all fees.
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Jan 31, 2013 (9:08 pm)
    Would like to know what kind of deal I got.. 2013 Subaru legacy x premium MSRP 26,484. Price paid $23961 OTD which includes 7.725% tax and all fees. The discount off MSRP was exactly $4235. All I paid for was tax, I told them that I'm not paying for any doc fees or any other fees. So math was simple MSRP $26484-discount of $4235 plus tax 7.725% $1712= a out the door price of $23961. I also had them throw in all weather floor mats which is a $60 value. What are your thoughts? I haggled the most I could haggle, I really played hard ball to get what I got. I'm really curious to see if I got a average deal or just mediocre ? They made it sound like I stole the car, so I'm really curious to hear how I really did.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    If 26,484 was the MSRP before TTL, and you paid $23,961 OTD with that tax, I'd say you stole the bugger! Nicely done!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Were any weapons involved when you stole that car? ;)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Thanks for the further clarification (I should have read that message first!). Invoice on this car is over $24,000, so you were about 2K under invoice. They didn't make any money on the sale of your car, I'll just say that. They must have made it up in monthly incentives from the manufacturer, otherwise there wouldn't have been any point in them selling you that car!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Above average deal then? After all said and done, the salesman said they were at the last day of the month and needed to 4 more new cars to sell. Is 2k below invoice a good score or typical? Thanks so much for the responses!
  • broken_arrowbroken_arrow Member Posts: 5
    Yikes! 2 posts in my inbox on my 1st ever Edmunds.com post. The base price was $27K, then I got to ordering a front-end hood protecting shield, they call it a bra, it's not, bras are what I had on an old Jeep Wrangler, made of leather, and pop on or off, this is molded synthetic and metal composite, and once bonded on it isn't coming off. It's another layer against the pebbles and ice chunks that breed all over my part of the Pacific North-west. Also back-up warning audio indicator (not viewer screen), a Sirius satellite radio install ($550!), window tinting, remote engine starter, and with tax, registration, license, tabs and it ended up at $31,500, and the Sirius radio packet I want is like $14 a month. Just music. I extended 3/36 to bumber 2 bumper 7/100 and added roadside help with that. It depends on what an end user wants out of the vehicle and where in the US they buy, plus what they have in barganing clout/savvy or trade in to off-set full cost of the extras they add or (like me) have removed like GPS as I don't need the HAL 9000 taking over my wonderful ride. "Turn right here Dave, proceed to drive off the cliff!"
    Probably a reference lost on any but Sci-Fi movie gurus.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    It's not a good score at all.

    Rather, it is almost unbelievably fantastic! I'd say you did as well as you could possibly expect to do. The dealership staff weren't joking when they said you were getting a good deal. That said, they wouldn't have sold it if it didn't further their bottom line (assuming they sold those other three units, that is!).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Awesome thank you!!!!! I also got 0% financing. I put $1000 down and my payment is around $365 which I'm ok with because its all going to principle. I was thinking about putting more down (like 5k) but being it only moved the payment down $16 per 1k it didn't make much sense, I'd rather have that money in my bank. Make sense? I hope so :)
  • broken_arrowbroken_arrow Member Posts: 5
    edited February 2013
    I don't think Subaru makes a bad vehicle, the NTSB has rated the various models safest passenger cars since Moses was a Private. My dictate was find a mid-sized safe and utile SUV, it HAD to be a manual and Subaru is one of very few left in the Man-Tran game that sells 5-stick shift MT's , unless U like 6-shift, the new way to mess up your knee by keeping it in constant clutching in & out pumping the car along, too Fred Flintstone for me, and for me in any 4-banger (even Suby's latest powerful HP output hybrids of their boxer engine), that's about one gear-shift too many for me, it is not a Mac-Truck or some sports afterburner speed racer. FYI, I joined the Subaru USA web site as a lowly lurking member (https://www.subaru.com/index.html). There (for members only I guess) I looked at the past 2-decades of Subaru safety, evolution, successes and not so hot widgets that come & go over models, years and driver wants. Big factor Subaru recalls, some models, makes and years do seem to spend more time in the dealership than out on the road. From Subaru's USA URL I downloaded all my model's 14 part manuals (in PDF) on my 2013 Forester, followed a link on that URL to Sirius, wasn't even going to go there until I listened to some killer classic rock non-stop with no ads or chatty hosts now I'm hooked and that ain't chump=change! I learn as much about what my new Forester can do in front of a computer screen as I do week 2 owning, driving and still building it. U-Tube has some excellent videos that were shot at all model auto shows all over the place, and take that then apply it to my on-road only driving. Cruising along at 55mph with your windows fogging-up is not the time to try to figure out what turns on defoggers. I also trace Subaru's fleet by year/model recalls; more time recalled in the shop than out and about, maybe I don't need to be driving a dealership's loner all the time, while others have a pretty solid record of no recalls. My neighbor/friend's '99 Outback has 280K (!!!) on the odo and still climbs the steep/icy passes in the Cascades every few months like it was a V6 SUV or truck, runs a charm and never quit on her or given her any major problems. The Forester came with everything I wanted, like it fit in my garage! Some kit I didn't I had removed or left non-activated. Bluetooth is not for me an imperative, for others it's in the top must-have chatty selling gizmo if your chat is something you can't afford any others eavesdropping on. I understand that need and how important that is linked into the vehicle steering wheel controls that offer hands-free secure safe phone calls is maybe to a stock-broker or a chatty cell-phone user in their cars their must-have item, and whatever I bought had to fit inside my fully enclosed, work-shop & garage, larger/longer Subaru models don't fit (Under 190" is all I had to chose from in total vehicle length), or I can't close the garage door. So I had many factors to consider and that is why prior to buying the customized Forester I am putting together (will have completed 16-18 Feb '13) in an after-sale auto customizing shop linked to my dealership for fancy kit Subaru may not offer in a MT Forester on the lot build. I couldn't find window tinting building the base Forester online and keeping MT, the after-sale shop could tint all of my windows, and in this state mild tinting is legal. Window tint for me is a must-have privacy/rip-off prevention option. As were the code #'s acid etched into all the glass, one visible in normal light the other only under a UV source is passive anti-theft deterrents. It took me a lot of online searching of dealer inventories. 98% of new cars on any lot in America are automatics. That's only 2% left MT's and most of those were 6-shift and only found in a few $15-20K starters/base-models with horrible safety or driving or recall albatrosses around their bumpers!
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    edited February 2013
    Looking for a used subaru since I will be hauling paint supply's and other equipment. Found one with 27k miles on it. Msrp is 20995 Internet price is 19995. I got them down to 18.3. It is pre certified. This is before taxes. Is this a good deal?

    Thanks

    Living in California if that makes a difference
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Buy this one!!! I got them down to $21,000 but I ended up buying new because I thought it was only worth $18,000-$19,000. If your interested in it, id keep haggling them down as close as you can to $18,000, they have had it up for over a month now. Let me know if you get it! http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3590310657.html
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Deal sounds good, they don't discount used ones much at all.
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    edited February 2013
    Also for that used subaru they want to sell me the gold warranty for 1200 dollars and 0ded. I got it because the car is used. Did I get ripped off and could I still cancel it if I wanted to?
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Is that Subaru being sold from a Subaru dealership? If so, is it being sold as a certified pre owned? That's one of the perks from buying a used subaru from a subaru dealership is you get basically a free certied pre owned warranty. If this is your case, I would pass on the warranty they are trying to sell you. If it isn't being sold from a subaru dealership, search your local subaru dealerships for the same car and try to buy one with a certified pre owned warranty.
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    The subaru is being sold at a dealership and it is pre certified. the reason i got it was because they said at 95k miles they will run a 152 point inspection and replace any parts that are starting to show wear and tear. I thought that alone would be a good enough reason. Looks like i shouldn't have gotten it then, can i still cancel the warranty? i only got the car on saturday.

    thanks for your help.
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Oh you already bought it? I thought you were asking our thoughts on if it was a good enough deal to move forward on?
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    edited February 2013
    Sorry my wording was incorrect. Yes i already bought it now i am just trying to figure out if i got a good deal or not. I put quite a bit of research in before i bought the car so i thought i got the car for a decent-good price. The warranty i am not sure however.

    sorry for the confusion.

    - i meant to type "was" not "is" sorry -

    " I got them down to 18.3. It is pre certified. This is before taxes. Is this a good deal? "
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Sounds like a reasonable deal for the mileage, etc. They don't depreciate very quickly after the initial hit! Enjoy it, and maybe toss a canvas cover in the back to protect it from the inevitable paint splashes now and again... :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    That price is ridiculous from a private seller. I paid that for my car X Premium new, and that was with another $1,000 in options! So, factor the inferior transmission (automatic) on this car, which is a $1K option, and they're expecting to sell two-year-old car with $15,000 miles for a thousand less than they reasonably could have paid for it?

    I don't think so. That price is high even if it were CPO. I'd say $19K is right on the money, and they'll probably end up settling for something close to that by the time they actually sell it unless they find that one person who just has to have that particular car, no matter the cost. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    We need to know what year and what options it has? Is it the premium? Also, what was the out the door price with the dealers fees included?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    edited February 2013
    Wait, what are you asking? Are you asking for specifics on my car? Mine is a 2010 X Premium PZEV (w/ AWP and Rugged Package), but I bought it several years ago. I was just using it as a comparison to the car you posted in Sacramento that the seller (private party) listed for $23K! I paid $23,300 OTD, no added fees, for mine (new).

    I was basically just pointing out that they want the moon for that car, as though it weren't two years and 15,000 miles old now.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    edited February 2013
    i made a couple mistakes on my previous posts so to summarize it up in one post this is what i got. If i got a bad-decent deal i will just have to live with it. i love the car so regardless i am fine. I was just curious.

    2010 premium with all weather package - 27k miles on it.
    certified
    msrp 20,995
    internet sale 19,995
    we bought it for 18,300 - before taxes and so on

    i ended up getting the 100,000 warranty on it for 1200 - i was under the assumption at 95k miles when they do the 152 point inspection they will be replacing parts that are covered by warranty if needed. Not sure if i should have gotten the warranty but i think i could always cancel it if i decide soon?

    EDIT-ohh i thought xwesx was talking to me, then i didnt need to repost.-
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    My reply was to amzendner, not you sorry. I agree with you on the used 2011 forester though, their price is high.
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    If your forester came with the certified pre owned warranty, I would not have purchased a extended warranty. If it was not sold as a certified vehicle then it's really up to you if you want to take the chance on something failing/breaking. If it is a certified pre owned vehicle sold by subaru, you get the addition warranty for free. Make sense? I think certified pre owned warranties are 100k? Can anyone confirm this?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    The CPO warranties at 7/100 powertrain. I'm not sure about a 95,000-mile inspection; I didn't get that from my reading of Subaru CPO. They do offer the extended warranty options on CPO vehicles, which are less than the similar warranties for new vehicles (most likely because the powertrain is already covered 7/100).

    That said, the additional warranty amzendner purchased isn't necessarily a waste if it is a gold plus 7/100 with zero deductible, as there is a whole laundry list of benefits in that plan that are not included in the standard CPO warranty.

    http://www.subaru.com/vehicles/certified-pre-owned.html
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Hahah; it worked out. You two were on the same wavelength. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    Yes it was the gold warranty for 1200 with 0 deductable.

    I asked the fiance guy that at 95k miles that they would do a 152 point inspection and i "Thought" he said they would. I will call the dealership tomorrow and verify some of this.

    Another question i have is i bought the car pretty close to 28k miles. According to subaru maintence schedule at 30k miles spark plugs, air filter, brake fluid and a few other things are to be replaced/inspected. When they did the 152 point inspection wouldn't they just replace all of that? or should they have? when i called them today about it they ho-hummed around the answer and said that not every one follows that maintence plan and if every thing is looking good there is no point replacing them.

    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance1.html

    I am thinking of taking my subaru to a mechanic i have been going to for 15 years and having him check everything. I just want to make sure they replaced everything they should have (which i am sure they did) i am overly cautious by nature :D

    thanks for all your guys help.
  • potatoticapotatotica Member Posts: 3
    Looking at buying a basic 2.5x manual or auto. I am having a hard time figuring out what a good price is out the door for both the auto and the manual. What are others paying for the 2.5x auto and manual?

    Thanks!
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    edited February 2013
    For the auto base model, you want to be as close as you can to $20,956 out the door with tax and fees included. My tax is 7.725%, so if your tax is lower just deduct accordingly. I know for a fact this is a good deal and can be had. My number is based on a MSRP OF $23,690 (sticker price). You would actually be stealing the car for that much... Even if you can get it for $21,456 that's still a good deal. If you get it for $21,456 out the door, tell them you will I only do it if they throw in the all weather floor mats :) you should do all of the negotiating on the last day of the month! And try to talk directly with the general manager if possible :)
  • potatoticapotatotica Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. I was thinking a good price for the auto would be $22,000 OTD with all taxes and fees, so I am glad I asked. Did you actually buy a forester for this much, and does it matter what state I am in?
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    I had that offer on the table along with a offer on a premium model. Both offers were accepted and I chose the premium. I think it depends on the sales guy and dealership and what time of the month it is. Play hard ball. Those are the figures to shoot for. Talk to other subaru dealerships in the area, try to send offers directly to the GM or Internet sales manager. Don't tell them what dealerships your shopping because they will call your bluffs. I think shopping on the last day if the month really helps. Go down to the dealership and negotiate, get pre approved for financing, get their hopes up and then leave. Then send your email with your offer letting them know that's your final offer. Don't forget to include the all weather floor mats
  • potatoticapotatotica Member Posts: 3
    Great advice. I have no problem playing hard ball, I just didn't know what my target price should be. If I don't get a good response this week on my price, I will wait until the end of the month and see if things change. And don't worry, I will make sure to get the floor mats. I'll let you know how things go.
  • dasanii19dasanii19 Member Posts: 28
    Yea please post back, I'm curious to see how it goes. I know one dealer I asked for that price told me to take a hike.
  • amzendneramzendner Member Posts: 7
    As you know I just bought a used certified subaru. I just realized they didn't fill up the wind shield wiper with fluid. Really makes me wonder if they forgot to do anything else. I am having the car checked out by another mechanic. If I find out that they didn't do a couple other things on the 152 point inspection does that make the contract I signed invalid? I don't really care that much about the wind shield wiper fluid it's more about if they forgot other major important things. I just want to know what I bought is really what it was sold to me as.
  • broken_arrowbroken_arrow Member Posts: 5
    edited February 2013
    The basic 5-speed MT Forester is a rare breed, most buy an automatic, so if you don't plan on the fancy extras: tinted windows, Sirius radio, backing-up sensors, or a remote-starter (not to even mention a ritzy sun-roof) then you start building way above the MSRP or sticker price. Turned my $27K as-is model into a $31K buy only because I wanted those few creature-comfort, safety & privacy features The 2nd most expensive check I wrote the day I picked my MT Forester up was extending warranties. 3 years of road-side assistance is OK, I went with their 100K/7-year bumper 2 bumper package. Being VA rated disabled, not something I ever planned on, that service is literally a life-save for me. Look at what it doen't have & ask those ?'s about exactly what you are paying for in the base model, then you haggle.
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    edited February 2013
    Short story - with the rugged package, I am paying $27,000 including destination charge, and before taxes.

    Long story - our 2002 Forester S with Premium Package with 111K miles was in an accident involving another driver making an illegal u-turn, both passenger side doors damaged. Insurance giving me $3,200 for repairs, and dealer giving me $2,500 trade-in value as it is. So $5,700 total trade-in value for my car.

    How am I doing?

    --Daniel
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Not bad given it is a dozen years old now.

    If you want get it appraised in the Real World trade-in values thread.
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    Thanks Juice - yeah I think I am doing OK on the trade-in. But is 27K fair for a 2013 Limited?

    --Daniel
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited February 2013
    They gave you way above market value for the trade so I don't even think the answer to that question matters. ;)

    Try TrueCar.com so see what people pay on average, but it varies a lot depending upon your zip code. A bargain in Alaska is not even a good deal here in the DC area.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    A bargain in Alaska is not even a good deal here in the DC area a fleecing anywhere else.

    Fixed that for you, AJ!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thank you! :D
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    edited February 2013
    Wait, wait... it's got a bit more options than I thought.

    Forester X Limited MSRP $26,995 + Auto Dim Mirror/Compass with Homelink $292 + Body side Molding Kit $252 + All Weather Floor Mats $72 + Rear Bumper Cover $92 + Rear Spoiler $386 (this is nuts) + Splash Guard Kit $147. With destination charge of $795, total MSRP is $29,031. I paid almost 27K, average for my zipcode according to truecar.com. After $2,500 trade in + $2,700 insurance check + $1,400 Subaru Bucks, tax, etc. ended up financing the balance of 22k, 63 months, 0%. Quite happy overall.

    In terms of equipment, phenomenally little is changed between this 2013 Forester and my 2002 Forester S with Premium Leather package. The 2013 has extra some safety options, bluetooth, audio controls on steering wheel, HD radio, ipod connectivity, and that's about it. It loses the CD changer (1 disc only), casette player (obsolete even in 2002). Much more room in the rear seat, much worse handling, seems cheaper inside. Drivetrain seems very similar, as it actually is almost the same with only minor changes to the motor. Fortunately visibility remains very good. I have a tire tread gauge, and I measured the tire tread - it's only 8/32"! If this trend of "shaving" the tires continues, soon you will have to buy new tires 3 months after you buy the car!
  • zilchzilch Member Posts: 6
    edited February 2013
    24,326 sticker.
    20,754 sale price
    +499 doc fee
    +124 title/registration fee

    +622 sales tax NC 3%

    OTD: $22,000

    Second deal on table:
    Forester 2.5x Limited, sticker 28.299. Worked them down to 26,000 out the door (NC 3% sales tax included).

    Hope this detail helps anyone get a great deal on 2013 Forester 2.5x with alloy pkg or the Limited. I did not get the Limited because the diff, as you see, was $4,000 for stuff I don't need that I think won't last.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    only minor changes to the motor

    While I would like to see DI and maybe a tad more power, at least it's a timing chain now. The oil filter is also super easy to access, if you change oil yourself. MPG crept up a tad.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Minor changes in the configuration of the stuff under the hood, but the motor itself is significantly different, and all in good ways.

    The only thing I miss about pre-2009 Foresters is the far better handling (and steering feel as part of that). Everything else on the 09-13 generation is heads above.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No coolant flow through the head gasket being among those significant differences.
  • zilchzilch Member Posts: 6
    Wow, the best feature I see new since my 2009 forester is that the new one (2013) has the oil filter right on top of the engine, next to the oil filler cap. I change the oil because I want it done right and want to use synth, and now I can get rid of the ramps and never go underneath again.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Well, I suppose that's true if you want to suck the old oil out the dipstick tube, but it still seems easier to me just to pull the plug (or, better yet, put a Fumoto valve on it the first time you change the oil) and drain it. The Forester sits up high enough that you don't even need ramps if you have the valve.

    I hate the location of the filter on the '09-10 units, with the exhaust pipe wrapped around it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • zilchzilch Member Posts: 6
    edited February 2013
    yeah, a little excited there, about the filter on top. thanks for the tip on the fumoto plug - I assume that is the good one. We just got her the 2.5x alloy pkg almost identical. Even better than being easy, oil changes will be so much cleaner.
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